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Member Since: Jun 14, 2009
Last Visit: Sep 16, 2014
Contact Tim Kuss


Point Rank: # 2,492
Total Points: 214
Last Year: 19
Last 30 Days: 0
8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tim Kuss been climbing?










Contributions


All 187 | Routes 10 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 54 | Posts 20 | Stars 81 | Ratings 10
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Durango
By: Tim Kuss When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments:
The 2014 edition of <em>Durango Sandstone</em> is available now!  Find it at Backcountry Experience, Gardenswartz Outdoors, Pine Needle Mountaineering, Maria's Bookshop and The Rock Lounge.
The 2014 edition of Durango Sandstone is available now! Find it at Backcountry Experience, Gardenswartz Outdoors, Pine Needle Mountaineering, Maria's Bookshop and The Rock Lounge.

It is also available on Amazon.


Location: CO : Durango : Vallecito Crags
By: Tim Kuss When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: It's cool that these are bolted into real routes now. I remember doing these in the early 1980s. John Duran and friends had done a bunch of climbing on this wall previous to taking me there. It's funny how having bolts to follow somehow makes the climbing better. We used to just look for the cleanest line and avoid making climbing into easy territory. Of course, we were into big runouts at that time, so no bolts was a plus.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Overview & Waterfall : Totally High Maintenance (5.11b)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: It's a dang oak bush, ya bunch of bleeding hearts! Imma bolt it right where it leans, and it will stay there another 20 years. Falling ice has killed that twig more than 1000 climbers. Can't kill gamble oak with poison, chainsaw, or fire. It does seem to be dying though...drought!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Byrd's : Freebase (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: When John Duran and I did the FA, we started by surmounting the choss roof, just off the ground, with a hard move onto a clean, unprotected face. No need to go to the bolt, which is some other contrivance. Go instead through a bush on the right, then make a slab move to gain the bottom of the crack. We used to belay right there, but I'll bet you could do it from the ground. If it had a convenient lowering anchor, it might make it more popular, as it should be. Maybe some bolts on that low fa... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Direct to Sweeney's (5.11a R)
By: Tim Kuss When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: 'Bout time someone made this into a legit route. Maybe y'all should add another bolt or two, get rid of that pesky "R" thing. People would do it. Just sayin'.
Peace.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Valhalla (5.12+)
By: Tim Kuss When: Jul 2, 2012

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Comments: This is a superb route. Right up there with the best climbing in Durango.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : (Enter) Sandman (5.9)
By: Tim Kuss When: Oct 26, 2011

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Comments: Word. She was fetching the quickdraws. OOps, I didn't realize they had people patrolling this site for fowls.


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir : Ophir Wall : Main Wall : Total Recall (5.11c/d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Jun 12, 2011

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Comments: Oh, bolted on lead. I can see now, why the bolts not at the clipping stances. Kinda sucks. Like a lot of routes at Ophir, this one needs a rebuild. Get with the modern world, man!


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir
By: Tim Kuss When: May 19, 2011

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Comments: The bolts leading right from Brady's were installed by Jared Ogden a few years ago. I don't know how much work they put into climbing it though, or much else for that matter. Looks pretty hard.

The other line of bolts is definitely a great line. Jim Symans bolted it back in the Lemon heyday. I have toyed with it, really hard for sure, maybe 13+ or so. You should work on those, get 'em done. I'll give you a belay, man.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Tim Kuss When: May 1, 2011

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Comments: Just wondering if anyone more local to the Tower than me has considered replacing all the time bomb bolts and hangers that exist on nearly every route there? Beware. Many recalled SMC hangers. Many lower grade Redhed style bolts. Rusty. Crap. Never mind the missing hanger on Rumplestiltskin.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : Rumplestiltskin (5.12a)
By: Tim Kuss When: May 1, 2011

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Comments: The hanger is still missing as of the last day of April, 2011. Who would remove it/have it fall off/break and not fix it?


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 24, 2011

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Comments: Hey Sam, sorry that is neg.nelly. You are absolutely entitled to your opinion. 'Cause that's all star ratings are. We all want other people to get on our routes. But Really? Or maybe you're talking about my critique of y'all's ignorance of climbing terminology- just callin' it like I see it, yo.

I soloed the route. I said I had a good time. This horse has been getting whipped and beaten since climbing began, and I think it will live a long and wretched life. Beating the horse is half the... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 22, 2011

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Comments: You can not claim an "onsight" as you were able to pre-inspect certain/any holds as you rapped on past. Any form of toprope pre-inspection or prior knowledge is a "redpoint" or if dangerous/runout moves are present it is a "headpoint", especially if rehearsed. Kinda my definitions anyway.

Some of the bolts used are not 5 piece Rawls or Petzl. I'd like to know what they are?

By the way, you can clip the first bolt on Betty before doing the crux. Ya jus' gotta figure that move out.
... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 18, 2011

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Comments: For the sake of keeping out conversation going, and for the record:
Stoneage Struggle- hand drilled from stances starting at the bottom.
Betty - hand drilled, on lead.
Dogs of Doom - led ground-up, no bolts.
Journey Home - started at top, hike down gully, led from bottom.
All are examples of trad routes, done in traditional style, as opposed to a sport route which is typically drilled on rap and well protected.

I don't think most people care about the "artifi... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 15, 2011

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Comments: So, I came up with some specific examples to more sharply illustrate my point of view:
When I was climbing this route the other day, I got to a point a bit past the third bolt, where I stood on one foot for quite some time- kinda scared and wonderin' what to do. This is a stance where a guy drilling on lead would naturally have fired in a bolt (I sure wanted one, just then).

But alas, the decision was made whilst hanging on a rope, thus creating an artificial runout. So,... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 14, 2011

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Comments: Yeah, that was a totally sarcastic comment as we had just been through the awesome Contortionist debate. I still haven't done Martyr's Crown, so I can't say much about how the runouts feel to me. I did boulder up to the first bolt and back down-that was cool. If you think it needs more bolts, that's up to you.

Your values, when it comes to the mental aspect of scary routes, are much like my own. But climbing has become so diverse in that different segments of people have different poi... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : I Need a Batholith (5.10)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 13, 2011

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Comments: Hey, I did this route today and had a good time. I toproped it many years ago and decided against the work/expense. But clipping your bolts, I found it to be worthy.

I would add a bolt at the start, even though it's easy, just to mark the route. And I would add a bolt at the finish, if you want people to ever do the route. With all the lichen (get's wet), the rock will always be a little soft and dirty, so the it's likely that holds could break. Some pro is nice in that case. No comparison ... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Overview & Waterfall : Hysteria (5.12b)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 6, 2011

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Comments: It might be quite a bit harder than .12b.... 'Bout time for someone else to get on it? C'mon, man!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseud... (5.7+)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 12, 2011

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Comments: Before that, it was called Bush and Dirt Crack.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 29, 2010

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Comments: The route is not essentially a solo. Go do it with a rope, then go free solo it. Big difference. For real.




Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 11, 2010

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Comments: Some people would call that a SCREAMER. Must have been at least 40 or 50 feet.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 9, 2010

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Comments: I did overhear you talking about The Black Arete but didn't catch your intent. I thought maybe you were bolting something new near it or I would have said something. The tool comment was rhetorical and not directed at a specific person.

We all know you think this would be a contribution/improvement.

When you minimize the value of the East Animas Climbing Area, you display your vast inexperience. Perhaps when you gain another decade or two of climbing travel, you might learn to appreciate the... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: When I bolted The Kong Route, I avoided bolting where Kong joins The Black Arete for a short distance. Yesterday I noticed Tyler drilling uncomfortably close to where you get the thin gear on both routes, so the location of the evil retrobolts may also be an issue. Would it be possible to step up and clip the new bolt on Black Arete to protect the moves before the clip on Kong? That would be cause for more insults and threats. For real.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: I'm only interested in furthering my reputation as an opinionated azzole.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: Tim Kuss When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Aw c'mon, this is awesome!

I'll re-post this from the all time climbing guru Werner Braun:
Not all routes are meant to be safe or enjoyed by many people.

They are "there" whether one enjoys or not, if it's safe or not.

Routes have soul....

You can cover that soul, with ignorance, passion, and goodness.

And, ... you can come face to face with that soul when you transcend those 3 modes and come to pure goodness.

The best and most beautiful pearls lie in the deepest ocean.



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