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Member Since: Jun 14, 2009
Last Visit: Aug 13, 2016
Contact Tim Kuss

Point Rank: # 2,702
Total Points: 260
Last Year: 36
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tim Kuss been climbing?










Contributions


All 232 | Routes 10 | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 69 | Posts 37 | Stars 86 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : Rumplestiltskin (5.12a)
By: Tim Kuss When: May 1, 2011

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Comments: The hanger is still missing as of the last day of April, 2011. Who would remove it/have it fall off/break and not fix it?


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 24, 2011

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Comments: Hey Sam, sorry that is neg.nelly. You are absolutely entitled to your opinion. 'Cause that's all star ratings are. We all want other people to get on our routes. But Really? Or maybe you're talking about my critique of y'all's ignorance of climbing terminology- just callin' it like I see it, yo.

I soloed the route. I said I had a good time. This horse has been getting whipped and beaten since climbing began, and I think it will live a long and wretched life. Beating the horse is half the... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 22, 2011

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Comments: You can not claim an "onsight" as you were able to pre-inspect certain/any holds as you rapped on past. Any form of toprope pre-inspection or prior knowledge is a "redpoint" or if dangerous/runout moves are present it is a "headpoint", especially if rehearsed. Kinda my definitions anyway.

Some of the bolts used are not 5 piece Rawls or Petzl. I'd like to know what they are?

By the way, you can clip the first bolt on Betty before doing the crux. Ya jus' gotta figure that move out.
... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 18, 2011

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Comments: For the sake of keeping out conversation going, and for the record:
Stoneage Struggle- hand drilled from stances starting at the bottom.
Betty - hand drilled, on lead.
Dogs of Doom - led ground-up, no bolts.
Journey Home - started at top, hike down gully, led from bottom.
All are examples of trad routes, done in traditional style, as opposed to a sport route which is typically drilled on rap and well protected.

I don't think most people care about the "artifi... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 15, 2011

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Comments: So, I came up with some specific examples to more sharply illustrate my point of view:
When I was climbing this route the other day, I got to a point a bit past the third bolt, where I stood on one foot for quite some time- kinda scared and wonderin' what to do. This is a stance where a guy drilling on lead would naturally have fired in a bolt (I sure wanted one, just then).

But alas, the decision was made whilst hanging on a rope, thus creating an artificial runout. So,... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 14, 2011

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Comments: Yeah, that was a totally sarcastic comment as we had just been through the awesome Contortionist debate. I still haven't done Martyr's Crown, so I can't say much about how the runouts feel to me. I did boulder up to the first bolt and back down-that was cool. If you think it needs more bolts, that's up to you.

Your values, when it comes to the mental aspect of scary routes, are much like my own. But climbing has become so diverse in that different segments of people have different poi... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 13, 2011

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Comments: Hey, I did this route today and had a good time. I toproped it many years ago and decided against the work/expense. But clipping your bolts, I found it to be worthy.

I would add a bolt at the start, even though it's easy, just to mark the route. And I would add a bolt at the finish, if you want people to ever do the route. With all the lichen (get's wet), the rock will always be a little soft and dirty, so the it's likely that holds could break. Some pro is nice in that case. No comparison ... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Overview & Waterfall : Hysteria (5.12b)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: It might be quite a bit harder than .12b.... 'Bout time for someone else to get on it? C'mon, man!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseud... (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 12, 2011

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Comments: Before that, it was called Bush and Dirt Crack.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 29, 2010

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Comments: The route is not essentially a solo. Go do it with a rope, then go free solo it. Big difference. For real.




Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 11, 2010

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Comments: Some people would call that a SCREAMER. Must have been at least 40 or 50 feet.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 9, 2010

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Comments: I did overhear you talking about The Black Arete but didn't catch your intent. I thought maybe you were bolting something new near it or I would have said something. The tool comment was rhetorical and not directed at a specific person.

We all know you think this would be a contribution/improvement.

When you minimize the value of the East Animas Climbing Area, you display your vast inexperience. Perhaps when you gain another decade or two of climbing travel, you might learn to appreciate the... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: When I bolted The Kong Route, I avoided bolting where Kong joins The Black Arete for a short distance. Yesterday I noticed Tyler drilling uncomfortably close to where you get the thin gear on both routes, so the location of the evil retrobolts may also be an issue. Would it be possible to step up and clip the new bolt on Black Arete to protect the moves before the clip on Kong? That would be cause for more insults and threats. For real.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: I'm only interested in furthering my reputation as an opinionated azzole.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Aw c'mon, this is awesome!

I'll re-post this from the all time climbing guru Werner Braun:
Not all routes are meant to be safe or enjoyed by many people.

They are "there" whether one enjoys or not, if it's safe or not.

Routes have soul....

You can cover that soul, with ignorance, passion, and goodness.

And, ... you can come face to face with that soul when you transcend those 3 modes and come to pure goodness.

The best and most beautiful pearls lie in the deepest ocean.



Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: How about a diverse selection of runout routes? Between me retrobolting "my" routes and others', unknown people retrobolting "mine" and others' routes, soon we will be left with only "safe" routes. Leading this route without bolts is an advancement for that level of climber. And yes, we do it for our ego, to make ourselves feel good about our accomplishments. That's exactly why people are pissed about it.

Retrobolting is a slippery slope, man.

You are right! I am a wuss for not sol... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: By the way, I'm all for respecting the FA party, Dave. The dudes I was with don't give a rats azz about that though. So....


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Several months ago, on the "Contortionist" debate, David Kozak posted that he was considering retrobolting The Black Arete. I read that as a stab at keeping the ridiculous debate interesting and funny. In my mind, it would never happen. Everyone else ignored the comment as well.

What with The Black Arete being probably the most classic runout pitch at East A and Dave not being the FA party(?), why and how could that happen?

I remember seeing the late Dave Wagonner do that pitch back in the e... more >>


Location: CO : Silverton area : Eureka area : Goldrush Area : Americana Arete (5.10c)
By: Tim Kuss When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: The rap anchors on this route each need chain and quicklinks to make them proper, as the current set-up is AFU.

Also, there is a teetering block waiting near the last bolt. I didn't know where my dog was, so I snuck past it without sending it.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 25, 2010

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Comments: That crack is another futuristic East A prize. My friend Joel placed the bolts (on rappel, I believe). I don't think they put all that much effort into it at that time though. I have tried it, but also didn't put in much time on it. The move by the bottom bolt is really hard then the climbing gets easier and awesome, then really hard again. It's probly not as hard as some of the other things they bolted that were way over their heads. It is something I would really like to work on. You sh... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 22, 2010

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Comments: Since this discussion has been beaten to death for many years, by everyone, we can learn what the big dogs have said. This is part of a post by Werner Braun from Supertopo:

Not all routes are meant to be safe or enjoyed by many people.

They are "there" whether one enjoys or not, if it's safe or not.

Routes have soul ....

You can cover that soul, with ignorance, passion, and goodness.

And, ... you can come face to face with that soul when you transcend those 3 modes and come to pure goo... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: Also from the guidebook: sport routes: over engineered rig jobs....installed by dirtbags who are too lazy to place removable protection or too scared to run it out.... I also admitted there, to retrobolting some of the routes that I established on rappel, because it is my oppinion that it is "unethical" to ask people to fire a runout, onsight, that the FA party preinspected on rappel. Any comments I've made only support the right of the FA party.

I agree though. Once that bolt goes i... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: I thought we were done with this but....

Dave, I have an old Bosch Bulldog for you. It was probably the first climbing power drill in town. I know it would be perfect for retrobolting routes from that era.

Ian, thanks for the respect but try not to make me feel too old, man. I'm still just a climber, the only difference is I've grown out of idealistic climbing "ethics" which are the most abstract and absurd thing in recreational sports. For a community that prides themselves as being free-thi... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Crime & Punishment (5.11a)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: The first bolt has become known as the "panty bolt", so named for the panties that were hung on it this winter in an apparent protest of its retro addition.

By the way, it protects the hardest move on the whole route which is either 11a or 10b if you're a sandbagger like Matt...!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Dune (5.11-)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: Try the "Hardman Variation" B-1. Really the direct start to Dune. Start on the initial hold of Sandman but make the giant reach left to the big pocket. Continue up on some sketchy holds, joining Dune at the 4th bolt. Or link into Sandman.


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