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Member Since: Dec 17, 2002
Last Visit: Aug 15, 2014
Contact Ted Lanzano


Point Rank: # 1,965
Total Points: 286
Last Year: 26
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ted Lanzano been climbing?










Contributions


All 130 | Routes 16 | Areas 1 | Photos 15 | Page Improvments | Comments 36 | Posts 13 | Stars 33 | Ratings 16
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Choose Life (5.13d)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: The original ascents did not use the rest that you mentioned. From the mail slot below the crux, we went up and left to the hueco, got a quick shake, and continued into the crux. I recall looking at that rest out right, but it seemed kind of funky to go over there.


Location: WY : Yellowstone National Park
By: Ted Lanzano When: Nov 2, 2013

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Comments: Does anyone know the name and grade of the high boulder problem above the pullout road in the Hoodoos? I think it's somewhere around v7-v8. I did this several years ago and I thought it was really good. The landing zone is right on the pullout road and it's a good idea to have a spotter/blocker direct cars away as you climb.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : Chaos Canyon Bouldering : ... : Interference aka Geeks of t... (V7)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: My brother Stan and I did this problem in the summer of 2001, and we called it Interference because of the huge tree draping the boulder. We had to clean some of the dead tree limbs or we would have gotten seriously impaled had we fallen from the top. Pretty sweet climb.


Location: CO : Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma : Haus Rock : Burning Down the Haus (5.13d)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Oct 8, 2013

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Comments: I also thought upper half of Burning Down the Haus was stout. For a somewhat easier variation, climb the burly first half of the route to the third bolt and finish on the crack out right. This is called Halfway Haus and is around 5.13 b/c. Or, do the opening boulder problem of Burning Down the Haus and link into Sky Pilot at the second bolt. This link is slightly easier than Halfway Haus but still packs a punch all the way to the top jug. Good times at Haus Rock!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Aug 20, 2013

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Comments: I hope the bolts the stay. I thought Archangel was a fantastic pitch with the bolts. I think it would be a loss if it reverts back to a dangerous climb that few if any will ever do.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock : Honey Badger (5.13a)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Thanks, Ben and Chandler, for a great addition to Overhang Rock and Flatirons climbing. Super fun route.

I noticed the right anchor bolt is a bit loose. I hand tightened it as much as I could, but it needs a wrench.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Desdichado (5.13+)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Mar 29, 2012

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Comments: I'm looking for a partner to climb on Desdichado. If you're interested, send me an email at tlanzano@gmail.com.


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : The Pool Wall : Bell Curve A.K.A. Silent Bu... (5.13b)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: This is a fun rock climb, but there is a lot of loose rock at the ledge between the second and third bolts. A lot of the holds I grabbed were loose or covered in rock dust, making the high third clip pretty sketchy. I cleaned and brushed as much as I could, but a more thorough cleaning with a hammer and a big brush is needed to make this safe for the climber and the belayer.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihed... (5.9+) : Photo
By: Ted Lanzano When: Jul 10, 2011

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Comments: That looks like a very crowded rock climb. Can't you people take turns?!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock
By: Ted Lanzano When: May 22, 2011

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Comments: All of the routes on Overhang Rock’s west face have been upgraded with half-inch, stainless steel hardware, and the old bolts and anchors have been removed and holes patched. The list of upgraded routes includes Snake Watching, Tits Out for the Lads, The Big Picture, Missing Link, Short Attention Span, and a Chorus Line.

A special thanks to the volunteers for your awesome work - Matt Samet, Terry Murphy, Chris Weidner, Brian Lichtenheld, Dan Levison, Greg Bilinski, and Ted lanzano. Also, tha... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : The Sea and Mirror (5.10c)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Oct 12, 2009

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Comments: Yesterday we replaced all the bolts and achors with stainless-steel, half-inch bolts and hangers. This is a nice warm up if you're heading up to the Slab.

Thanks to the Anchor Replacement Initiative, OSMP, Access Fund and the Flatirons Climbing Council.

ARI Volunteers: Ted Lanzano, Kevin Riley and Matt Samet.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Slave to the Rhythm (5.13b)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Aug 13, 2009

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Comments: The big rest is called the Bath Tub.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Ghetto : Hunting Humans (V8)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Oct 27, 2008

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Comments: The left heel hook was too sketchy for me, so I just released the knee bar and repositioned my right foot in the hueco, and then grabbed some of the ears. Such a great problem!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Never a Dull Moment (5.12b PG13)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Aug 12, 2008

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Comments: Brink, I think this is the first time I've heard you say a Bo-can route is harder than the grade given... Are you ok? :) PS - I have to give you back Jess' pack, sorry for the delay.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Captain Hook (V9)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Jul 6, 2008

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Comments: For the V5 beta, you can actually do the entire problem with both feet hooked on edge. To do this fine method (not really), start by getting your feet established in the double hook using the ground and a few holds on the roof. Once in the hook, bring your hands back down to the start for the official beginning. Then it's pretty easy to crimp your way to the finishing lip all the way from the start. This is a total party trick and fairly ridiculous, but lots of fun!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : April Fools (5.11b)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Jun 23, 2008

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Comments: Thanks, Matt and Paul, and props to you guys for your efforts. It was great updating these routes with you yesterday. There are still routes to be replaced up there, and if anyone is ever interested, let one of us know.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Tiempos de Ceguera (Times o... (5.13b)
By: Ted Lanzano When: May 16, 2008

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Comments: Thought I'd let you know that I broke a hold just right of the 4th bolt of this climb. Now the top crux is pretty darn hard, especially if you ascend via the face crimp holds and not the arete. I think an alternative sequence could still go for some strong dude/dudette. Sorry folks!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Box : Discipline (5.12b)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Apr 20, 2008

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Comments: The old ring bolts and anchors have been replaced with half inch, stainless bolts. Still need to patch and camo the old bolt holes, and replace old hardware on Cornucopia. Thanks to ARI, OSMP, Matt, Stan and Greg.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Red Wall : Red Wall Traverse (V8)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Dec 3, 2007

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Comments: Peter, I think we used different sequences on this. From the LH crimp in the pod (at the end of the rail system), I went up right to the crimp, left hand above to the pocket (1" above), and then finished Right Side of the red wall. I saw the video on your blog (which is of the ending problem of the traverse), and it looks you had a different (and rather hard) way to get into the right side of hte red wall. Maybe your method is the more proper traverse beta, not sure. Regardless, a great traver... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Crazy Fingers (5.12a/b PG13)
By: Ted Lanzano When: May 10, 2007

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Comments: Agreed, this route is totally classic. The rock is super solid, it doesn't get much traffic, delicate moves, and lots of other sweet climbs nearby as well.

There isn't much gear for the start of the climb, but the climbing isn't too hard. Once you get in the first good piece (blue/black offset Alien) from the jug ~15 feet up, you move into the crux and you have to make a high reach to get in the next thin pieces. This can be a bit pumpy and scary, but you're first piece is pretty good.

T... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : First Overhang : First Overhang (V6)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Feb 25, 2006

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Comments: First Overhang is still a great problem even though some of the good holds have broken. I love the tenuous crimps on the top leading to the final chuck to the lip. Felt like V7 to me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Beer Barrel Boulder : The Beer Barrel Loop (V9)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Oct 29, 2005

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Comments: After the west-side traverse, continue around the corner (tricky) and top out on the north-east side (listed as the NW corner on this site) of the boulder with several tenuous slopes and a heal. The loop is more like V8 or V9.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Chains of Love (5.12b)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Aug 8, 2005

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Comments: A couple of thoughts on Chains of Love:

- We did this climb as one long pitch and a 60 meter rope did NOT get me to the ground. Even though our rope had been chopped about 5 feet, I was still about 10 - 15 feet from the bottom when we ran out of rope. The belayer worked his way up to the first bolt to get me down.Lower slowly and be sure to tie a knot at the end of your rope!

- There are two cracks to choose from on the first trad section.We chose the right hand one(which looked like the... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Pin Dome : Big Sky Corner (5.12c/d)
By: Ted Lanzano When: May 23, 2005

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Comments: This is one of the best climbs I've done in Boulder Canyon.After the grassy ledge, the climbing is sustained, very technical and fun. Unlike a lot of climbs these days, Big Sky Corner requires precise technique and not just strength. Not over until you clip the chains.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tungsten Mine Shaft : Heart of Darkness (5.13)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Dec 13, 2004

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Comments: I am curious if anyone has beta for the fifth clip, which is the clip right above the roof and at the end of the crux.I can't find holds good enough to let go and clip with the right hand. The only thing I can think of is to skip the clip, but if you blow it high on the lip you risk hitting the ledge below. Any thoughts would be appreciated.Thanks in advance!




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