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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Room With A View (A2+)
By: Stymingersfink When: Sep 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My response was more geared toward Josh...
and as far as the anchors went, I installed with what I had, I'm glad Luke upgraded it in the manner which he did. The aid line can still be climbed in the manner which I intended.. hooks to gear to more hooks.
As far as his free line following it goes, I would have to say not quite. The line I took would be impossible to free, as it was nothing more than a tight seam for the majority of the route. I've since had the opportunity to check out their wo... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Nosferatu (5.10b)
By: Stymingersfink When: Sep 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: the second bolt is located too close to the edge of the roof, resulting in potentially levering the biner's spine to the breaking point if one were to fall there.
The anchors need the chain extended a bit as well, as the current setup is less than desirable.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Room With A View (A2+)
By: Stymingersfink When: Sep 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Josh wrote: This tech. of drilling, sounds a little strange to me. Maybe we (climbers) should consider not climbing in this style. I think we have moved forword from hard aid to free climbing being more important these days.
I just got off the phone with Josh and I think he misunderstood this. These guys were just freeing an old aid line... nothing for us all to get our panties in a wad for. The line looks really good (for Potash) and when they get it cleaned ... more >>
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Ice : The Box Canyon Ice Climbs : Jesus Wept (WI6+ X) : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: Aug 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's the thickest I've ever seen that climb, looks like this past season was the one to get on it.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Room With A View (A2+)
By: Stymingersfink When: Aug 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some of the discussion occurring at the time I put this route up can be found here
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Theater of Shadows (5.7)
By: Stymingersfink When: Jun 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: a fine, fine route, with the best views in the City. I would recommend hitting this gem up in the late afternoon, such that you will be able to appreciate the route's namesake. Sitting on the summit, my partner and I became the ears of a bear! :)
Be sure to bring a beer or two for the summit, hang out and enjoy the view. We solo'd past a party who was kind enough to let us by, when they arrived we joined ropes and did a single rap to the gully.
The bolts, though plentiful, are well camo'd, so ... more >>
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Owen Spalding (5.4) : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: Jun 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: yes, very cool shot. When was this photo taken?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Provo Canyon : Provo Canyon Ice : Stairway to Heaven (WI5+ R) : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: Jun 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That shot(s) was actually taken in Feb. 06, the top 5 pitches were farmed. Early season P's 8-10 showed first, with a smattering of ice between it and the natural flows (P's 1-5). We were anxious for P5 to come in so we could see some "new" terrain. P7 was the last pitch to fully form, in climbing shape for about 10 days. Luckily there was a walk-around to bypass this, and it was frequently utilized. :)
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Zenyatta Mondatta (A3+)
By: Stymingersfink When: May 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, you like it..?
Rate the page :)
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Zenyatta Mondatta (A3+) : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: May 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably shot from the ledge at the top of ZM's P4.
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Location: robynladin : i love climbing! : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: May 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: what route?
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Location: Michelle Kemmer : Michelle's Photos : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: May 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: What's with the sky in this one? From the camera this way, or something in post processing?
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Location: Michelle Kemmer : Michelle's Photos : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: May 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: MinMeditation?
Nice. Kinda scary lookin' too!
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Location: Chris White : The Zodiac and Prow. : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: May 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's an all-day wait. I guess with the company you keep, that's not a bad thing!
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Location: Chris White : The Zodiac and Prow. : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: May 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tell me a friend hiked that up there for you, that it didn't sit in the Haul Bag the entire way up the wall!
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Location: icsteveoh : Cresent Crack : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: May 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If that 5th piece of gear were placed in the crack to the right instead of the left, it will help keep the rope out of the back of the crack it's lying in, reducing rope:rock friction.
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Location: Cowboy : Cowpics : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: May 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kick Ass, Cowboy!
She's gonna be one hell of a rope technician when she grows up, eh?
:)
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Sasquatch (5.9+)
By: Stymingersfink When: May 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: For a Traditional good time, lead it on all passive gear!
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Location: TP in SLC : Tea works : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: May 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: our Saviour of a Sea of Green, bringing salvation to the faithful!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Way Rambo (5.12-) : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: May 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: note to Polly:
drop me a line, I'll get you a copy better than a jpeg, k?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Way Rambo (5.12-) : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: May 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: and conversely (via observation), the smaller the hands and shorter the wingspan, the more difficult the exiting traverse moves tend to be.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Leaning Wall : Spaceshot (5.7 C2) : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: Apr 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: When I was there, I had purposefully left my hooks in my truck. Imagine my surprise then, when the second aid move turns out to be a hook! It shows so much wear, however, that I was able to slot a med-large BD stopper into it just long enough to reach the next bolt in the ladder.
Glad it held, otherwise it would have been a ground strike for sure.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Leaning Wall : Spaceshot (5.7 C2) : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: Apr 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot... a chance to check out the upper pitches and Earth Orbit ledge.
The climber at the haul bags is at the top of the first C1 pitch (P4), the lead climber appears to be at the decision point... which crack to choose, right or left?
Right is the goods, though from any higher on the route, retreat becomes more involved.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Fat Cat (5.11-) : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: Apr 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: NICE SHOT!
maybe a shorter DOF, but still very nice. :)
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Location: Richard Radcliffe : Misc. : Photo
By: Stymingersfink When: Apr 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: bowline on a bight, I'll give it that, but a TRIPLE?
I don't think so...
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