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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Texas Finger Crack (5.10+)
By: Stu Ritchie When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Indeed it was Chuck who led it. I belayed him, and Craig was there that day.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock : Photo
By: Stu Ritchie When: Jul 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Allen you may find this to be a "ridiculous sandbag". However, I and Dan Hutchins drilled it, alternating holes, by hand, on the lead, from stances and a sling over a knob. Both of us were able to red-point it hanging the draws and we thought that 5.12a was about right. We called it Mind Over Matter. In truth, I think the level of slab climbing in the Platte had evolved to an extremely high standard by the mid-'80s. The route to the right is called Weekend Warrior and checks in about 5.11b.
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Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Book of Saturday (5.11a R)
By: Stu Ritchie When: Jul 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of June 29, 2009 the rope ladder is in place. The rap from the base is about 100 meters left of the start, not 50 feet.
This is an excellent adventure route with an easy descent back down the climbing line. The rap pulls are remarkably clean. A very good effort by the FA party.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : Alberta : Bow Valley : ... : NE Buttress (5.6 PG13)
By: Stu Ritchie When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Alternatively, I've heard you may be able to rap Sisyphus Summits" Having done the route, I can say this would be a very foolish and dangerous idea!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Monument Valley : Shangri-La (5.10a A0 PG13)
By: Stu Ritchie When: Apr 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the summit of this formation I encountered a translucent scorpion. The only time I have ever seen such a critter in the desert!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Central Reservation Climbs : Lucky Strike Spire (5.9 A2)
By: Stu Ritchie When: Apr 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this formation with two other guys from Colorado in the 90's. While the climbing itself was not too difficult, we were a bit startled by the presence of one of the columns that had formerly been attached to the formation laying on the hardpan. As best as we could figure out (based on the cow tracks that seemed to go under the huge column) the easternmost part of the formation had come crashing down in the very recent past!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Autobahn (5.11+)
By: Stu Ritchie When: Apr 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route in the 80's with Eric Goukas. I recall it being very sustained and excellent! Back in those days, it was all the rage to climb using a 2" tubular swami belt and no leg loops! I shudder to think what would have happened if one of us were to have taken a long fall! As I think back, this route was quite demanding and it was only through the supreme confidence and drive of Eric that we succeeded in making what we believed to be the 5th ascent. Unfortunately, Eric was to die two ... more >>
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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The Tooth : Tooth or Consequences (5.10a)
By: Stu Ritchie When: Mar 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best granite routes in the Southwest! Some old 1/4' bolts could still use an upgrade!
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Question of Balance (5.11- PG13)
By: Stu Ritchie When: Sep 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super route! 1/4 inch bolts are not an issue on this route. We carried a 3 and 4 Camalot, but felt they were not mandatory. Only 4 hours from Denver!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Tiger Balm Arete (5.11b R)
By: Stu Ritchie When: Jun 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tony, and all familiar with variation I called "Eye of the Tiger" to the left of Tiger Balm. I placed the application for this route with the FHRC in 2001. It was open to inspection and public comment for several months. The final consensus was 12 positive and 4 negative comments. If you care to read the exact comments, check the FHRC archives. I have led both climbs several times and have found that one really needs to make an effort, and stray way off route to access the "new" bolts from Tiger... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Cleopatra's Needle Area : Angel Wing (5.10 A3)
By: Stu Ritchie When: Dec 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed the Bandito route with Brad Bond around 1997. When Brad started off to jumar the second pitch, a large portion of the belay ledge collapsed out from under him. I found the A-1 crack on the prow, shown in the old Bjornstadt guide, to be slippery # 1 cams. Also of note, I recall encountering a brass figurine of a sitting dog next to the summit anchors. Funny what props are left out in the desert!
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