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Member Since: Nov 23, 2002
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,944
Total Points: 290
Last Year: 4
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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The Gray Tradster

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 151 | Routes 14 | Areas 1 | Photos 11 | Page Improvments | Comments 80 | Posts 6 | Stars 27 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : Double Cross (5.7+)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jul 11, 2003

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Comments: The first time I did this route, (very Early 70's) I ran across a Smashed beer can placed in the upper crack like a chock. I threw a sling around it, mainly to amuse my second, although it was well placed and probably would have worked. I Also think the rating is fair. You just have to understand how to jam, and you can't learn that on plastic. Hell, Damper was a 5.4 back then. That was a sandbag!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Leaping Leaner (5.6)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jul 7, 2003

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Comments: Try it with the "leap" down and across the trench. We've conned unsuspecting victims into doing this on a TR. It's suprisingly easy to "stick" It would be a pretty sick lead that way though!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Bird on a Wire (5.10a)
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 30, 2003

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Comments: The first time I did this route was in the late 70's, early 80's and there was only one 1/4" bolt.The doubled bolts that are there now are in about the same vicinity, thus the comment on not belaying there.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Dappled Mare (5.8)
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 12, 2003

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Comments: On the traverse pitch, don't place any pro until you start back up the crack and get about level with the belay, (or farther if nerves allow) Use a long sling on the first couple of pieces and the drag won't be bad.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : The Swift (5.7)
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 12, 2003

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Comments: A favorite route. The 5.8 start variation eliminates the traversing and rope drag problems and adds to the excitement/frustration as the case may be. Start in a left facing corner about 40-50ft left of the fall line of the main dihedral. This pitch ends at the blocky ledge at the base of the dihedral. You can just about eliminate rope drag by doing a short pitch and seting up a belay on a stance about 15ft above where the route escapes the dihedral and goes out right. One more pitch gets yo... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Mare's Tail (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 12, 2003

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Comments: Clarification of the route description: Belay on the large ledge at its' far right end, (about 40' right of Dappled). Climb up the crack past a couple of undercuts, (7,8ish) for about 80ft. Belay at the end of the crack where a horizontal intersects from the right, (Space Shot 5.8). Make a 5.9- move to a seam and go up to where the crack breaks left, (good pro finaly!) The wide stuff above is easier than it looks. If you run into poor rock you took a wrong turn somewhere. not as hard or fri... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Idyllwild Climbers Festival - June 1, 2014Southern CaliforniaThe Gray TradsterMay 26, 2014
re: 7/15 - Mountain Fire affecting access to Idyllwild/Tahquitz/SuicideSouthern CaliforniaThe Gray TradsterAug 10, 2013
re: Idyllwild Climbers Festival (May 19th)Southern CaliforniaThe Gray TradsterMay 17, 2013
re: Idyllwild Climbers Festival (May 19th)Southern CaliforniaThe Gray TradsterMay 9, 2013
re: Tahquitz guidebook of choice?Southern CaliforniaThe Gray TradsterNov 21, 2012
Thieves at TahquitzSouthern CaliforniaThe Gray TradsterJul 18, 2011

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Third Time's a Charm 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Moosedog Tower

Bird on a Wire 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid...

The Consolation 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Northwest Recess

El Camino Real 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : West Face - Right Side

Northeast Face West 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : North Face

Roan Way 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid...

Spanish Bayonet 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Ancient Kingdom

Watanobe Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Watanobe Wall

High Strung 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Foolproof Tower

Papa Woolsey 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Blob - Southeast Face

Wild Goose Chase 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Polka Dot Wall

Left Route 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Left Hand of Darkness - E. ...

Mike's Books 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Intersection Rock

An Eye to the West 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hound Rock

Super Key 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Key's Point

Steeper Than It Looks 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Key's Point

Racing The Sun (aka Lucky Charms) 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Moosedog Tower

The Key Knob 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Key's Point

La Reina 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Feudal Wall (Left Side)

Left Mel Crack 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Mel's Diner

Crown Jewels 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Feudal Wall (Left Side)

Cheap Pottery 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Key's Point

The Key Crack 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Key's Point

The Key Hole 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Key's Point

Wilson Regular Route 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid...

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