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Member Since: Nov 23, 2002
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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Page Improvements = 3
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The Gray Tradster

 
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Contributions


All 151 | Routes 14 | Areas 1 | Photos 11 | Page Improvments | Comments 80 | Posts 6 | Stars 27 | Ratings 12
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Master Beta drags another headless climber up the Key Crack.

Master Beta drags another headless climber up the Key Crack.

CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Key Crack (5.10b)

Jul 8, 2003

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Dave's Deviation (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: The Jam Crack and Dave's crisscross in the same manner as The Long and Wong climbs at the first belay.

Dave's descends slightly from the ledge going left to access a crack with suspect rock, tiny pro, a 5.9 move and a for sure ankle breaker ledge below. That's where the R rating at one time came from.

Doing the second pitch of Jam Crack was always more popular and it doesn't surprise me that the new guide has it that way. I don't think I know anyone that has done the original second pitch mo... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Right Ski Track (5.8)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: How can you call something "contrived" that follows the natural line and, was put up in 1957 with a hammer, soft iron pins and crummy shoes?


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : ... : Photo
By: The Gray Tradster When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: Did it that way once years ago so the memory is a bit dim, but I don't recall it being any harder than 8. Pro after the end of the crack was sparse but adequate.

It's likely that plenty of people have done it that way as the Vernon guidebook topo showed it as a 5.7 crack to a sling belay and the move over the roof as 8+.

There may be a move or two of 8 a bit out from gear (or the sling belay) once the crack peters out.

The crux is definitely getting over the roof no mater which of the three ... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Piton Pooper (5.7)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Nope, It's one pitch of the DD,JC,PP,URA


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingertip Traverse (5.3)
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 26, 2013

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Comments: The Tahquitz decimal system (later to be adopted as the YDS)was originally based on a list of climbs that established the basis for the grading system by Chuck Wilts in multiple editions of his guidebook.

5.0 The Trough
5.1 Fingertip Traverse
5.3 Northeast Farce
5.4 Angels Fright
5.5 Ski Tracks
5.6 Sahara Terror
5.7 Fingertrip
5.8 Mechanic's Route (Booksellers Route)

Later additions were
5.9 Open Book
5.10 Blank
5.10+ Blankety-Blank

Just explain to the beginners what a "fingertip traverse" i... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Left Sid... : Norm (5.10a)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Feb 14, 2013

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Comments: I wouldn't trust my life or ankles to that fixed pin. I believe it's fallen out in the past.

Back it up.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Buttress : Flower of High Rank (5.9) : Photo
By: The Gray Tradster When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: liz Ying,

AKA Princess Ropegun

The advantage to protecting it this way is the gear and rope aren't under foot and in your way.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Buttress : Flower of High Rank (5.9) : Photo
By: The Gray Tradster When: Nov 22, 2012

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Comments: That's me


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Sep 30, 2012

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Comments: Sounds like maybe you did the first pitch of Edgehogs.

The crux moves are an attention getter off physiological pro (# 1 or #2 nut, if the placement isn't completely blown out by now)

The move past the fixed pin, just after the anchor, is inconsequential in comparison.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : ... : Photo
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jun 13, 2012

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Comments: There's a nice flat ledge on the top of the false horn.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Cockroach Crag : False Classic Corner (aka T... (5.6)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Feb 4, 2012

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Comments: Solid 8


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Cockroach Crag : Classic Corner (5.7)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Feb 4, 2012

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Comments: After 40+ years of climbing here, You'd of thought I'd got to this one before.

Great short route, but the exit move may be a bit of a challenge for the shorter set.

Beware!

There's about a 16" long section of the right edge of the crack that's about to part company. (Right above the welded in fixed poot)

It feels solid in compression but is completely loose, and liebacking at this point is about mandatory. Don't play with it or place gear here!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Labor Dome
By: The Gray Tradster When: Nov 25, 2011

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Comments: The anchor was a completely unnecessary retro bolt job and deserved the chop.

There's a perfectly satisfactory crack within three feet.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Summit Block : Red Rock Route (5.1)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Aug 29, 2011

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Comments: The 5.1 rating is a holdover from the original Willts guide.

There was a whole different attitude about the difficulty of chimney moves then, (the chimney at the start of Angels Fright was rated 5.0).

Compounding that, nobody ever did this route.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Boy Scout Trail Area : The Monkey's Paw
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 29, 2011

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Comments: This formation is the first large unimpressive pile of boulders you see on the right side of the trail. It looks like there can't be anything worth doing there from that vantage point.

We did three of the five today and the consensus of an experienced bunch of locals was;

Wiener Inspector (hard 5.9 or soft 10a)

My Naughty Little Donkey (10a)

Bongo Johnnie (10b if over 5'9" 10+ if shorter)

The middle two;

too evil looking to contemplate today.

All of the routes we... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : The Chief (5.5)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Dec 17, 2010

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Comments: This has become an increasing problem.

Convenience anchors have now sprouted on Woman's Work is Never Done. and even relatively obscure routes like Dreams of Redrocks.

It particularly makes no sense at all on this one.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : The Jam Crack (5.8)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Oct 11, 2010

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Comments: In the 1970 edition Wilts describes the route as going left, under the roof.

By the 79 edition he describes the route as traversing right, (just about under the text box in the photo) at the roof with the variation going left. Wilts rates it 5.7 in both editions, but for once I'd agree with Gaines and call it 5.8.

The move going right is 5.4 scary and not real obvious. Then continue up easy terrain to the ledge.

Many routes slightly change description from earlier versions of Wilts to lat... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jul 30, 2010

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Comments: Thee BEST!

5.6 in the southern half of the state.

The definition of fun climbing.

No matter what level I was climbing at we always ran up this one on the way out of the Needles.

I've lost track of the number of times I've done it.

One of the trees is now dead though.

Gone like an old friend.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : The Trough (5.4)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jul 1, 2010

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Comments: For a bit of historical perspective,

This climb was the original definition of 5.0


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : Summer Sojourn (5.7+ R)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jun 20, 2010

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Comments: Boy, it seems this climb has sprouted a lot of extra bolts now.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Photo
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 24, 2010

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Comments: Woody Stark, Bill Briggs and some of the other Riverside bunch did the entire ridge back in the early 60's.

From what he told me it all went at no more difficult than 5.8,

(but that's a lot of old school 5.8)


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Pigs in Bondage (5.10a)
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 22, 2010

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Comments: Not even close!

After rereading maybe they did traverse all the way over to Fingertrip,
There isn't anything on that finish that is remotely close to 5.8 though, so it may be a recently placed bolt.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Chimney Rock : Chimney Rock - West Face : Damper (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Apr 18, 2010

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Comments: The first guide (Wolfe's) described Damper as F5 (5.4) " A jamcrack in a large dihedral near the south end of the west face provides a short beginner's route. First ascent: unknown."


It was one of my first leads at the Monument and proved to be quite exciting. One each 4", 3" and 2" bongs. Stiff old school boots do fit better than modern shoes though.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : Pope's Crack (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Mar 5, 2010

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Comments: I had about a ten year hiatus from climbing much and upon returning to the insanity (early 90's)decided to make a project one year out of on sighting every 5.9 and 10a in the Monument that Vogel gave five stars to and Bartlet gave three. Got most all of them.

I felt that Pope's was squarely in the middle difficulty wise of the 5.9's

Now a couple of caveats;

The crux move has a size dependent wide fist jam and is much easier if your mitts fit.

The lower section is now about as poli... more >>


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