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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Atlantis : Bunny Slope (5.8)
By: Ted Smith When: 21 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: On toprope, I found this route to be much trickier and immensely more difficult than the popular 5.9 route to the left. I also have red pointed the other 9 across the wall--which is also a bit tricky to lead, but much easier than this so-called 5.8. The moves through the first wall crack were about a hard as the crux on KGB. The upper section about 15 ft below the anchors was at least 10c if you dont stem the chimney on the right. Even the bulge below those two closely-spaced bolts was ha... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Jacks Canyon : Swiss Wall : Gouda (5.9)
By: Ted Smith When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The jugs felt gouda to me! ;-)
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Sven Towers : ... : Sail On (5.7)
By: Ted Smith When: May 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ZEric is probably talking about the main route on Sven Tower II. It goes at 5.6, with three pitches possible. It is best to do that route with the first pitch about 100 ft. and then just linking the top two pitches at 130 ft. or so.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Baby Woolsey (5.8)
By: Ted Smith When: Feb 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: One would have to be insane not to get into that hand crack at the top for a great finish! Phoenix Rock II fails to mention the second pitch, but I think the hand crack is stellar, bumping this climb up to 2 stars.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Pinnacle Peak : Garbert's Chimney (5.3)
By: Ted Smith When: Feb 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know how to rate this lead, but suffice it to say that I led a 5.8 chimney/off-width at Iso Canyon this past Fall, and Garbert's is SIGNIFICANTLY harder! Chalk it up to smooth polished granite with little purchase to be found. What an excellent place to practice technique tho!!! I'm going to repeat it until it is easy!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Cactus Flower East : Black Sunday (5.10a/b)
By: Ted Smith When: Aug 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I attempted a lead on this today with a left exit variation that joins the top of Banana Crack and Mystical Adventures. While challenging at about 5.8, this makes for an aesthetically pleasing climb--and the Black Sunday anchors make for an easy descent.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Ted Smith When: Jan 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I must have miscalculated a bit. I figured 25 ft. of rope out from the belay with 15 ft. above the last piece of pro. That calculates to a fall factor of 1.6 according to www.myoan.net/climbart/climbforcecal.html. That's about 8.2 kN, which would definitely concern me, because even bomber placements can have little imperfections like a skewed--side-stressed or gate-opened Karabiner. Is my calculation really that far wrong? I know pictures can be deceptive. Thanks, btw, for the discu... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: Ted Smith When: Jan 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also noticed that the fall factor is extreme in this picture if the lead should happen to slip. Not only would he knock out the belayer--and possibly the photographer--but he would probably strain the system to the point of failure. Double jeopardy! Am I missing something obvious? This climb is definitely above my grade, but I someday hope to be ready for it. Is it not possible to protect this section any better than this?
Nice photos, by the way!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Morrell's Wall : Beat Feet (5.7)
By: Ted Smith When: Oct 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: PG-13 is for the off-width near the top. I protected with both a C4-#5 and C4-#4, but still got about 10 ft. above last piece while making somewhat delicate moves near the exit to top. The rest of the climb felt solid for protection.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Mars Attacks (5.9 PG13)
By: Ted Smith When: Sep 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe the first pitch was once 5.8, but sandstone wears with traffic, and there are crux moves that require incredible finesse using palm and finger friction on smooth surface to keep the feet from slipping off. For that reason, I would call it 5.9+ on the first pitch. The second pitch has one bulge move that requires some hunting and a long reach to get a bomber hand hold to secure a 5.8 move. Some may not have the wingspan to make this connection, bumping the difficulty to 5.9 or so, du... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Sven Towers : ... : Right Rib (5.6)
By: Ted Smith When: Sep 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route can be easily done in two pitches with a 60 meter rope counting the crack section that runs to the top of Sven Tower III. The lower long pitch is the money pitch, with little thrill to the top section from my pov. The slightly overhung off-width roof (shown in the picture) is the crux, but can be climbed without using off-width technique. Actually, a good lead to get experience on mixed trad and sport, but might be a bit intimidating at the crux.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : ... : Photo
By: Ted Smith When: Jul 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed the Classic yesterday and this picture is looking up the third pitch--as I climbed the route--from the belay point. Note the off-width nature of the first roof immediately in the foreground. I found a Camalot #6 protected it perfectly . Without it, a slip on the off-width moves would mean a nasty fall and possible broken ankle. Why not protect???
Also, it was only possible to protect the ramp--approx 40-50 ft of it with a Camalot #4 and #5. While the ramp is not... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : Loafer's Choice Slab : Dead Meat (5.7)
By: Ted Smith When: Nov 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy to protect overhang with .75 cam and runner. The second bolt is on the upper face before the transition to arete. A runner and #1 cam in the upper crack before the second bolt is helpful--especially if a shorter climber. The third bolt is on the upper arete, with the final bolt at the top section. There are three hangers on top of the climb for anchoring, so a long piece of webbing is helpful to set it up.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : AMC Boulder : Reunion (5.8 R)
By: Ted Smith When: Mar 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two bolts are intact as described in the photos. Protection can easily be added midway between the bolts by an easy traverse to Varicose--removing the R rating. Fun 5.8!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Pinnacle Peak : AMC Boulder : Mickey Mantle (5.8+)
By: Ted Smith When: Feb 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found this climb to be a confidence builder, being a fairly new climber. The thin wall was challenging while the overhang was more scary than difficult. Will take some time before I am ready to lead it due to the fairly high first bolt.
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