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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - NE Face : ... : Power Line (5.7)
By: Stormeh When: Jan 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route was terrible. First off: Lots of bat/bird shit immediately left of the route. Additionally, terrible rock quality means bad pro, and I didn't feel at all comfortable tackling the steeper head wall with a microcam or nut in rotting, dark rock. Instead I cut left to the bolts to finish up on the anchors of those slab routes, which are much better (albeit harder) than Power Line. Bomb. Seriously, pass on this route.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Group Campsites Road : Group Campsite 2 : Klettervergnugen (5.9)
By: Stormeh When: Dec 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Significantly harder than 5.9, imo, and as noted above, the bolts do not inspire confidence. The hanger on the bottom bolt is pretty mangled. Bomb. Might be 1 star if the bolts were better, but still, I think a grade of 10a/b is fair. Or I just really suck at slab.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon Area : Steve Canyon : ... : Skinny Dip (5.7 R)
By: Stormeh When: Oct 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tried this route on lead for the first time in 3 years and couldn't fit through. 3 years ago when I did it, I fit through but had no rack on me as I was on TR. Probably also skinnier then. FYI, I am 5'10 150lbs and couldn't do it. I have fairly broad shoulders and chest though, but still, you do need to be skinny. Bailed off the bolt to the right of the orifice.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : El Camino Real (5.10a)
By: Stormeh When: Sep 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolt 3 of pitch 2 is missing a hanger.
Today while following P2 imagine my surprise when I approach bolt #2 to find a quickdraw dangling with a hanger at the bottom. I guess while bringing me up the nut popped off bolt #3 somehow (must have been loose from dozens of other parties before us?) and the hanger and quickdraw slid down to bolt #2.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Consolation (5.9)
By: Stormeh When: Jul 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good route with a hard crux. I thought placing gear at the top of the double cracks was the real crux, as it's pumpy and tiring to place from the admittedly good jams.
After the third pitch went right-ish to try to join the Long Climb. This is my 2nd time on the upper half of the Long Climb and I still couldn't find the "downward pointing flake." I climbed around broken terrain finally ending up on top of a block with faded green rap slings around it. From here I traversed almost exactly righ... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Mounds : Eff Eight (5.8)
By: Stormeh When: Jun 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You are correct randy. I'm glad you left this route out of your classics guide.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Mounds : Eff Eight (5.8)
By: Stormeh When: Jun 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't even believe this thing is in the classics book. I gave it one star...was tempted to bomb it, but it certainly is memorable: you will never work so hard for 10 feet of climbing on another 5.8 in your life. The initial jugs lure you into a false sense of security and then the awkward OW happens. You'll be curse the lack of any reasonable left feet and grunt your way to the top, only to find misplaced bolts or a wide crack to build an anchor.
When you finish the route you can't help but l... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Rock Garden Valley : Rock Garden Valley - Left S... : Rock Candy (5.9)
By: Stormeh When: Apr 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would say all of 10a, and quite serious as well. When compared to Loose Lady, you have to call this thing 10a, and the pro is worse as well. Very sustained. Great route!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - North Side : The Sound of One Shoe Tappi... (5.8)
By: Stormeh When: Mar 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The slab section is fairly easy, I agree not consistent with Josh 5.8, but the runout makes you think for sure.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : The Slab (5.8 R)
By: Stormeh When: Dec 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I mistakenly got on this instead of the desired Fingertrip. *Phew*...rough. The strenuous laybacking with few good rest stances means gear is scarce. I give it a 5.8+ R rating. I know stronger climbers might disagree with me about the R, but this definitely isn't a climber for a novice. It seems to me that many climbers mistake this for Fingertrip and get in over their heads, seeing as how I saw 2 bail pieces on the route when I did it. Probably a good place to booty gear, actually.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - East Side : Jughead (5.10a)
By: Stormeh When: Nov 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unless I missed one, only 2 bolts are on the route now, protecting the crux well but nothing above it. I kind of wish there was a 3rd. Only saw 1 chicken head good enough to sling, but it was a fair ways above the 2nd bolt.
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