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Member Since: Jan 7, 2004
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact tenesmus

Point Rank: # 238
Total Points: 2,641
Last Year: 52
Last 30 Days: 24
72 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has tenesmus been climbing?










Contributions


All 2178 | Routes 53 | Areas 6 | Photos 276 | Page Improvements | Comments 641 | Posts 829 | Stars 369 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coalpit Gulch : Waterfall Wall : The 40th Loss (5.10c)
By: tenesmus When: 6 days ago

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Comments: This has a cool crux move that forces you to get after it on the OS burn. It's all there and you'll shake your head in shame if you don't at go for it! (read: ...and have to take like I did) Super safe bolting so go for it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : ... : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Note that we added an anchor on that ledge so you can bring up a belayer and work it with less rope stretch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Straight to Rehab (5.12a)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: We were thinking that maybe it would be nice to stick clip the second bolt but didn't need it. If you need the second clipped to work the problem, just go in direct to the first bolt and unless you're an 11 year-old (ie, "fun-sized"; ie, "petite"; ie, "have no reason to live"), you should be able to reach up and pre-clip.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Tacos Diablos Boulder : Astroclay Verde (5.11d)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: Originally had a different name but I was outvoted. FA by Casey Hyer, Clay Watson and Mike Perkins and in no particular order.

You can finish via the rail traverse or by mantling over the top if you get freaked out by the sharpness. Its already way less snaggy than it was, but might be a good idea to drag a hammer or a rock along the lip and on the face behind the lip again.

It would be cool (mid-12.??) climbing to traverse right at the second or third bolt and into Tacos. That face is alre... more >>


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector : EBR-1 (5.11a)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: The first move feels kind of weird until you bump your feet up. We watched a ton of people suss this and as soon as they did the first foot move they hiked the rest. Great intro to the Fins.


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector : Dinner Roll (5.12c)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: I'm not always a .12c climber. (most of the time I'm not) But if you're a 5.11 climber, the pockets on after the 4th bolt are super fun. Worth pulling through the first few bolts if you get stumped.
Yep.
That good.


Location: ID : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector : Martini (5.12a)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: This is super fun! And don't forget to look for the no-hands rest a couple of bolts before the crux.


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Ruth Lake : Warrior Wall : Warrior Without a Cause (5.12b) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Aug 1, 2016

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Comments: I'm betting the rock didn't get good till up there. If that lower blocky stuff at his waist went...


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Iron Hayden Wall : Run To The Hills (5.11b) : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: This rock looks amazing!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Clay, Like Dirt (5.9)
By: tenesmus When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: I tried to name it something else but Drew over-ruled me.
Fun climbing in that you have huge holds for your hands and smeary feat. Kind of like a .9 version of Multiplicity.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : The Ripping Wall (5.10d)
By: tenesmus When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: The second pitch links improbable features.
The third pitch has uncommonly good edges that sweep you up and left into the crux.
The wind rips and tears around you as you top out near the highpoint of the formation.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Sidekick (5.8 PG13)
By: tenesmus When: Jun 14, 2016

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Comments: This might be the quickest and easiest way to the top of the Flakes.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Trinity Right (5.12a)
By: tenesmus When: Jun 8, 2016

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Comments: We usually take turns leading for the first few laps and have the last person clean through.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Gully of Higher Education : Tuition Hike (5.12a)
By: tenesmus When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: This is a lot of fun. Climbs like a nice v4 + a redpoint crux. Great warmup for The Professor.


Location: UT : Saint George : Beaver Dam Road : Beaver Dam Wall
By: tenesmus When: Nov 30, 2015

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Comments: OR, its just a rumor to keep the crowds away...
Maybe its a blue-streaked, 4-pitch mecca of tufas and pockets? Maybe its the Utah Hills version of Verdon?
Go find out for us.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Grail : Merely a Flesh Wound (5.10c)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Blocky fun. When you're trying to find this one, look for a distinctive mini-column 50-60' up.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Grail : Last Supper (5.11a/b)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Super fun movement. Work the feet so you can link the big holds.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Back Walls : Freezerburn (5.11b)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Don't be myopic about staying in the bolt line. Follow your gut and wander around a bit.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Back Walls : Who's Your Daddy? (5.10c)
By: tenesmus When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: The warmups on the far right of the wall are good and probably more in line with what most people are used to climbing in other limestone areas. However, this is a little more sculpted and balancy, like the .11's and .12's that make the place famous. Sharp too.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag
By: tenesmus When: Oct 2, 2015

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Comments: Feels like the progression for BCC trad is to do the classic .6 and .7's. Then do everything at Bumble Bee for the .8 and .9 experience. Then come back here to Dead Snag and do the .9's and .10's. Then go to Psychobabble and freak out a little bit. Then come back here for the .11a.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Social Engineering (5.10b)
By: tenesmus When: Oct 2, 2015

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Comments: Wow! I find it difficult to not 'over-stoke'. The gear is great and plentiful, the climbing is mellow, the rests are huge, the movement varied and the crux headwall is nice and exposed. What more can you ask for an entry level 5.10. This feels much easier than Ad Lib and more secure than the .9+.

+1 for what Boissal, and ddriver said. Use a 70. The bottom is fine. If you were really freaked out you could place a # 1 or 2 camalot in a horizontal before you pull onto the ledge.
I forgot to... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Force of Nature (5.11a)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 30, 2015

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Comments: My favorite new BCC route in some time. Might be one of the 5 best in the whole canyon. I think its harder than Weedkiller in that it has plenty of rests but isn't as 'resty'. The rock kept me geeking out about the features and seams. Solid 5.11 climbing with great protection and/or nice jugs to get to the bolts. This whole wall is a huge addition to BCC climbing. Great style, unique movement, intriguing features in the rock.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coalpit Gulch : Waterfall Wall : Kidsmoke (5.12c)
By: tenesmus When: Sep 11, 2015

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Comments: Awesome!!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : ... : Photo
By: tenesmus When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: Ah Ha! Someone finally pinned down the location of this mythical line! I've always looked up there and wondered where it went. Thanks for posting this!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Heisenberg (5.13a)
By: tenesmus When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: If you're a mid .12 climber looking for a .13a to project, this could be a great candidate. Great gear that takes a lot less as you learn the bottom. I eventually cut it down from 6 pieces to 3 and it made a huge difference.

Persevere definitely pays off and the climbing is fun enough to keep you motivated. Another motivational trick is to invest a ton of time and energy into equipping a route, have your partner send, get another friend to take some nice photos, bring a bunch of other friend... more >>


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