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Rock Climbing Photo: Crux time!  Photo by Nick S.


Member Since: May 27, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Tim H.
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Total Points: 1,508
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Tim H. been climbing?










Contributions


All 1413 | Routes 34 | Areas | Photos 210 | Page Improvements | Comments 118 | Posts 50 | Stars 563 | Ratings 438
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9)
By: Tim H. When: Apr 1, 2016

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Comments: Has anyone done the descent with a 70m or an 80m?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Exacerbator (5.11a)
By: Tim H. When: Mar 14, 2016

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Comments: Fun route! Reminded me a bit of the Elephant Trunk pitch on Epinephrine. Although, slightly dirty since I don't think it sees many ascents.

Mostly 5.8 climbing with what I thought was a 5.10 crux. I could definitely see it feeling harder since the crux pro was thin. I nested a bomber .2 X4 and a #2 DMM Peanut about 10' above the piton. Crux is over in about 12' and you get a great #1 C4.

Even if it was 5.10, I wouldn't put a leader that isn't pretty good at find... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Lichenometry (5.11c)
By: Tim H. When: Mar 14, 2016

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Comments: This is actually to the climbers left of Stellar Arete. Guidebook and description here are correct, but the order under the sorted section on this site is wrong.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Exacerbator (5.11a)
By: Tim H. When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments: Haven't been over to this side much. Is it possible to get down with a 70m? Maybe with some shenanigan's(ex. getting to another climbs anchor, down climbing easy terrain, etc.)?


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : Flying Buttress
By: Tim H. When: Mar 2, 2016

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Comments: Sweet, thanks for the info Jeff! Yeah - there were 2 new bolts in the upper section and a 2 bolt anchor just above that.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : Flying Buttress
By: Tim H. When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: Does anyone know what the route just to the left of Technicolor Corner is? They would likely share the same first pitch. It looked rad!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : It's a Breeze (5.11- PG13)
By: Tim H. When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: Pitch 1 was really fun climbing! I thought mid 5.10ish. More .75 size than fingers, but fun movement. Didn't do pitch 2 since pretty much everyone said it sucks, but with the anchor bolts on top of P1 it makes this a nice quick bonus if in the area.

My rack for the onsight of pitch 1 would be 2x .3-1 | 3x .5-.75 plus a 0 C3 for the first 12 feet.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Technicolor Corner (5.10 R)
By: Tim H. When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: Wow pitch 2 was a beaut!

You can rap from the pitch 2 anchors to the ground with a 70m rope with just inches left. There is an opportunity to down climb an easy 8' dirt clod if you ended up a few feet short.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Oak Creek Spire Area : ... : Poquito Bandito (5.11+)
By: Tim H. When: Feb 8, 2016

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Comments: Fun route! Man, that tips section is really hard! Didn't get it clean - so can't officially rate it, but felt a lot harder than 11+!

Upper bolted section was rad too! Although the medium sized block right before moving over the to the 3rd bolt on the arete seemed a bit loose.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Epitaph (5.10a)
By: Tim H. When: Feb 1, 2016

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Comments: Awesome first 2 pitches! As mentioned, they can be linked with about 20' to spare with a 70m rope. This makes for an amazing long pitch! Just save the 3's and up for the upper stuff! The 3rd pitch roof was really cool(and tough!), but the rock quality deteriorates really badly for the 10' before pulling the corner. Save a few pieces(.3-1) for last 35' after pulling the roof. The climbing eases, but there's still a ways to go to the anchor.

Can NOT rap with a single 70m. The first rap w... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area
By: Tim H. When: Jan 26, 2016

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Comments: You can see the updated road closure's here:

Current Red Rock District Road Status


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Epitaph (5.10a)
By: Tim H. When: Jan 19, 2016

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Comments: Has anyone rapped this with a single 70m from the top of pitch 3 or does it require double rope raps? Sounds like it may be possible with stretch with 1 70m from the lengths Darren listed above..?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Mounds (5.10- X)
By: Tim H. When: Jan 19, 2016

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Comments: Another vote to just chop it - Fun moves, but those blocks you pull on are pretty large and super chossy. Someone is going to pull them and a belayer and/or others nearby are going to get it bad. The mortared block wasn't really very inspiring either.

Other than this route - I really enjoyed the climbing and very thankful to the efforts the FA's put in to make this a great roadside crag!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Time Share (5.12-)
By: Tim H. When: Jan 12, 2016

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Comments: I agree with Hugo- felt more like a technical Phoenix granite route than a Queen Creek pocket fest, which was a nice change of pace for the area.

Really fun movement, but unfortunately pretty poor rock in the upper section. Aside from the little flakes and edges coming off, the big thank-god jug right after the crux sounds really hollow. It's a pretty good size, so I'd be weary yarding on it.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Barks Canyon Wall : The Long Lead (5.8)
By: Tim H. When: Nov 30, 2015

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Comments: There are new bolts and chains about 15' to the right of the old pitch 2 anchor(2 old bolts and a drilled piton). I mention it because it can be hard to spot when you get to the ledge since it's slightly around the corner. Thankfully you don't have to use those scary looking anchors anymore.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Zonerland : Photo
By: Tim H. When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: This is one hell of an inspiring photo! RIP


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Oak Creek Canyon : *The Waterfall : *The Right Wall : American Caesar (5.12-)
By: Tim H. When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: Man this thing is SO good! I was happy to have the red ballnut considering I took some whips on it. But I could see getting by without if you aren't quite at your limit. You do have some other bomber gear just below your feet as you pull the crux moves.

It was a bit lower on the route, through some 5.11 stemming a ways above your last piece, that had me sweating more than the crux!

Such a fun route, can't wait to get back on it!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Crack Lover's Variation (5.9)
By: Tim H. When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: Has anyone linked pitch 1 and 2?

It's been awhile and can't remember the pitch lengths' well.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Angel's Fright (5.6)
By: Tim H. When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: Pretty delayed on answering your question K-Tanz, but the tree you described was about even with where I ended up belaying for pitch 1. I didn't use that tree b/c it looked like a more uncomfortable belay spot than the ledge just to the right(which also has a tree with a few horizontal cracks nearby).


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : High Exposure Exit (5.6)
By: Tim H. When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: Ya, it's really just a last pitch to get you to the top. You can take HEE or Beaver Cleaver(5.8+) for your final pitch up. Alternatively, you can get to the Coke Bottle Raps after a little bit of easy scrambling from the top of the Flying Buttress to the south if you donn't want to do HE or BC for any reason.

Quite a few routes will get you there, but the most common is likely the Classic.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : The Original Route (5.12-) : Photo
By: Tim H. When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: I think he was referring to the shoes, not the person.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Arch Enemy (5.11+)
By: Tim H. When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: Right at the crux on P4 there was a pretty sizable plate/flake(25" x 15"?) that was almost completely detached from the wall. Was this something new?

My partner led up to it, knew it was coming off if he bumped it, so he aided through the crux ensuring he wouldn't send it off flying directly at the belay(and me!).

I followed up and cleaned maybe 25 lbs off by simply tapping it with my food a handful of times. It all went straight down at the P3 belay(yikes!).

I'm just curious if this... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Touched By An Angel (5.10)
By: Tim H. When: Mar 24, 2015

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Comments: What a crazy fun route! Hell of a job fellas!

The exposure right off the base belay was great and that potato chip flare was wildly fun. Then some fun(read: kind of awkward) OW above to the chains made for a great long pitch.

Pitch 2 had some so-so rock, but it is significantly easier so it was still lots of fun. The spin move in the vortex was super cool! Plus that ledge on the top of pitch 2 is amazing! We unroped and hung out for a long time, enjoying the view and watching the Helo's... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Trundler's Club (5.11-)
By: Tim H. When: Mar 8, 2015

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Comments: Lots of good info above. We found having 2 #4's to be nice.

Remember to protect the follower on the 4th pitch after the first bolt. There's a good spot for a #1 C4 just after the crux. If you don't and the follower blows the crux, they will swing out into space and will likely have to jug up a ways.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Cactus Flower East
By: Tim H. When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: This is my favorite wall in the Phoenix area to Top-rope solo.

The climbs are short- but the proximity to Phoenix, the short hike, the easy access to the top, and the many bolted anchors make it really easy to do all 18-20 climbs in this area in just an hour or two.


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