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Rock Climbing Photo: high on ballista


Member Since: May 22, 2012
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Tom Gnyra
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Total Points: 4,635
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1169 | Routes 368 | Areas 42 | Photos 57 | Page Improvements | Comments 40 | Posts 16 | Stars 624 | Ratings 22
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Yamnuska : ... : Red Shirt (5.8+)
By: Tom Gnyra When: Oct 23, 2015

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Comments: Great route. Rack was good with a single .3-.5, doubled up in .75 to 3, lots of draws to clip bolts and gear.

Generally only got lost once while on the variation to the 5th pitch. Easy 5th gets you back to the belay.


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Yamnuska : ... : Smeagol (5.9+)
By: Tom Gnyra When: Oct 14, 2015

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Comments: I changed the PG13 rating to nothing as isn't really relevant. General yam rules apply, if this gets a PG13 then so should Kahl or Directissima. In fact i felt pretty safe with most of the climbing.

This is a good route. very good if you only count the third pitch and most of the second pitch.

Rack: bring big chocks, .3-.5 single and then .75-3 double with up to #5 if you are confident with leading wide. Third and second pitch are wide but protectable.


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff National Park : Mt. Rundle : ... : Rundlehorn (5.5)
By: Tom Gnyra When: Sep 12, 2015

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Comments: Was on it today. Great fun and enjoyable. The first half, however, is marred by occasional choss and 3rd/4th class moves.

HOWEVER, for the grade, the second half is worth doing.


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff National Park : Mount Edith : ... : Photo
By: Tom Gnyra When: Sep 11, 2015

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Comments: dave thomson was a beast!


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Grassi Lakes
By: Tom Gnyra When: Sep 10, 2015

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Comments: __̴ı̴̴̡̡̡ ̡͌l̡̡̡ ̡͌l̡*̡̡ ̴̡ı̴̴&#... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Echo Canyon : ... : Photo
By: Tom Gnyra When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: you can thank the guys at TABVAR!


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Grassi Lakes : ... : Real Good Time (5.10a)
By: Tom Gnyra When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: i think this is technically on road house wall but i think it should be here too.


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Cougar Canyon (Creek) : ... : Danse Macabre (5.11c)
By: Tom Gnyra When: Aug 27, 2015

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Comments: you could always split the difference between the grades! i'll climb it (again i think?) and will post my idea


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff National Park : Lake Louise : ... : Exquisite Corpse (5.9)
By: Tom Gnyra When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: I think this more in the air voyage sector as it is down the hill. I

it is a fun splitter finger crack that splits the wall.


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff National Park : Mt. Cory : ... : Photo
By: Tom Gnyra When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: every time i see the thumbnail i think this dude is naked as hell and i lose it!!


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Grassi Lakes : ... : Hole in One (5.7)
By: Tom Gnyra When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: second route to the right is named Birdie and is a 5.6. this is the thirs route


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Banff National Park : Mt. Cory : ... : Aftonroe (5.7)
By: Tom Gnyra When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: This isn't actually on guide's rock but on take it for granite area as per the guidebook, but if it stays here i will add routes i have done on this wall.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : El Capitan : Ping Ridge (5.7 R)
By: Tom Gnyra When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: just freeing new routes on the road trip. NBD


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Cougar Canyon (Creek) : ... : Photo
By: Tom Gnyra When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: #10 = the prestige, Hau 2014


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : Cougar Canyon (Creek) : ... : Photo
By: Tom Gnyra When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: note: no longer has "many trees" at the base"


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Left Fork : The Pipeline : The Angry Inch (5.11c)
By: Tom Gnyra When: Aug 15, 2015

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Comments: compare this to excavation at the minimum and you don't really have a comparison on quality and grade. I didn't really like many lines at Pipeline and this may be the 'best' one.

Both excavation and angry inch are "classic 11c" climbs but the minimum is good climbing and this climb seems to be like you did a crux and clip the chains as it's over in a minute. I agree with 60 ft being generous and it being about 45 ft. Otherwise you have a really tall and somewhat consistant V0/V1. If you can ov... more >>


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral
By: Tom Gnyra When: Aug 5, 2015

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Comments: A couple of forgetful Canadians here: we may have forgot a pair of black yoga pants at the last site before the end of OK corral. If you find them and would not mind mailing them to a US or Canadian address we will pay shipping. We are already in Jackson and cannot turn back really due to time constraints. If it has been eaten by a bear already I hope the bear enjoys it.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris
By: Tom Gnyra When: Aug 5, 2015

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Comments: A couple of forgetful Canadians here: we may have forgot a pair of black yoga pants at the last site before the end of OK corral. If you find them and would not mind mailing them to a US or Canadian address we will pay shipping. We are already in Jackson and cannot turn back really due to time constraints. If it has been eaten by a bear already I hope the bear enjoys it.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edwards' Crack (5.7)
By: Tom Gnyra When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Simply beautiful. Single rack to #3 Camalot is fine for even the top. Lots of chocks.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Left Side (Tribal War, Poke... : Tribal War (5.11b)
By: Tom Gnyra When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: super quality rock. top is easy for the grade but the whole route is hard. feels harder than Hanoi Hilton at ten sleep.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : ... : Photo
By: Tom Gnyra When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: wrong. This is an open project


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Oblivion Roof : Killer Karma (5.11d)
By: Tom Gnyra When: Jul 14, 2015

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Comments: Short roof, 1 star at the red but 5 at ten sleep


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Tom Gnyra When: Jul 11, 2015

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Comments: Things that we are learning from ten sleep:

1. we wish we knew the order of the cliffs at Valhalla, FCR and Mondo (umbrella areas that are not well sorted on MP). This could be done in MP which would be great for visiting climbers. Obviously the new book will solve this issue. Or if MP sorts the crags better.

Slavery approach obviously leads to slavery wall and near is left towards world domination/Antarctica/metropolis and right towards dreamland/chaos.

Gate approach goes to FCR and Valhall... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : East Side : Aries Butte : Led by Sheep (5.7)
By: Tom Gnyra When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: Good climbing with some long distance between bolts. For the 5.6 leader i would consider doing this carefully as a fall would be bad. Generally cruxes aren't too far from bolts but this can be sandy.

for the 5.9 leader this is not a PG13 climb as you should feel solid on everything. But don't try falling.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : Hard Rock : Teeanova (5.12a)
By: Tom Gnyra When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: Good route. Dogged it a bit today to figure out the moves (first go, may not have time to try it again on this trip).

This is a rope eater though. I fell multiple times on the 2nd crux (worsening pockets to a sharp 2 finger and around a groove). Don't think i got it bang on for that but my rope has 2 meters less due to drag, core was showing. Was using long draws. Any advice?


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