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Espresso @ New Jack City


Member Since: May 3, 2011
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,262
Total Points: 147
Last Year: 16
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has T.J. Esposito been climbing?










Contributions


All 259 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 62 | Posts 99 | Stars 74 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Rock On Right (5.10d)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: Bah so apparently first time around I went too high before going right, so I missed the meat of this climb. Clip the first bolt and start moving pretty much hard-right. The sequence is very particular and involves a lot of swapping of both hands and feet to stay balanced and avoid barn-dooring while moving around the rounded corner.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : General Dynamics (5.11a)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Jun 18, 2012

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Comments: I've spent a reasonable amount of time on this can definitely say that this is a pretty awesome route. It's rather difficult in that figuring out the start (start of the business, not the scurrying-up-blocks part of the start) is really tricky to figure out. There are at least three variations that work, and so many chalked up holds that there might be more. Figuring out what's most efficient for you is key.

Moving past the roof is pretty strenuous and good technique actually helps to make... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Diamond of San Diego (5.11d)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Jun 13, 2012

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Comments: Ben, it wasn't really my style enough to want to put in the effort... prob not anytime soon. Mark, glad I wasn't the only one. I don't think I could have pulled to the anchors on lead, assuming I would even have made it that far!


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : The Incinerator (5.12a)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Jun 12, 2012

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Comments: Assorted vids for those who want beta; two different approaches to the crux in these. Burly climb, you don't even realize how steep it is until you're standing underneath it about to start or belay.

Full ascent: Full ascent on Vimeo


Crux only: failure on Sickygnar and success on Sickygnar


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : El Camino Real (5.10a)
By: T.J. Esposito When: May 29, 2012

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Comments: Last bolt on P2 still hangerless. Did this after a little icestorm and the belay in the jungle was awesome (and cold), sitting under an ice-covered tree! The crack on P3 is amazing.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Valley of the Moon : Gravity Wall
By: T.J. Esposito When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: There are currently nesting falcons in the middle of the wall up high (April 30 2012).

As for approach, the routes start off the massive ledge about halfway up; you'll want to scramble up to the far right, going around the entire formation that the ledge sits atop and walking back left to the climbs. Some boulder hopping, about 10 min or so with packs on.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Valley of the Moon : Patina Wall : street sweeper (5.11c)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: Guide says 11d, I'm inclined to agree; felt significantly harder than M11 a few lines to the right. Hard start with moves up tiny crimps (crux) to a nice jug and two closely spaced bolts. Eases up a bit and then second crux moving up and right to the obvious hueco in the patina (really hard to reach it statically, more fun to deadpoint or dyno, depending on your height). Thankfully eases up past there.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Photo
By: T.J. Esposito When: Apr 12, 2012

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Comments: About to start the crux in this pic; that orange hold a few feet up is kind of flat but big and solid, go for it if you climb 11s!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Ten Karat Gold (5.10a R)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Mar 1, 2012

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Comments: Anyone with rack recommendations for this?


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Left Wall : Manana (5.10)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Feb 27, 2012

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Comments: No it's been rebolted. Fun route, second pitch is more fun than the first IMO.


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Black Castle (5.11a)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Feb 11, 2012

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Comments: Tears of Envy is now bolted, Black Castle appears to still be chopped.


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Diamond of San Diego (5.11d)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Feb 11, 2012

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Comments: P2 is freakin hard, assuming it includes moving over and left of the roof, then up over the thin face. I followed it and probably would have freaked out had I been on lead. Harder than 11b/c's at Riverside, that's for sure.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Kid Rock : The Landlord (5.10d)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: I was wondering what this was as we descended Walk on the Wild Side; looked like it'd be really fun, I definitely want to hit it up next time I'm in the area. For slab it did look extremely well bolted (albeit with older hangers).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Where Have all the Cowboys ... (5.10d)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: Tips to make this more enjoyable (the climbing was good but logistics a little particular):

  • Place a #2 C4 in the crack at your feet at the start of P2; this will keep you from an unpleasant rope burn on the back of your thigh if you peel off before the second bolt (have your belayer pull it after getting the 2nd bolt to reduce drag.

  • Bring lots of alpine draws and used them where needed, as the route goes hard left then hooks back right past the initial face; you...
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Eagle Peak : Left Wall : The Direct Route (5.11+)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Jan 30, 2012

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Comments: Must-do route (at least of the long left-side multipitch ones), was pretty fun.

My impressions-
P1 is basically the first pitch of Prime Time (or vice versa; same crux). Strong, but good body position makes it easier. Second crux pulling up to the belay. Grovel up the crack or search around for better holds.

P2 is pretty clean, has some of that rough scale in the crack. Crux is mostly technical, pay attention to hand and foot placement and it goes easily; big feet help... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - South Face : Out on a Limb (5.10c)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Jan 9, 2012

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Comments: Took me a good 20 mins to figure out the easiest start beta, keep reading if you want it- if you can deathgrip half-tips crimps as sidepulls you can high-step the skirt (which looks like the most obvious solution); otherwise, pinch/hug the skirt (there are some ridges you can undercling on) and build your left leg up on the ramp underneath the bulge. Then the fun part, right heel-hook next to the polished notch in the skirt and that will keep you on the rock (in addition to pulling ri... more >>


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Stumbling Blocks : Mr. Big (5.10d)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: The anchors on this/NDS have hand-tightened nuts. I would HIGHLY recommend bringing a tool up to tighthen them down; they were super-loose on 11/26/11 and I tightened them as much as I could by hand. Couple of tools of the other sort were TRing off both sets of anchors (IE, 4 shuts total); the other set might be loose too.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Mt. Gorgeous : Family Jewel (5.10c)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Nov 29, 2011

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Comments: Ditto on the loose bolt as of 11/26/11


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Malibu Creek State Park : Mt. Gorgeous : Luscious (5.11)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Nov 28, 2011

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Comments: Reasonable amount of grit in the pockets if there hasn't been recent traffic. Falls above the second bolt or so are pretty much clean. Don't forget to clip to the belay side of the rope when cleaning!


Location: CA : San Diego County : Valley of the Moon : Patina Wall : Full Auto (5.10d)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Anyone know why this is officially rated 10a here when it's 10d in the guidebook?


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Espresso (5.10c)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Nov 21, 2011

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Comments: Fun climb, nice hand jam rest after the crux. Oh yeah, and stemming is off (x2) despite what all the videos on YouTube show!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face : Sunshine Face - Right Side : Sundance (5.10b)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Oct 17, 2011

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Comments: If you want to work your offwidth technique (which I do) and don't care for liebacks (which I don't), you can jam up the last section of P1.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Oct 11, 2011

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Comments: As of Oct 9 there is a #1 C4 (mine) stuck in the crack above the start of P3. If you can get it out, kudos to you; I'm pretty good at freeing stuck gear and I managed to break my nut tool and scrape my knuckles trying to free it!


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Right Wall : No Place To Hide (5.10c)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Oct 2, 2011

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Comments: Suggested cams for P1- C4's in .5, .4, and/or 3. Guide says P2 is a 10a, which must be wrong since it definitely felt like more of a cruise than P1. Third pitch is devious, sustained from the very start to the very end. Thin clipping stances, thin holds, and baking on a hot day. Slab skills will help on some of it.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Double Trouble (5.10c)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Sep 12, 2011

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Comments: A small grey C4 (0.4) perfectly fits a crack after the start. I found the roof to be easier and way more fun than the start, it's easier to sequence it as well.


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