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Member Since: Jan 7, 2004
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 212
Total Points: 2,616
Last Year: 15
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 2121 | Routes 52 | Areas 6 | Photos 279 | Page Improvements | Comments 615 | Posts 806 | Stars 359 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall : Vector Madness (5.10d)
By: tenesmus When: 4 hours ago

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Comments: The route that gave the crag its name and for really great reasons. Just keep working the vectors and solutions open. It took us a minute to figure out what was going on with the keeper sling through the crux block. Thanks to whoever rigged that.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall : Vertical Component (5.10b)
By: tenesmus When: 4 hours ago

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Comments: I'm a minimalist when it comes to using bolts but was really happy to have the new one. You can be a super trad man and skip them all but the gear will be super sketchy and out of character with the rest of the climb. The reason you're there is the steep, juggy section with all those perfect gear placements. This climb is perfect for .11a sport climbers trying to break into .10 trad because you'll find the great feet that give plenty of time for the really easy gear placements.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall : Halcyon (5.9)
By: tenesmus When: 7 hours ago

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Comments: It would be tempting to go straight up and over the lip along the crack system that links the arete to the roof. However, there is hollow rock that needs cleaning. Be sure to go right at the base of the roof for really fun jug hauling.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Vector Madness Wall : Halcyon (5.9) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: 7 hours ago

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Comments: It would be tempting to go straight up and over the lip along the crack system that links the arete to the roof. However, there is hollow rock that needs cleaning. Be sure to go right just like this photo for really fun jug hauling.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag
By: tenesmus When: 2 days ago

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Comments: What time of day to those North Facing routes go into summer shade?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Moss Ledges : The Raw and the Cooked (5.11a)
By: tenesmus When: Jun 23, 2015

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Comments: I went back to this for the first time in years and found this route to be much more fun than I remembered. It isn't as straight forward as Wienie Roast but still uniquely fun. Typical BCC technique works well here. You know the one where you, "find the right position to lock off on a hold then paw around for the next hold and roll into the position that makes the new one a jug". Loads of cool gear in there. Seems like staying right after the bolts is more fun.

This route could use an indep... more >>


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Photo
By: tenesmus When: May 21, 2015

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Comments: Great photo! This would make a nice topo for the other lines.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Keel : Barking Up the Wrong Spider... (5.8)
By: tenesmus When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: 1) It's super cool that you realized your mistake, then figured out how to fix it. I always assumed that Bill Robbins was driving these creations, without even hearing Thomas' name.

2) While this is lower angle, there are more edges than smears. Undercling/sidepulls on a slab are really fun!

3) This thing had some rockfall sometime between the Koch and Perkins eras. (Hence the bolt placements) We'll see if the grade sticks but it's clean now.

4) Serious credit needs to be given to the previo... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Crack of Doom (5.11c) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: Nice shot. That's the crux for me.


Location: UT : Saint George : Underworld
By: tenesmus When: Jan 26, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for pointing this out.

Here is the summitpost link


Location: UT : Joe's Valley : Ice : Donorcicle (WI5) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Jan 15, 2015

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Comments: Great pic!


Location: Aaron James Parlier : A Few Boulders From The App... : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: dang.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Red Awaking (5.7 A4) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Oct 3, 2014

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Comments: This popped up on the home screen today. I'm trying to wrap my head around the massive rope drag he's about to live with.


Location: International : Africa : Malawi
By: tenesmus When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: There is rock all over the place but I wouldn't call it a climbing destination. These photos are between Blantyre and Mulanji. To be clear, I know nothing about the climbing here.






fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net...... more >>


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Narrows - North : Dirt (5.11d)
By: tenesmus When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Get ready to dig in for the crux clip at the 2nd or 3rd bolt (has a fixed draw this summer).


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Lower Narrows : Sweet Jeebus (5.11c)
By: tenesmus When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: From another site:
"Check out Sweet Jeebus, at the first Narrow, where the old 5.12 w/ fixed pins is. It has a small cave at the base of the wall. Sweet Jeebus is far left on the wall. This is probably the best sport route I have drilled. I would like a conformation on the grade."


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro... : Lower Narrows : In My Heel (5.11c)
By: tenesmus When: Jul 5, 2014

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Comments: Hey James, what's the deal with this limestone. It looks like a crushed conglomerate or something. Cool the way those pockets are lined with the crystals. I didn't climb this but wonder how much its cleaned up.


Location: UT : Stansbury Mountains : South Willow Canyon - Narro...
By: tenesmus When: Jul 5, 2014

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Comments: "Find your way to Main Street and turn left, heading west until you see the rec sign for North and South Willow Canyons. "

When you get to Main Street, West is going right. The street with the rec signs is actually called 'West Street'. When you come back through on your way to 15 you'll have lots of dust in your eyes and it'll be less obvious but look for Kearl Street.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Specter Wall : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Jun 25, 2014

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Comments: For several years, I've been tempted to want to add a line on the crazy, almost random edges between Specter and Apparition. Its fun to try and wrap my head around the small edges on vertical stone through the little overlap just right of Apparition's crux. However, a good friend helped me realize its a nice TR that doesn't need bolting. The line is probably mid .12 and likes cooler temps.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Romance on the Rocks (5.10d) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Nice view of that slab.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Red Corners : Book of Condolences : Xcess (5.12b)
By: tenesmus When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: This is a nice route to work for breaking into the grade. First crux teaches you to hike your feet and lean into your hands. The second is techie and if you boulder goes quick. The third and fourth really are endurancey redpoint cruxes.

Warm up on those weird routes right after you cross the creek because the .11's at this crag are unpleasant.


Location: WY : Laramie Range : Downey Park : Corduroy Rock : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: Super cool photo!


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Cottonwood Wash : Desert Mishap (5.10+ R) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Mar 9, 2014

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Comments: What's the story?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Fast Moving Train (5.11c/d)
By: tenesmus When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: I thought this was really fun and will do it again. Cool, techie moves in the middle, then a nice lock-off clip, loads of dynamic movement and pawing around topout. Super fun line.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : When the Cat's Away (5.11b)
By: tenesmus When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: Great moves on good stone. The cool parts about climbs like this is you get great stances from which to figure the moves out. Be ready to climb all the way through the chains.

We were just there on 2/6/14 and thought the cool old hangers were really bomber and the bolts were just fine. But then, what do we know anyway.


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