Comments: Although moderate, this route is steep and exposed. Good climbing except for a bit of lichen, loose blocks and crunchy rock in the mentioned middle section. These attributes made for what felt like a full value pitch. The top of the buttress now has 3 bolts (no rap hangers).
Comments: for sure, stout climb...as my previous post ponders...this one is great training for other sandbagged 5.10 climbing at places like devils tower....cant wait to return to montana and battle with the tigger again!
Comments: It would be nice to have a set of chain anchors at the top of this buttress... time for a discussion? ..fixed anchors would allow parties to come up here and do all these pitches (well, maybe not Mens Rea!) quickly and rappel safely, as opposed to topping out, tearing down the gear anchor and having to solo the upper step to get off the formation. The day bozeman beautiful was put up i was forced to on sight solo the last step (5.5) in fading light...a heady move that is avoidable.
Comments: maybe i have this one wired, but all the locks feel pretty positive for me...10b seems reasonable considering the nature of climbing and grades in the canyon. the description abobve may be a little intimidating, as the gear is readilly available and bomber...not all that heady.
Comments: looks cool...although pulling with care is in direct opposition to my hamster style, which calls for indiscriminate yarding with maximum crushing force! exploding holds mid route only adds to my experience...