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Location: kyle kingrey : BTC Rock Climbs : Photo
By: Stiles When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: such propaganda
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond
By: Stiles When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: By phil wortmann
From: Manitou Springs, Co.
Sep 6, 2009
"Don't let Stefan's modesty fool you. He just climbed The Diamond FROM BOULDER in 10 & 1/2 hrs, biking there and back. Great job Stefan & co. Inspiration for the rest of us mortals."
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Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Photo
By: Stiles When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wilson Peak.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mount Sneffels : Snake (Dogleg) Couloir (Steep Snow)
By: Stiles When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good skiing conditions make for bad climbing conditions. The route is shaded and collects snow and would make for extended steep wallowing. The standard approach from Ouray up the summer road in Yankee Boy Basin provides easier access. I approached from the north and stayed at the Ridgway Hut (part of the San Juan Hut System--an outstanding resource) before gaining Lavender Col via a wide couloir on the mountains ENE side. This made for a great adventure and the huts are pure luxury. Snowmo... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mount Sneffels : Snake (Dogleg) Couloir (Steep Snow) : Photo
By: Stiles When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As always, bring your own webbing. If the snow is too deep to find a boulder to sling be ready for a spicy though not-too-technical down climb with consequences. Joe Ryan and his daughter Kelly in photo. Joe does this so often he has a 300ft rope just for this rap.
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Location: Zac Robinson : Zac's Climbing : Photo
By: Stiles When: May 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why mess around with a lil ole nut like that?!? I'll bet you could wham a nice LA in that pod and be BOMB!
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Location: Stiles : joeski : Photo
By: Stiles When: May 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Joe was taking his Kelly for her first winter ascent and ski of Sneffels. I met them on the summit, where they let me join them skiing down the north face.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Between Shark's Fin Wall & ... : ... : Photo
By: Stiles When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like the pro was bad enough to prompt the belayer to walk away and take a picture to show the girlfriend what happened.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Bridge Wall North (Practice... : ... : Photo
By: Stiles When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic ass shot. Nice work, Kyle.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Middle Spire : Candyland (5.10c) : Photo
By: Stiles When: May 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Natural pro! Awesome!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : The Rainbow Wall : Desert Solitaire (5.9 A3+)
By: Stiles When: Oct 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this line with Kellen Nelson in May of 2005. I hitched from Fort Collins to Kellen's house in Reno. We drove to Vegas, climbed the wall(ran out of food and water--walk down descent sucks), and hitched back to the Fort. Outstanding line. Kellen took a factor-2 35footer and fully blew out a screamer on pitch two trying to go clean. A few small KBs and several peckers and RURPs were needed on three pitches. This line runs straight up the middle of the wall, aesthetic. Solo FA is Bol... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Culp-Bossier (5.8+) : Photo
By: Stiles When: Jun 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's a heady solo.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : Swoop Gimp or Be Dust (5.9 C3)
By: Stiles When: Aug 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: WTF is up with this description? 5.9 C3. C3. So why is a whole friggin rack of ironmongery listed in the protection section, eh? Not only does it go completely clean, but some rope monkeys from CA did this mutha sans-iron in 3 1/2 hours. If you wanna fuck up the rock and play with your peckers go climb the Streaked Wall.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Mainliner (5.9)
By: Stiles When: Aug 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Go straight up off the belay at the top of pitch one. The dihedral into the wee roof is awesome and adds another spot of 5.9 to the route. From there 200ft takes you to ledges above the stem dihedral and right below the thin crux bulge. Supa sweet.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Photo
By: Stiles When: Aug 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmm...
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Alexander's Chimney (WI4 M4)
By: Stiles When: Aug 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route constituted the single best day of climbing I've ever had.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Stiles When: Aug 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sick photo!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Diagonal (5.9)
By: Stiles When: Jul 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: One sixty meter rope gets to gound in two rappels. From top anchors rap to middle anchors. Go past the Tree Roof tree on the LEFT to ledges and walk back to start.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Camouflage (5.9- R)
By: Stiles When: Jul 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't let the above comments scare you away. If you bring small cams and RPs you can keep the runout minimally small. The face climbing through the thin-pro section is very positive with awesome footholds the whole way. You're going to be focused and the climbing is very positive; it's hard to imagine a 5.9 leader falling off here.
This is a really fun route with a lot of variety for one pitch. I thought it a touch more sustained than Diagonal. Highly recommended!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Ironing Board Slabs (Upper ... : Short but Squeezed (5.7+ PG13)
By: Stiles When: Jul 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun little climb. Thought I did the FA free solo and had posted it as Vedauwoo de Grāce; luckily the wise Kyle Kingrey pulled my ass out of the fire once again and corrected my oversight. Appy polly logies Mister Simons, keep up the good work.
- This final headwall makes for an awesome four pitch day, with lots of options to play on at the end.
Lots of potential up there. Just waiting...
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : North Face/Ridge : Keyhole Ridge (5.6)
By: Stiles When: Aug 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: - **Beware of the short downclimb mid-route*** The most logical hold to grab when lowering yourself down is a large block. IT IS LOOSE, and you commit most of your weight to it. If it goes, you're going to crush some touron on the trail and take a digger onto less-than-vertical ground.
Oh, and I lost a super-duper sweet hacky sack somewhere up there. Keep an eye out, 'cause it's so f-ing cool looking, you're going to crap a brick if you find it.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: Stiles When: Mar 28, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jeez, guys, chill out. Do what you've got to do to have fun and succeed. Try your damndest not to nail, place sawed-offs if you ABSOLUTELY have to (although a craftily placed tri-cam will work), and SAY WHAT YOU DO. Nobody should care about your style as long as you owe up to your actions and don't hurt the rock or somebody else. Its aid climbing, a cheater stick really isn't cheating in my book, just poor style.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro...
By: Stiles When: Feb 14, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Safety in Numbers- 11a free; moderate clean aid. Thin and soft diagonal crack on the golden slab.
Some punters nailed this crack this weekend (14 Feb 05) because they didn't have enough small gear to aid with. NEVER ruin the work of others with a hammer to bring routes down to your level....
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Bridge Wall North (Practice... : Safety in Numbers (5.11 A3)
By: Stiles When: Feb 14, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super-sweet practice aid climb or a stellar free climb. However, I ran into some people the other day that didn't have enough small gear for the crack, so they decided to nail. This rock is soft and the seam is shallow. Their nailing made hideous, crappy, and worthless pin scars, and their frequent missed blows made some nice white spots on the rock surrounding the crack.
I've seen a pic from the sixties of a guy freeing this and its been aided on nothing but nuts.
If you don't have the ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Rattler (C3)
By: Stiles When: Feb 14, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb (and every other aid climb on the Owls) goes clean. The rotten rock will not take much nailing; once one maniac does it sans hammer, EVERYONE should. Take a lot of small cams and nuts... and a book for the belays...and maybe a crash pad....
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