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Casaval Ridge, Mt. Shasta, 2009


Member Since: Jul 20, 2009
Last Visit: Jul 8, 2014
Contact Taylor Morgan


Point Rank: # 3,639
Total Points: 117
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
4 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Taylor Morgan been climbing?










Contributions


All 48 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 19 | Page Improvments | Comments 12 | Posts 1 | Stars 8 | Ratings 7

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs : The West Slabs (5.5)
By: Taylor Morgan When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: Agreed - unless you're a beginner or uncomfortable soloing multiple pitches of 5.4, it's best just to leave the rope at home and do the walk off.

I don't think it's "bad form" to rap the route using existing gear (unfortunately there's plenty of bolts), but please don't leave any more girth-hitched webbing, which already strangles every tree in sight (feel free, however, to leave lots of cams/nuts for Boissal).

If you must rap, learn how to rap on a single rope using a block, rather than wasti... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : The West Slabs : The West Slabs (5.5)
By: Taylor Morgan When: Jun 11, 2012

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Comments: If you plan to rappel the route, be aware that the bolts at the 3rd pitch belay have been chopped. Natural anchor options abound.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Weavers Needle : West Chimney (5.0)
By: Taylor Morgan When: Mar 9, 2011

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Comments: "Climbed" this route last week. Beautiful scenery and location. Started from Peralta Trailhead at 7:30 AM. Reached Fremont Saddle (using Peralta Trail) within two hours, then had to route-find/bushwack to the southest corner of Weavers Needle to reach the chute.

Reached the base of the chute at noon and the summit within an hour. We were back to the base around 2 PM, and back at the car at 4:30 PM, using the Bluff Springs Trail on the trip out (much longer than returning via the Peralta Tra... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Weavers Needle : Photo
By: Taylor Morgan When: Feb 23, 2011

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Comments: It appears these bolts have been placed in a partially-detached feature. Perhaps the view here is misleading.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Mt. Superior / Monte Cristo : South Ridge (5.4)
By: Taylor Morgan When: Jan 11, 2011

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Comments: Snowbird has proposed to build a roller coaster in Little Cottonwood Canyon, on the lower south face of Mt. Superior:

www.deseretnews.com/article/705364186/Snowbird-resort-seeks->>>


I strongly oppose Snowbird's plans to build a roller coaster on the lower south face of Mt. Superior, across from and over Little Cottonwood Canyon Road.

Snowbird claims the proposed site is not used by hikers or backcountry skiers. This is not accurate. The area is on th... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon
By: Taylor Morgan When: Jan 11, 2011

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Comments: Snowbird has proposed to build a roller coaster in Little Cottonwood Canyon, on the lower south face of Mt. Superior:

www.deseretnews.com/article/705364186/Snowbird-resort-seeks->>>


I strongly oppose Snowbird's plans to build a roller coaster on the lower south face of Mt. Superior, across from and over Little Cottonwood Canyon Road.

Snowbird claims the proposed site is not used by hikers or backcountry skiers. This is not accurate. The area is on th... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Eagletail Mountains : Courthouse Rock : Standard Route (5.5)
By: Taylor Morgan When: Dec 30, 2010

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Comments: This is a very easy, but fun, multi-pitch route that offers a rewarding summit. The bolted belay stations make it more of a sport than a trad route. Having said that, I actually appreciated the bolted belays, given the extremely poor rock quality.

There are only 3 moves on the entire route that could be classified as 5.4 (not 5.5). The rest of the route ranges from third-class to 5.3.

As ldsclimber mentioned, there are very few good gear placements due to poor micro/macro rock quality. I... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : Wonderwall (5.9 A3)
By: Taylor Morgan When: Aug 12, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for posting this route! It's nice to finally have some beta to supplement the Ruckmans' description.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Whitney : East Face (5.6) : Photo
By: Taylor Morgan When: Aug 8, 2010

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Comments: This is a great shot, Dave!


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Whitney : East Face (5.6)
By: Taylor Morgan When: Jul 30, 2010

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Comments: A friend and I climbed the East Face last week. Classic, fun route - more route finding and 4th class than actual climbing, but a must-do in the Sierra.

We started late in the day and didn't top out until after dark. There was still snow at the Notch and on the Mountaineer's Route, so we spent a cold night in the summit hut. I would certainly recommend starting earlier in the day - there's no sunshine on the route after 2:00 PM.

Take one set of cams, one set of stoppers, and a dozen slings.... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains : Northwest Pinnacles : ... : Razor's Edge (5.6)
By: Taylor Morgan When: Jul 22, 2009

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Comments: Fun climb, but some very shady rawls. For as many ascents as this route sees, a local with time/resources should look into replacing manky bolts. Rap anchors also questionable...


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : The Open Book (5.7)
By: Taylor Morgan When: Jul 20, 2009

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Comments: Anyone been up to the cirque recently? I'm wondering how water/snow conditions are. Considering an attempt in early August.