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Member Since: Jun 14, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 1,906
Total Points: 294
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
27 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tim Kuss been climbing?










Contributions


All 200 | Routes 10 | Areas | Photos 28 | Page Improvments | Comments 53 | Posts 18 | Stars 81 | Ratings 10
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Durango : East Animas
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: Brad, I agree. Ideals = quality. My own ideals straddle both sides, so I'm enjoying the debate in my own mind as well. As Skyeler said, I suffer from "cognitive dissonance".

Ian, I don't think a bolt would bring the "level" down but only the time spent getting the gear. Just like placing fixed anchors at the top of a route make it more convenient, but not more accessible.

Anyone can stand there for twenty minutes and fish in stoppers, then it's all about the (still really ... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas
By: Tim Kuss When: Apr 2, 2010

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Comments: Anyone interested in East A ethical issues should check out the route Contortionist on this site. A lively debate about convenience and quality vs. traditional ideals.

Now check out "The Black Arete" for a similar, more hysterical debate.


Location: CO : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : East Side : Flat Track (5.11c)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: The 5.8 first pitch of this route is called Dirt Track. I mean to go back and add a bolt to Flat Track where there is a nasty fall potential after the third bolt.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Sweeney's Special (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: Climbing well is all about footwork, not wingspan. Sweeney's Special is typically done using both cracks. If you found poor quality on this route, you were probably off route.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: After the bolt goes in, we can talk about y'all's star ratings. Three stars really? I'd be willing to go to two stars with a bolt or a bolted on jug, perhaps two and a quarter with a bolt and a glued on foothold, but three stars in its current state? Man, that's pushing it. You can't give a route three stars, then call it choss. Such hypocrisy. Amusing though.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Three Open Books (5.9)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: Definitely not. I realize how that statement could be taken as hypocritical. The difference being the bolts placed by the first ascent party.Also, there is no "boldness factor" on the Contortionist.
See also: thread for Contortionist.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 31, 2010

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Comments: Obviously, my attempt to reflect sarcasm with written words has fallen short as usual. I'm old and don't know how to use modicons and other texting tricks to express this. I would rarely support adding bolts to existing routes without FA consent. But I do suffer from cognitive dissonance just like most climbers who ponder such issues. Otherwise, I would have to onsight freesolo every time I went climbing, as it is my belief that this is the only legit way to climb.

This is just my opinion w... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 25, 2010

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Comments: Another advantage to adding a bolt at the crux is that it would encourage more climbing on the route that forks left from the crux (Leeper hangers). It's a good route that probably got one or two ascents back in the late 1980s.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Push-Me-Pull-You (5.10a)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 21, 2010

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Comments: They used to call it 5.9 when they did it in the 1970s in EBs. I think it's classic in an old school East A way.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 21, 2010

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Comments: OK, toproping is uncool at East A but totally cool at XRock, where one might be introduced to climbing on a toprope. You go to East A to lead Yo! I don't know, toproping at East A just seems (odd, out of character, atypical; not quite right, weirdo, nOOb), even if we all do it. Too much South Park. Funny, innocent way of speaking? This is totally off topic. Peace.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: Tim Kuss When: Mar 17, 2010

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Comments: I would support installing a bolt at the crux of this route as well. As Kozak did, I have climbed the route ground- up (that's the way we used to do it), but rarely repeat it. Alas, while the gear is bomber, it is such a pain in the ass to place it for the one move of climbing which doesn't really fit, quality wise, with the rest of the route. If you could clip and blow through the one awkward move, the route would be a lot more fun. Punta Magna, on the other hand, is much easier to protect, t... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Jabba Buttress : Three Open Books (5.9)
By: Tim Kuss When: Dec 3, 2009

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Comments: This is an old route, done in the '70s, with the gear of that era, and without the fixed gear that has been added. It was an excellent testpiece for those seeking some boldness at that grade. Now someone has F'd it with some lame, drilled angles. Way to go, pus!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Overview & Waterfall : Totally High Maintenance (5.11b)
By: Tim Kuss When: Jun 14, 2009

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Comments: This route goes through some of the softest looking rock in the area, but it offers excellent gymnastic movement and a nice steep angle with many pockets and huecos!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Overview & Waterfall : Hysteria (5.12b)
By: Tim Kuss When: Jun 14, 2009

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Comments: This route is among the best in the area.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Chingadero (5.12)
By: Tim Kuss When: Jun 14, 2009

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Comments: I put in this route in January, 2009. It has proven to be popular, especially for a hard-ish route at East A. Chingadero!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Birthday Crack (5.9)
By: Tim Kuss When: Jun 14, 2009

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Comments: I have recently revisited this route since doing the FA probably 25 years ago. This is some of the best crack climbing at East A- perfect hands with some bomber finger locks at the crux.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
DURANGO PHOTO SESSIONSColorado / Rockies PartnersTim KussMay 26, 2014
re: Will Alex Honnold be the first Free Soloist to die on film?General ClimbingTim KussJul 19, 2012
re: Will Alex Honnold be the first Free Soloist to die on film?General ClimbingTim KussJul 18, 2012
re: why EVERYONE who climbs should ALWAYS wear a helmetGeneral ClimbingTim KussJul 15, 2012
re: The Houlding-Pickles game changer.General ClimbingTim KussJul 15, 2012
re: No Hands GriGriGeneral ClimbingTim KussJul 4, 2011
re: Sport vs Trad AnalogyGeneral ClimbingTim KussMay 11, 2011
re: What's your favorite thing about climbing rocks.General ClimbingTim KussJul 14, 2010
re: Lead Belaying with grigriClimbing Gear DiscussionTim KussJun 22, 2010
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