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Member Since: Nov 23, 2002
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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The Gray Tradster

 
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All (149) | Routes (14) | Areas (1) | Photos (11) | Comments (79) | Posts (5) | Stars (27) | Ratings (12)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Buissonier (5.7)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Nov 17, 2009

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Comments: 5.6 or 7 if you do it correctly.

No liebacking required.
Even ninjas don't lieback it.
Even ninjas don't lieback it.



Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Dave's Deviation (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Aug 25, 2009

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Comments: I'm sure that tree has absorbed far more than one fall, but we did the route the day after a particularly fierce thunderstorm and the sharp upper branches were barely hanging on. Burnt to the core.

We brought the branch down in a dignified manner. It was a bad accident waiting to happen.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Dave's Deviation (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Aug 24, 2009

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Comments: The tree was pruned by a lightning bolt last year.

We thought maybe someone had fallen on it, but close examination revealed the burn marks.

Not near as threatening when you get above it now.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Overseer (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Aug 7, 2009

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Comments: "Third Times a Charm

Is in Indian Cove


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Hidden Tower : Sail Away (5.8-)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Mar 29, 2009

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Comments: Great route to do on all passive gear!

Leave the cams on the deck.

One larger than #12 stopper may be a good idea. Something in the 1-1/2 1-1/4 range.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Negro Girls (5.9 R)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Mar 29, 2009

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Comments: Woody found the two bolts on the second pitch last year, with a little help.

They are a bit right of what looks from the belay like the logical line and hard to see. Not that suprising considering that the first one is at least 50 ft out.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertrip (5.7)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Mar 20, 2009

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Comments: Tahquitz is not a sport crag. We must assume your feet work, you got up there somehow.

Walk off.

Do the Tobin Sorensen memorial tree swing if you dare.

(Woody told me it existed long before Tobin though)


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : White Punks on Dope (5.8+ PG13)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Nov 2, 2008

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Comments: The original first pitch climbs the obvious splitter hand crack in the center of the alcove to a sling belay at its end, not the easier crack/dihedral to the right. The second pitch starts with some bold but relatively easy face moves right off the belay.

This is one climb/formation where you want to leave nothing at the base.
To descend go all the way to the top and then look for rap slings on the north side. Do a short rap or continue west to a broken area where a 40-60ft 3rd class scrambl... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Traitor Horn (5.8)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Sep 27, 2008

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Comments: This climb often produces epic events for the second. (have seen this happen often over the years much to the entertainment of those below) The leader needs to make sure the rope management takes care of the second.


Make sure the rope runs on the horn side of the crack and can't slide back into it. Belaying shortly after the horn is a good idea.

If it runs in the crack or to climbers left of it a fall by the second will result in either a slam into the corner or a big air swing, lowering, re... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Maiden Buttress : White Maiden's Walkaway (5.1)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Sep 27, 2008

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Comments: There's been serious grade inflation since Chuck Wilts established the decimal grading system at Tahquitz.

The Maiden is 5.1


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Rattlesnake Buttress : Taken for Granite (5.8-)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jun 19, 2008

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Comments: The "logical ending" is the top.

It's an easy and short scramble off to the right.

No need for any convenience anchors.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : B-1 (5.1)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jan 11, 2008

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Comments: How hard can 5.1b?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Hound Rock : Over The Hill (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Nov 25, 2007

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Comments: Quality Choss!

Still a bomb though.

Following it felt more like old school 5.6.

Given the rock quality, I'm glad the princess rope gunned it for us.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Hound Rock
By: The Gray Tradster When: Nov 25, 2007

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Comments: There are a half dozen or so crack lines on the back side. They look grainy and unpleasant down low, better above, and from the looks of them have obviously been done more than once.

Anyone care to offer up some names and ratings?

Todd?

Tucker?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rock Area : Conan's Corridor : Colorado Crack (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Nov 25, 2007

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Comments: Joe Schmoe took my comment about a completely different route (Mikes Books)and placed it out of context.

A bolt added almost 40 years ago due to changing technology and beat out placements (I'm assuming thats why it was placed. A cam would offer plenty of protection now) and convenience anchors placed where you are literally sitting on a protectable crack are two far different things.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Racing The Sun (aka Lucky C... (5.7)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Nov 25, 2007

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Comments: Where you broke left on the easy ramp you should have gone up the dihedral.

First pitch was more or less correct. Original line maybe a little left using the big flake.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Rose Tower : Olive Oil (5.7)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Oct 30, 2007

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Comments: Did you play the bongos at the first belay?

If not

You failed the "comic relief" requirement.


hit the solution holes with a flat hand. most of a scale of notes


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Left Hand of Darkness : Left Hand of Darkness - E. ... : Left Route (5.10a R)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Sep 29, 2007

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Comments: No way is this one a bomb!

The pro really sucks though, but it is one of the better A/B TRs around.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Piton Pooper (5.7)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Aug 14, 2007

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Comments: There are plenty of protection options here. No convenience anchors have been required since 1936. There's no need to add any now.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : El Whampo (5.7)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jul 26, 2007

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Comments: A spicier and longer finish is to go up then right over a small overhang.(this is well below the bolt)
Run it out right face climbing to a vertical crack and ascend to under the arch to a comfortable belay, (5.7).

There are several alternative exits from the arch, all about the same difficulty. The highest quality alternative is to continue with an easy long pitch and exit at the overhang that is shared by N.E. Face West and several other routes.

This produces about a six pitch climb and ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Racing The Sun (aka Lucky C... (5.7)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Apr 21, 2007

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Comments: If you didn't go the same way as the "Princess" is in the photo,

you didn't do the route.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Consolation (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Sep 10, 2006

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Comments: This is as good a climb as Whodunit in almost all respects, especially if you start at the base of the buttress in the middle of the recess and do the first pitch or two of Constellation (5.8 or so)avoiding the first easy scrambling pitches.

The crux is an unusual crack configuration I've never seen anywhere else.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : Hair Lip (5.10a)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Aug 4, 2006

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Comments: That might have been us. We had a toprope set up doing laps on HBR in prep for a Yosemite trip. (Thought some of them could use some flared chiminey practice.)

Dave reached over the lip and grabed someone by the ankle. Neither one knew the other was there and they both about came off. We were laughing are Azzes off once we realized no one was going to peel.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Coffin Nail (5.7+)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Feb 25, 2006

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Comments: The best way to approach Traitor Horn or Pearly Gates


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Northeast Face West (5.6)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Feb 25, 2006

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Comments: If you have a 60M rope and do a short, (about 60 Ft) first pitch, you end up with comfortable belays with good anchors at the end of each pitch. Go up and a little left after the summit overhang (where El Wampo, etc. join) for a better finish.


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