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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pino Wall & Jawbone : Pino Wall : License and a Visa (5.11b/c PG13)
By: suprasoup When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this on 10-04-09. On rappel using 2x60m's I was 10 feet shy of the P3 anchors. The rock is bomber! I used a Red Zero and Blue Zero for P1. Built an Alternate Anchor system (Red, Blue, Yellow Zero) at P4 station because I felt that the P4 anchors were too far right of the bolted line. I really felt like I needed a couple of inches to get through the crux of P2. P3 didn't feel like it had any .11 moves maybe tweenish .10's though getting to the first bolt of P3 is kinda hairy. A great route ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Priest Draw : Wifebeater Boulder (A.K.A. ... : Wifebeater (V8)
By: suprasoup When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: While I agree that Wifebeater is no V5, depending upon how one does the problem the ratings can be anywhere from a V6-V8+.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Manitoba/Montromery Trailhe... : The Particularly Nice One : The 10 (V10)
By: suprasoup When: Mar 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You know me too well:) You'll be surprised to know that I did use my feet on this climb. The reach to the sloper dish thing is pretty far for my height. Not sure where your right foot was but mine was on the right hand sidepull/pinch. The crux was moving off the sloper. The sharp tooth was pretty key cause I probably would have come off when I reached for the sloper, dunno I'll try it again in the next day or so.
You are probably right about the rating if you're comparing it to the red rum si... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Foothills Bouldering : Manitoba/Montromery Trailhe... : The Particularly Nice One : The 10 (V10)
By: suprasoup When: Mar 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I figured it was part of the whole "Outdoor Experience", you forget that this poser has only seen plastic holds for the last year or so. I swear that large tooth digging a hole in my left index finger was the only thing that kept me from blowing when I fired for that crappy sloper dish thing.
What's your take on the rating Lee? It didn't feel like a 10 to me, granted I haven't been outside in a long while.
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