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Member Since: Jun 14, 2009
Last Visit: Jun 15, 2016
Contact Tim Kuss

Point Rank: # 2,645
Total Points: 260
Last Year: 36
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tim Kuss been climbing?










Contributions


All 232 | Routes 10 | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 69 | Posts 37 | Stars 86 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Crime & Punishment (5.11a)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: The first bolt has become known as the "panty bolt", so named for the panties that were hung on it this winter in an apparent protest of its retro addition.

By the way, it protects the hardest move on the whole route which is either 11a or 10b if you're a sandbagger like Matt...!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Dune (5.11-)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: Try the "Hardman Variation" B-1. Really the direct start to Dune. Start on the initial hold of Sandman but make the giant reach left to the big pocket. Continue up on some sketchy holds, joining Dune at the 4th bolt. Or link into Sandman.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Sweeney's Special (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 7, 2010

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Comments: I suppose that if the route had been done in the modern era, it may have stopped at the ledge, but back in the day, it was cool to take a route as far as one could climb- especially if you could get to the top. But if the whole place was developed in the modern era, it would only be a bunch of sport routes, eh?


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 7, 2010

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Comments: Wow! It's totally respectable to see so many younger climbers who value this route in its boltless state. You guys an inspiration.

I think aid climbers would still find the route to be A1, bolt or no bolt. And, if we are going by "traditional values" here, no one should chop anything, (consensus or no) if the FA party returns to finish equipping their route. One can take any discussion to its extreme end, i.e; Republicans and Al Qaeda.

Really, Kevin! Way to keep grade inflation i... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: Copied from "East Animas" page:

By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
2 days ago

Anyone interested in East A ethical issues should check out the route Contortionist on this site. A lively debate about convenience and quality vs. traditional ideals.

By Brad Brandewie
2 days ago

Tim,
That's some clever phrasing, pairing "convenience and quality" as being the other side of the argument against "traditional ideals".

"Quality" is applicable to either side of the argument, depending on one's perspectiv... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: Brad, I agree. Ideals = quality. My own ideals straddle both sides, so I'm enjoying the debate in my own mind as well. As Skyeler said, I suffer from "cognitive dissonance".

Ian, I don't think a bolt would bring the "level" down but only the time spent getting the gear. Just like placing fixed anchors at the top of a route make it more convenient, but not more accessible.

Anyone can stand there for twenty minutes and fish in stoppers, then it's all about the (still really ... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 2, 2010

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Comments: Anyone interested in East A ethical issues should check out the route Contortionist on this site. A lively debate about convenience and quality vs. traditional ideals.

Now check out "The Black Arete" for a similar, more hysterical debate.


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : East Side : Flat Track (5.11)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: The 5.8 first pitch of this route is called Dirt Track. I mean to go back and add a bolt to Flat Track where there is a nasty fall potential after the third bolt.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Sweeney's Special (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: Climbing well is all about footwork, not wingspan. Sweeney's Special is typically done using both cracks. If you found poor quality on this route, you were probably off route.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: After the bolt goes in, we can talk about y'all's star ratings. Three stars really? I'd be willing to go to two stars with a bolt or a bolted on jug, perhaps two and a quarter with a bolt and a glued on foothold, but three stars in its current state? Man, that's pushing it. You can't give a route three stars, then call it choss. Such hypocrisy. Amusing though.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Three Open Books (5.9)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: Definitely not. I realize how that statement could be taken as hypocritical. The difference being the bolts placed by the first ascent party.Also, there is no "boldness factor" on the Contortionist.
See also: thread for Contortionist.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: Obviously, my attempt to reflect sarcasm with written words has fallen short as usual. I'm old and don't know how to use modicons and other texting tricks to express this. I would rarely support adding bolts to existing routes without FA consent. But I do suffer from cognitive dissonance just like most climbers who ponder such issues. Otherwise, I would have to onsight freesolo every time I went climbing, as it is my belief that this is the only legit way to climb.

This is just my opinion w... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 25, 2010

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Comments: Another advantage to adding a bolt at the crux is that it would encourage more climbing on the route that forks left from the crux (Leeper hangers). It's a good route that probably got one or two ascents back in the late 1980s.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Push-Me-Pull-You (5.10a)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 21, 2010

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Comments: They used to call it 5.9 when they did it in the 1970s in EBs. I think it's classic in an old school East A way.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 21, 2010

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Comments: OK, toproping is uncool at East A but totally cool at XRock, where one might be introduced to climbing on a toprope. You go to East A to lead Yo! I don't know, toproping at East A just seems (odd, out of character, atypical; not quite right, weirdo, nOOb), even if we all do it. Too much South Park. Funny, innocent way of speaking? This is totally off topic. Peace.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 17, 2010

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Comments: I would support installing a bolt at the crux of this route as well. As Kozak did, I have climbed the route ground- up (that's the way we used to do it), but rarely repeat it. Alas, while the gear is bomber, it is such a pain in the ass to place it for the one move of climbing which doesn't really fit, quality wise, with the rest of the route. If you could clip and blow through the one awkward move, the route would be a lot more fun. Punta Magna, on the other hand, is much easier to protect, t... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Three Open Books (5.9)
By: Tim Kuss When: Dec 3, 2009

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Comments: This is an old route, done in the '70s, with the gear of that era, and without the fixed gear that has been added. It was an excellent testpiece for those seeking some boldness at that grade. Now someone has F'd it with some lame, drilled angles. Way to go, pus!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Overview & Waterfall : Totally High Maintenance (5.11b)
By: Tim Kuss When: Jun 14, 2009

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Comments: This route goes through some of the softest looking rock in the area, but it offers excellent gymnastic movement and a nice steep angle with many pockets and huecos!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Overview & Waterfall : Hysteria (5.12b)
By: Tim Kuss When: Jun 14, 2009

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Comments: This route is among the best in the area.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Chingadero (5.12)
By: Tim Kuss When: Jun 14, 2009

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Comments: I put in this route in January, 2009. It has proven to be popular, especially for a hard-ish route at East A. Chingadero!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Birthday Crack (5.9)
By: Tim Kuss When: Jun 14, 2009

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Comments: I have recently revisited this route since doing the FA probably 25 years ago. This is some of the best crack climbing at East A- perfect hands with some bomber finger locks at the crux.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: indian creek rock conditionsSouthern Utah DesertsTim KussOct 22, 2015
re: indian creek rock conditionsSouthern Utah DesertsTim KussOct 22, 2015
re: Best grade IV & V 5.12s in North America?General ClimbingTim KussSep 3, 2015
re: SprintersGeneral ClimbingTim KussAug 17, 2015
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