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Member Since: Nov 23, 2002
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 1,971
Total Points: 290
Last Year: 4
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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The Gray Tradster

 
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Contributions


All 151 | Routes 14 | Areas 1 | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 80 | Posts 6 | Stars 27 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Leaping Leaner (5.6)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jul 7, 2003

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Comments: Try it with the "leap" down and across the trench. We've conned unsuspecting victims into doing this on a TR. It's suprisingly easy to "stick" It would be a pretty sick lead that way though!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Bird on a Wire (5.10a)
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 30, 2003

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Comments: The first time I did this route was in the late 70's, early 80's and there was only one 1/4" bolt.The doubled bolts that are there now are in about the same vicinity, thus the comment on not belaying there.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Dappled Mare (5.8)
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 12, 2003

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Comments: On the traverse pitch, don't place any pro until you start back up the crack and get about level with the belay, (or farther if nerves allow) Use a long sling on the first couple of pieces and the drag won't be bad.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : The Swift (5.7)
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 12, 2003

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Comments: A favorite route. The 5.8 start variation eliminates the traversing and rope drag problems and adds to the excitement/frustration as the case may be. Start in a left facing corner about 40-50ft left of the fall line of the main dihedral. This pitch ends at the blocky ledge at the base of the dihedral. You can just about eliminate rope drag by doing a short pitch and seting up a belay on a stance about 15ft above where the route escapes the dihedral and goes out right. One more pitch gets yo... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Mare's Tail (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 12, 2003

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Comments: Clarification of the route description: Belay on the large ledge at its' far right end, (about 40' right of Dappled). Climb up the crack past a couple of undercuts, (7,8ish) for about 80ft. Belay at the end of the crack where a horizontal intersects from the right, (Space Shot 5.8). Make a 5.9- move to a seam and go up to where the crack breaks left, (good pro finaly!) The wide stuff above is easier than it looks. If you run into poor rock you took a wrong turn somewhere. not as hard or fri... more >>


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