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Member Since: Nov 23, 2002
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,928
Total Points: 290
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has The Gray Tradster been climbing?










The Gray Tradster

 
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All 151 | Routes 14 | Areas 1 | Photos 11 | Page Improvments | Comments 80 | Posts 6 | Stars 27 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Northeast Face West (5.6)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Feb 25, 2006

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Comments: If you have a 60M rope and do a short, (about 60 Ft) first pitch, you end up with comfortable belays with good anchors at the end of each pitch. Go up and a little left after the summit overhang (where El Wampo, etc. join) for a better finish.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Belle Campground Area : Belle Campground : Castle Rock : ... : That Old Soft Shoe (5.10d)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Oct 5, 2005

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Comments: This one has for sure got much slicker than it used to be.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Belle Campground Area : Belle Campground : Castle Rock : ... : Music Box (5.8)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Oct 5, 2005

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Comments: "The hardest 5.8 in the park!"

There is a trick to it and it may be height or hand size dependent.I've always felt 5.8 was fair, but nobody else did.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Key's Point : Super Key (5.9+)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jul 18, 2005

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Comments: The anchor is where it is for two primary reasons

It was a comfortable place to stand to hand drill

The rock on the arete to the right looked to fragile to continue to the top without removing, intentionaly or not, large ammounts of rock.

Glad to see someone else has done it though.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Johnson Canyon : Ancient Kingdom : Spanish Bayonet (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Feb 12, 2005

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Comments: The photos were ripped from Socalhotclimbs by an anonymous coward and are of Tom Martin leading, taken by Wendell Smith.

Permision granted to leave them.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Polka Dot Wall
By: The Gray Tradster When: Feb 8, 2005

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Comments: Actualy We found it highly ironic that we had to pack out trash found on top of the formation! Pick up after yourselves people!

There's a very complete govt sponsored list of the gps coordinates of almost every formation and feature in the park remote or otherwise. J Tree is even in its most remote areas, "developed".If this info keeps people from trampling all over the place creating braided dead ended trails looking for this formation it will have served its intended purpose. Its descripti... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Polka Dot Wall : Wild Goose Chase (5.8+)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Feb 6, 2005

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Comments: The crux is passing a small delicate feature, (the mail box flag) without damaging it. A pox on the gumby that eventualy pulls it off! Cruxy finish also.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Polka Dot Wall
By: The Gray Tradster When: Feb 6, 2005

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Comments: The "small Plateau area" is distinguished by a stand of several dead pinyons. 1000 ft elevation gain total from the car, Allow 1-1/4 to 1-1/2hr.

UTM 579615 3770773 (Conus 27)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Dandelion Stem (5.10a)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Feb 3, 2005

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Comments: I did it with Tobin Sorensen back in the early/mid 70's.




Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Papa Woolsey (5.10b)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Dec 22, 2004

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Comments: Can still do it so it's not C or better. It is more difficult than it used to be though, polished.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : Crown Jewels (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Nov 30, 2004

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Comments: A key hold has broken. It hasn't been 5.7 for several years


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mel's Diner : Left Mel Crack (5.10b)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Apr 21, 2004

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Comments: These climbs were (purposely?) misnamed. The Right Mel Crack is the one on the Left and vice versa.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Hound Rock
By: The Gray Tradster When: Apr 19, 2004

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Comments: There are two difficult routes on the right end of the formation, Animalitos, 11b and Animalargos, 11c. These are shown as leads in the 92 Vogel guide and as TR's in Bartlet and most subsequent guides. Last year (03) we were on Baskerville and heard a commotion. A climber had come off (not sure which route) and decked zippering all his gear. He was able to make it out under his own power, miracuously avoiding any serious injury. The rock on this formation deteriorates in quality to the right... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Feudal Wall : ... : La Reina (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jan 14, 2004

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Comments: Good short steep jaming exercise. Most of the flakes are creakers so place pro accordingly.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Foolproof Tower : High Strung (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jan 14, 2004

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Comments: This one is located conviniently as a warm-up/down for the Astrodome routes. Crux thin move at the bottom.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon Area : Watanobe Wall : Watanobe Wall (5.10a)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jan 14, 2004

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Comments: On the hard side of 10a. All of our gang did Taxman, (as well as most other a's) cleanly but took a couple of trys on this one! A kneebar helps.

If you set a TR on it, place 2 or 3 pieces for directionals.It's an optical illusion that makes the crack look much more vertical than it is when viewed from below. You could end up swinging hard from the first crux into the corner on the right if you don't set it up correctly.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Johnson Canyon : Ancient Kingdom : Spanish Bayonet (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Dec 18, 2003

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Comments: Did this route a couple of years ago, and again last year. The key foothold has gone from a thought provoking C shaped smear to a larger square cut hold. Chipping?? Agreed that the bolt is not required and the gear placement more confidence inspiring than the bolt anyway. Great route though and well worth the hike.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Third Time's a Charm (5.10b)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Nov 18, 2003

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Comments: It's significantly easier if you do a face move a little to the left rather than forcing your way up the lieback. May be height dependent that way though.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Mike's Books (5.6)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Nov 17, 2003

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Comments: The original rating in the Wolfe book was 5.5. The bolt for the finish didn't appear untill the late 70's or early 80's. The last nut also had an unnerving habit of falling out. There were no bolted belays obviously. Last time I did it thought, (Boy, we used to do this with only hexes?)


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Circle Crag
By: The Gray Tradster When: Nov 3, 2003

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Comments: I'd characterize all of them with the exception of, The Haberdashery, (ok lead) as TR's or hi ball boulder problems. All of the cruxes are just high enough to be ankle breakers with no decent pro anyway and the climbing eases off rapidly after that.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky : Dolphin (5.7)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jul 24, 2003

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Comments: This climb is an excellent introduction to OW. Just remember three things, a big piece, long pants, and climbing OW is like eating an elephant, (one bite at a time!) The pictures tell it all.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Grand Canyon : Grand Canyon - West Wall (E... : Grand Canyon Donkey Trail (5.10a R)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jul 24, 2003

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Comments: Yep! it's an R for sure.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : West Tiers : Blood and Cuts (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jul 24, 2003

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Comments: Oh' it's 10a. I thought it was the F18's that made it hard. Led it many years ago and right at the crux two USMC F18's made a low, (300ft or so) pass up the canyon. Got so griped I fell off!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Thin Wall
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jul 18, 2003

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Comments: re: crux at top. That's so typical of Josh. the crack gets wide at the top and a little groveling is involved. It's not just the Thin Wall. Done many a route here and cruse'd the crux only to feel like a beached fish at the top.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Double Cross (5.7+)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jul 11, 2003

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Comments: The first time I did this route, (very Early 70's) I ran across a Smashed beer can placed in the upper crack like a chock. I threw a sling around it, mainly to amuse my second, although it was well placed and probably would have worked. I Also think the rating is fair. You just have to understand how to jam, and you can't learn that on plastic. Hell, Damper was a 5.4 back then. That was a sandbag!


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