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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Geezer Wall : Climber's Choice Wall : Midlife Cracksis (5.8)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jul 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wonderful if short. Can't imagine why any bolts would be needed - tons of great gear. Easier than it looks.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Geezer Wall : Climber's Choice Wall : Rager's Edge (5.10b)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jul 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Worth doing, Eases back after the initial sequence
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Redrum : Redrum (5.10c)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jul 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best route on the wall - nice pump.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Hollow Man (5.9)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jul 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kind of getting slippery now.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Better than Bitter (5.10b)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jul 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route. So popular now it is getting awefully greasy. Perhaps stout for 10b BCC grade.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : cTr (5.10b)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jul 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Feels solid this month. 4 of us climbed it with nothing loose. Be careful not to Z-clip (plenty of close bolts). Good warm up, plenty fun though nothing tricky, but --- is this really 5.10? Good for the aspiring "5.10" leader to help with confidence.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Talk Buttress : Notalotatalk (5.8)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jul 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second best route on the wall after the 5.9 just to this routes left.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Talk Buttress : Look Who's Talking (5.8)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jul 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Getting off is a pain. Climbing is otherwise good. Save this one for last.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Talk Buttress : Talking Tough (5.9)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jul 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good old school standard 5.9. Not runnout but not a clip up. Gear is fine if you have the right sizes. Best route on the wall
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Talk Buttress : Talkin' Them Broken Foot Bl... (5.10d)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jul 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: One move wonder. OK to do if you are up there.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Cymbals Of The Sun (5.11+)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jun 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very thin and very sustained. I won't even try to rate it given all the falls and slips as well as not doing the entire route. In another league compared to most granite slabs I have done in the Wasatch. Cudos to the first ascentionists.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Butcher Knife (5.10d)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Jun 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went up yesterday and did this and other routes. Last visit to Butcher knife was 1986 when it was in better shape. Unfortunately this wonderful route has significant gear deterioration - ancient bolts and no piton left. Great climbing but forgotten and probably a bit dangerous now until it gets fixed.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Cruel Shoes (5.10d)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic slab climbing. This is the best way to do the full grand wall - spits you out right at the base of the split pillar allowing even more great climbing to top off the day.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Wheeler-Newsome Wall : Wing Nut (5.11c)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seth Shaw drug me up this. He made it look easy. Quiet burly.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Paranoia Streak (5.10c R)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with the helmet. I have climbed this many times and have fallen from 3 distinct cruxes over the years. Once I hit quite hard and then bounced onto my head/helmet.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Gordon's Direct (5.11b R)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: How did this get an R rating? Lots of good gear. Great route with a totally well protected final crux
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Perhaps Direct (5.9 R)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A couple quick moves near the ground - then easy to the belay. Skips the first pitch and is probably easier than the traverse right of the first pitch. A nice way to get to the harder climbing above
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Sinsemilla Crack (5.10)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I highly recommend tape or very careful jamming. This one will cut you up.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Sail : Flying Dutchman (5.10c R)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best routes in the canyon. Stunning crack with heady runnout face at the top. Well worth the walk over and over again.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Missing Link (5.10 R)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic old school LCC slab. A bit gritty back in the 80's and still the same.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Sticky Fingers (5.10d)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you hiked all the way up here this is a must - great route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Great Ripoff, The (5.10b PG13)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: All our gear was stolen from the base when we put this route up. Its a bit run after the second both due to no stances left to drill on the lead.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : The Next Century (5.10 PG13)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Mar 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: An amazing line on bullet proof rock. A must do for those who like careful, delicate, thought provoking climbing at this grade. Through the retrospectroscope this is not as run out as it looks - but it seems otherwise until you are right on the gear placement. If you drift off the perfect line (easy to do on stone with so many holds) it is R rated, if not then the gear is fine - bring some small brass, a few wires and a few cams 1/2 inch to 2.5 inches.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Y2K (5.10a)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Mar 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Spectacular first pitch. This pitch is 3-4 stars and deserves being climbed even if you do not wish to finish the route. The middle two pitches are ho-hum. The final pitch has a short, steep, thin section that takes a small RP and perhaps microcam then a bit of a run with no gear on 5.9 terrain - keeps you focused.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Corduroy Ridge : Sick for Toys (5.10)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Mar 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolted line to the left on the start of the first pitch actually also has bolts over the roofs for a direct line to the first belay at about a 5.10+/11a grade and offers less risk of a big swing to the second climber. The route is a true slab climb as opposed to the usual steeper edge climbing more typical in Red Rocks. Fun, thin, and old school ratings.
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