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Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying a belay for the second pitch of 'Mars Att...


Member Since: Feb 4, 2008
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact Ted Smith

Point Rank: # 872
Total Points: 846
Last Year: 235
Last 30 Days: 136
5 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ted Smith been climbing?










Contributions


All 270 | Routes 16 | Areas 1 | Photos 127 | Page Improvements | Comments 36 | Posts 3 | Stars 54 | Ratings 33
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Sven Towers : ... : Undercling (5.7)
By: Ted Smith When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Three total bolts that I know of for this route. One more above the roof up another 40ft or so.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Sven Towers : ... : Backbone (5.7)
By: Ted Smith When: 6 days ago

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Comments: All bolts were replaced with 1/2 inch ASCA supplied Power Bolts--burly and secure! The first bolt was lowered about 8 inches due to poor rock quality surrounding the placement. New placement inspires confidence and preserves original line without an issue getting to the second bolt.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Sven Towers : Sven Tower 3
By: Ted Smith When: Feb 3, 2016

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Comments: This tower may have quietly become the most impressive climbing area in the McDowell Mountains. With 250 feet of high quality granite from base to summit, an easy approach, and a broad variety of climbing grades and styles, Sven 3 rivals Gardeners Wall, Sven Slab area, and even Tom's Thumb in attractiveness to a wide range of climber types. A few have kept this area to themselves as a hidden jewel but a growing number of climbers are discovering her charms--and the classic lines hidden amidst ... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Sven Towers : ... : Spinal Tap (5.8+)
By: Ted Smith When: Jan 12, 2016

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Comments: Go to Video of "The Move"


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Sven Towers : ... : Spinal Nerve (5.9+)
By: Ted Smith When: Jan 10, 2016

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Comments: Gear is needed prior to clipping the first bolt in order to protect the anchor and belayer. This route is very fun and well worth the trouble of setting up natural anchor and protecting the belayer. It is a bit 'nervy' to lead, though. :-)


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Sven Towers : ... : Backbone (5.7)
By: Ted Smith When: Jan 10, 2016

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Comments: As of 1-9-16, the bolts are badly in need of replacement due to poor original placement--holes too shallow, old bolts, wrong angle, and hangers improperly oriented due to surrounding rock. Lead with caution until i can get them replaced with better bolts.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Bird on a Wire (5.10a)
By: Ted Smith When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: I only took a single set of wires and ran out. Also, I used all 5 of my hexes on the crux pitch--trad anchors only. Could have placed 10 hexes easily on the middle pitch. Cams just weren't very secure due to the irregular crack system--except for smaller and micro-cams which were good. Single cams .5 to 3 and doubles 00 to .4 would suffice--with double hexes in .5 to 2 inch range and double offset nuts like the DMM alums together with a few regular nuts would have been perfect. This climb, ... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : ... : Photo
By: Ted Smith When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Paul! :-)


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Sven Towers : ... : Photo
By: Ted Smith When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Notice the piton for Shark Attack just to the left of the climber's right hand on Shark Tooth. Stay off the upward facing flake and follow the bolt line to make the climb more sustained with an increase in grade of one level.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Sven Towers : ... : Photo
By: Ted Smith When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: More than one placement available, but something between .3 and .75 should be good. A purple link-cam works for sure.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Hide and Seek (5.7)
By: Ted Smith When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Great Trad lead for the grade with fun movement and nice exposure.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Fingergrip (5.8)
By: Ted Smith When: May 25, 2014

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Comments: From the top of the first pitch of Fingertrip, the best of Fingergrip can be accessed. Heading straight for the upper part of the left-facing dihedral, you will see a dwindling finger crack with a piton in the midsection. Clip the piton and step right on steep slab. Leaning into the dihedral as you let go of the finger crack, there will be a moment of freedom from any hand holds, then you are in the dihedral and moving up. Spicy and fun! Not recommended with anything less than a 70 meter, a... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Morrell's Wall : Mutt (5.9)
By: Ted Smith When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: Honestly, the first pitch felt almost like a 5.9. The second pitch was more like 5.7. I'm wondering if someone got the ratings mixed up . . . both pitches being a lot of fun! The top anchors have chains and a rap ring--as do the middle anchors. Sweet Climb!!!

Update: 12/1/15--after time to think and review old ratings, this climb is trickier to protect on the first pitch than several 5.7 climbs in the area and requires large gear to protect from serious injury if you fall. If you are a 5.1... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Garber's Chimney (5.3)
By: Ted Smith When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: I went back and led it again. The second time, it was much easier--probably only 5.7 or so. :-) The pro is just a little tricky at the crux, or you can just run it out. ;-)


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Vuluptuous Ham(ster) (5.8 R)
By: Ted Smith When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: If one uses a blue (#4) big bro between the horizontal and the first bolt, a gold (#5) big bro can be used up higher so that the climb is well protected--particularly if both bolts are clipped. I'm guessing that would make it a 5.8 route, since climbing through the bolts is old school 5.8 (Jim Waugh). Great bolts and hangers!!!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Morrell's Wall : Sinbad (Variation) (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Ted Smith When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: Don't even think about falling on the bolt on the upper wall below the last bolt. Fortunately, the crux doesn't come until after clipping the top bolt, which is a very good looking bolt and hanger--I'd say it is a Waugh special--very sturdy and confidence inspiring.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Morrell's Wall : Leave It To Beaver (5.9)
By: Ted Smith When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: The chimney pitch might be 5.9+, but the top pitch is surely very stiff, even at 5.10 a/b. Definitely old school!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Obediah (5.9)
By: Ted Smith When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: While I agree with Greg that there is some climbing "around it" at the finger crack, there were also a couple crucial finger locks that were absolutely essential in completing the upper part of the finger portion. I thought it was loads of fun, but I am relatively inexperienced with 5.9 finger cracks--this was my first such onsight. Woohoo!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Burger King (5.8)
By: Ted Smith When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: Today, I did the 5.9 variation of Burger King that is described in Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing Arizona", copyright 1999. on pg. 348, he says, "This route ascends a blocky buttress behind some oak trees. Face climb up the outside of the buttress to its top. Continue up easier rock behind to the rim."

The drawing on page 349 portrays a line exactly like the bottom of "Swedish Britfast Crack" at 5.10 PG13. I would have to agree with that rating, for the arete section. Stewart says, "not cl... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Swedish Britfast Crack (5.10 PG13)
By: Ted Smith When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: Today, I got on the start of this climb, thinking it was Burger King--based on the description from the AZ Falcon Guide circa 1999. In that guide, Burger King is listed as 5.9-, so it seemed feasible, but somewhat unlikely. Using the tree, I got established on the overhung start, then stepped up and started placing tricky nut placements--including two #6 brassy offsets (DMM). I continued up the arete until it eased off, and I finished on the 5.7 easy out as shown in the picture above. ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.7)
By: Ted Smith When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: Excellent Summer climb! Had the entire wall to ourselves this Tuesday. Cracks and chimneys provide natural air conditioning.. Started route about 8:30 and in the shade almost entirety of day, including excellent descent trail. Only bad part was hike to car at 2:30 pm with temp over 100.

Pitch 3 squeeze is fabulous! Give it a 7 plus pg13 though due to sparse gear and technical footwork! A green big bro was nice for the crux.

Great day!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Bunny Slope (5.8)
By: Ted Smith When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: On toprope, I found this route to be much trickier and immensely more difficult than the popular 5.9 route to the left. I also have red pointed the other 9 across the wall--which is also a bit tricky to lead, but much easier than this so-called 5.8. The moves through the first wall crack were about as hard as the crux on KGB. The upper section about 15 ft below the anchors was at least 10c if you don't stem the chimney on the right. Even the bulge below those two closely-spaced bolts was ... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Winslow Areas : *Jacks Canyon : Swiss Wall : Gouda (5.9)
By: Ted Smith When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: The jugs felt gouda to me! ;-)


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Sven Towers : ... : Cary'd Away (5.7)
By: Ted Smith When: May 1, 2013

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Comments: ZEric is probably talking about the main route on Sven Tower II. It goes at 5.6, with three pitches possible. It is best to do that route with the first pitch about 100 ft. and then just linking the top two pitches at 130 ft. or so.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Baby Woolsey (5.8)
By: Ted Smith When: Feb 6, 2013

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Comments: One would have to be insane not to get into that hand crack at the top for a great finish! Phoenix Rock II fails to mention the second pitch, but I think the hand crack is stellar, bumping this climb up to 2 stars.


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