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Rock Climbing Photo: Rostrum


Member Since: Sep 24, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 2,538
Total Points: 271
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 394 | Routes 10 | Areas 1 | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 121 | Posts 49 | Stars 146 | Ratings 60
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Middle Cathedral Rock : Border Country (5.12c R)
By: tallmark515 When: May 17, 2016

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Comments: Pitches 1-7 are very heads up. Beware of pitch four, the topo is misleading, there are at least three different options that are not obvious on the topo.

P4 Option 1 is to go straight up the crack and continue up the lichen face above (and left of) the bolt, into flakes and eventually the corner above. Reportedly heads up but not as sketchy as option 2.

P4 Option 2, clip the bolt and traverse right, this looks sketchy as fuck, I started this way then backed off.

P4 Option 3, after the litt... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : ... : Photo
By: tallmark515 When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: Lol! No wonder it felt 5.13.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Ribbon Falls Area : Ribbon Falls Ampitheater : Gates of Delirium (5.12a)
By: tallmark515 When: Feb 24, 2016

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Comments: February 2016 condition report:
P1: Soaking, but easy enough to pull through on gear.

P2-3: The ledge off the belay was wet making the traverse harder, linked with P3 (70m rope) which was an amazing and dry pitch. Turning the arete was awesome as were the splitter hand cracks. Both pitches felt about 10b (except the 5.11 traverse).

P4-5: More amazing splitter cracks, mostly hands. Awesome corner. Annoying but fun tree hopping at top of P5. Linking is the way to go (70m rope). 10b

P6-7: A sh... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : The Super Slacker Highway (5.10a)
By: tallmark515 When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: 10m pitches, over bolted and contrived. This route is an abomination. The compressor route of Yosemite. We did it in 3 pitches.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Cascade Falls - Left : Fish Crack (5.12b)
By: tallmark515 When: Dec 10, 2015

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Comments: Start the route with an unprotected face traverse on knobs from left to right (5.8/9). Turn the corner to a chimney and a fist crack. This section protects with a #4 BD and a #3 BD on a double-shoulder length runner.

Turn back around the corner and move onto a perch and the start of the finger crack. Unclip the big cams to prevent rope drag and place a few pieces in the crack so you are safe. The finger crack eats up yellow alien and green alien sized cams. I brought 4x yellow size... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 14 - Cascade Area : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Desperado (5.11d)
By: tallmark515 When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: Vlad, regardless of which way you go at the start (chimney or arete), move back out to the arete above the second bolt and stem your way until you can move into a lieback off the edge of the left side of the chimney. Bust a few moves, clip a bolt then reach out to the good vertical edge under the roof with your left hand. Clip another bolt, move the feet, undercling, clip, another undercling, high right foot, left heel up over the roof, grab the jugs. Done!

You don't even have to do it now! Rea... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Higher Cathedral Rock : Mary's Tears (5.11a/b)
By: tallmark515 When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: A really great route with only a few short sections of loose rock. A much better way to start NEB, minus the crowds. Conserve your two #3's on p3 or bring an extra one.

P1 - Three variations:

1: Leftmost corner. Sort of dirty down low and a bit awkward for 50 feet, felt 5.9'ish. Then continues to a large OW looking flake that is actually easy and not OW, this section felt 5.8. Apparently there is an 11b option up here, but we couldn't find it, the 5.8 is the obvious way to go.

2: Midd... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 1 - Parkline Slab : Flying In The Mountains (5.11a)
By: tallmark515 When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: Stellar route! Incredible edging, sustained 5.10 on mostly awesome crimps and cracks and even a bit of slab. Pitch 3 (crux) is 4-stars as is most of the rest of the climb. The whole route is very safe, with maybe the exception being P5, which admittedly was "a bit heady" but the climbing was not very difficult.

We brought: Singles BD .75-2 and Doubles black Alien - red Alien, 14 draws.

First pitch has multiple starts, we started on the 5.10c bolted face (Homeworld p1?), past rap anchor to easy... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Leaning Tower Area : Fifi Buttress : Voyager (5.11c)
By: tallmark515 When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: First pitch felt sustained and pumpy with tricky gear at the crux (when the splitter finger crack begins to peter out).

On the sixth pitch traverse, stay below the second bolt.

We didn't bring a #4 and the the route still felt plenty safe, but both my partner and I found places where it would have been nice to have it on at least three separate pitches. It could also make the tricky gear section on P1, less tricky.

I would opt for three yellow alien sized pieces next time, either in pla... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 01 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Positive Vibrations (5.11a)
By: tallmark515 When: Sep 9, 2014

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Comments: FINAL PITCH BETA
Approximately 100' up the final pitch (Supertopo pitch 8) you will see a single bolt (just out of reach) on your left side (Supertopo optional belay). Near this spot you must traverse RIGHT on a small ledge with some broken rock to gain the final crack (not obvious) to the top. It's helpful to have three #2 Camalots if you plan to do it as one mega 200' pitch.

NOTE: If you don't do this traverse and keep going straight up, the route will continue up a chossy hand ... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 4 - Arch Rock : New Dimensions (5.11a)
By: tallmark515 When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: Can rap from the top with one 70m rope. This will take you to a bolted rap station to the right of the alcove. Then one more rap to the ground. Not sure if a 60m rope will be long enough.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Steck-Salathe (5.10-)
By: tallmark515 When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: We brought a set of offset nuts and a set of Mastercams from tiny to yellow and BD doubles to yellow, one #3, two #4's and one #5. Two #4's was not overkill.

The poster above (Sirius) has good descent beta, the Supertopo beta is worthless.

The route took us about 12hours, we kept up a pretty good pace, for the most part, but got slowed down on the wide crux pitches. We never got lost.

We brought 5 liters of water and drank it all by the time we got back to our packs... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Hemorroids in Flight (5.10c)
By: tallmark515 When: Jul 30, 2013

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Comments: Despite its uninspiring appearance from the ground, this route was actually really fun. A few delicate moves protected by 2 bolts down low (on the slab) take you up a flared hand crack (can supplement second bolt with a high #2) to an interesting flared pod (and another bolt). Lieback the edge of the pod, clip another bolt, grab the mini-jug to the left, place a .4 or a .5 in the roof crack (or not), then throw for the perfect hand jams over the roof and cruise up the easy 5th class anothe... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Creek Area : Manana (5.10d)
By: tallmark515 When: May 30, 2013

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Comments: sooooo good. Contender for one of the best pitches of crack climbing in the valley. Lots of splitter, off fingers and thin hands stuff, but surprisingly secure (except crux). Crux is at the top when the crack gets thin and requires a big, punchy move to rail up higher.

Spit me off at the top, but even the fall is clean! Shit!! Good stuff!!!

No crowds, in the shade until the afternoon. Next to other killer climbs. Do this!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Cathedral Spires Area : Higher Cathedral Rock : Book of Job (5.10)
By: tallmark515 When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: Incredible route!!!! Did this in three long, slow pitches. Linked 1 & 2, 3 & (part of)4, (part of)4 & 5.

Rapped off Blinded by the Light anchors, 3 double rope rappels to slung block at top of first pitch of Braille Book, then one more rap to the ground (4 total).

With the exception of a short section in the 5.9 squeeze chimney, gear is great the whole way. We brought triples of hand to fist sizes which was helpful when linking pitches. Brought one #5 and one #6. If we do it agai... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Fancy Dancin' (5.10b)
By: tallmark515 When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: First pitch is pretty chill (5.9?) crack for gear and most of the climbing is on knobs. Sorta heads up at the top, but not hard. The second pitch, 5.10b, is a one move wonder to a knob just above and to the right of the bolt anchor. I think the left variation is 5.12, according to the book.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Phantom Spires : Lower Spire : Five Tendons (5.10d)
By: tallmark515 When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: Crux is off the ground and pretty sustained until the 3rd bolt. Climbing then eases off until you gain a good ledge, then one more tricky 5.10- move and easy climbing to the top. Pretty good sporto route, the second good one I've done on lower spire.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Area : Daff Dome West Face : ... : Photo
By: tallmark515 When: Feb 7, 2012

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Comments: hey, that's me!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 1 - Parkline Slab : Homeworld (5.11a) : Photo
By: tallmark515 When: Apr 29, 2011

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Comments: Topo not the same as MP description.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Commitment (5.9)
By: tallmark515 When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Sort of awkward off the ground, the tree makes it easier though. Turning the improbable looking corner of the roof on the P3 pitch was stellar! Don't miss the hidden jug just around the corner.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Mr. Natural (5.10+)
By: tallmark515 When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Contrary to what the above poster said, I think this is harder than Bombs of Tokyo, P1 of Salathe and Lunatic Fringe. I onsighted all those routes and fell on this one.

Sustained 5.10 finger locks with great pods for feet for 75% of the route. Crux section comes 20 feet from the top and involves tips locks and foot smearing.

Super classic!!!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Apron Jam (5.9)
By: tallmark515 When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Burly old school 5.9 liebacking. Sorta felt like Open Book at Tahquitz. A worthwhile approach pitch to Mr. Natural, kind of an intense warm-up if it's your first climb of the day.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : The Surprise (5.10a)
By: tallmark515 When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Did the 3 pitch, Werners Ant Tree, to the 2 pitch Surprise combo, great route. 5.8 pitch is super fun and .10a thin hands/finger crack above was stellar.

Be mindful of your rope drag, belay early or suck it up and deal with the nuisance on easier terrain above the crux section of Werners.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Werner's Ant Trees (5.10c)
By: tallmark515 When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Not R, but kinda scary after moving out of the .10a lieback into the .10c section. Definitely no bolt, but there was a fixed nut, which my partner removed. There are other spots for small gear or nuts (I used a green c3) in a small pod to the climbers left (after moving out left from the lieback section).

Great pitch overall, great liebacking and fun face moves with good rests in between. A great first pitch variation to the surprise.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Unnamed (5.10a)
By: tallmark515 When: Sep 30, 2010

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Comments: Good lead, bolts near the hard spots and lots of varied climbing; face down low and crack/corner up high. Pretty clean for probably not getting much traffic.


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