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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Mr. Peanut (5.10+)
By: Timmamok When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is an easy-moderate 10. If you want to see what 10+ feels like, go climb The Wave. Can't speak to the second pitch.
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Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Black Line Buttress : Diesel Driver (5.9)
By: Timmamok When: Sep 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Its been about 10 years since I climbed it, but I remember taking it to the top. It is a long pitch and classic. Stopping short, you didn't finish the route.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Bear Creek Spire : North Arete (5.8)
By: Timmamok When: Jul 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The description on here does in fact say it is 6 pitches (then mentions a 7th, which was the 6th we did). I pitched out the whole route and it ended up being 12 to the summit. Could have done it in 11. Pretty fun climb. Long day.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Public Service Wall : Variante Argentina (5.9)
By: Timmamok When: Apr 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both this and FIST are on the Public Service Wall. Maybe they could be moved to the Public Service Wall Page? I guess someone would have to make one up.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Nurse Rachet (5.11-)
By: Timmamok When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a little harder than .9 for the Creek. It's not 11- either. 5.10. Some good rests but harder than any 10- I've ever done at the creek.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Harts Draw
By: Timmamok When: Apr 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Harts Draw
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Grand Canyon National Park : Zoroaster Temple
By: Timmamok When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Click on the route
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Location: MD : Carderock : The Crack (5.3)
By: Timmamok When: Feb 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Isn't this called "Golden Staircase"? I don't know what the guide book says(and the Horst guide is pretty so so if I recall correctly - check the old Carderock book) but just go up the crack. hard for 5.3 - good old school rating and 5.8ish is right on for the first move or so. Fun solo.
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Location: MD : Carderock : Herbie's Horror (5.9)
By: Timmamok When: Jan 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Open Book, the Royal Robbins route in Tahquitz, gets credit for being the first 5.9 route. But doesn't this predate that by at least 10 years?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Gold Crown (5.11-)
By: Timmamok When: Jan 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Who decided to go and name this?
It was the best unnamed climb in the creek. Now its just another 4 star hand crack with a name.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Nuclear Waste (5.10-)
By: Timmamok When: Jan 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A bit of a sandbag at 10-. At least for Supercrack Buttress.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Three Fools (5.10)
By: Timmamok When: Jan 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe just a little more info on the route?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Just a Brick... (5.11)
By: Timmamok When: Jan 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stoppers work well.
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Location: MD : Carderock : Sterling's Crack (5.7)
By: Timmamok When: Sep 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the best route at Carderock and a good lead.
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Location: MT : Gallatin Canyon : Sparerib Area : Zig Zag (5.8)
By: Timmamok When: Aug 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climb the face to the right at the end of the second pitch for cleaner face climbing. It is about 5.6R+
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Unknown (5.10)
By: Timmamok When: May 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are you sure this isn't "Wild Works of Fire"?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Doggie Go (5.11-)
By: Timmamok When: Oct 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Isn't this called doggie do? It has a fun finish.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Warm-Up Handcrack (5.10)
By: Timmamok When: Mar 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone who thinks this is 10+ ought to go and climb The Wave at Supercrack for a good 10+ reference. Both are 4 star climbs.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Magnolia Thunderpussy (5.9)
By: Timmamok When: Feb 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was still 5.8 when I climbed it in the mid 90's.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : The Potato (5.10)
By: Timmamok When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is not the last route on the right side, though it is pretty dang close.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Run Like Hell (5.10)
By: Timmamok When: Oct 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Blue C4 a bad idea at that point. use a gold.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Unknown (5.10)
By: Timmamok When: Oct 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This description is pretty vague. It is just past Dawn of Age and just right of another OW with a big "Underling" section. It has been a few years but I think they either share anchors or could. The route is tight hands to OW (1 Camelots to 6)and would be classic if it were twice as long. A great route to practice OW. I think the FA was Andres Marin.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : The Sickle (5.10c)
By: Timmamok When: Oct 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was so much cooler without the name.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall
By: Timmamok When: Oct 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This wall was first called the Sinestra Wall.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Twitch (5.11) : Photo
By: Timmamok When: Oct 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rating is good. ****** got pissed a few years ago after flailing around on it.
- name changed to protect the guilty
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