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Member Since: Jan 7, 2004
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 187
Total Points: 2,590
Last Year: 95
Last 30 Days: 1
59 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
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All (2067) | Routes (52) | Areas (6) | Photos (277) | Comments (595) | Posts (777) | Stars (356) | Ratings (4)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : American Fork Canyon : The Red Corners : Book of Condolences : Xcess (5.12b)
By: tenesmus When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: This is a nice route to work for breaking into the grade. First crux teaches you to hike your feet and lean into your hands. The second is techie and if you boulder goes quick. The third and fourth really are endurancey redpoint cruxes.

Warm up on those weird routes right after you cross the creek because the .11's at this crag are unpleasant.


Location: WY : Downey Park : Corduroy Rock : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: Super cool photo!


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Cottonwood Wash : Desert Mishap (5.9+ R) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Mar 9, 2014

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Comments: What's the story?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : Fast Moving Train (5.11c/d)
By: tenesmus When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: I thought this was really fun and will do it again. Cool, techie moves in the middle, then a nice lock-off clip, loads of dynamic movement and pawing around topout. Super fun line.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Holiday Wall : When the Cat's Away (5.11b)
By: tenesmus When: Feb 10, 2014

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Comments: Great moves on good stone. The cool parts about climbs like this is you get great stances from which to figure the moves out. Be ready to climb all the way through the chains.

We were just there on 2/6/14 and thought the cool old hangers were really bomber and the bolts were just fine. But then, what do we know anyway.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Early Bird : Hair of the Dog (5.12b/c)
By: tenesmus When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: I've gotten feedback that this is probably straight .12c. Its got an extra V4 crux before joining Early Bird but is way shorter.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Early Bird : Boing-oing-oing (5.10b/c)
By: tenesmus When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: I've gotten more feedback since this is cleaned and up its is probably .10d or .11a. Personally, I think this is easier and far, far less sustained than Tick Fever.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Early Bird : Early Bird (5.12a/b)
By: tenesmus When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: I've been told by several friends this might be .12c? I have no idea how to rate stuff because I often have to siege the stew out of it before I actually send. All I know is that its a heads up line with great rests between fun cruxes that keep coming after you. This is a great mid to late day winter route during high pressure systems and a great evening route in spring and fall.

I know a lot of people have gotten on it but don't know it its had a third ascent after Mike and I did it. If yo... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Moss Ledges
By: tenesmus When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: Actually, the Forest Service spent over a month her this summer ('13), removing all the signs they could find of human impact. The elderly couples who serve as campground hosts for the commercial vendor decided they didn't like picking up the trash that was everywhere. The FS couldn't pay to keep it clean either so they decided to rip it out. It was a lot cleaner this summer so we'll see how it goes in the future.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : North Ogden : Macabre Wall : ... : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Jan 24, 2014

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Comments: Choss mining often yields the biggest holds and this looks like a nugget of cool.


Location: celerystick : a : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Dec 31, 2013

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Comments: Check out Meat Puppets!


Location: RKM : Photos of history and frien... : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: This might be the coolest of your gallery! Very cool.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: Crazy cool perspective from top to bottom.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Cult Classic (5.10+) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Dec 4, 2013

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Comments: cool photo.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Grand Canyon National Park : Zoroaster Temple : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: This is an awesome photo, George.


Location: ParkerKempf : Climbing Pics : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: I've seen a few of those round hangers on older lines. What are they?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lonely Bashie Buttress : Lonely Bashie Buttress (5.9) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Nov 28, 2013

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Comments: Actually Zoso, I'm pretty sure the description for this buttress matches yours but the topo doesn't.
Cool looking lines up there.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : El Segundo (5.11-)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: I'd forgotten about that funky crossover but had to do it that way too! Kinda cool body tension to make it happen. I resisted it and climbed up and down several times till I just gave in and did it. Then the fingers are just so locker.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Blue Collar Crack (5.9)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: Mr Hummus, its the Redneck Slab


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Erni... (5.10a R) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Anyone know if this goes to the right or left of the climber here?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Enter the Dragon (5.11-)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Very much worth the hype! Pitch 1 is one of the best 5.10 pitches in the canyon. Highly varied, great gear with two nicely placed bolts. If you're a .10 leader, this is a must do. Don't be intimidated by the beginning wide crack as it's probably only 5.8 with a cool lip inside through most of it. And, you can rap from the top of this pitch with a single 70. I think this is way cooler than Mexican Crack - even though that is still a classic.
The last pitch was also super cool. I've seen a ... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Heisenberg (5.13a)
By: tenesmus When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: Brian - the cool part is that when one of the pins ripped out it took a nice block with it. The dyno move is made from the unique lip/edge created by the removed block. In that vein, we had to put a couple of the bolts higher than optimal but where the best rock was. We're putting a couple of steel perma-draws on those bolts. Even I'm not that tall.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Above and Beyond Wall : Do or Dive (5.10d)
By: tenesmus When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: John said, "Ruckmansí topo shows another pin after the second roof, but I didnít see it." Which is true and kinda spooky. You can get in a couple of sizes of tcu's before you pull that second roof but they are reachy and kinda blind. But then I'm not very tall so maybe someone with longer arms wouldn't have trouble calling it .10d.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Above and Beyond Wall : The Leak (5.10)
By: tenesmus When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Second on what Jared said about the rocks for that first piece of gear are all gone. This makes getting to the first bolt much, much harder and fully runout. Its probably easy .11 but I didn't have the guts to go that way, opting for the left entry at 5.8 RR a-la the Coffin. If you want to go direct, adding a bolt would be warranted.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Above and Beyond Wall : The Leak (5.10) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: The rocks for that first piece of gear are all gone. This makes getting to the first bolt much, much harder and fully runout. Its probably easy .11 but I didn't have the guts to go that way, opting for the left entry a-la the Coffin. If you want to go direct, adding a bolt would be warranted.


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