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Rock Climbing Photo: Crux time!  Photo by Nick S.


Member Since: May 27, 2009
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Tim H.
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Total Points: 1,450
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Last 30 Days: 26
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1350 | Routes 34 | Areas | Photos 200 | Page Improvements | Comments 110 | Posts 53 | Stars 538 | Ratings 415
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Epitaph (5.9+)
By: Tim H. When: 4 days ago

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Comments: GPS location for the base is 34*52'46.9"N / 111*43'37.5"W


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area
By: Tim H. When: Jan 26, 2016

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Comments: You can see the updated road closure's here:

Current Red Rock District Road Status


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area
By: Tim H. When: Jan 25, 2016

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Comments: Road Closure Alert - Schnebly Hill Road is currently closed b/c of unsafe road conditions. You'll have to park at the main entrance trail head about a mile from the Y off 179. It only added about 25 mins of hiking to get to the pull-out for Wild Wild West, and other routes in that area.

Not sure how long or often it gets closed, but seemed to be just b/c of some snowy and muddy sections that would rut out the road - so maybe it's just short term and temporary.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Epitaph (5.9+)
By: Tim H. When: Jan 19, 2016

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Comments: Has anyone rapped this with a single 70m from the top of pitch 3 or does it require double rope raps? Sounds like it may be possible with stretch with 1 70m from the lengths Darren listed above..?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Mounds (5.10- X)
By: Tim H. When: Jan 19, 2016

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Comments: Another vote to just chop it - Fun moves, but those blocks you pull on are pretty large and super chossy. Someone is going to pull them and a belayer and/or others nearby are going to get it bad. The mortared block wasn't really very inspiring either.

Other than this route - I really enjoyed the climbing and very thankful to the efforts the FA's put in to make this a great roadside crag!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Time Share (5.12a)
By: Tim H. When: Jan 12, 2016

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Comments: I agree with Hugo- felt more like a technical Phoenix granite route than a Queen Creek pocket fest, which was a nice change of pace for the area.

Really fun movement, but unfortunately pretty poor rock in the upper section. Aside from the little flakes and edges coming off, the big thank-god jug right after the crux sounds really hollow. It's a pretty good size, so I'd be weary yarding on it.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Barks Canyon Wall : The Long Lead (5.8)
By: Tim H. When: Nov 30, 2015

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Comments: There are new bolts and chains about 15' to the right of the old pitch 2 anchor(2 old bolts and a drilled piton). I mention it because it can be hard to spot when you get to the ledge since it's slightly around the corner. Thankfully you don't have to use those scary looking anchors anymore.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Zonerland : Photo
By: Tim H. When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: This is one hell of an inspiring photo! RIP


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Oak Creek Canyon : *The Waterfall : *The Right Wall : American Caesar (5.12-)
By: Tim H. When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: Man this thing is SO good! I was happy to have the red ballnut considering I took some whips on it. But I could see getting by without if you aren't quite at your limit. You do have some other bomber gear just below your feet as you pull the crux moves.

It was a bit lower on the route, through some 5.11 stemming a ways above your last piece, that had me sweating more than the crux!

Such a fun route, can't wait to get back on it!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Crack Lover's Variation (5.9)
By: Tim H. When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Has anyone linked pitch 1 and 2?

It's been awhile and can't remember the pitch lengths' well.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Angel's Fright (5.5)
By: Tim H. When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: Pretty delayed on answering your question K-Tanz, but the tree you described was about even with where I ended up belaying for pitch 1. I didn't use that tree b/c it looked like a more uncomfortable belay spot than the ledge just to the right(which also has a tree with a few horizontal cracks nearby).


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : High Exposure Exit (5.6)
By: Tim H. When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: Ya, it's really just a last pitch to get you to the top. You can take HEE or Beaver Cleaver(5.8+) for your final pitch up. Alternatively, you can get to the Coke Bottle Raps after a little bit of easy scrambling from the top of the Flying Buttress to the south if you donn't want to do HE or BC for any reason.

Quite a few routes will get you there, but the most common is likely the Classic.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12) : Photo
By: Tim H. When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: I think he was referring to the shoes, not the person.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Arch Enemy (5.11+)
By: Tim H. When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: Right at the crux on P4 there was a pretty sizable plate/flake(25" x 15"?) that was almost completely detached from the wall. Was this something new?

My partner led up to it, knew it was coming off if he bumped it, so he aided through the crux ensuring he wouldn't send it off flying directly at the belay(and me!).

I followed up and cleaned maybe 25 lbs off by simply tapping it with my food a handful of times. It all went straight down at the P3 belay(yikes!).

I'm just curious if this... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Touched By An Angel (5.10)
By: Tim H. When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: What a crazy fun route! Hell of a job fellas!

The exposure right off the base belay was great and that potato chip flare was wildly fun. Then some fun(read: kind of awkward) OW above to the chains made for a great long pitch.

Pitch 2 had some so-so rock, but it is significantly easier so it was still lots of fun. The spin move in the vortex was super cool! Plus that ledge on the top of pitch 2 is amazing! We unroped and hung out for a long time, enjoying the view and watching the Helo's... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Trundler's Club (5.11-)
By: Tim H. When: Mar 8, 2015

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Comments: Lots of good info above. We found having 2 #4's to be nice.

Remember to protect the follower on the 4th pitch after the first bolt. There's a good spot for a #1 C4 just after the crux. If you don't and the follower blows the crux, they will swing out into space and will likely have to jug up a ways.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Cactus Flower East
By: Tim H. When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: This is my favorite wall in the Phoenix area to Top-rope solo.

The climbs are short- but the proximity to Phoenix, the short hike, the easy access to the top, and the many bolted anchors make it really easy to do all 18-20 climbs in this area in just an hour or two.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE)
By: Tim H. When: Dec 31, 2014

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Comments: Has anyone taken the back road out to LDE recently and know the condition of the road?

We have a Subaru and thinking about checking the way out.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Tom's Thumb
By: Tim H. When: Dec 25, 2014

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Comments: It looked like the North-west side anchors(sort of above Deep Freeze) were missing their hangers on 12/23/14. I'll make sure to bring some next time I'm up there.

The South East side still has the rap anchor(the chains are looking rusty, however) that will get you down with 1 rap with a 70m rope no problem.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon
By: Tim H. When: Dec 22, 2014

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Comments: Just back there this weekend and the road is in great shape!

We made it back in an Outback without any issues but definitely need the AWD.. There is one section on the switchbacks that's a so-so, but the rest of the road was no sweat.

To the closed road issue above: when you get to the Y in the road a ways back- the left route has a closed to public sign, but the correct road to LDC takes the road on the right.

Enjoy this area while you can!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Right ... : Turning Tricks (5.11a)
By: Tim H. When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: Really fun route!

We saw the traversing seam chalked up and thought it looked cool, so we hopped on it. Balancy start up thin moves, to a really fun traverse, and some sweet arete moves.

For us shorter folks, it's a pretty committing reach the arete before clipping the bolt. But a bomber cam in the seam near the beginning of the traverse makes you feel nice and happy making that move(which was the crux for me).

Thanks for the add to the area!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland North : North Wonderland Approach : ... : Pops Goes Hawaiian (5.7 R)
By: Tim H. When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: Fun route and really mellow.

However, that bolt could use a little love if anyone goes out there and has the time. It's sticking out about an inch and slightly bent downwards currently.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Watch Crystal Crack (5.10d)
By: Tim H. When: Jul 21, 2014

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Comments: Can you lower with a 70m from the anchors? I see some conflicting info on the route length in the description and some of the comments.

Thanks!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Flatiron : Field of Dreams (5.10c/d)
By: Tim H. When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: Definitely a classic climb with a great position on the Flatiron! Everything about the climb was super fun. All pitches have a bunch of bolts, but none are entirely bolted.

I felt like pitch 1 was the crux for me with some really wide stemming through 2 different sections, protected nicely(maybe just hard because it was the first pitch after the hike in).

As mentioned linking 2&3 should be done as you barely need to place gear on pitch 2.

Pitch 3 is a breeze and another awesome stemming... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Kingpin (5.10 PG13)
By: Tim H. When: Oct 25, 2013

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Comments: Does anyone know if there are 1 or 2 bolts at the belay on top of pitch 3 and what kind of shape they are in?


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