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wcp


Member Since: Feb 8, 2006
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact SW Marlatt


Point Rank: # 2,789
Total Points: 44
Last Year: 14
Last 30 Days: 2
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has SW Marlatt been climbing?


1 person gave this user's contributions a positive rating.











SW Marlatt

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (45) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (5) | Comments (9) | Posts (14) | Stars (8) | Ratings (8)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location  Useful To  Date

Sleepytime

5.6

Trad, 1 pitch

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : West Ridge - Verschneidung ...

Mar 16, 2006

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location  Great Image  Date
Above the roof - 1980

Above the roof - 1980

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Roof Route (5.10)

1 person

Mar 28, 2009

Rob, a little off-route, around 1980

Rob, a little off-route, around 1980

CO : Fort Collins : ... : Roof Route (5.10)

Mar 28, 2009

Forrest Titons

Forrest Titons

SW Marlatt : SWM Album

Jun 6, 2008

wcp

wcp

SW Marlatt : SWM Album

Mar 16, 2006

Sleepytime (original photo is Ivan Rezucha's shot of Morning Thunder)

Sleepytime (original photo is Ivan Rezucha's shot of Morning Thunder)

CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Sleepytime (5.6)

Mar 16, 2006

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Cornelius (5.5)
By: SW Marlatt When: Jun 15, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I completely agree about the attitude adjustment, and hope that someone will cleanly remove the bolts in the near future. As you say, it is ridiculously easy to build an anchor on top - with almost whatever rack you happen to be carrying (I think I used a couple stoppers and a mid-sized hex, but there are many, many, many choices.)

To whatever kind soul removes the bolts: please pull, rather than chop! That will keep the slap looking nice, and avoids leaving sharp nasties sticking out for nov... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Cornelius (5.5)
By: SW Marlatt When: Jun 15, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Were the bolts added on Sunday (7/14)? I had a group of scouts up there most of Saturday, and didn't see them...

Also - does the crack on the slab just to the right of Cornelius (left-arching line which joins Cornelius about 10 feet below the top) have a name? Short, but a fun little sequence of perfect hand jams.

swm


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Algae on Parade (5.7) : Photo
By: SW Marlatt When: Feb 16, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Just saw the picture and wondered if that was a Titon. Looks like a perfect placement for one...that's why I continue to carry a couple. (That and I enjoy the ribbing I get...)


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : West Ridge Traverse (V5)
By: SW Marlatt When: Dec 3, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Darn - with a name like that, I was hoping for a description of a full traverse of the West Ridge - say, a girdle traverse rising up from Morning Thunder and topping out around Knight's Move.


Location: CO : Palisade : Things Of Beauty (aka Inter... : Mad Dogs and Englishmen (C1+)
By: SW Marlatt When: Apr 17, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Um - not to nitpick, but if you're hammering in iron, shouldn't your rating (C1) reflect it. Say, A1 or A2?


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : TM Chimney (5.7+)
By: SW Marlatt When: Oct 11, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Very fun climb! However, and perhaps its just 30+ years of caving made this pretty comfortable, but I don't remember this being anywhere near 5.8. 5.7 maybe.

(Just noticed that Kopischka's Vedauwoo guide "Crack Country Revisited," 1982, lists the TM Chimney as 5.6 - typical grade inflation.)


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Bone Caves
By: SW Marlatt When: Aug 23, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: This is a pretty cool area - lots of options in a very nice setting. It looks like there might be some longer routes on the cliffs up behind the boulders as well.

When I was up here (October 2004), there was a fair amount of trash around some of the boulders - some of it obviously climber debris. If you are going up here, keep it clean. Pack out what you pack in, and a little more as well!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Sidetrack (5.9)
By: SW Marlatt When: Mar 16, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: Absolute agree on the 5th pitch - one of the nicest cracks you can imagine. We belayed at the top of the crack - short traverse left to a little, airy, very exposed perch, and worked up through the roof as a 6th pitch. The anchors here were a bit thin but ok (several small wires), but great position!

Wonderful route! You can bear off above the roof, or continue up and slightly right to top out (recommended).


Location: CO : Eagle/Vail : Lime Park (a.k.a. Lime Cree...
By: SW Marlatt When: Feb 8, 2006

view comment >>
Comments: As another long time climber and caver, I'd like to add my support to AC's comment - the caves in this area have been carefully protected for many years, and I'd hate to see them damaged by wanton bolting. Please, if you are going to climb here, be respectful of the setting and make every effort to minimize your impact!


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Movement climbing gymColorado & Rocky Mountain RegionSW MarlattJun 17, 2009
re: What is "detuning"?Ice ClimbingSW MarlattMay 22, 2009
re: Effects of Chlorine on Nylon RopeGeneral ClimbingSW MarlattApr 20, 2009
re: Self-Belay Lead climbingBig Wall and Aid ClimbingSW MarlattOct 8, 2008
re: Climbing music/lyricsCommunity ForumSW MarlattAug 15, 2008
re: Wanted: Forrest TitonsFor Sale / WantedSW MarlattJun 6, 2008
re: Favorite Climbing ReadsCommunity ForumSW MarlattDec 20, 2006
re: Hand JammiesClimbing Gear DiscussionSW MarlattNov 29, 2006
re: Favorite Climbing ReadsCommunity ForumSW MarlattNov 21, 2006
re: Au NaturaleTrad ClimbingSW MarlattJun 20, 2006
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