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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Desdichado (5.13+)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Mar 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm looking for a partner to climb on Desdichado. If you're interested, send me an email at tlanzano@gmail.com.
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Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : The Pool Wall : Bell Curve A.K.A. Silent Bu... (5.13b)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Sep 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun rock climb, but there is a lot of loose rock at the ledge between the second and third bolts. A lot of the holds I grabbed were loose or covered in rock dust, making the high third clip pretty sketchy. I cleaned and brushed as much as I could, but a more thorough cleaning with a hammer and a big brush is needed to make this safe for the climber and the belayer.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Unnamed 9+ (5.9+) : Photo
By: Ted Lanzano When: Jul 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: That looks like a very crowded rock climb. Can't you people take turns?!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Overhang Rock
By: Ted Lanzano When: May 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: All of the routes on Overhang Rock’s west face have been upgraded with half-inch, stainless steel hardware, and the old bolts and anchors have been removed and holes patched. The list of upgraded routes includes Snake Watching, Tits Out for the Lads, The Big Picture, Missing Link, Short Attention Span, and a Chorus Line.
A special thanks to the volunteers for your awesome work - Matt Samet, Terry Murphy, Chris Weidner, Brian Lichtenheld, Dan Levison, Greg Bilinski, and Ted lanzano. Also, tha... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : The Sea and Mirror (5.10c)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yesterday we replaced all the bolts and achors with stainless-steel, half-inch bolts and hangers. This is a nice warm up if you're heading up to the Slab.
Thanks to the Anchor Replacement Initiative, OSMP, Access Fund and the Flatirons Climbing Council.
ARI Volunteers: Ted Lanzano, Kevin Riley and Matt Samet.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Slave to the Rhythm (5.13b)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Aug 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The big rest is called the Bath Tub.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Ghetto : Hunting Humans (V8)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The left heel hook was too sketchy for me, so I just released the knee bar and repositioned my right foot in the hueco, and then grabbed some of the ears. Such a great problem!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Never a Dull Moment (5.12b PG13)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Aug 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brink, I think this is the first time I've heard you say a Bo-can route is harder than the grade given... Are you ok? :) PS - I have to give you back Jess' pack, sorry for the delay.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Captain Hook (V9)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Jul 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: For the V5 beta, you can actually do the entire problem with both feet hooked on edge. To do this fine method (not really), start by getting your feet established in the double hook using the ground and a few holds on the roof. Once in the hook, bring your hands back down to the start for the official beginning. Then it's pretty easy to crimp your way to the finishing lip all the way from the start. This is a total party trick and fairly ridiculous, but lots of fun!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : April Fools (5.11b)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Jun 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Matt and Paul,and props to you guys for your efforts. It was great updating these routes with you yesterday. There are still routes to be replaced up there, and if anyone is ever interested, let one of us know.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Tiempos de Ceguera (Times o... (5.13b)
By: Ted Lanzano When: May 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought I'd let you know that I broke a hold just right of the 4th bolt of this climb. Now the top crux is pretty darn hard, especially if you ascend via the face crimp holds and not the arete. I think an alternative sequence could still go for some strong dude/dudette. Sorry folks!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Box : Discipline (5.12b)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Apr 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The old ring bolts and anchors have been replaced with half inch, stainless bolts. Still need to patch and camo the old bolt holes, and replace old hardware on Cornucopia. Thanks to ARI, OSMP, Matt, Stan and Greg.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Red Wall : Red Wall Traverse (V8)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Dec 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Peter, I think we used different sequences on this. From the LH crimp in the pod (at the end of the rail system), I went up right to the crimp, left hand above to the pocket (1" above), and then finished Right Side of the red wall. I saw the video on your blog (which is of the ending problem of the traverse), and it looks you had a different (and rather hard) way to get into the right side of hte red wall. Maybe your method is the more proper traverse beta, not sure. Regardless, a great traver... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Crazy Fingers (5.12a/b PG13)
By: Ted Lanzano When: May 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed, this route is totally classic. The rock is super solid, it doesn't get much traffic, delicate moves, and lots of other sweet climbs nearby as well.
There isn't much gear for the start of the climb, but the climbing isn't too hard. Once you get in the first good piece (blue/black offset Alien) from the jug ~15 feet up, you move into the crux and you have to make a high reach to get in the next thin pieces. This can be a bit pumpy and scary, but you're first piece is pretty good.
T... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : First Overhang : First Overhang (V6)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Feb 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: First Overhang is still a great problem even though some of the good holds have broken. I love the tenuous crimps on the top leading to the final chuck to the lip. Felt like V7 to me.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Beer Barrel Boulder : The Beer Barrel Loop (V9)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Oct 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: After the west-side traverse, continue around the corner (tricky) and top out on the north-east side (listed as the NW corner on this site) of the boulder with several tenuous slopes and a heal. The loop is more like V8 or V9.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Chains of Love (5.12b)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Aug 8, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A couple of thoughts on Chains of Love:
- We did this climb as one long pitch and a 60 meter rope did NOT get me to the ground. Even though our rope had been chopped about 5 feet, I was still about 10 - 15 feet from the bottom when we ran out of rope. The belayer worked his way up to the first bolt to get me down.Lower slowly and be sure to tie a knot at the end of your rope!
- There are two cracks to choose from on the first trad section.We chose the right hand one(which looked like the... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Pin Dome : Big Sky Corner (5.12c/d)
By: Ted Lanzano When: May 23, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is one of the best climbs I've done in Boulder Canyon.After the grassy ledge, the climbing is sustained, very technical and fun. Unlike a lot of climbs these days, Big Sky Corner requires precise technique and not just strength. Not over until you clip the chains.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tungsten Mine Shaft : Heart of Darkness (5.13)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Dec 13, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am curious if anyone has beta for the fifth clip, which is the clip right above the roof and at the end of the crux.I can't find holds good enough to let go and clip with the right hand. The only thing I can think of is to skip the clip, but if you blow it high on the lip you risk hitting the ledge below. Any thoughts would be appreciated.Thanks in advance!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Undercling Traverse (V9)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Nov 1, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool, thanks. Ted
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cloud Shadow : Undercling Traverse (V9)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Nov 1, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know where the start is for Reverse Undercling Traverse? Thanks.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Red Wall
By: Ted Lanzano When: Sep 23, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another way to use the pocket that Michael refers to (on the lower left side of the Red Wall) is via the Red Wall Traverse (I think that's the name). This starts towards the right side of the wall and works left on the lower jugs to a stab to the left pocket (crux). Top out from there. Probably around V7.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : Rainbow Wall (5.13a)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Sep 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the grade on this Eldo classic is solid 13b. Besides being a damn hard route to begin with, some holds have broken off and the foot holds on the 2nd crux (after the rail) have gotten very polished. To me it felt a lot harder than Captain Crunch (13a/b) and more comparable in difficulty to the Web (13b).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Gyro Captain (5.12b)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Jul 24, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: After doing the route earlier this winter, I felt it was around 12b. Maybe the bouldery and short nature of the climb just fit my style, not sure. In any case,it's a great line and worth climbing, especially if you dont like to hike, or have a lot of time.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : Cold War (5.12c)
By: Ted Lanzano When: Mar 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great climb, but this route does not have its own anchors. You can use the Web's anchors, but this involves either a 10-15 foot dicey traverse or reaching down from the top of the slab (scary without gear).
I believe the first ascent goes to J.B. Tribout
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