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Member Since: Feb 6, 2012
Last Visit: moments ago
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Point Rank: # 3,478
Total Points: 185
Last Year: 51
Last 30 Days: 12
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has the schmuck been climbing?










Contributions


All 568 | Routes 11 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 75 | Posts 288 | Stars 138 | Ratings 56
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : The Anvil (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: 4 days ago

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Comments: This is probably the worst route at Fire wall. It is awkward and chossy, and probably harder than most, or all of the 11s on the wall. I gave it a second star only because the wife kind of liked it, and it is well bolted.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Toast (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Thought the slab between bolts 2 and 3 was the crux. Really fun route.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Fire Walker (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 23, 2016

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Comments: Never hard, but pretty sustained. Very fun.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : The Egg (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 23, 2016

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Comments: Not as sustained as its neighbor, but has a nice crux. Fun.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Reignite (5.11+)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 23, 2016

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Comments: The start is rotten, but the route is fantastic.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Still Smokin (5.10d)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 23, 2016

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Comments: The rock quality is a little flaky, and the nature of the climbing is cryptic, but the climbing is steep and fun. Worth doing.


Location: NM : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Fire Wall and Upper Tier : Fiyo (5.11+)
By: the schmuck When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: Very bouldery crux off the ground goes to easy climbing, and is followed by easier cruxes through couple more bulges, interspersed by more very easy climbing. Not very sustained, a little sandy, and not as fun as other routes on this wall.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Bloody Turnip (5.10c)
By: the schmuck When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: The crux on this thing is pretty much rotten choss. Scary to think that it has "cleaned up." At least it is very generously bolted.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Low Standard Cave : Nipple Stud (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Fun for being so short. Hard, thin start, to a gymnastic but easier finish.


Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Right Fork : The Minimum Crag : Afterglow (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Really fun route with a bit of a thin crux. Fair bit harder than the other 11+'s at Minimum.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : BYOB (5.12c)
By: the schmuck When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: Clipping the last bolt seems to be THE crux for me. Fun.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Tornado Alley : Unknown aka Left of Black S... (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: This is much more fun than it looks. It is also more sustained than "Spidergrind," but with an easier crux.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Tornado Alley : Spidergrind (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Brief crux through the middle bulge that shorter climbers can crimp through without it being too reachy. The rest of the route is a fun, low to mid 10.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Solstice Cave : Hot Tamale (5.10b)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Bolting is a little funky, and I wasn't enamored with the caving hangers for the anchor. The whole thing feels like it was bolted on a budget, but it climbs very nicely.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Solstice Cave : Scorcher (5.11c)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Truly a one move wonder with a very long deadpoint. Pretty fun.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Fossil Wall : 3 Feet From An Orgy - a.k.... (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: 11d does not feel completely unreasonable, but this felt harder than any other 12a or 11d I've been on at LCC. Very fun route that stays on you for the first four bolts.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Paleolithic Tool Traditions (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: Good route, but the meat of it is kind of short. Still, it throws really thin and long moves at you, and if you think it is as hard or easier than the routes to the right, you are out of your mind. Those went down second go, but not even close on linking this one.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Mighty Mouse (5.10c)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Short, sharp, and unpleasant. However, at 5'6, I did not find anything reachy about the top, which was the easiest and most obvious section.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Ice Cream Hangover (5.11b)
By: the schmuck When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Very good movement on not so good rock. The hardware is suspect, and the left anchor bolt and hardware are horrifying (the right anchor is a strange glue-in that looks to be in good shape).


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Stormy Weather (5.11a)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: The start on this is pretty hard, very thin, and not anywhere in the neighborhood of 11a or 11 anything for that matter. Saving grace is the weird but engaging roof.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Plate Tectonics (5.10c)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Not a great route, but not an awful route either. This is a good warmup for the harder stuff to the right. It is cleaning up and is worth doing.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Crab Nation (5.10-)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 25, 2016

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Comments: Really not a bad route and a good warm-up.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Spontaneous Combustion (5.12a)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: Super nice route with one star deduction for weird clip stances on the headwall.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Trailer Park Logic (5.10b)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: This is actually pretty fun and a good warmup. There is a slightly solid crux transitioning from the left face over the bulge to the upper crack. Climbs better than it looks.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Pick Pocket (5.11d)
By: the schmuck When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: Solid V4 over bulge to big left move above last bolt, equals 12-. At 5'6", I thought that this was way harder than "Lats" or any of the other 11d's mentioned. Quality.


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