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Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 401
Total Points: 1,485
Last Year: 144
Last 30 Days: 1
32 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 4254 | Routes 20 | Areas 6 | Photos 198 | Page Improvements | Comments 205 | Posts 3660 | Stars 121 | Ratings 44
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Photo (Copy)
By: Stich When: Jun 29, 2008

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Comments: The cafe is amazingly cute inside. Definitely the best place to start and end your day.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Old Stage Road : Ambiguously Uncertain Crag
By: Stich When: Jun 29, 2008

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Comments: The property line zig zags around the road and includes some land on the right side as you drive to Cripple Creek. But according to the map I have, the spires themselves are on NF land.


Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : True Religon (5.10c)
By: Stich When: Jun 25, 2008

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Comments: I was actually surprised how solid the layback was. As you get higher, it gets deeper and more sharp, allowing you to really grip the edge well. Establishing yourself in the crack above the layback felt like the crux.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Side : West Point Crack (5.8 R)
By: Stich When: Jun 22, 2008

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Comments: Don't attempt to rappel down the face you just climbed. The friction of your rope running over the rock on top will make it impossible to pull. Always rappel off the back the way the rap anchors were meant to be used.

So Nelson, do you rap off the back and downclimb the slab? I'm not sure how you are getting off with one 60m.

I felt fine doing P2 with just a full set of Camelots to #3, although I did place a #4 once. The #3 is the last gear before you run it out to the ancho... more >>


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : East Face : Snuggles to Fall Crack (5.8+)
By: Stich When: Jun 13, 2008

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Comments: The mostly unprotected slab to the base of the route takes one sketchy thread through a handbar that looks like it would crumble if you actually fell on it. Just brush off your footholds prior to stepping on them and head up. There is a collection of boulders that has been slung to rappel down from. Kind of funky, but it holds.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock
By: Stich When: Jun 13, 2008

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Comments: We were told not to climb on the East side of N. Gateway rock yesterday, due to falcon closures. However, I can't find any closures posted on the GOG website nor were there any posted on the wooden fence or elsewhere. Anyone know the scoop?


Location: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiG... : ` : Photo
By: Stich When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: You look very vexed. Just one more drink won't kill you.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area : Cave Crack (5.6)
By: Stich When: Apr 18, 2008

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Comments: The bottom of Cave Crack is a good hand/fist size. If you want to hone your jamming skills, this is one of the cleaner cracks without a lot of crystal facets to gouge your hands.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : Center Wall : Chunky Tuna (5.5)
By: Stich When: Apr 18, 2008

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Comments: It's low angle enough that one can even down climb at the point Caver's Nightmare crack begins, although newer leaders might not want to do that. This is a great route to learn gear placements on, as you are solid in each stance as you traverse.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : The Big Chill (5.10c)
By: Stich When: Apr 13, 2008

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Comments: The bolts require some traversing from the crack to clip, but it's definitely the crack you want to climb.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Aguja Celo Rey (5.10a)
By: Stich When: Apr 2, 2008

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Comments: For pitch one, you might feel compelled to try the crack where the saddle between the spires forms, but stay on holds to the right and you'll have less trouble. Some of the old, hand-made pins remain from the Mexican first ascentionists.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Dirty Dreams (5.11b)
By: Stich When: Apr 2, 2008

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Comments: Well worth doing while you are up at the Spires. The route stays in the shade on hot days.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico
By: Stich When: Apr 2, 2008

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Comments: Don't forget to bring your ear plugs to sleep through the all night parties...if you plan on getting any sleep.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Black Cat Bone (5.10d)
By: Stich When: Apr 2, 2008

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Comments: Some people just climb the roof and the dihedral and rap, avoiding the last pitch after that.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Photo
By: Stich When: Apr 2, 2008

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Comments: Awesome, dude! I've wanted to do that route for some time.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Super Nova (5.11a)
By: Stich When: Apr 2, 2008

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Comments: The first pitch is pretty damn stout and not like the rest of the route. There are some big chimneys full of packed, fractured rock that look worse than they are. You don't have to climb in the chimneys. The holds in places tend to angle downwards, so it's a bit different from other routes. This is probably due to the feature being a runoff gully. While an interesting route, no particular pitch really stands out as being that memorable.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : Alligator Soup (5.9+)
By: Stich When: Mar 29, 2008

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Comments: Fun first pitch! If you use the anchors to rappel off of New Era, toprope it before you pull the rope.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : East Side : Crescent Corner (5.9+)
By: Stich When: Mar 29, 2008

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Comments: Very nice anchors on this route now. I can only imagine what the holds were like when it was first put up, ha. Kind of slopy and not-so-positive here and there. An exciting lead for the grade for sure.


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : East Side : Mighty Thor (5.10c)
By: Stich When: Mar 29, 2008

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Comments: There's a bail quickdraw up on this route as of today. FYI.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Far Side : Coffee Bitch (5.7)
By: Stich When: Jan 28, 2008

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Comments: I had a great time doing the route as an offwidth fully inside the crack that penetrates the wall. You can reach out and clip from inside. But if you hate cracks or don't like chimneys, then you might want to pass on this one.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall
By: Stich When: Dec 2, 2007

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Comments: Some of the best single pitch routes are here. It is generally where the sun falls first, so in cold weather this is your best bet. In the summer heat, however, you might not last so long.

After hiking down the road into the Potrero and past the tin pavillion, you'll pass a cattle gate and enter the center of the ring of mountains. To your left across the dry creek is a buttress going uphill. The lower part of the wall is Mota Wall.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Fast Boat to China (5.8) : Photo
By: Stich When: Dec 1, 2007

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Comments: We started directly below the little ledge. Definitely a little harder.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Fast Boat to China (5.8)
By: Stich When: Dec 1, 2007

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Comments: This is an excellent gear route in Golden Cliffs. We knocked it off just as the rains came today. Getting on the little shelf in the dihedral was probably the crux, but later there are some thoughtful sequences that you could just smear or take the time to work out. Pro is great the whole way. I concur with Ron's rating, too. A bit harder than other 5.8s at the crag.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge : Photo
By: Stich When: Dec 1, 2007

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Comments: Hey Debbie, thanks for posting these ice photos. Nice to see current conditions.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Fifth Flatiron
By: Stich When: Nov 4, 2007

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Comments: The rappel is nice. You have a big, beefy CMC eye bolt. Next to it are an old rusty pin in a crack, a rusty 1/4 inch rivet with paper thin hanger, and another 1/4 inch piece of mank with an aluminum hanger that resembles a beer can pull tab. It's like a mini-museum of pro.


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