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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Left Sid... : Norm (5.10a)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Feb 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't trust my life or ankles to that fixed pin. I believe it's fallen out in the past.
Back it up.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Buttress : Flower of High Rank (5.9) : Photo
By: The Gray Tradster When: Nov 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: liz Ying,
AKA Princess Ropegun
The advantage to protecting it this way is the gear and rope aren't under foot and in your way.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Buttress : Flower of High Rank (5.9) : Photo
By: The Gray Tradster When: Nov 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's me
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Sep 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds like maybe you did the first pitch of Edgehogs.
The crux moves are an attention getter off physiological pro (# 1 or #2 nut, if the placement isn't completely blown out by now)
The move past the fixed pin, just after the anchor, is inconsequential in comparison.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : ... : Photo
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jun 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a nice flat ledge on the top of the false horn.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Cockroach Crag : False Classic Corner (aka T... (5.6)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Feb 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Solid 8
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Cockroach Crag : Classic Corner (5.7)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Feb 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: After 40+ years of climbing here, You'd of thought I'd got to this one before.
Great short route, but the exit move may be a bit of a challenge for the shorter set.
Beware!
There's about a 16" long section of the right edge of the crack that's about to part company. (Right above the welded in fixed poot)
It feels solid in compression but is completely loose, and liebacking at this point is about mandatory. Don't play with it or place gear here!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Labor Dome
By: The Gray Tradster When: Nov 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchor was a completely unnecessary retro bolt job and deserved the chop.
There's a perfectly satisfactory crack within three feet.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Summit Block : Red Rock Route (5.1)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Aug 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 5.1 rating is a holdover from the original Willts guide.
There was a whole different attitude about the difficulty of chimney moves then, (the chimney at the start of Angels Fright was rated 5.0).
Compounding that, nobody ever did this route.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Boy Scout Trail Area : The Monkey's Paw
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This formation is the first large unimpressive pile of boulders you see on the right side of the trail. It looks like there can't be anything worth doing there from that vantage point.
We did three of the five today and the consensus of an experienced bunch of locals was;
Wiener Inspector (hard 5.9 or soft 10a)
My Naughty Little Donkey (10a)
Bongo Johnnie (10b if over 5'9" 10+ if shorter)
The middle two;
too evil looking to contemplate today.
All of the routes we... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : The Chief (5.5)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Dec 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This has become an increasing problem.
Convenience anchors have now sprouted on Woman's Work is Never Done. and even relatively obscure routes like Dreams of Redrocks.
It particularly makes no sense at all on this one.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : The Jam Crack (5.8)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Oct 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the 1970 edition Wilts describes the route as going left, under the roof.
By the 79 edition he describes the route as traversing right, (just about under the text box in the photo) at the roof with the variation going left. Wilts rates it 5.7 in both editions, but for once I'd agree with Gaines and call it 5.8.
The move going right is 5.4 scary and not real obvious. Then continue up easy terrain to the ledge.
Many routes slightly change description from earlier versions of Wilts to lat... more >>
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Tree Route (5.6)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jul 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thee BEST!
5.6 in the southern half of the state.
The definition of fun climbing.
No matter what level I was climbing at we always ran up this one on the way out of the Needles.
I've lost track of the number of times I've done it.
One of the trees is now dead though.
Gone like an old friend.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : The Trough (5.4)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jul 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: For a bit of historical perspective,
This climb was the original definition of 5.0
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : Summer Sojourn (5.7+ R)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jun 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Boy, it seems this climb has sprouted a lot of extra bolts now.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Photo
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Woody Stark, Bill Briggs and some of the other Riverside bunch did the entire ridge back in the early 60's.
From what he told me it all went at no more difficult than 5.8,
(but that's a lot of old school 5.8)
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Pigs in Bondage (5.10a)
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not even close!
After rereading maybe they did traverse all the way over to Fingertrip,
There isn't anything on that finish that is remotely close to 5.8 though, so it may be a recently placed bolt.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Chimney Rock : Chimney Rock - West Face : Damper (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Apr 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first guide (Wolfe's) described Damper as F5 (5.4) " A jamcrack in a large dihedral near the south end of the west face provides a short beginner's route. First ascent: unknown."
It was one of my first leads at the Monument and proved to be quite exciting. One each 4", 3" and 2" bongs. Stiff old school boots do fit better than modern shoes though.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - South Face : Pope's Crack (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Mar 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had about a ten year hiatus from climbing much and upon returning to the insanity (early 90's)decided to make a project one year out of on sighting every 5.9 and 10a in the Monument that Vogel gave five stars to and Bartlet gave three. Got most all of them.
I felt that Pope's was squarely in the middle difficulty wise of the 5.9's
Now a couple of caveats;
The crux move has a size dependent wide fist jam and is much easier if your mitts fit.
The lower section is now about as poli... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Party in the Desert (5.10b)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Feb 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start is "worn out".
But, it's "The Monument" so the first ten feet don't count.
Rating stays the same.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Sahara Terror (5.7)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Jan 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: You were on route,
The topo is drawn incorrectly there
The route jogs right and goes up the Vee groove directly below the second 5.6 from the top. (beta photo)
The move isn't bad but the only piece that works to protect it hasn't been available for about 40 years. (smallest Peck Cracker)
If you go straight up from the belay the way the topo is drawn it's more like 5.9 thin
I've always considered the move around the "ominous downward jutting block" (obvious directly above the last 5.6 on t... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Buissonier (5.7)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.6 or 7 if you do it correctly.
No liebacking required.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Dave's Deviation (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Aug 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm sure that tree has absorbed far more than one fall, but we did the route the day after a particularly fierce thunderstorm and the sharp upper branches were barely hanging on. Burnt to the core.
We brought the branch down in a dignified manner. It was a bad accident waiting to happen.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Left Side : Dave's Deviation (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The tree was pruned by a lightning bolt last year.
We thought maybe someone had fallen on it, but close examination revealed the burn marks.
Not near as threatening when you get above it now.
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