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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Crab Legs (5.9)
By: Tim Wolfe When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a thoughful route that is definately worth climbing, getting warmed up for other harder stuff in the area and it moves into the shade sooner than the Mean Mistreater wall. The moves to the first bolt are 5.6 for 2 feet so probably don't need protection. The moves under the roof half way up take a 3 inch cam to the right - the left crack is miniscule. A 0.3-0.7 cam likely could fit high up before the belay. No other gear is needed or even available.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Mean Mistreater (5.10c)
By: Tim Wolfe When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is classic old school trad climbing. Thoughtful moves at times a bit off your gear. I am not sure about the comments regarding a ledge fall at the crux. The true runnout is on P2 going to the first bolt, not after the second bolt - definate ledge fall potential down low here but if you climb the weakest line it takes small gear before you step over to the bolt and the moves there are all easy. The crux has a bolt (#2) and microcams just above it - extremely well protected for a move t... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Agatha Christie (Direct) (5.8)
By: Tim Wolfe When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: AS an outsider, I looked at this route and thought is was contrived and dirty appearing. Wrong. Great line, fun moves, just pure nice 5.8 climbing.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Old Man (5.9)
By: Tim Wolfe When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Straight up, slightly right at the first bulge and turning the high roof to the right up high makes for a great line. The crux is the first move - tiny piece of brass protects it well. As stated above, there are now two chains and you can rap straight down to your packs.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : R4 (5.9)
By: Tim Wolfe When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome line that cliimbs like a sport climb, protects with gear. Definately the little thin smears under the roof are the crux.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Single Lens Reflex (5.10)
By: Tim Wolfe When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is nicely sustained. The bolts are gone but it is an easy traverse due left about 40 feet to another set of chains that you can belay from and then rap off with a 70 meter rope.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Crows Nest (5.10)
By: Tim Wolfe When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Among my favorite routes at Mt. Lemmon. Lots of undercling, lie-off stemming moves that go for 100+ feet. I found that two sets of cams from about 0.4 to 3 inches with one #4, a few wires and lots of long slings to reduce any drag made it very safe and well protected. It is really one pitch - why stop after 60 feet and hang when it is just similar climbing to the top and you can lower straight to the ground from there on one rope? Double your fun and do the entire pitch skipping the sport ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Silmarillion (5.10)
By: Tim Wolfe When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Another great slab climb with very well bolted thin cruxes.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Middle Earth (5.10)
By: Tim Wolfe When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice route, bolts are perfect, the "run-outs" are on easier terrain and typical for a well bolted slab type climb so are not scary.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Earth Angel (5.9)
By: Tim Wolfe When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: A safely bolted warm up route to get ready for the others nearby.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Pull Me Up (5.10+)
By: Tim Wolfe When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an absolutely fantastic line! One of the top routes I have done here (Along with Crows Nest, Nang, Mean Mistreater). Where are all the climbers?
I thought the moves just past the second bolt were harder than 10+ even for Mt Lemmon. The next 100+ feet were left leaning 5.10 lie-offs on small crips with cross over after cross over. There are a few body tension rests, but sustained for a considerable distance. Rack the draws on your left hip - this is where you are pulling them from. A mus... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Lights Out At Ten Candles ... (5.10a)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Too bad about the history of obliterating a trad line. Never the less, it is a fun route with a very thin steep slabby crux and my kids quite enjoyed climbing it.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : If I Only Had a Brain (5.10)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome line that is easier than it initially appears. Really well bolted and safe - just go and a hold will show up. Sharp so feet stick like glue.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : The Dark Side of Oz (5.8)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably the best easy route here - lots of fun side pulls and moves for
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Clip Clip Here, Clip Clip T... (5.9)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Much better than it looks. Final moves are a hoot.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Face Of A Dictator (5.11-)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crimpy, hard, I think its well worth doing if you are over here. Do Go Speed Racer first as it is better.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Go Speed Racer (5.10+)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice juggy 5.10 with lots of shake out rests on jugs and good foot holds so you can eyeball the next sequence. Well bolted, safe, pure fun sport climbing. A couple of hard moves make it 5.10+ but I don't believe it clocks in at any 5.11 range. Moves into the sun about 3 pm.
One comment on the description - it is the Second bolted route left of the big crack, not the third
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Family Affair (5.10b/c)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very safe now. Clean, thin edges. Shady.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Bosch it (5.10c)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very well bolted and safe with a crux move at the roof that is a bit harder than anything else on the route. Well worth doing. Shady.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Scooby Doobie (5.10-)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed - 10c is better rating as the second clip and moving just beyond is quite difficult and thin. Guess I messed up and stayed left or just on the bolt line.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Chimichanga (5.10+)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great fun, crux is early moving right to the 4th bolt. The upper section is steep but less difficult.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Nang (5.10a)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an absolutely brilliant climb. Best route our family did in a week of climbing here at Mt Lemmon. Has a bit of hard slabby crimps, a little runnout to keep you focused and ends with awesome overhanging jugs. A classic and memorable 5.10 for any area. Do it.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Jack the Slipper (5.9-)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This site and the guide say that this is a two pitch 5.9 with total of 90 feet. The second pitch is much harder and its first bolt is mank with very burly thin stuff over the bolt. Not sure there is not a typo but the second 5.9 pitch is missing or mis-rated.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Mid-Mountain : ... : Glowing In The Distance (5.9)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route that share the first bolt and goes directly up to left of this route is even better - 5.9+ thin edging.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Parental Guidance (5.10 R)
By: Tim Wolfe When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stick clip first bolt and its not runnout. Clean thin moves on small holds (bolted) to great gear. The lower flake seems pretty bomber and likely would hold short fall on gear. The upper flake has a nice bolt to protect it so needs no gear. Felt safer than most of the other routes in this grade on the wall.
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