Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community


Member Since: Feb 6, 2012
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact the schmuck

Point Rank: # 3,765
Total Points: 150
Last Year: 33
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has the schmuck been climbing?










Contributions


All 418 | Routes 10 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 50 | Posts 229 | Stars 97 | Ratings 32
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Hell Raiser (5.10a)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Hell Raiser starts to the right and on same ledge as "Little Boys." Finishes under a small roof.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Take The Skinheads Bowling (5.11c/d)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Very nice and pumpy, short route on bullet rock.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Little Boys With Power Toys (5.10a)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Two bolts and anchors. Start on an obvious ledge, and it has a hard for grade, thin, one move crux in the middle. The rest is a hike.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Bald Headed Neocons (5.10c/d)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Good route, but last bolt is quite silly. You pass a good stance, clip off of bad crimps and feet, and then need to be careful to not "z" clip the anchors.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Misalignment (5.10+)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Going straight up is really the natural line (as opposed to going left). Fun route.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Renaissance/ Lower Rosie (5.10b)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 2, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Climbs very nicely, but last bolt to anchors is a severe sandbag, as it climbs a tips crack with no feet. The anchor clip stance is also not comfy, and clips off of a strenuous gaston. However, one can yard off of last draw and clip the anchors.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Drugs and Sex : Face Melter Roof (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Outstanding, but I found this a little tougher to flash/onsight than cocaine rodeo. The top is thin, and kind of tough to read.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Spawn of Provo (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Actually thought that this was a little harder than Dr. Goodkind.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Low Standard Cave : Sodomizing Satan (5.11c/d)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: It is called 11d, because the last move is like v5. The crimps are ridiculous, and the throw is super long, especially if short.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Kindling (5.10a)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 14, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Good warm up. Wanders a little, but fun and worth doing.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Cactus Rose (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: VERY good route, but there is no way that the top bulge is 11c (felt like very painful V4 by itself, after resting on bolt).


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : Tweedle Dum (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: May 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty fun. Flows well, and may be a little on the soft side.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : Now and Zen (5.10c/d)
By: the schmuck When: May 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Not so great. Has some rotten rock, little flow, and probably a little harder than its neighbor to the right.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Graceland (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: May 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Not 11c. Probably 11d if tall and 12a if short. Has a short, reachy, and very powerful crux.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Trundle (5.10a/b PG13)
By: the schmuck When: May 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I think it somewhat cleaned up, as I did not find much choss. Climbs well, but the last two bolt placements make no sense.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Vault : Pubic Zirconium (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Apr 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I really like this thing, and the crux is actually pretty solid. It is hard from the last horizontal all the way to anchors. Not exactly the one move wonder that it has a reputation as.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Fish Wall : Soluble Fish (5.11b/c)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 23, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Nice route on good rock. 11- slab to an easy band, to a fairly hard roof crux. There is a completely pointless last bolt.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : No Future for the Timid (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 23, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Wow, sustained at 11a, eh? Thought it was harder than most of the 12a's I've been on at Shelf. It is a really nice route though.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Bashart (5.12c)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Really good. Sustained in difficulty with some rests, but never super hard for the grade.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Unknown 2 (5.10a)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Does have some fun climbing on it...and some choss. Last bolt to anchors felt pretty stout, but going left off of the bolt line kept things at grade.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : North Wall : Unknown 3 (5.10b)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Greasy, awkward, and not fun.


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Piedra Parada
By: the schmuck When: Feb 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Excellent updated guidebook is available in any climbing shop in Bariloche. May be available in Esquel also, and Mario has one that can be borrowed. Place is getting popular. Contrary to the post above, there is a well appointed gas station in Gualjaina, as well as a grocery store that sells a limited selection of vegetables and dairy, as well as a good selection of non-perishables. On the same street you will also find a panaderia, a carniceria and a vegetable store. Do not go shopping dur... more >>


Location: AR : Mount Magazine State Park : Crag Central : Right to Flight/ The Nose (5.9)
By: the schmuck When: Dec 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This protects like a sport route. Manage rope drag before pulling roof, and you will be fine. Unique and fun, but not super classic.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : Return of the Headhunters (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: Dec 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This rig deserves at least 3 stars. Very nice .10 climbing with a hard 11b crux between the 3rd and 4th bolts, I believe.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Wall of Confusion : Sudden Impact (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Dec 1, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: This one is really fun and worth doing. It is not nearly as sharp as Desert Pickle, but a bit steeper and more physical. Be careful going to the second bolt as the climbing is a little insecure, and there is no good stance to clip from until your right hand is on a good flat edge up and right of it. If you pitch going for that edge, you could deck without an attentive belay.


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!