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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Dappled Mare (5.8)
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 12, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the traverse pitch, don't place any pro until you start back up the crack and get about level with the belay, (or farther if nerves allow) Use a long sling on the first couple of pieces and the drag won't be bad.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : The Swift (5.7)
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 12, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: A favorite route. The 5.8 start variation eliminates the traversing and rope drag problems and adds to the excitement/frustration as the case may be. Start in a left facing corner about 40-50ft left of the fall line of the main dihedral. This pitch ends at the blocky ledge at the base of the dihedral. You can just about eliminate rope drag by doing a short pitch and seting up a belay on a stance about 15ft above where the route escapes the dihedral and goes out right. One more pitch gets yo... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Mare's Tail (5.9)
By: The Gray Tradster When: May 12, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Clarification of the route description: Belay on the large ledge at its' far right end, (about 40' right of Dappled). Climb up the crack past a couple of undercuts, (7,8ish) for about 80ft. Belay at the end of the crack where a horizontal intersects from the right, (Space Shot 5.8). Make a 5.9- move to a seam and go up to where the crack breaks left, (good pro finaly!) The wide stuff above is easier than it looks. If you run into poor rock you took a wrong turn somewhere. not as hard or fri... more >>
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