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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sacred Cow Wall : Fatted Calf (5.11-) : Photo
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: reds reds reds...
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Location: AZ : Le Petit Verdon (aka The Pi... : The Oven : Running Man (5.12b)
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Jul 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool route.. Thin and delicate to start, then bouldery and powerful, then a sloper finish. Agree on the stick clip, if only because clipping off that tiny crimp HURTS. ow
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Unnamed 9+ (5.9+)
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: May 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed, four blues is all you need.
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : The Obsidian Wall : Heart of Darkness (5.9+ R)
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Apr 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful stone and cool moves. This would be a serious lead but is easily toproped.
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Davidson Dihedral (5.11+) : Photo
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Apr 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It looks like it was a bit greener back in those days...
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Lost Canyon : Shangri-La (5.12+) : Photo
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Apr 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was only a matter of time until someone spouted that one...
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Hijinx in the Desert (5.11)
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Apr 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow.. The guidebook calls this 11- now.. What a sandbag! The move around the lip of the roof seemed way harder than anything on any 11- anywhere, crazy knee bar beta and whatnot. Anyone know where to find the route "1. Unnamed 5.12 Hands out a roof to off fingers in a left facing corner"? A description that also fits Hijinx. Hmmm... We only found one route that fit that description. What gives?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Fuzz (5.10 PG13)
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Apr 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not quite, dude. We had a 70m and it was exactly enough. Maybe you were on a different route.
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : Davidson Wall : Queenfolia (5.10)
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Apr 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do you mean a #3 TCU Will? That's what I jammed into that flake today. I've seen people lead this without placing gear in the crux, but I can never make myself run it out. Hitting that ledge would hurt.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Volcanic Tablelands (Happie... : Happy Boulders : ... : The Sixty Foot Woman Traver... (V2)
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent problem, hard for the grade.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Roadwork Wall : Made in the Shade (5.9)
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Mar 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I retreated from this one when I saw how much vegetation was in the crack. Scare-wee
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Mar 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to the ASCA, Johnny Woodward, Darrell Hensell, SP Parker, and everyone else who invested their time in rebolting this area. Thanks also to Peter Croft and Marty Lewis for putting together such a nice guide. Now I am psyched to go climb there.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Roadside Rocks Bouldering : JBMF Boulders : ... : Photo
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: False Up 20.
Up 20 is a different problem... taller, scarier, and not as classic as False Up 20
Excellent photo though, of a cool problem.
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : Vertigo (5.9 A0 R) : Photo
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Mar 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Split-ter!
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : End Pinnacle : Days of Future Passed (5.10b PG13) : Photo
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Mar 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good pic of an exciting moment! My palms sweat at the memory of this pitch. Falling just before clipping that bolt would be a leg-breaker, for sure!
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Church Wall and Religion Wa... : The Planetarium : Mission To Mars (5.12d)
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Feb 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is definitely the coolest sport line I've had the pleasure to climb on. Thanks to Ted for rope gun duty.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Church Spires Area : Church Wall and Religion Wa... : The Planetarium : Sun Dogs (5.11c)
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Feb 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. Not too hard, but theres so many knobbly things to grab its hard to see the sequence. Although the rock isn't the greatest quality, the movement is enjoyable. Worth doing.
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Location: AZ : Le Petit Verdon (aka The Pi... : The Oven : Microwave (5.11c)
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Feb 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The boulder problem crux of this route, near the top, has one of the smallest holds you've ever seen on a 5.11. Good rock and movement, but short and not too sustained.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Anvil Rock : The Anvil Boulders : Stems And Seeds (V4-5)
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Jan 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is reachy... Probably more like V4 if you're very tall, could be V6 if you're very short.
Grade griping aside though, its a great problem regardless of your height. Just get on it. :)
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Unbelievable (5.12) : Photo
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Nov 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: attentive belayer...
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Photo
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Nov 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: WHY DO YOU TYPE ALL IN CAPS?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Gorilla (5.10)
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Oct 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not too bad if you have big mitts.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Chopped Liver (5.10+)
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is possible to do this route safely with nothing bigger than a (new) #4 c-4. To sew it up, bring triples from BD #0.5 to #3, and one (new) #4 c-4.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Tenderloins Wall : Heinz 58 (5.10+)
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A #0 metolius or blue alien protects the crux move to the anchor. Bring two if you are leery of cams that small in the sandstone. This is a very cool route, off fingers to tips on a low angle, featured wall. Feels like it belongs more in Red Rocks than at the Creek.
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Location: AZ : Priest Draw : Welcome Boulder A.K.A. Tria... : Microdots (V2)
By: Tavis Ricksecker When: Oct 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Talk about low ball! Still, worth doing if you havent done it already.
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