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Member Since: Jun 2, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Tim Wolfe
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Point Rank: # 221
Total Points: 2,550
Last Year: 589
Last 30 Days: 0
64 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1693 | Routes 39 | Areas 20 | Photos 325 | Page Improvements | Comments 235 | Posts 3 | Stars 572 | Ratings 499
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - East Side : Effigy Too (5.10a/b)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Mar 21, 2012

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Comments: I always thought the start was a bit scary and the route stouter than its original 5.9+ rating


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Imaginary Voyage Formation : Imaginary Voyage (5.10d)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Mar 21, 2012

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Comments: This is a total circus trick hoot of a climb. I do it every time I visit Jtree for the novelty and to scare the hell out of whomever I am with. Once under the route looking up everyone I have taken refuses to lead it (the first time) even though the crux is in the first 10 feet (you can't see the hand rail so assume you will be offwidthing the roof). Anyone who has not done this route really needs to get on it - totally safe and good protection with unbelievable position. At the final roof you ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : N'Plus Ultra (5.10c)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Mar 20, 2012

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Comments: A total hoot circus trick climb. I have not done it in 25 years but I recall with one big cam to start and a couple 2.5-3.5 inches at the end you could climb it safely. Huge jugs at the roof exit. Near the lip you can get great leg jam and hang for a fun upside down shot.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall : Left Edge (5.10d)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Mar 16, 2012

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Comments: One hard reach (really long reach), rest is 5.7. Not really worth doing except you slogged all the way up here so you need a warm up.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Only the Good Die Young (5.11c)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Mar 16, 2012

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Comments: Wonderful line on perfect rock. Short pitches that are all fun and a few pretty stout moves that are super well protected (bolt ladders). The descent is actually very easy and fast if you don't go off route. Once on top traverse a very short distance on the obvious ledge then look down for a lower ledge that leads down towards the gully (do not walk all the way back on the first ledge). Carefully down climb to this second ledge, traverse and down climb to a ledge with trees - one has a rap set u... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Challenger Wall : Adventure Punks (5.10d)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: I did the route today. The run out section of the first pitch is about 20 feet above a sloping belay ledge, 35 feet off the ground. Easy for the first 15 feet then probably about 6-8 feet of quite thin crimps and smears for the feet to a solid 1 inch wide, 6 inch long flat edge. I guess you could duct tape a hook on that though it might rip off the edge. The gear right there in the flake is questionable as it might just pull the flake. Just grab the flake gently and mantel onto the ledge, then y... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : The Walker Spur (5.10b/c R)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jan 29, 2012

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Comments: Sweet climbing. We found good gear on pitch 2 - small cam then slotted wires or RPs all the way up to the roof. Don't miss this one - it is a wonderful trad route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : The Hidden Persuaders (5.9 R)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jan 29, 2012

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Comments: While I enjoyed climbing this route, I really do not think it is the quality of Birdland, (which I think is among the best routes in the park for good rock and classic climbing). We did the first pitch as described but looking at the photo posted here we were a bit further left - started off the boulder, climbed up past 3 horizontals gradually moving from left to right. The final horizontal was full of dirt and crumbling but we just climbed straight over it until standing above the final section... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Orange Clonus (5.10d)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jan 29, 2012

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Comments: The first pitch deserves to be done just for its own sake. Great pitch. As others have commented, I would suggest it is a bit harder than 5.10d as an onsite. Once I flew off and had time to see the holds it went but it was still hard. Bring some tiny cams for the last, easier half of the pitch. Unfortunately you then have a few hundred feet of not such good climbing to the final great pitch, which distracts a bit from a higher star rating. We did the final splitter as two pitches - climb the 5.... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Solar Flare (5.10-)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: This route would be 4 stars if it either was more sustained or it didn't have the two cruxes and was an easier grade. Regardless the rock is beautiful black varnish for a few pitches with great moves, then very interesting though less solid rock through the 5.9 roof. I guess the crappy bolt is gone since I never clipped it. The crux is short and fun - couple quick boulder moves that I guess might be 5.10. I would not belay at the "first" belay - just step right from the initial crack out on the ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Dubious Flirtations (5.10b/c)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: This would be a 3 star route if you could keep climbing it to a belay straight up and it cleaned up a bit. As it stands, climb the face to the left of the corner, get in gear when you hit the crack, climb it through the roof and above. Once the crack peters out drift right - skip the chimney belay and keep going to the bushes until you find the tiny tree belay from which you can rappel. No need for a belay in the middle since it goes easily to the tree as a single pitch. You will need 2 ropes to... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Heliotrope (5.8 R)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: Pitch 2 has some nice crack climbing that is probably stout for the 5.8 grade at RR. Save small cams to about 0.75 for the belay on pitch 3. Pitch 4 would be R or maybe X rated if you go straight for the crack 100 feet up on the white stone as I initially did. I reversed from quite high and traversed left a bit to clove-hitch a plate and then felt much safer. So I suggest that on pitch 4 you drift a bit left then back slightly right to the crack as the direct line gets quite run out on sloper sa... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Arch Enemy (5.9)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Nov 13, 2011

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Comments: Very nice option on the upper tier. Pretty standard 5.9 arm bars with foot smearing, then standard chimney. The third pitch finger crack is spectacular and should not be missed - has a couple short 5.9ish sections as well.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Heartbreaker : Surfing the Orgasmic Wave (5.11)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Sep 27, 2011

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Comments: Hard! Thin crimps, great line.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Heartbreaker : Heartbreaker (5.10d)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Sep 27, 2011

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Comments: Sooo Good. Tape up. The route needs no beta - just look at it, get ready, go. Total knee lock rests up high (wear a left knee brace/sleeve).


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Shadow of the Blade (5.10d PG13)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Sep 1, 2011

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Comments: All the 5.10 pitches are great with some thoughtful sequences. The 2nd pitch is steep and the edges are sharp - the second might appreciate 2 ropes as opposed to a single rope. Really only need a single set of 3 or 4 cams 1-3 inches and plenty of draws/long slings if you want to cut weight. I only use them on the 3rd pitch and it protects very well. Its an easy walk off with no risk of rockfall if you hike.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge
By: Tim Wolfe When: Aug 21, 2011

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Comments: Has anyone climbed in this area during clear weather in mid to late September or is it just getting too cold on the fingers? Usually the Wind Rivers are too cold by then, so I am looking for other alpine areas that can still be climbed on a clear day in September.
Thanks, Tim Wolfe


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : Sales Pitch Area : Sales Pitch (5.10d PG13)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Aug 8, 2011

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Comments: Wonderful but short. Well worth the hike I believe. Very thin edging, 2 bolts a bit old but 2 are good enough and good gear at the end. The belay is a bit of a concern though - hard to get to solo so someone just needs to rap a single piece or leave a cam.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Endless Torment (5.10b)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jul 22, 2011

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Comments: Wonderful line - classic LLC slab and thin lie off climb. Why it took me nearly 30 years to do this is unclear. The route combines the need for gear placement skills with thin slab technique and has a nice little runnout near the top (why would anyone stop at the chains - do the whole pitch for the full experience). As for the question above regarding the upper part of the climb - climb past the midway bolts to a short lie back straight above (good gear), clip the bolt, climb up and right on sl... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Pudgy Gumbies (5.11d PG13)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jul 22, 2011

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Comments: Sweet line. Hard onsite since the moves are so tenuous while placing the gear. My buddy Phil Meck got the gear in and we did laps. Wish it got more traffic to clean up a bit.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Sorcerer : Thin Ice (5.10b)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jul 7, 2011

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Comments: Unbelievable. Everyone needs to do the first pitch. The second...... different and strenuous. I can't think of a better granite pitch than this first one though.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Pywiak Dome : Aqua Knobby (5.9)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jul 7, 2011

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Comments: I do this route every time I pass through Toulome. Absolutely wonderful, requires good head but is all there if you use your feet. Still PG 13 I think.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Inverted Staircase (5.10b PG13)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jul 7, 2011

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Comments: Really nice alternate to some of the busier routes on the dome. Definately needs to be done if you are climbing 5.10 slab and undercling and are in Toulome looking for a not busy route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome, Right : Ciebola (5.10b PG13)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jul 7, 2011

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Comments: Coming back years later I forgot the first pitch is no give away. The second pitch is simply stunning.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Mad Calf Disease (5.11b/c)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jul 5, 2011

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Comments: Don't let the dirty approach pitch dissuade you from the climb since the second pitch is fantastic thin edging. I liked this pitch more than any other on the crag. Belay as John describes down a bit at a better stance. Go up, clip the two bolt belay with a long sling, turn the roof (small cam about 0.4 to 0.5 inch protects very well), clip a line of bolts - the crux is very short but delicate after bolt 3 - climb to a ledge and finish (one more piece of gear 0.5 to .075 range plus bolts). The ho... more >>


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