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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Quantum Leap (5.11b)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Mar 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is rad! Prob between 11b and c depending on your height, wingspan, and strengths. Several variations of holds and sequences to make the first crux, two completely different styles of doing the second crux that follows (I could only do one, my partner the other). Definitely a fun route to spend some time on.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Fantasy Island : The Minute Men Arete (5.11d)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Mar 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I pulled off a couple of big chunks and lots of scree from the right side of the middle of the climb and 'X'ed a bunch of big rock chunks that are still there. They look/feel pretty rotten and will eventually pull off if yarded or stood on. Wouldn't be a huge deal except the belayers for this and Fantasia don't really have anywhere to go if a hundred pounds of rock come crashing down. BETA WARNING: you don't need to touch the 'X'ed sections to do this climb in the most efficient fashion.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Black Rider (5.11b)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you find the right mantle sequence for your height, the mantle ends up feeling physically easier than the moves leading up to it.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera
By: T.J. Esposito When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: For anyone planning on War Paint (5P 12a), a key hold broke off the start of the 3rd pitch (12a crux). It's likely now hard twelve at least and impossible to french free it (the first bolt is about 12 feet up or so.) Those inclined can skip the start by going up the 5.easy gully to the right and clipping the first bolt and swinging back in to do the super fun original crux.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Eagle Peak : Left Wall : Southwest Face (5.11b)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Jan 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun route with a bunch of nice cracks from fingers to fists! P4 and 5 can be linked with a 60m with maybe 10-15 feet to spare for a slightly more challenging ending. We used about 13 draws; this climb is nicely bolted.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : New Diversions : New Diversions (5.10a)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Nov 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a 2b rap anchor above the wide section up top, instead of the slings/#4 anchor described elsewhere.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Oct 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are tall and have a long reach, this fun climb feels significantly easier (10b I'd say, at 6'1" with a +5 ape index). There are a ton of spinners. The final ramp to the summit felt a bit harder than 5.8 in my opinion. Also, make sure to not knock any rocks when heading down the gully if you rap the water streak, as they bounce down and then go sailing over the edge. Wouldn't be pleasant for people on Power Failure or rapping.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Chingadera (5.11a)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tried for an OS without any of the above beta and did the same thing as Nelson... went up and right and was level with the anchors and pretty much had to intentionally fall (a long one but relatively clean). Still ended up making the anchors from the right though; the last 6 inches of reaching for them was possibly the most tenuous move I've ever made, and the tip of my left middle finger is still numb from survival crimping on those tiny edges past the last bolt. Looked at going up ... more >>
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Trapeze (5.11 PG13)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Aug 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We TR'ed this (def want to bring some static line to extend the anchor 15' or so over the lip.
Outrageous climb (although I think I'd be scared as anything trying to lead it; some of the positions in the dihedral were a bit desperate; you'd need small stuff for that and protecting the roof if you want to keep the good hands open). Fun moves to get up into the dihedral past the roof. Reminds me of wayyy harder version of Rectum Roof.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Buckwheat (5.11c)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Aug 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hold pulled off today, the first of the three little jugs on the roof, but it was kind of facing out and I don't think anyone would find it to be a critical piece. I wouldn't go jumping up and down the the remaining ones though, they are needed and will probably also peel off some year.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Rectum Roof (5.10b/c)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: gear: three draws, then C4's: #1+QD at traverse, .4, .5, 1, 2. Maybe there was a .75 in there too?
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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Time Wave Zero (5.12a)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Jul 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: An awesome climb!! Some of the belays suck a bit, definitely recommend linking pitches; we climbed with a 70m and simul-rapped. Great day of a ton of climbing followed by a ton of rapping, probably best to do right before a rest day! Try to get the 10d ones on lead, they were super fun (I was seconding those). The crux pitch is burly, has two distinct crux sections but apparently I missed a hold on the first of them. You will have earned your caguama of Carta Blanca and 1L margarita... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Consolation (5.9)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Jul 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We finished this by doing these two pitches, highly recommended:
1: from the dead tree belay on Long Climb (end of The Consolation) going across the PG13 slab left and up as per Long, then continuing to trend up and left not quite hitting Whodunit... just follow all the cool cracks. Full 60m pitch (prob had 5 feet of rope left). You'll belay in an uncomfortable little chimney/cave with the anchor consisting of nuts or the smallest C3s. The last 15 feet are a cool steep flared crack with just... more >>
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Rock On Right (5.10d)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Jun 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bah so apparently first time around I went too high before going right, so I missed the meat of this climb. Clip the first bolt and start moving pretty much hard-right. The sequence is very particular and involves a lot of swapping of both hands and feet to stay balanced and avoid barn-dooring while moving around the rounded corner.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : General Dynamics (5.11a)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Jun 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've spent a reasonable amount of time on this can definitely say that this is a pretty awesome route. It's rather difficult in that figuring out the start (start of the business, not the scurrying-up-blocks part of the start) is really tricky to figure out. There are at least three variations that work, and so many chalked up holds that there might be more. Figuring out what's most efficient for you is key.
Moving past the roof is pretty strenuous and good technique actually helps to make... more >>
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Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Diamond of San Diego (5.11d)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Jun 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ben, it wasn't really my style enough to want to put in the effort... prob not anytime soon. Mark, glad I wasn't the only one. I don't think I could have pulled to the anchors on lead, assuming I would even have made it that far!
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Central Pinnacles : Incinerator Wall : The Incinerator (5.12a)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Jun 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Assorted vids for those who want beta; two different approaches to the crux in these. Burly climb, you don't even realize how steep it is until you're standing underneath it about to start or belay.
Full ascent: Full ascent on Vimeo
Crux only: failure on Sickygnar and success on Sickygnar
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : El Camino Real (5.10a)
By: T.J. Esposito When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Last bolt on P2 still hangerless. Did this after a little icestorm and the belay in the jungle was awesome (and cold), sitting under an ice-covered tree! The crack on P3 is amazing.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Valley of the Moon : Gravity Wall
By: T.J. Esposito When: Apr 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are currently nesting falcons in the middle of the wall up high (April 30 2012).
As for approach, the routes start off the massive ledge about halfway up; you'll want to scramble up to the far right, going around the entire formation that the ledge sits atop and walking back left to the climbs. Some boulder hopping, about 10 min or so with packs on.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Valley of the Moon : Patina Wall : street sweeper (5.11c)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Apr 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guide says 11d, I'm inclined to agree; felt significantly harder than M11 a few lines to the right. Hard start with moves up tiny crimps (crux) to a nice jug and two closely spaced bolts. Eases up a bit and then second crux moving up and right to the obvious hueco in the patina (really hard to reach it statically, more fun to deadpoint or dyno, depending on your height). Thankfully eases up past there.
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Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Photo
By: T.J. Esposito When: Apr 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: About to start the crux in this pic; that orange hold a few feet up is kind of flat but big and solid, go for it if you climb 11s!
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Ten Karat Gold (5.10a R)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Mar 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone with rack recommendations for this?
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Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Left Wall : Manana (5.10)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Feb 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: No it's been rebolted. Fun route, second pitch is more fun than the first IMO.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Black Castle (5.11a)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Feb 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tears of Envy is now bolted, Black Castle appears to still be chopped.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Diamond of San Diego (5.11d)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Feb 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: P2 is freakin hard, assuming it includes moving over and left of the roof, then up over the thin face. I followed it and probably would have freaked out had I been on lead. Harder than 11b/c's at Riverside, that's for sure.
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