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Espresso @ New Jack City


Member Since: May 3, 2011
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,259
Total Points: 147
Last Year: 16
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has T.J. Esposito been climbing?










Contributions


All 259 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 62 | Posts 99 | Stars 74 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Europe : Spain : Aragon : Rodellar : ... : Pince Sans Rire (5.12c)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Sep 16, 2014

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Comments: This climb is phenomenal. No moves are terribly cruxy, the real difficulty comes from the ridiculous pump. However, the cruxes do come a bit past the bolts, which are around 8 ft apart or so for most of the route. Adds some mental stimulation to the fun!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Wall of Denial : Save The Best For Last (5.11)
By: T.J. Esposito When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Got on this on Memorial Day, super fun route! Some holds are a little dusty.

Route is still mostly climbable and very fun! Missing a bolt that could put you into groundfall range from 30 feet up or so, with some cruxiness before it. Bring your lead head for this and a few alpines to lower the clip down for other leaders with you who might want a more reasonable clipping stance.

There's a lower-off biner before the ledge up top to lower off of, might be worth being familiar with one-bolt ... more >>


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Vietnam : Bikini Girls with Machine G... (5.11a/b)
By: T.J. Esposito When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: First bolt is missing a hanger. Can either stick clip it (big branch at the base if you don't have one) or just skip it, the moves to the second bolt are pretty cruiser.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Venom (5.11c)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Short people rejoice! If you're tall and lanky, the crux on this feels like a 12a/b.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Cornercopia (5.11b)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: ~16 bolts to do as one pitch, two possible first pitch starts. Right one is 10a/b and pretty crumbly. Crux is tricky to figure out but you can camp out below it and figure out what to do. Higher up it rewards flexibility with fun stemming and a sweet, super-exposed, no-hands rest.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Obverse from the Gap (5.11c)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: Not sure why the description says TR, maybe it was retrobolted? Anyway, it's 5 or 6 bolts plus a #1 C4 IIRC. The cam protects relatively easy terrain so if your mental game is there you might not need it.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : The Fin : Maynard G. Krebs (5.12b)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Mar 9, 2014

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Comments: Short but super fun, recommend it. With a good belayer doesn't really matter if you start from the ledge or the ground unless you think you might blow the third clip and get rubbed by the rope a bit on the way down.


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : Black Castle (5.11a)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: Rebolted, thanks guys!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Iceberg (5.12a)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: I think everyone has looked at this route from above expecting it to be impossible; never knew it was this "easy". The slab isn't even the crux; the thin heady mantle is (never knew the slab didn't go to the ground either!)


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Center/Headwall : The Swiftness (5.10a)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Feb 4, 2014

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Comments: Excellent 5 star splitter, one of the most enjoyable moderate cracks I've done in San Diego. Ranges from fingers to hands/wide hands.

Rack for us was 0.5, 0.75, 2, 1, 0.4, 0.3, 0.4/0.5, plus 3 or 4 draws.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: The bolts on P5 are great, they give you something to clip your helmet to when you squeeze into the crack and need to get your head in!

I did P5 without clipping the bolts and used 1x #6, #5 and 2x #3, #1 and I think a #4 or a #2, don't recall which but 7 pieces in 100 or so feet made that pitch very invigorating! If you have a second #5 and/or #6 bring 'em if you want additional pro.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : On the Road (5.10c)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Fun and a bit heady! Not quite PG13, definitely want small gear. 000 didn't get used, nor did ballnuts; an offset brassy and the rest of the C3's did get used. Exited at the roof up into the finger crack.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Quantum Leap (5.11b)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Mar 23, 2013

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Comments: This route is rad! Prob between 11b and c depending on your height, wingspan, and strengths. Several variations of holds and sequences to make the first crux, two completely different styles of doing the second crux that follows (I could only do one, my partner the other). Definitely a fun route to spend some time on.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Fantasy Island : The Minute Men Arete (5.11d)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: I pulled off a couple of big chunks and lots of scree from the right side of the middle of the climb and 'X'ed a bunch of big rock chunks that are still there. They look/feel pretty rotten and will eventually pull off if yarded or stood on. Wouldn't be a huge deal except the belayers for this and Fantasia don't really have anywhere to go if a hundred pounds of rock come crashing down. BETA WARNING: you don't need to touch the 'X'ed sections to do this climb in the most efficient fashion.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Black Rider (5.11b)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: If you find the right mantle sequence for your height, the mantle ends up feeling physically easier than the moves leading up to it.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera
By: T.J. Esposito When: Feb 18, 2013

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Comments: For anyone planning on War Paint (5P 12a), a key hold broke off the start of the 3rd pitch (12a crux). It's likely now hard twelve at least and impossible to french free it (the first bolt is about 12 feet up or so.) Those inclined can skip the start by going up the 5.easy gully to the right and clipping the first bolt and swinging back in to do the super fun original crux.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Eagle Peak : Left Wall : Southwest Face (5.11b)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Really fun route with a bunch of nice cracks from fingers to fists! P4 and 5 can be linked with a 60m with maybe 10-15 feet to spare for a slightly more challenging ending. We used about 13 draws; this climb is nicely bolted.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : New Diversions : New Diversions (5.10a)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: There's a 2b rap anchor above the wide section up top, instead of the slings/#4 anchor described elsewhere.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10+)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Oct 28, 2012

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Comments: If you are tall and have a long reach, this fun climb feels significantly easier (10b I'd say, at 6'1" with a +5 ape index). There are a ton of spinners. The final ramp to the summit felt a bit harder than 5.8 in my opinion. Also, make sure to not knock any rocks when heading down the gully if you rap the water streak, as they bounce down and then go sailing over the edge. Wouldn't be pleasant for people on Power Failure or rapping.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Chingadera (5.11a)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Sep 24, 2012

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Comments: Tried for an OS without any of the above beta and did the same thing as Nelson... went up and right and was level with the anchors and pretty much had to intentionally fall (a long one but relatively clean). Still ended up making the anchors from the right though; the last 6 inches of reaching for them was possibly the most tenuous move I've ever made, and the tip of my left middle finger is still numb from survival crimping on those tiny edges past the last bolt. Looked at going up ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Trapeze (5.11 PG13)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: We TR'ed this (def want to bring some static line to extend the anchor 15' or so over the lip.

Outrageous climb (although I think I'd be scared as anything trying to lead it; some of the positions in the dihedral were a bit desperate; you'd need small stuff for that and protecting the roof if you want to keep the good hands open). Fun moves to get up into the dihedral past the roof. Reminds me of wayyy harder version of Rectum Roof.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Buckwheat (5.11c)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Aug 12, 2012

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Comments: Hold pulled off today, the first of the three little jugs on the roof, but it was kind of facing out and I don't think anyone would find it to be a critical piece. I wouldn't go jumping up and down the the remaining ones though, they are needed and will probably also peel off some year.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Rectum Roof (5.10b/c)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Aug 6, 2012

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Comments: gear: three draws, then C4's: #1+QD at traverse, .4, .5, 1, 2. Maybe there was a .75 in there too?


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Time Wave Zero (5.12a)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Jul 31, 2012

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Comments: An awesome climb!! Some of the belays suck a bit, definitely recommend linking pitches; we climbed with a 70m and simul-rapped. Great day of a ton of climbing followed by a ton of rapping, probably best to do right before a rest day! Try to get the 10d ones on lead, they were super fun (I was seconding those). The crux pitch is burly, has two distinct crux sections but apparently I missed a hold on the first of them. You will have earned your caguama of Carta Blanca and 1L margarita... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Consolation (5.9)
By: T.J. Esposito When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: We finished this by doing these two pitches, highly recommended:

1: from the dead tree belay on Long Climb (end of The Consolation) going across the PG13 slab left and up as per Long, then continuing to trend up and left not quite hitting Whodunit... just follow all the cool cracks. Full 60m pitch (prob had 5 feet of rope left). You'll belay in an uncomfortable little chimney/cave with the anchor consisting of nuts or the smallest C3s. The last 15 feet are a cool steep flared crack with just... more >>


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