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Member Since: Nov 3, 2010
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 52 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvments | Comments 11 | Posts 5 | Stars 17 | Ratings 14
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Fun Factory

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b (28)

Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 45'

CA : Inland Empire : ... : The Fun Factory

Feb 6, 2012

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Dave's crack. 5.7 direct face start, 5.6 the ramp to the right. Bring the second up with a top belay anchoring with larger(#2-4 C4) gear at the back of the crack.

Dave's crack. 5.7 direct face start, 5.6 the ramp to the right. Bring the second up with a top belay anchoring with larger(#2-4 C4) gear at the back of the crack.

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Dave's Crack (5.6)

Jul 19, 2012

Picture of the route.

Picture of the route.

CA : San Diego County : ... : The Blocks (5.4)

Feb 24, 2012

Clean picture of the climb.

Clean picture of the climb.

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Fun Factory (5.7)

Feb 6, 2012

bolt locations

bolt locations

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Fun Factory (5.7)

Feb 6, 2012

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Slab City : Slab City (Left) : Feetal Rearrangement (5.8)
By: tinyonion When: Nov 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: first bolt is an old, rusted out, button head that's been bent and pulled out about a 1/4" or so... could probably stand to be replaced.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : The Fun Factory : Industrial Bliss (5.10a)
By: tinyonion When: Jan 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: As of 1/11/13 there is a spinner at the anchors. Don't know if it needs to just be tightened or if it needs a replacement.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Ana Mountains : Ortega Falls : Fingers (5.9)
By: tinyonion When: Jun 21, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Fun lead. Lots of gear placements. Eats up small cams, a few larger placements after the runout section between the 5.9 finger crack and the 5.7 upper section. Upper crack takes med to small cams. Three bolt anchor at the top.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : The Fun Factory : Fun Factory (5.7)
By: tinyonion When: Feb 21, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I went lower with my feet in the seam near the bottom of the beta picture and my hands near the bolt line. It's a pretty solid way to do it but not as secure as going up with the underclings I would imagine. There is also a glued in bridge between the third and fourth bolt that should probably not be stepped on.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Agony Arch Area : Hump or Dump (5.8+ PG13)
By: tinyonion When: Jan 23, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, does the top crux go at 8+ or is that just the bottom? Edit: the new guidebook calls this climb a 10a... what's the fair grade?


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Agony Arch Area : Hump or Dump (5.8+ PG13)
By: tinyonion When: Jan 23, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Out of curiosity, where is it pg13 for the pro? Does the hand crack not take good gear?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Houser Buttress Area : ... : Loose Lady (5.10a)
By: tinyonion When: Dec 4, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Benjamin,

It's trad if it was done in the traditional ethic; bolts from the ground up on lead. A rap bolted but sparse bolting would still be sport. Even if there was a potential for groundfall because the bolter didn't put in enough bolts.

That said, I have no idea if the original was rap bolted or not but it's a trad crag so it's likely that it was done on lead. there is an 11 around the corner that was done on lead. Anyone know how this one was bolted?


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Shantytown Swing (5.6)
By: tinyonion When: Oct 2, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: I agree that the direct start is very fun. I plugged a #3 C4 in for fun but you really don't need it and I doubt that it would stop you from decking. The moves to gain the ledge are not more than 5.6+ maybe 5.7 but I doubt it. Good fun though and a good route for people getting used to outside lead. Though the 5.3 around the corner next to wildrose is probably a better intro if it's a first lead.


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : Photo
By: tinyonion When: Jul 9, 2011

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Comments: Very legit tacos here. Get the carne and mix the two types of salsa!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall : Child's Play (5.10c R)
By: tinyonion When: Jul 8, 2011

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Comments: Condition Report: When I was there a month ago the bolts at the top were so loose that you could twist both off with just your fingers. I would advise against setting up an anchor or lowering off these.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall : Congratulations (5.10d R)
By: tinyonion When: Jul 8, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Condition Report: When I was there a month ago the bolts at the top were so loose that you could twist both off with just your fingers. I would advise against setting up an anchor or lowering off these.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
LOST: beanie at the riverside quarryLost and FoundtinyonionApr 1, 2014
re: Free ascent of the nose videoGeneral ClimbingtinyonionAug 23, 2012
re: Adding routes to areas on MtnPrjct using a Guidebook.General ClimbingtinyonionMar 28, 2012
re: Good climbing for a sport climberSouthern CaliforniatinyonionJan 18, 2012
re: Williamson Rock VolunteersSouthern CaliforniatinyonionOct 22, 2011

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Fingertrip 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : West Face - Right Side

The Energy Blues 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Schoolhouse Rock

The Trough 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : West Face - Left Side

Nice Cleavage 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Parking Lot Rock

Fun Factory 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Inland Empire : ... : The Fun Factory

Gold Standard 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Gold Wall

Wildrose 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Motherlode Rock - East Face

Interplanet Janet 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Schoolhouse Rock

Blasting Cap 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Motherlode Rock - East Face

I'm Just a Bill 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Schoolhouse Rock

Shantytown Swing 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Motherlode Rock - East Face

Dollars and Sense 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Schoolhouse Rock

Schoolhouse Rock 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Schoolhouse Rock

Psychedelic Sluice 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Motherlode Rock - East Face

Taxman Max 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Schoolhouse Rock

My Hero Zero 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Schoolhouse Rock

The Check's in the Mail 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Schoolhouse Rock

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Schoolhouse Rock

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Schoolhouse Rock

The Check's in the Mail

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Schoolhouse Rock

Dollars and Sense

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Schoolhouse Rock

Fingertrip

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : West Face - Right Side

Wildrose

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Motherlode Rock - East Face

The Energy Blues

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : Inland Empire : ... : Schoolhouse Rock

Psychedelic Sluice

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Motherlode Rock - East Face

Shantytown Swing

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Motherlode Rock - East Face

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