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Rock Climbing Photo: portion control


Member Since: Aug 31, 2009
Last Visit: 19 hours ago
Contact stow

Point Rank: # 7,134
Total Points: 66
Last Year: 7
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 65 | Routes | Areas | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 11 | Posts 27 | Stars 7 | Ratings 9
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Wimp and Peel crux

Wimp and Peel crux

NH : *Rumney : ... : Wimp And Peel (5.12a)

Jul 20, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: About to fall again on the red point campus crux a...

About to fall again on the red point campus crux after the dyno.

NH : *Rumney : ... : Rocket Man (5.13d)

Oct 6, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Stow K. Happy in Slavery

Stow K. Happy in Slavery

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : Happiness in Slavery (5.12b)

Jul 15, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Alan G. with some unusual hand beta

Alan G. with some unusual hand beta

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : Meet Me in Heaven (5.12a)

Jul 15, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Elyse S. sending the Buffalo

Elyse S. sending the Buffalo

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : Great White Buffalo (5.11b)

Jul 15, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Alan Goodrich hanging on for the send

Alan Goodrich hanging on for the send

WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : Go Back to Colorado (5.12b)

Jul 15, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Alan Goodrich on Rap Echo slab weirdness

Alan Goodrich on Rap Echo slab weirdness

NH : *Rumney : ... : Rap Echo (5.12b)

Jun 18, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Antonio on super slab #1

Antonio on super slab #1

NH : *Rumney : ... : The Skewer (5.12d)

Sep 19, 2012

Rock Climbing Photo: portion control

portion control

The People of Mountain Proj... : stow : misc

Jun 4, 2012

Rock Climbing Photo: in advance of a badly sprained ankle...

in advance of a badly sprained ankle...

NH : *Pawtuckaway : ... : Ride the Lightning (V6)

Jan 3, 2012

Rock Climbing Photo: I fell from here SO many times until I was told me...

I fell from here SO many times until I was told me about the L toe hook/scum to get the last crimp. Thanks Walker!

NH : *Rumney : ... : Dynosoar (5.13a)

Apr 25, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Rumney : The Northwest Passage : Double D's (5.12c)
By: stow When: May 2, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: It's a hard one to grade as the bottom slab is moderate, the crux section is hard but only like 6 poppy hand movements and the top is picturesque but pretty straightforward. The crux is harder than anything on benchmark 12c's like Venus/Flying Monkeys but it's so short 12c is probably right.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Northwest Passage : Boar War (5.12a/b)
By: stow When: Apr 24, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely worth doing. Slab then roof then arete. What's not to like? Oh yeah. All the lichen - hopefully that'll clean up if people get on it.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Rocket Man (5.13d)
By: stow When: Nov 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Lee I have some 6' beta for those moves from the jug I'm happy with if you want. More moves but I think somewhat less crimpy and reachy than what Brian N. does in the video. Let me know via PM.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Anaconda-Da-Vida (5.12c/d)
By: stow When: Jun 6, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I like Iron Butterfly. And I like this route. Another good but less popular one- shady in summer in the afternoon too. More d than c due to what (I think) was a hold breaking above the mantle ledge? Or maybe it always just a terrible crimp.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : The Skewer (5.12d)
By: stow When: Sep 17, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Not many people do this route -- possibly b/c of the spaced bolts and scary slightly lichen-y slabs.

I think this works to make it reasonable:

A short draw on the last bolt of the crack makes it easier to avoid foot entanglement as you enter the first slab.

A long sling with a short draw on the second slab bolt (so it's just hanging over the edge) means you can clip it from the top of the crack to protect the first slab and also the rope won't rub on the edge if you fall as you do the se... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Venus Wall : Neptune (5.13a)
By: stow When: Sep 10, 2012

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Comments: Unfortunately the perfect little three finger incut RH crimp at the top deadpoint crux of Neptune (and Chippa) broke off Aug 25. Forensic analysis by the local rock doctors determine that it can't really be repaired since the hold is so small. The move has been done since the breakage short person's way (little harder) and tall way (reportedly quite a bit harder but doable).


Location: NH : *Rumney : Venus Wall : Shame on a Chippa (5.13c)
By: stow When: Jun 17, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: FYI - The crimp some people match above the 3rd (i think) draw exploded yesterday mid-match by strong Quebecois Alex. He said it is still doable but harder and more body tension-y as you can use it but can't really match anymore. I've got the pieces if anyone wants them for the Rumney hold museum or forensic reconstruction or a terrible paperweight or anything. Repair might be possible but would be very hard I would think b/c of the many pieces.


Location: NH : *Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : The Prow (5.11d)
By: stow When: Jun 13, 2012

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Comments: Nice job Lee!
I have not been on this in a long long time. How much is fixed these days? I.e., how light was yr rack? Thanks.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Bonsai : The Noodle (5.12b)
By: stow When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: I got on this yesterday and was truly stumped at the top. Is there a knee bar up there? toe hooks? stem?


Location: NH : *Rumney : New Wave : Roaring Silence (5.13b)
By: stow When: May 15, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: 1st, 2nd, 5th and 6th old fixed draws replaced by black-tubed Climb Tech permadraws on May 12, 2011. 5th clip an inch longer so should be slightly easier, and the runout to the chains maybe slightly less freaky without the nagging wondering about actual tensile strength of very old sun-bleached draws with grooved biners


Location: NH : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Dynosoar (5.13a)
By: stow When: May 15, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: The 4 old fixed draws on Dyno-soar replaced by black-tubed Climb-Tech steel cable permadraws May 12, 2011. This should improve the safety on this route - the fixed draws were in bad shape - but be aware the new draws are harder to grab when working the route.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: boston vs san francisco based sport climbingSport ClimbingstowJul 25, 2016
Partner San Luis Obispo 2/9-2/12Northern CaliforniastowFeb 9, 2016
Found: rope bag at Lower Darth Vader RumneyLost and FoundstowNov 9, 2015
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