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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : East Face Gully (5.3)
By: Stich When: Apr 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route works really well for passing slow parties on the Direct East Face route. Just stay out of the gully proper and the rock is more featured. I stayed right and then headed towards some slings at the little wall on the left side of the gully. You can penetrate the wall at a break and you are right back at the Direct East Face.
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Location: Sport Climbing : Sport Climbing Just Got Saf... : Photo
By: Stich When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is this a picture of? It's hard to tell.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Negro Girls (5.9 R)
By: Stich When: Jan 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route was bolted by Kurt Smith on lead while Roy McClanahan was free soloing. Roy came over to talk to Kurt and then continued on up the line, thus snaking it essentially. Later on Roy felt kind of like a jerk for doing that, so he waited for Kurt to finish the upper pitches and so let him get the FA so to speak.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Colorado Springs & vicinity : Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak : The Ole 6 (5.11 WI3 M6+)
By: Stich When: Jan 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work, duder!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Kodachrome (5.9)
By: Stich When: Nov 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a great route but worth doing as a warm-up or to add a pitch. The only difficult part is the very end.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ants' Line (5.9)
By: Stich When: Sep 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nothing too devious on this one for the solid 5.9 leader. If you can keep from getting pumped, you can figure it out.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: Stich When: Sep 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The little horizontal slot by your foot stepping out from P1 has two groves in it where cams were dragged out by falling leaders that lost their nerve. That looked like the best pro option. Just keep your head together and step out there. If your hands start shaking, just relax and find the buckets and feet!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Coronary (5.10 R)
By: Stich When: Sep 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very sequency at the crux. Would be a super stiff onsight.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Lazy Day (5.9)
By: Stich When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The one move at the third bolt is overhung and makes this route harder than the one left of it, so I would put this at 10a. Stay on the small holds right instead of using that white, chalked-up jive hold up and left.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Is It Ready Yet...Moe (5.10-) : Photo
By: Stich When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route has cleaned up nicely as of 8/25/12.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : The Urban Alpine Crag
By: Stich When: Aug 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun half day of climbing! Thanks for putting in the work everyone.
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Location: CO : 10 Mile Canyon : Mount Royal (near Frisco) : Royal Flush (5.9)
By: Stich When: Aug 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1. Not a trad route.
2. More like 8 pitches.
3. Awesome fun.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Pangborn's Pinnacle : Center Dihedral (5.9) : Photo
By: Stich When: Jul 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did it in two pitches this time as well, and you pretty much have to if you belay with a 60m. It's more enjoyable broken into two pitches, I think.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Pangborn's Pinnacle : Center Dihedral (5.9) : Photo
By: Stich When: Jul 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just tried leading the roof. I couldn't pull up and over it as there was a distinct lack of holds after the corner. This variation is definitely in the 10b-c area.
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Location: Princess Mia : Vedauwoo : Photo
By: Stich When: Jul 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : La Maudite (5.9+)
By: Stich When: Jul 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this thinking it was No Mystery Here. Ha, ha, ha. Not quite what I was expecting. The crux is entering the shallow gully feature 1/3 way up.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : The Icebox : Hemisphere (5.9)
By: Stich When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Leo, you hated this route! Well, my friend didn't like it either, inexplicably. I found it a nice respite from the usual ho-hum slabfests 11-mile offers.
It's rated 5.10a in Ben's guide, but it's definitely only 5.9. The route is easier at the crux if you go behind the final arete-flake. Stay out front to keep it more interesting.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : ... : Photo
By: Stich When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: So the crack I'm wondering about is the wide one beyone the person on New Era.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face
By: Stich When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone have information on the crack directly left of New Era? This would be the crack/chimney that is formed on the right side of the face where Diesel and Dust is. There is a pin lower down on the line about 35 feet up. It's not any harder than 5.7.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Photo
By: Stich When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm pretty sure the dome in the background is Mt. Tom.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Side : Credibility Gap (5.9+)
By: Stich When: Mar 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Que Horror!
The big flake one used to grab from underneath and then stand on to clip the anchors broke off and left a jagged chunk remaining. Chains have been added to the anchors to allow you to clip without going any higher than the wide ledge there. A key hold just below also has a hairline crack all the way through it. Yearrrgh!
This route is deteriorating pretty quickly, though I can't say I'm surprised given the quality of the soft, red sandstone on South Gateway. I think I am done climb... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : East Face : Big Sky (5.7)
By: Stich When: Mar 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The details about pro in the route description pertain to "Sandy Monster" which is just right of "Bob's Buttress Crack."
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Side : Pipe Route (5.10+ R)
By: Stich When: Feb 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the first pitch years ago and foolishly attempted it again today since someone was on Credibility Gap and we wanted to stay in the sun. God awful!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : The Dune (5.10a)
By: Stich When: Oct 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Over the years this climb has gotten very polished. It's a real pile now with the exception of the very top, which remains nice. Given the absolutely horrid bolting, it's best to just avoid it.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : West Side : West Point Crack (5.8 R)
By: Stich When: Aug 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally did the third pitch yesterday. Leaning over to clip the pin isn't bad, then I got on the rock and went around to the left. The rock in that area is absolutely horrible. It's the large grain, white band. So getting back right and into the crack proper was interesting to say the least. There are good hand holds there, though. A few moves and it's over. There are two large eye bolts on top to belay from. You could rappel from here with two ropes, but walking off makes more sense.
To descen... more >>
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