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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : The Fun Factory : Industrial Bliss (5.10a)
By: tinyonion When: Jan 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 1/11/13 there is a spinner at the anchors. Don't know if it needs to just be tightened or if it needs a replacement.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Orange County : Ortega Falls : Fingers (5.9)
By: tinyonion When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun lead. Lots of gear placements. Eats up small cams, a few larger placements after the runout section between the 5.9 finger crack and the 5.7 upper section. Upper crack takes med to small cams. Three bolt anchor at the top.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : The Fun Factory : Fun Factory (5.7)
By: tinyonion When: Feb 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went lower with my feet in the seam near the bottom of the beta picture and my hands near the bolt line. It's a pretty solid way to do it but not as secure as going up with the underclings I would imagine. There is also a glued in bridge between the third and fourth bolt that should probably not be stepped on.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Agony Arch Area : Hump or Dump (5.8+ PG13)
By: tinyonion When: Jan 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, does the top crux go at 8+ or is that just the bottom? Edit: the new guidebook calls this climb a 10a... what's the fair grade?
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Agony Arch Area : Hump or Dump (5.8+ PG13)
By: tinyonion When: Jan 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Out of curiosity, where is it pg13 for the pro? Does the hand crack not take good gear?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Houser Buttress Area : ... : Loose Lady (5.10a)
By: tinyonion When: Dec 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Benjamin,
It's trad if it was done in the traditional ethic; bolts from the ground up on lead. A rap bolted but sparse bolting would still be sport. Even if there was a potential for groundfall because the bolter didn't put in enough bolts.
That said, I have no idea if the original was rap bolted or not but it's a trad crag so it's likely that it was done on lead. there is an 11 around the corner that was done on lead. Anyone know how this one was bolted?
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Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Central Pinnacles : Motherlode Rock : ... : Shantytown Swing (5.6)
By: tinyonion When: Oct 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that the direct start is very fun. I plugged a #3 C4 in for fun but you really don't need it and I doubt that it would stop you from decking. The moves to gain the ledge are not more than 5.6+ maybe 5.7 but I doubt it. Good fun though and a good route for people getting used to outside lead. Though the 5.3 around the corner next to wildrose is probably a better intro if it's a first lead.
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Riverside Quarry : Photo
By: tinyonion When: Jul 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very legit tacos here. Get the carne and mix the two types of salsa!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall : Child's Play (5.10c R)
By: tinyonion When: Jul 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Condition Report: When I was there a month ago the bolts at the top were so loose that you could twist both off with just your fingers. I would advise against setting up an anchor or lowering off these.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall : Congratulations (5.10d R)
By: tinyonion When: Jul 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Condition Report: When I was there a month ago the bolts at the top were so loose that you could twist both off with just your fingers. I would advise against setting up an anchor or lowering off these.
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