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Member Since: Jun 14, 2009
Last Visit: Sep 16, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,487
Total Points: 214
Last Year: 19
Last 30 Days: 0
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tim Kuss been climbing?










Contributions


All 187 | Routes 10 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 54 | Posts 20 | Stars 81 | Ratings 10
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: How about a diverse selection of runout routes? Between me retrobolting "my" routes and others', unknown people retrobolting "mine" and others' routes, soon we will be left with only "safe" routes. Leading this route without bolts is an advancement for that level of climber. And yes, we do it for our ego, to make ourselves feel good about our accomplishments. That's exactly why people are pissed about it.

Retrobolting is a slippery slope, man.

You are right! I am a wuss for not solo... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: By the way, I'm all for respecting the FA party, Dave. The dudes I was with don't give a rats azz about that though. So....


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Several months ago, on the "Contortionist" debate, David Kozak posted that he was considering retrobolting The Black Arete. I read that as a stab at keeping the ridiculous debate interesting and funny. In my mind, it would never happen. Everyone else ignored the comment as well.

What with The Black Arete being probably the most classic runout pitch at East A and Dave not being the FA party(?), why and how could that happen?

I remember seeing the late Dave Wagonner do that pitch back in the e... more >>


Location: CO : Silverton area : Eureka area : Goldrush Area : Americana Arete (5.10c)
By: Tim Kuss When: Jul 13, 2010

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Comments: The rap anchors on this route each need chain and quicklinks to make them proper, as the current set-up is AFU.

Also, there is a teetering block waiting near the last bolt. I didn't know where my dog was, so I snuck past it without sending it.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 25, 2010

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Comments: That crack is another futuristic East A prize. My friend Joel placed the bolts (on rappel, I believe). I don't think they put all that much effort into it at that time though. I have tried it, but also didn't put in much time on it. The move by the bottom bolt is really hard then the climbing gets easier and awesome, then really hard again. It's probly not as hard as some of the other things they bolted that were way over their heads. It is something I would really like to work on. You sh... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 22, 2010

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Comments: Since this discussion has been beaten to death for many years, by everyone, we can learn what the big dogs have said. This is part of a post by Werner Braun from Supertopo:

Not all routes are meant to be safe or enjoyed by many people.

They are "there" whether one enjoys or not, if it's safe or not.

Routes have soul ....

You can cover that soul, with ignorance, passion, and goodness.

And, ... you can come face to face with that soul when you transcend those 3 modes and come to pure goo... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: Also from the guidebook: sport routes: over engineered rig jobs....installed by dirtbags who are too lazy to place removable protection or too scared to run it out.... I also admitted there, to retrobolting some of the routes that I established on rappel, because it is my oppinion that it is "unethical" to ask people to fire a runout, onsight, that the FA party preinspected on rappel. Any comments I've made only support the right of the FA party.

I agree though. Once that bolt goes i... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 19, 2010

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Comments: I thought we were done with this but....

Dave, I have an old Bosch Bulldog for you. It was probably the first climbing power drill in town. I know it would be perfect for retrobolting routes from that era.

Ian, thanks for the respect but try not to make me feel too old, man. I'm still just a climber, the only difference is I've grown out of idealistic climbing "ethics" which are the most abstract and absurd thing in recreational sports. For a community that prides themselves as being free-thi... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Crime & Punishment (5.11a)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: The first bolt has become known as the "panty bolt", so named for the panties that were hung on it this winter in an apparent protest of its retro addition.

By the way, it protects the hardest move on the whole route which is either 11a or 10b if you're a sandbagger like Matt...!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Dune (5.11-)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: Try the "Hardman Variation" B-1. Really the direct start to Dune. Start on the initial hold of Sandman but make the giant reach left to the big pocket. Continue up on some sketchy holds, joining Dune at the 4th bolt. Or link into Sandman.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Sweeney's Special (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 7, 2010

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Comments: I suppose that if the route had been done in the modern era, it may have stopped at the ledge, but back in the day, it was cool to take a route as far as one could climb- especially if you could get to the top. But if the whole place was developed in the modern era, it would only be a bunch of sport routes, eh?


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 7, 2010

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Comments: Wow! It's totally respectable to see so many younger climbers who value this route in its boltless state. You guys an inspiration.

I think aid climbers would still find the route to be A1, bolt or no bolt. And, if we are going by "traditional values" here, no one should chop anything, (consensus or no) if the FA party returns to finish equipping their route. One can take any discussion to its extreme end, i.e; Republicans and Al Qaeda.

Really, Kevin! Way to keep grade inflation i... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: Copied from "East Animas" page:

By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
2 days ago

Anyone interested in East A ethical issues should check out the route Contortionist on this site. A lively debate about convenience and quality vs. traditional ideals.

By Brad Brandewie
2 days ago

Tim,
That's some clever phrasing, pairing "convenience and quality" as being the other side of the argument against "traditional ideals".

"Quality" is applicable to either side of the argument, depending on one's perspectiv... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: Brad, I agree. Ideals = quality. My own ideals straddle both sides, so I'm enjoying the debate in my own mind as well. As Skyeler said, I suffer from "cognitive dissonance".

Ian, I don't think a bolt would bring the "level" down but only the time spent getting the gear. Just like placing fixed anchors at the top of a route make it more convenient, but not more accessible.

Anyone can stand there for twenty minutes and fish in stoppers, then it's all about the (still really ... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 2, 2010

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Comments: Anyone interested in East A ethical issues should check out the route Contortionist on this site. A lively debate about convenience and quality vs. traditional ideals.

Now check out "The Black Arete" for a similar, more hysterical debate.


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : East Side : Flat Track (5.11c)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: The 5.8 first pitch of this route is called Dirt Track. I mean to go back and add a bolt to Flat Track where there is a nasty fall potential after the third bolt.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Sweeney's Special (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: Climbing well is all about footwork, not wingspan. Sweeney's Special is typically done using both cracks. If you found poor quality on this route, you were probably off route.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: After the bolt goes in, we can talk about y'all's star ratings. Three stars really? I'd be willing to go to two stars with a bolt or a bolted on jug, perhaps two and a quarter with a bolt and a glued on foothold, but three stars in its current state? Man, that's pushing it. You can't give a route three stars, then call it choss. Such hypocrisy. Amusing though.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Three Open Books (5.9)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: Definitely not. I realize how that statement could be taken as hypocritical. The difference being the bolts placed by the first ascent party.Also, there is no "boldness factor" on the Contortionist.
See also: thread for Contortionist.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: Obviously, my attempt to reflect sarcasm with written words has fallen short as usual. I'm old and don't know how to use modicons and other texting tricks to express this. I would rarely support adding bolts to existing routes without FA consent. But I do suffer from cognitive dissonance just like most climbers who ponder such issues. Otherwise, I would have to onsight freesolo every time I went climbing, as it is my belief that this is the only legit way to climb.

This is just my opinion w... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 25, 2010

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Comments: Another advantage to adding a bolt at the crux is that it would encourage more climbing on the route that forks left from the crux (Leeper hangers). It's a good route that probably got one or two ascents back in the late 1980s.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Push-Me-Pull-You (5.10a)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 21, 2010

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Comments: They used to call it 5.9 when they did it in the 1970s in EBs. I think it's classic in an old school East A way.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 21, 2010

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Comments: OK, toproping is uncool at East A but totally cool at XRock, where one might be introduced to climbing on a toprope. You go to East A to lead Yo! I don't know, toproping at East A just seems (odd, out of character, atypical; not quite right, weirdo, nOOb), even if we all do it. Too much South Park. Funny, innocent way of speaking? This is totally off topic. Peace.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 17, 2010

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Comments: I would support installing a bolt at the crux of this route as well. As Kozak did, I have climbed the route ground- up (that's the way we used to do it), but rarely repeat it. Alas, while the gear is bomber, it is such a pain in the ass to place it for the one move of climbing which doesn't really fit, quality wise, with the rest of the route. If you could clip and blow through the one awkward move, the route would be a lot more fun. Punta Magna, on the other hand, is much easier to protect, t... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Three Open Books (5.9)
By: Tim Kuss When: Dec 3, 2009

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Comments: This is an old route, done in the '70s, with the gear of that era, and without the fixed gear that has been added. It was an excellent testpiece for those seeking some boldness at that grade. Now someone has F'd it with some lame, drilled angles. Way to go, pus!


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