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Clearing the roof section


Member Since: Feb 4, 2008
Last Visit: Jul 14, 2014
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Point Rank: # 1,025
Total Points: 611
Last Year: 17
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 211 | Routes 7 | Areas 1 | Photos 100 | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts 3 | Stars 43 | Ratings 31
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Hide and Seek (5.7)
By: Ted Smith When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Great Trad lead for the grade with fun movement and nice exposure.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingergrip (5.8)
By: Ted Smith When: May 25, 2014

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Comments: From the top of the first pitch of Fingertrip, the best of Fingergrip can be accessed. Heading straight for the upper part of the left-facing dihedral, you will see a dwindling finger crack with a piton in the midsection. Clip the piton and step right on steep slab. Leaning into the dihedral as you let go of the finger crack, there will be a moment of freedom from any hand holds, then you are in the dihedral and moving up. Spicy and fun! Not recommended with anything less than a 70 meter, a... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Morrell's Wall : Mutt (5.9)
By: Ted Smith When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: Honestly, the first pitch felt almost like a 5.9. The second pitch was more like 5.7. I'm wondering if someone got the ratings mixed up . . . both pitches being a lot of fun! The top anchors have chains and a rap ring--as do the middle anchors. Sweet Climb!!!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Garber's Chimney (5.3)
By: Ted Smith When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: I went back and led it again. The second time, it was much easier--probably only 5.7 or so. :-) The pro is just a little tricky at the crux, or you can just run it out. ;-)


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Vuluptuous Ham (5.5 R)
By: Ted Smith When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: If one uses a blue (#4) big bro between the horizontal and the first bolt, a gold (#5) big bro can be used up higher so that the climb is well protected--particularly if both bolts are clipped. I'm guessing that would make it a 5.8 route, since climbing through the bolts is old school 5.8 (Jim Waugh). Great bolts and hangers!!!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Morrell's Wall : Sinbad (Variation) (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Ted Smith When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: Don't even think about falling on the bolt on the upper wall below the last bolt. Fortunately, the crux doesn't come until after clipping the top bolt, which is a very good looking bolt and hanger--I'd say it is a Waugh special--very sturdy and confidence inspiring.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Morrell's Wall : Leave It To Beaver (5.9)
By: Ted Smith When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: The chimney pitch might be 5.9+, but the top pitch is surely very stiff, even at 5.10 a/b. Definitely old school!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Obediah (5.9)
By: Ted Smith When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: While I agree with Greg that there is some climbing "around it" at the finger crack, there were also a couple crucial finger locks that were absolutely essential in completing the upper part of the finger portion. I thought it was loads of fun, but I am relatively inexperienced with 5.9 finger cracks--this was my first such onsight. Woohoo!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Burger King (5.8)
By: Ted Smith When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: Today, I did the 5.9 variation of Burger King that is described in Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing Arizona", copyright 1999. on pg. 348, he says, "This route ascends a blocky buttress behind some oak trees. Face climb up the outside of the buttress to its top. Continue up easier rock behind to the rim."

The drawing on page 349 portrays a line exactly like the bottom of "Swedish Britfast Crack" at 5.10 PG13. I would have to agree with that rating, for the arete section. Stewart says, "not cl... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Swedish Britfast Crack (5.10 PG13)
By: Ted Smith When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: Today, I got on the start of this climb, thinking it was Burger King--based on the description from the AZ Falcon Guide circa 1999. In that guide, Burger King is listed as 5.9-, so it seemed feasible, but somewhat unlikely. Using the tree, I got established on the overhung start, then stepped up and started placing tricky nut placements--including two #6 brassy offsets (DMM). I continued up the arete until it eased off, and I finished on the 5.7 easy out as shown in the picture above. ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.7)
By: Ted Smith When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: Excellent Summer climb! Had the entire wall to ourselves this Tuesday. Cracks and chimneys provide natural air conditioning.. Started route about 8:30 and in the shade almost entirety of day, including excellent descent trail. Only bad part was hike to car at 2:30 pm with temp over 100.

Pitch 3 squeeze is fabulous! Give it a 7 plus pg13 though due to sparse gear and technical footwork! A green big bro was nice for the crux.

Great day!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Bunny Slope (5.8)
By: Ted Smith When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: On toprope, I found this route to be much trickier and immensely more difficult than the popular 5.9 route to the left. I also have red pointed the other 9 across the wall--which is also a bit tricky to lead, but much easier than this so-called 5.8. The moves through the first wall crack were about as hard as the crux on KGB. The upper section about 15 ft below the anchors was at least 10c if you don't stem the chimney on the right. Even the bulge below those two closely-spaced bolts was ... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Hwy 87 : Jacks Canyon : Swiss Wall : Gouda (5.9)
By: Ted Smith When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: The jugs felt gouda to me! ;-)


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Sven Towers : ... : Sail On (5.7)
By: Ted Smith When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: ZEric is probably talking about the main route on Sven Tower II. It goes at 5.6, with three pitches possible. It is best to do that route with the first pitch about 100 ft. and then just linking the top two pitches at 130 ft. or so.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Baby Woolsey (5.8)
By: Ted Smith When: Feb 6, 2013

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Comments: One would have to be insane not to get into that hand crack at the top for a great finish! Phoenix Rock II fails to mention the second pitch, but I think the hand crack is stellar, bumping this climb up to 2 stars.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Garber's Chimney (5.3)
By: Ted Smith When: Feb 6, 2013

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Comments: I don't know how to rate this lead, but suffice it to say that I led a 5.8 chimney/off-width at Iso Canyon this past Fall, and Garber's is SIGNIFICANTLY harder! Chalk it up to smooth polished granite with little purchase to be found. What an excellent place to practice technique tho!!! I'm going to repeat it until it is easy!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Cactus Flower East : Black Sunday (5.10a/b)
By: Ted Smith When: Aug 15, 2011

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Comments: I attempted a lead on this today with a left exit variation that joins the top of Banana Crack and Mystical Adventures. While challenging at about 5.8, this makes for an aesthetically pleasing climb--and the Black Sunday anchors make for an easy descent.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Ted Smith When: Jan 26, 2011

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Comments: I must have miscalculated a bit. I figured 25 ft. of rope out from the belay with 15 ft. above the last piece of pro. That calculates to a fall factor of 1.6 according to myoan.net/climbart/climbforcec.... That's about 8.2 kN, which would definitely concern me, because even bomber placements can have little imperfections like a skewed--side-stressed or gate-opened Karabiner. Is my calculation really that far wrong? I know pictures can be deceptive. Thanks, btw, for the discu... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Ted Smith When: Jan 4, 2011

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Comments: I also noticed that the fall factor is extreme in this picture if the lead should happen to slip. Not only would he knock out the belayer--and possibly the photographer--but he would probably strain the system to the point of failure. Double jeopardy! Am I missing something obvious? This climb is definitely above my grade, but I someday hope to be ready for it. Is it not possible to protect this section any better than this?

Nice photos, by the way!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Morrell's Wall : Beat Feet (5.7)
By: Ted Smith When: Oct 2, 2010

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Comments: PG-13 is for the off-width near the top. I protected with both a C4-#5 and C4-#4, but still got about 10 ft. above last piece while making somewhat delicate moves near the exit to top. The rest of the climb felt solid for protection.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Mars Attacks (5.9 PG13)
By: Ted Smith When: Sep 27, 2010

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Comments: I believe the first pitch was once 5.8, but sandstone wears with traffic, and there are crux moves that require incredible finesse using palm and finger friction on smooth surface to keep the feet from slipping off. For that reason, I would call it 5.9+ on the first pitch. The second pitch has one bulge move that requires some hunting and a long reach to get a bomber hand hold to secure a 5.8 move. Some may not have the wingspan to make this connection, bumping the difficulty to 5.9 or so, du... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Sven Towers : ... : Right Rib (5.6)
By: Ted Smith When: Sep 27, 2010

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Comments: This route can be easily done in two pitches with a 60 meter rope counting the crack section that runs to the top of Sven Tower III. The lower long pitch is the money pitch, with little thrill to the top section from my pov. The slightly overhung off-width roof (shown in the picture) is the crux, but can be climbed without using off-width technique. Actually, a good lead to get experience on mixed trad and sport, but might be a bit intimidating at the crux.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : ... : Photo
By: Ted Smith When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: I climbed the Classic yesterday and this picture is looking up the third pitch--as I climbed the route--from the belay point. Note the off-width nature of the first roof immediately in the foreground. I found a Camalot #6 protected it perfectly . Without it, a slip on the off-width moves would mean a nasty fall and possible broken ankle. Why not protect???

Also, it was only possible to protect the ramp--approx 40-50 ft of it with a Camalot #4 and #5. While the ramp is not... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Loafer's Choice Slab : Dead Meat (5.7)
By: Ted Smith When: Nov 9, 2008

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Comments: Easy to protect overhang with .75 cam and runner. The second bolt is on the upper face before the transition to arete. A runner and #1 cam in the upper crack before the second bolt is helpful--especially if a shorter climber. The third bolt is on the upper arete, with the final bolt at the top section. There are three hangers on top of the climb for anchoring, so a long piece of webbing is helpful to set it up.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : AMC Boulder : Reunion (5.8 R)
By: Ted Smith When: Mar 23, 2008

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Comments: Two bolts are intact as described in the photos. Protection can easily be added midway between the bolts by an easy traverse to Varicose--removing the R rating. Fun 5.8!


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