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Rock Climbing Photo: Beer Anyone?


Member Since: Jan 24, 2006
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
Contact susan peplow

Point Rank: # 202
Total Points: 2,923
Last Year: 100
Last 30 Days: 0
90 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has susan peplow been climbing?










Contributions


All 3070 | Routes 78 | Areas 7 | Photos 256 | Page Improvements | Comments 758 | Posts 460 | Stars 1169 | Ratings 342
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Photo
By: susan peplow When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: Very nice one!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Little Europe : On Cider (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 13, 2016

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Comments: Old-skool ratings on a new-skool route? Agreed, stiffer than 10a.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall : Two Pump Chump (5.11a)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 4, 2016

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Comments: @PINK, I think you've got those reversed.

First pitch technical and second more pump. Both excellent, second year and repeat has me bumping the star value. This route is as good as anything in Potrero.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Wonder Wall : Cooters on Scooters (5.10d)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 4, 2016

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Comments: This shady gem is more than a one move wonder. A few tricky spots will bring you to the final moves up a cool roof.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Wonder Wall : Ramsey's Shenanigans (5.9+)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 4, 2016

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Comments: Final 3rd pitch is easily skipped in lue of P3 of Evil Shenanigans. The combo of Ramsey with Evil finish is worth repeating.

The large ledge before the final pitches (choose your finale) can easily accommodates pulling the rope and finishing both pitches giving you a bonus 4th pitch. Perhaps that's Super Shenanigans?? Both members of your team psyched to lead Evil?? That works too.

Notables:
Ramsey's rope pull isn't as clean as Evil.
Ramsey > Evil anchors are about 17... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Las Agujas (The Spires) : Aguja Celo Rey (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 4, 2016

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Comments: P1 somewhat awkward getting established between bolts 1 & 2 not particularly run out with option to sling a constriction up high (bring runner), see other contributor notes - they are helpful. P1 gets a single star for climbing but adds a star for the cool peek-a-boo slot then the eye which is neat. The belay is deluxe with great views, large area and bomber anchor. Consider cocktails.

P2 - hey we lucked out... 1pm beginning of March means the sun is high and already rotated to the west... ... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : El Mirador : Yogi Unchained (5.10b/c)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 4, 2016

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Comments: The description of this climb by Tim Fry far surpasses the actual route itself.

P1 (P1/P2 combo) First pitch is ho-hum with the bonus of dirty holds and some loose rock- takes 7 draws to the anchor. P2 "the money pitch" is the bolted forced chimney. It appears from the bolted line that the FA party really wanted you to go inside the squeeze. Heck, that's why we went too! Unfortunately, the features are really further to the outside. Not to worry, the bolts are still easy enough to clip a... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Scrutinizer : Something old, Something Ne... (5.8)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 3, 2016

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Comments: 7 modern bolts albeit probably not all that "new". Chain anchor up and right which shares with Fupa.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : La Selva (Jungle Wall) : Jungle Mountaineering (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: 1st pitch is a nice warm up, if there is a crux it's the move before the last bolt. Small stance belay, easy to see your second. 5.9 - 7 bolts - One *

2nd pitch - more of the same slightly easier with little bulge mid-way losing sight of your partner. Still easy to see and communicate. Small stance belay - 8 bolts - 5.9- - One *

3rd pitch - you not only have gotten your groove on and traveling fast but it's probably 5.8. Angled but sufficient belay ledge with high bolt up and left from th... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Wonder Wall : Asombrame (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: If you don't notice the run-outs on the way up, you might on the way down while cleaning. 15'++ sections in more than a few places. First half pretty fun, but squeezes into the neighboring routes at the top making it difficult to not just escape to the 5.8 to the left. If you're in for pitch count, it's there and deserves a star and a trip.... otherwise. Better value on the wall.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Virgin Canyon : ... : Bad Cop, No Donut (5.11a)
By: susan peplow When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: After leading this route twice (over different years), I've been unable to do it "direct". I set off with VERY good intentions to go direct but yet still find the natural flow, slightly right. I may starts off directly over the bolts but to me, in the end, I flow to the right.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Mini Super Wall
By: susan peplow When: Mar 1, 2016

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Comments: In two separate trips I've done a handful of routes on this wall ranging from easy warm-ups to moderates. Both experiences were less than exciting and had us moving on quickly. The routes, best I can tell are heavily traveled, slick and overall just not that great. A single star, maybe a few or even a well hidden gem in the mix somewhere but if you're on limited time and want to get good routes in.... best to just move along. YMMV

Notably better climbing up at TNT.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Comic Book Area : The Dakota Domes : South Dakota Dome : Black Hills Gold (5.10c)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 22, 2016

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Comments: Pretty good, easily two stars. Fun movement, neat line and just enough awkward to make it interesting but not desperate. TR hero on my visit.... may adjust rating after lead. Whatever the grade, it's worth doing with it's easy approach, bolt protection & convenience anchors.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Cling or Fling Corridor : Beautiful Dreamer (aka Gull... (5.8)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 21, 2016

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Comments: Agree on description of sustained climbing keeps jabbing at you but bonus out of crack features saves the day. Nice climbing, neat rock. Walk off back and left down some boulders and skirt around the west to the base of the climb. Partner noted to save big gear for anchor or you'll need to go back (to the north) to set.


Location: CA : High Desert : Apple Valley Crags : Horsemen's Center : The Cemetery : ... : Return to Hell (5.11a)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 21, 2016

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Comments: Positive holds low and trends up and right. A perceptible crux with big reach leaving the 3rd bolt. Reachy but certainly doable even at 5'7" . The route as we read it continues to trend slightly right after the final bolt and desperately close to the middle route before gaining anchors. Good, fun, well bolted.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Virgin Canyon : ... : Stroking The Bishop (5.11-)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: That's unfortunate. My notes and memory is the first pitch is a bit chossy taking 10 draws and ending on a ledge with hidden anchor. At the time there was two new bolt holes but no additional anchor. Other mystery holes drilled along the way for no apparent reason. Second pitch took 6 bolts and was kinda technical and the worthy pitch. We bagged it from there skipping the less than stellar looking 3rd pitch and got done with a single 70m... just shy and scrambled the last few feet.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Virgin Canyon : ... : Sancho Panza (5.11a PG13)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: 6 bolts, long runner


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall : Motavision (5.10+)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: Perhaps 10 bolts? Not as good as neighboring Motavation, a bit awkward.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall : Motavation (5.11a)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: year old notes state 9 bolts.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall : Monkey Boy (5.11a)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: Notes reflect 10 bolts


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Las Estrellas (The Stars) : Landscaping (5.11c)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: Nearly a year later looking at the guidebook. My notes state, "sustained, many hard cruxes. Technical". YMMV


Location: Hawaii : Oahu : Mokule'ia Wall
By: susan peplow When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: I'm not sure why I thought there wasn't climbing in Hawaii but pretty excited to learn of my mistake. My niece lives nearby and frequent Dillingham Beach regularly....this crag is just up the road! I'm sure a visit is in my future and I'll be making certain to bring a the basic essentials for climbing too. Locals.... be on notice, I may be contacting you to partner up!


Location: CA : High Desert : Apple Valley Crags : Horsemen's Center : The Cemetery : ... : Necessary Evil (5.10b)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 14, 2016

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Comments: Pretty cool route and steep for the grade. Great clipping stances and didn't find the need to stick clip or any shenanigans.

Speaking of shenanigans.... lowering through the anchor IMO should be avoided. This area (like most) does not see regular anchor replacement so it's up to us as climbers to be better stewards.

If cleaning is a hassle and you don't have a partner to clean the draws consider a second lap, cleaning it up the second time.

Another method for tricky cleans is similar t... more >>


Location: CA : High Desert : Apple Valley Crags : Horsemen's Center : The Cemetery : ... : Route of All Evil (5.7)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 14, 2016

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Comments: This route has a great mix of super hand-holds, esthetics and slabby top out. A pretty neat combo for the grade and worth doing if you've hiked up there for the uber mega classic next door. Mystery bolt behind you at the block as you start up which is not needed, perhaps it's a belay bolt?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Capricorn Wall : Wounded Knee (5.10a)
By: susan peplow When: Feb 12, 2016

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Comments: The fun of this wall starts here. Go left to right and enjoy them all.


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