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Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: timoteo When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: saw lots of wasp-like bees in the pockets in mid-september of this year, but none were aggressive. Just go there!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress
By: timoteo When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Allen- I think if you read the entire description for both "Dynamite" and "Maternal Damnation" you will be able to locate each of these routes. The old quartz quarry, and the creamy-colored, roofy quartz area left of it, are really rather obvious landmarks on this small cliff. Good luck and safe climbing to you- tim
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Stuck In Time (5.11)
By: timoteo When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was hoping you would shed some historical light on this, Bernard- thanks. I will indeed return the bit to the Snive, and I'll have to ask him if he was planning on placing a 5" bolt? I know MB had a reputation for chossy rock for a LONG time, but come on.... Anyway- have fun out there.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Stuck In Time (5.11)
By: timoteo When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Took a vise-grips and crow-bar to the drill-bit that was sticking out 2" from an old anchor bolt-hole at the top of P1 today, and it reluctantly came out. It was a 3/8" Hilti bit, buried 4 and 3/4" deep! No wonder that hazardous eyesore was still there. Tried to pry out the other old anchor bolt/nut, but no go so pounded it in flush (minus the nut). There is still one old rusty bolt with hanger in the vicinity, could not turn the bolt head at all so left it there. If anyone with some epoxy wants... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall
By: timoteo When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route if you're up to it, but I recommend that you be climbing at least solid 11,if not 12, with a lot of previous successful run-outs on 5.10 under your belt before attempting this one. Tiny slings and other creative gear placements are also helpful. I wonder if the bolts on it are even safe anymore?? Would be a trade route with up-dated, and added, bolts, but of course this is up to the 1st ascensionists and local climbing community. Anyway- very bold route in it's day, just happened... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Dynamite (5.10a/b R)
By: timoteo When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess you can debate what is "hard" or "easy", depending on your strengths/weaknesses, but what you will need to finish this route is very steady nerves. By no means a "Bachar-Yerian", but injurious fall potential exists here!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Just in Time (5.11b/c)
By: timoteo When: Aug 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Funny, I just noticed this route today, there was an Italian family on it- Dad (broken ankle 2 months ago) led it, and 16 year-old daughter hiked it on toprope. He said 11c. Thanks for posting this!
Bernard-I like the name Disneyland! Good luck with the upper pitches. And your latest new pitch on Devils Backbone sounds good- will try it when I become younger, stronger, and more talented. We did the 1st 3 of Brown Palace today, the 2nd pitch is excellent, 3rd spit me off. This is becoming quite ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: timoteo When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Have to agree, the old bolt hole now serves as a manufactured hold, as evidenced by the chalk in and around it. I used it, and found it helpful in moving up a bit. I agree that it should be filled in!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : The Brown Palace (5.11a)
By: timoteo When: Aug 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This sounds great, Bernard- I saw those 1st couple new bolts the other day and was wondering...? Keep the new routes coming! -tim
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall
By: timoteo When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got to thinking that I'm not at all sure when we did this climb- might have been earlier yet. At any rate, I'm sure a local can write this route up way better than I can, I remember it being somewhat L of center on the wall (or near Rock Warrior??), with a spot of 5.11 on the 1st pitch, and then 3, or 4, or 5? more pitches of maybe solid 5.9, on the usual great rock, but only 1 bolt 75' out from each belay. There was no chalk on this route, and I felt fortunate to find these single bolts out i... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : There's Something About Mar... (5.12a)
By: timoteo When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: OK, Bernard- looking forward to more pitches on your other route. As far as posting descriptions of older routes that might be in some older guide books, just to help users of this forum, is it legally/ethically OK for someone else to borrow info from them and post it here?
I called Jim Disney and told him of my find, and he told me he climbed that central crack system in about 1961, using army-surplus pitons he got from either Holubar or Gerry. He said it took quite a bit of work and time, le... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall
By: timoteo When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi all- I'm not seeing, in the roster of routes, a route called something like "7 Samaurai", which I remember doing (Boy, do I remember that one) a long time ago, in the late 80's or maybe early 90's? We were trying to climb something else nearby, and ended up on a route with 2-bolt belays and exactly 1 protection bolt 1/2 way between them, for maybe 5 pitches or so. We asked later at a local climbing shop what the heck that was (not in our guidebook) and they said we'd just done maybe the 2nd a... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : There's Something About Mar... (5.12a)
By: timoteo When: Jul 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congrats on the new route! Bernard- are you going to post/name your other new 1-pitch route, or wait untill adding more pitches? Also, maybe you should add "Dynamite" to this site's roster of routes, the fun one between "Maternal Damnation" and "Deceiver", if I'm not mistaken on names.
Also: found 3 old pitons (from Disney's early ascent?) buried in dirt/pine needles at the base; another guy from Waltonia found a gris-gris downhill from "Deceiver", said it was marked with 2 colors.
ch... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress
By: timoteo When: Jul 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed here a little yesterday, enjoyed it all, and found some artifacts from a former era: 3 very rusty pitons, I just happened to see the eye of one sticking out of the dirt and pine needles. All 3 were nested together, right at the base of the cliff where the trail up leads to, before turning either R or L to get on a route. This is also more or less right below the central crack/chimney system, which I believe Bernard told me was done ages ago by maybe Jim Disney et al?
While climbing, ano... more >>
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Location: CO : John Bachar Passes Away
By: timoteo When: Jul 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I too mourn John's death, having met him once, and having watched him solo "Leave it to Beaver" as if it was a 5.6 jug-haul. An amazingly gifted, and bold, rock-climber (and a fine sax player too). And I also hear what Mr. Hawk is saying, and similarly urge all of you out there with responsibilities, love relationships, family ties, etc. to take a good hard look at whether or not the extreme risk-taking you may thrive on is worth the pain, loss, and vacuum you leave behind for others to deal wit... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Stone Point : Stone Rock
By: timoteo When: Jan 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So route E is 5.11a, past the horizontal/blocky area to the chains? There is a quick-link bail-off in this section, and my partner said the climbing beyond it was loose, lichen-y, and HARD. Sandbag, project, devious, or what gives? Liked the other 2!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Stone Point : Stone Rock
By: timoteo When: Nov 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: So has Route D been done yet? And, is "Fly Boy" different from "Palin Maneuver"?
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Stone Point : Stone Slab
By: timoteo When: Nov 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tried this area the other day, and was pleasantly surprised by its quality and thought-provoking, fun climbing. In case you haven't been there yet- the middle line seemed like the easiest, then the left one, with the right line being the pumpiest and most devious. Well worth a visit- good job!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Tick Rock
By: timoteo When: Nov 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slogged up to PTSD yesterday, and followed it (P1) in hiking shoes. In the old days, any route that you had to purposely avoid the better holds on (a cleaned crack, or flakes a foot or two away from bolts, for example) in order to get the "better" climbing and harder grade was considered contrived and silly. If PTSD is indicative of the newer routes in the Big T corridor, I think I'll stick to the old favorites up at Combat. You guys with the bolts and drills should check out TenSleep, in Wyomin... more >>
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