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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: Terry Kieck When: May 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I may have taken that photo. I was out there a few times with Eric and one day he handed me his camera to take some action shots. It looks like my old pad on the ground. If this is the case Eric owns the rights to the photo.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : South Bluff Bouldering : The Reserve : ... : Spread Eagle (V2-)
By: Terry Kieck When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Been done before. Maybe Paul Jones??? I've scrapped my shins a few times trying to establish a good foot placement on that thing!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Horseshoes & Hand Grenades (V2)
By: Terry Kieck When: Apr 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are several problems/variations and eliminates on this boulder that I have been doing for years including the left arete. I don't believe any of them were given official names. Just boring refenences like the 'left side' or 'go straight up'.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : North Shore
By: Terry Kieck When: Apr 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're correct the Mini Me is not listed on MP. I did the FA on that years ago. Its a blank face about 10 feet high on the same level ( so above special K and welcome to the lake) as big bud arete around to right maybe 30 feet. Use the aretes to work your way up to dyno to the lip.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : The Sideshow Boulder
By: Terry Kieck When: Apr 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought that looked familar EB! It was call the Diamond Boulder due to its shape. If I recall correctly Eric Z did the direct problem Paul is refering to. The other problems I remember traversed out left (sideshow)and one that went right and then up around the corner above a boulder. I'll have to get back up there an check it out. Thanks for bringing the boulder back to life.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Jameson Arete (V3)
By: Terry Kieck When: Apr 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Straight up the arete. Holds on the left face are off. Hands stay on the arete as you work upward with a fair amount of body tension. There used to be a nice flake inches right of the arete up 8'-9' high (one can still see where it once was) that was useful but now its in my garage. I had to work out a different sequence but I felt the grade was the same.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Burma Road Bouldering : Photo
By: Terry Kieck When: Oct 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done several, I'd call stupid, variaions on this short face. Hardly worth doing do to the height. They are all a couple of moves and its all over but the top out. V0 to V1 at best.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Burma Road Bouldering : Waffle House (V8) : Photo
By: Terry Kieck When: Oct 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Moss sure grows fast out here. This had been done sometime around 2000. I think the FA was Eric Z or Paul Jones. I don't remember a name or rating.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : ... : Loompa Land (V3)
By: Terry Kieck When: Oct 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Mr. Rhoads about adding variations or eliminates under the orginal problem so here it is. Instead of moving right to the series of side pulls. I went left foot to a slot down and left of start hold with a back step/knee drop then straight up with left hand to crimp (crimp was covered with moss, which I cleaned, so I don't think it had been used). Easier than the orginal. V1
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Gills Booger (V2)
By: Terry Kieck When: Oct 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe Ralph Schmidt did a several problems here years ago. It is a good name though!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Burma Road Bouldering : Like Shaking Hands with God (V5 PG13)
By: Terry Kieck When: Oct 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did saturday morning. powerful start for this old guy but fun. Hard for me to grade but my guess would be v5ish too.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Flux Boulder Classic (V4)
By: Terry Kieck When: Sep 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great Problem! I think EB had the FA. EB was did you call this problem? I've forgotten all the names for the problems on this boulder.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Sticky Arete (V3)
By: Terry Kieck When: Sep 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem has been done previously. Eric Z did a sit down start starting deep in the pit. This boulder has been climbed for years and pretty well picked over. Some fun stuff for sure. The only problem I'm not sure has been done is start by what you call the classic route and move up and left. Eric Z worked it but not sure if he ever cleaned it up.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : The Pedestal (V6 PG13)
By: Terry Kieck When: Aug 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem was first done by Eric Zschiesche. Maybe in 2000 or 2001? I don't know if it was ever repeated or named. The west face that is over a pit has a few problems on it as well done by Dave Reich and myself. We covered up the pit with some small logs which I'm sure have long since rotted away. Nice job with the send.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Morning After (5.10d PG13)
By: Terry Kieck When: Aug 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you avoid reaching out right and contrive yourself to the crack it makes this route more 10d. But if you use everything within reach, it definately feels easier. Especially at the start. Classic lake route!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Fear and Trembling (5.9) : Photo
By: Terry Kieck When: Aug 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: One move problem. Don't want to ruin the on-sight for you with too much beta but its definately harder that the 5.9 moves on F & T. I think its in the same difficulty as morning after but its been a few years.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : CCC Trail Project (V6+)
By: Terry Kieck When: Jun 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know Eric Z top roped the thin triangular shaped face. The aretes were off. Don't know if it was ever truly 'bouldered' or not. Maybe Paul Jones would know.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff Central : ... : Weekly Pickup (V3-)
By: Terry Kieck When: May 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this problem in the fall of 2009. The first time I was there I ran into Dobbe and we tried briefly but then we moved on to Jenga. I went back a few days later and worked it out. I agree it is harder than Rhoads Rash. nice moderates on this boulder.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : Purple Haze Boulder
By: Terry Kieck When: Apr 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi John and Paul - back about 10 years ago I climbed many problems on this boulder. Its easy to spot from the trail so I don't know if I was the first to be there or not. I just called it Potholes Boulder due to its location. Never named anything but had fun sending stuff. Also did a traverse around the boulder. When I told others about it at the time it didn't get much of a reaction because its fairly short and problems moderate but I do know others got on it as well. I'm glad to see it p... more >>
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Jameson Arete (V3)
By: Terry Kieck When: Jun 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are you refering to the south facing face of Emily's naptime which shares the arete of Jameson Arete? or the tall face adjacent to those two problems that faces west? Either way, they have both been done. The face only of Emily's naptime is V3ish but was not given a new name, its just a contrived varition. In the original guide 'get on it' the west facing wall was not given a name and came in at V1. It has since been done with a start start which ups the grade.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Lost Temple : Lost Temple Corner (5.6)
By: Terry Kieck When: Apr 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed on this buttress Sunday and I agree with the quality of this route. If it was on the East Bluff it would see a lot of traffic.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Burma Road Bouldering : Murder Slab (V4+)
By: Terry Kieck When: Apr 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wednesday night I went out to Burma and did the variation of using the arete. It was good but much easier maybe V1/2 (couldn't resist using the slash grade - sorry John). Also did the standard route which always makes me think... Some good stuff out at Burma Road.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Burma Road Bouldering : traverse (V2-3)
By: Terry Kieck When: Apr 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this traverse a couple of nights ago after I saw your post. Not sure who would have done this traverse first but I have been doing it for years. Its a good pump at the end of a session to go down and back - rest and do it again!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : Burma Road Bouldering : Murder Slab (V4+)
By: Terry Kieck When: Apr 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thin face holds for me!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Gill's Buttress : Gill's Nose (5.11c) : Photo
By: Terry Kieck When: Jan 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice to see others are as crazy as I am! I was out at balanced rock wall on Wednesday afternoon but it was sunny and 32. The rock was warm although wet from melting snow. The worst part was the approach and the set up. But I do enjoy the peacefulness of climbing in winter!
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