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Member Since: Feb 6, 2012
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 3,632
Total Points: 164
Last Year: 39
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has the schmuck been climbing?










Contributions


All 498 | Routes 10 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 64 | Posts 261 | Stars 119 | Ratings 44
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Tornado Alley : Unknown aka Left of Black S... (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: This is much more fun than it looks. It is also more sustained than "Spidergrind," but with an easier crux.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Tornado Alley : Spidergrind (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Brief crux through the middle bulge that shorter climbers can crimp through without it being too reachy. The rest of the route is a fun, low to mid 10.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Solstice Cave : Hot Tamale (5.10b)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Bolting is a little funky, and I wasn't enamored with the caving hangers for the anchor. The whole thing feels like it was bolted on a budget, but it climbs very nicely.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Solstice Cave : Scorcher (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Truly a one move wonder with a very long deadpoint. Pretty fun.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Fossil Wall : 3 Feet From An Orgy - a.k.... (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: 11d does not feel completely unreasonable, but this felt harder than any other 12a or 11d I've been on at LCC. Very fun route that stays on you for the first four bolts.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Paleolithic Tool Traditions (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: Good route, but the meat of it is kind of short. Still, it throws really thin and long moves at you, and if you think it is as hard or easier than the routes to the right, you are out of your mind. Those went down second go, but not even close on linking this one.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Mighty Mouse (5.10c)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Short, sharp, and unpleasant. However, at 5'6, I did not find anything reachy about the top, which was the easiest and most obvious section.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Ice Cream Hangover (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Very good movement on not so good rock. The hardware is suspect, and the left anchor bolt and hardware are horrifying (the right anchor is a strange glue-in that looks to be in good shape).


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Stormy Weather (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: The start on this is pretty hard, very thin, and not anywhere in the neighborhood of 11a or 11 anything for that matter. Saving grace is the weird but engaging roof.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Plate Tectonics (5.10c)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Not a great route, but not an awful route either. This is a good warmup for the harder stuff to the right. It is cleaning up and is worth doing.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Crab Nation (5.10-)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 25, 2016

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Comments: Really not a bad route and a good warm-up.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Spontaneous Combustion (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: Super nice route with one star deduction for weird clip stances on the headwall.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Trailer Park Logic (5.10b)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: This is actually pretty fun and a good warmup. There is a slightly solid crux transitioning from the left face over the bulge to the upper crack. Climbs better than it looks.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Pick Pocket (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: Solid V4 over bulge to big left move above last bolt, equals 12-. At 5'6", I thought that this was way harder than "Lats" or any of the other 11d's mentioned. Quality.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Hell Raiser (5.10a)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Hell Raiser starts to the right and on same ledge as "Little Boys." Finishes under a small roof.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Take The Skinheads Bowling (5.11c/d)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Very nice and pumpy, short route on bullet rock.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Little Boys With Power Toys (5.10a)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Two bolts and anchors. Start on an obvious ledge, and it has a hard for grade, thin, one move crux in the middle. The rest is a hike.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Bald Headed Neocons (5.10c/d)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Good route, but last bolt is quite silly. You pass a good stance, clip off of bad crimps and feet, and then need to be careful to not "z" clip the anchors.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Misalignment (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Going straight up is really the natural line (as opposed to going left). Fun route.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Renaissance/ Lower Rosie (5.10-)
By: the schmuck When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Climbs very nicely, but last bolt to anchors is a severe sandbag, as it climbs a tips crack with no feet. The anchor clip stance is also not comfy, and clips off of a strenuous gaston. However, one can yard off of last draw and clip the anchors.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Drugs and Sex : Face Melter Roof (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Outstanding, but I found this a little tougher to flash/onsight than cocaine rodeo. The top is thin, and kind of tough to read.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Damascus Gate : Spawn of Provo (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: Actually thought that this was a little harder than Dr. Goodkind.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Low Standard Cave : Sodomizing Satan (5.11c/d)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 22, 2015

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Comments: It is called 11d, because the last move is like v5. The crimps are ridiculous, and the throw is super long, especially if short.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Kindling (5.10a)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 14, 2015

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Comments: Good warm up. Wanders a little, but fun and worth doing.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Cactus Rose (5.11+)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: VERY good route, but there is no way that the top bulge is 11c (felt like very painful V4 by itself, after resting on bolt).


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