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Member Since: Feb 6, 2012
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,377
Total Points: 199
Last Year: 65
Last 30 Days: 14
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has the schmuck been climbing?










Contributions


All 587 | Routes 12 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 79 | Posts 293 | Stars 144 | Ratings 59
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Pocket Change (5.11d PG13)
By: the schmuck When: 3 days ago

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Comments: This is a pile! Looks great, but there is nothing pleasant or fun about this route. It is not anywhere near 11+ either. Bailed on last bolt in exasperation.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Solar Flex (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: Much harder crux than its neighbor. Using the rest to the right leaves you a bit marooned. A harder send than Arnold Arnold.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : OK Corral : Right Side : Rooster Cogburn (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Middle crux is pretty thin with bad feet. I can see 12- on this section alone. Bottom and top cruxes are quite simple in comparison. Quality route!


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mondo Beyondo : Cody Night Rodeo (and the B... : Cowgirls Smuggling Yo-Yo's (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: It has cleaned up, and is quite fun. It is still sharp however, and anchors are Metolius rap bolts :-(.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : The Anvil (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: Aug 21, 2016

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Comments: This is probably the worst route at Fire wall. It is awkward and chossy, and probably harder than most, or all of the 11s on the wall. I gave it a second star only because the wife kind of liked it, and it is well bolted.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Toast (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Thought the slab between bolts 2 and 3 was the crux. Really fun route.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Fire Walker (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 23, 2016

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Comments: Never hard, but pretty sustained. Very fun.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : The Egg (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 23, 2016

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Comments: Not as sustained as its neighbor, but has a nice crux. Fun.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Reignite (5.11+)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 23, 2016

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Comments: The start is rotten, but the route is fantastic.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Still Smokin (5.10d)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 23, 2016

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Comments: The rock quality is a little flaky, and the nature of the climbing is cryptic, but the climbing is steep and fun. Worth doing.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Fiyo (5.11+)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: Very bouldery crux off the ground goes to easy climbing, and is followed by easier cruxes through couple more bulges, interspersed by more very easy climbing. Not very sustained, a little sandy, and not as fun as other routes on this wall.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Bloody Turnip (5.10c)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: The crux on this thing is pretty much rotten choss. Scary to think that it has "cleaned up." At least it is very generously bolted.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Low Standard Cave : Nipple Stud (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Fun for being so short. Hard, thin start, to a gymnastic but easier finish.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Minimum Crag : Afterglow (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Really fun route with a bit of a thin crux. Fair bit harder than the other 11+'s at Minimum.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : BYOB (5.12c)
By: the schmuck When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: Clipping the last bolt seems to be THE crux for me. Fun.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Tornado Alley : Unknown aka Left of Black S... (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: This is much more fun than it looks. It is also more sustained than "Spidergrind," but with an easier crux.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Tornado Alley : Spidergrind (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Brief crux through the middle bulge that shorter climbers can crimp through without it being too reachy. The rest of the route is a fun, low to mid 10.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Solstice Cave : Hot Tamale (5.10b)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Bolting is a little funky, and I wasn't enamored with the caving hangers for the anchor. The whole thing feels like it was bolted on a budget, but it climbs very nicely.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Solstice Cave : Scorcher (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Truly a one move wonder with a very long deadpoint. Pretty fun.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Fossil Wall : 3 Feet From An Orgy - a.k.... (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: 11d does not feel completely unreasonable, but this felt harder than any other 12a or 11d I've been on at LCC. Very fun route that stays on you for the first four bolts.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Paleolithic Tool Traditions (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: Good route, but the meat of it is kind of short. Still, it throws really thin and long moves at you, and if you think it is as hard or easier than the routes to the right, you are out of your mind. Those went down second go, but not even close on linking this one.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Mighty Mouse (5.10c)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Short, sharp, and unpleasant. However, at 5'6, I did not find anything reachy about the top, which was the easiest and most obvious section.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Ice Cream Hangover (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Very good movement on not so good rock. The hardware is suspect, and the left anchor bolt and hardware are horrifying (the right anchor is a strange glue-in that looks to be in good shape).


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Stormy Weather (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: The start on this is pretty hard, very thin, and not anywhere in the neighborhood of 11a or 11 anything for that matter. Saving grace is the weird but engaging roof.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Plate Tectonics (5.10c)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Not a great route, but not an awful route either. This is a good warmup for the harder stuff to the right. It is cleaning up and is worth doing.


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