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Member Since: Jan 7, 2004
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact tenesmus

Point Rank: # 228
Total Points: 2,638
Last Year: 29
Last 30 Days: 0
71 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has tenesmus been climbing?










Contributions


All 2151 | Routes 52 | Areas 6 | Photos 280 | Page Improvements | Comments 627 | Posts 822 | Stars 360 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Saint George : Beaver Dam Road : Beaver Dam Wall
By: tenesmus When: Nov 30, 2015

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Comments: OR, its just a rumor to keep the crowds away...
Maybe its a blue-streaked, 4-pitch mecca of tufas and pockets? Maybe its the Utah Hills version of Verdon?
Go find out for us.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Grail : Merely a Flesh Wound (5.10c)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Blocky fun. When you're trying to find this one, look for a distinctive mini-column 50-60' up.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Grail : Last Supper (5.11a/b)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Super fun movement. Work the feet so you can link the big holds.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Back Walls : Freezerburn (5.11b)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Don't be myopic about staying in the bolt line. Follow your gut and wander around a bit.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Back Walls : Who's Your Daddy? (5.10c)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: The warmups on the far right of the wall are good and probably more in line with what most people are used to climbing in other limestone areas. However, this is a little more sculpted and balancy, like the .11's and .12's that make the place famous. Sharp too.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag
By: tenesmus When: Oct 2, 2015

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Comments: Feels like the progression for BCC trad is to do the classic .6 and .7's. Then do everything at Bumble Bee for the .8 and .9 experience. Then come back here to Dead Snag and do the .9's and .10's. Then go to Psychobabble and freak out a little bit. Then come back here for the .11a.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Social Engineering (5.10b)
By: tenesmus When: Oct 2, 2015

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Comments: Wow! I find it difficult to not 'over-stoke'. The gear is great and plentiful, the climbing is mellow, the rests are huge, the movement varied and the crux headwall is nice and exposed. What more can you ask for an entry level 5.10. This feels much easier than Ad Lib and more secure than the .9+.

+1 for what Boissal, and ddriver said. Use a 70. The bottom is fine. If you were really freaked out you could place a # 1 or 2 camalot in a horizontal before you pull onto the ledge.
I forgot to... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Force of Nature (5.11a)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 30, 2015

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Comments: My favorite new BCC route in some time. Might be one of the 5 best in the whole canyon. I think its harder than Weedkiller in that it has plenty of rests but isn't as 'resty'. The rock kept me geeking out about the features and seams. Solid 5.11 climbing with great protection and/or nice jugs to get to the bolts. This whole wall is a huge addition to BCC climbing. Great style, unique movement, intriguing features in the rock.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Kidsmoke (5.12c)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 11, 2015

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Comments: Awesome!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : ... : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: Ah Ha! Someone finally pinned down the location of this mythical line! I've always looked up there and wondered where it went. Thanks for posting this!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Heisenberg (5.13a)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: If you're a mid .12 climber looking for a .13a to project, this could be a great candidate. Great gear that takes a lot less as you learn the bottom. I eventually cut it down from 6 pieces to 3 and it made a huge difference.

Persevere definitely pays off and the climbing is fun enough to keep you motivated. Another motivational trick is to invest a ton of time and energy into equipping a route, have your partner send, get another friend to take some nice photos, bring a bunch of other friend... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Altaworld : Silver Soul (5.12b)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: I'm hoping it cleaned up well. Thanks for adding this - the area needed more and there is a bunch of rock to choose from.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall : Tangent (5.10c)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: Wow this is fun! The line kinda jumps out at you and typical BCC gear is all there. Be sure to bring loads of long slings for the easier, upper section above the crux. Once the line takes you left and 10' above the anchors for VM/VC, its worth going up to the upper anchors out right, just for the views of Steorts and High Dive. Maybe bring a couple feet of chain to replace the webbing at that anchor. (Its in good condition but will equalize it for the long term.)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall : Vector Madness (5.10d)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: The route that gave the crag its name and for really great reasons. Just keep working the vectors and solutions open. It took us a minute to figure out what was going on with the keeper sling through the crux block. Thanks to whoever rigged that.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall : Vertical Component (5.10b)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: I'm a minimalist when it comes to using bolts but was really happy to have the new one. You can be a super trad man and skip them all but the gear will be super sketchy and out of character with the rest of the climb. The reason you're there is the steep, juggy section with all those perfect gear placements. This climb is perfect for .11a sport climbers trying to break into .10 trad because you'll find the great feet that give plenty of time for the really easy gear placements.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall : Halcyon (5.9)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: It would be tempting to go straight up and over the lip along the crack system that links the arete to the roof. However, there is hollow rock that needs cleaning. Be sure to go right at the base of the roof for really fun jug hauling.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall : Halcyon (5.9) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: It would be tempting to go straight up and over the lip along the crack system that links the arete to the roof. However, there is hollow rock that needs cleaning. Be sure to go right just like this photo for really fun jug hauling.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag
By: tenesmus When: Jul 30, 2015

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Comments: What time of day to those North Facing routes go into summer shade?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Moss Ledges : The Raw and the Cooked (5.11a)
By: tenesmus When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: I went back to this for the first time in years and found this route to be much more fun than I remembered. It isn't as straight forward as Wienie Roast but still uniquely fun. Typical BCC technique works well here. You know the one where you, "find the right position to lock off on a hold then paw around for the next hold and roll into the position that makes the new one a jug". Loads of cool gear in there. Seems like staying right after the bolts is more fun.

This route could use an indep... more >>


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Photo
By: tenesmus When: May 21, 2015

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Comments: Great photo! This would make a nice topo for the other lines.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Keel : Barking Up the Wrong Spider... (5.8)
By: tenesmus When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: 1) It's super cool that you realized your mistake, then figured out how to fix it. I always assumed that Bill Robbins was driving these creations, without even hearing Thomas' name.

2) While this is lower angle, there are more edges than smears. Undercling/sidepulls on a slab are really fun!

3) This thing had some rockfall sometime between the Koch and Perkins eras. (Hence the bolt placements) We'll see if the grade sticks but it's clean now.

4) Serious credit needs to be given to the previo... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Crack of Doom (5.11c) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: Nice shot. That's the crux for me.


Location: UT : Saint George : Underworld
By: tenesmus When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for pointing this out.

Here is the summitpost link


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Ice : Donorcicle (WI5) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Jan 15, 2015

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Comments: Great pic!


Location: Aaron James Parlier : A Few Boulders From The App... : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: dang.


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