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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : S-Direct (5.9+ R) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is the first ascent, the first free ascent, the first female ascent, the first solo, the first free solo, what first is this?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Zodiac (C3+) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1st ascent of el cap in swim trunks?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Valentine Crack (5.8)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is good.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did it last weekend. The pins for the first pitch belay seem good. Its easy to back them up with a blue metolius tcu. The first knifeblade at the start of the second pitch (the only good pitch on this route) is junk. I would never fall on it. The next pin on the second pitch (an SMC hybrid angle/knifeblade) seemed good. I did back it up with a lowe-ball and didn't fall on it. I really liked that second pitch.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Altered States (5.9 R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good point, Altered States is probably good. I wrote about the chin under the Magic Circus route.
We think that low bolt was an attempt up the water groove. After top-roping that line, we have concluded it unfinished. We couldn't find any type of protection in the blank rock above that low bolt. The climbing is "thugish" but fun.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Altered States (5.9 R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mr. Ten,
I actually stared at the Wizards Chin for a long time. I looks as good as it is from my vantage. What a really enjoyable route. I climbed Altered States because I was already up there.
I heard you did "Fish for Brains." I promise to put a lower anchor on that second pitch. Sorry for being lazy and not getting around to it yet.
SN
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Altered States (5.9 R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Bouted?" Hardly, I onsighted it. I actually climbed it again and still think it sucks. I guess I was disappointed because I heard it was one of the Wasatch classics for its grade and it didn't deliver. A bunch of other people I've spoke to think it blows also. Thanks for making fun of my name, buddy.
The Cheese.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Altered States (5.9 R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route sucks.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Romance on the Rocks (5.10d)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jeans are a great piece of gear for this route. If you recreate the falls committed by the first ascentionists like I did, do not wear modern, thin, and cute prana pants. I found this leads to cheek raspberries.
A brilliant and beautiful pitch that every slab addict should do.
sn
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Magic Circus (5.9 R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Wizards Chin is well worth climbing. I grinded a bunch of huge gear through there, and didn't use any. If anybody is interested in climbing this cool formation, take a #4 camalot, three #3 camalots, a #2 camalot, and a #1 camalot. Leave the small stuff and nuts on the ground. A sling or two and some draws for the last two bolts of Bright And Shining Lie are also nice. I found it better to finish on the Bright and Shining Lie rather than doing the Wasatch Crunch Fest... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Dorsal Fin (5.10d)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recently climbed this magical route for the second time and personally believe those pins are not a big deal. By the time you get to the second pitch corner, it feels like 5.0 If those pins are really loose try to tap them in. If the pin remains loose, pull it and try to fit a nut. If a nut doesn't fit, send a new pin home. Bolts should never be added to this section.
SN
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Bumble Bee Wall : Perseverance Bulge Crack (5.9)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun trad route. Large cams are not mandatory, yet nice to have. It is the difference between placing arm deep #3 camalots or easily placing larger pieces like a #3.5 or #4 camalot. Basically, if you own those larger pieces, I would recommend bringing them. If not, you can still get it done.
SN
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Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Rappel wall area : The Adventure Route (5.9+)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I bolted that arete. Big 1/2" bolts so enjoy!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Winged Warrior (5.10 A1) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I purpose we should all "adopt a route." Instead of relying on the blood, sweat and toil of a few, we should all choose a route and fix it. Learn how to fix bolts, pick a route, and fix that route. Just like the highways, "Adopt a Route."
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Ventral Fin (5.10 A2-3) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a picture! How about some more or a comment about the first ascent? "You give an inch we want a mile"
-TDA
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Ventral Fin (5.10 A2-3)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jun 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts are all new as of 2009, but there are a few old bolts in which we couldn't remove. Please take the necessary tools to "yank" these and patch the old holes.
Kudos to the Smoot brothers for the lasso on the fourth pitch. I'm sure it will remain one of my most mememorable moments in that canyon. It makes me want to go climb Nob Job.
-TDA
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Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Bowling Alley : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: May 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Those bolts are bomber. I placed some of those bolts. You should enjoy the doubt the Bowling Alley gives. Instead of being scared, you should add another 1/2" bolt and call it good. I love this little crag.
=TDA
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Apr 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Monty,
That looks like fun. Whats a few golf balls compared to the thousands of climbers that frequent this part of the desert.
I know its litter, but it doesn't compare to the spraying of routes on the internet which in return leads to more crowds.
Happy climbing and golfing!
TDA
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gargoyle Wall : Cloister (5.11a)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Mar 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am really interested in somebody elses opinion of this route. Has anybody out there climbed this? This may be my favorite off-width route in wonderful LCC. I added a new bolt and chains to the anchor. The one single lead bolt is junk, but after finding that I could back it up with gear I decided not to replace it. I can't wait to do this again.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress
By: Stevie Nacho When: Mar 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was at Crescent Crack Buttress this weekend and discovered a chiseled boulder at the intersection of the trail where you go left to Crescent Crack Buttress or right to the Egg. The rock has two arrows with black tar in them and the words "Hong" and "Egg" chiseled in. It looks as though the criminal didn't finish carving "Crescent Crack Buttress" in. Maybe their wrist was tired. I've been climbing here since 1994 and I've never seen this graffiti.
THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE! PLEASE STOP!
Li... more >>
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Location: UT : Ibex : Quartermoon Area : Quartermoon Tower : Northeast Arete (5.10+) : Photo
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jan 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does Luke have enough "drawls?"
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Spanish Fork Canyon : Spanish Fork Canyon / Hwy 6... : The Pricecicle (AKA The Dir... (WI4)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jan 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Mr. Bones,
Although Frozen Assets is a noble objective, one of which I would drive hours to complete, we didn't top out the route. If you remember, we were blown with warm wind,melted off the thing, and robbed of the last two pitches. This is similiar to that of the Great Ampitheater Gulley the same year. Another possible good time thwarted by warm weather. Nothing like ice climbing is the blazing sun with really warm weather.
Need I emphasize again that ice climbing is fun, yet very d... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Spanish Fork Canyon : Spanish Fork Canyon / Hwy 6... : The Pricecicle (AKA The Dir... (WI4)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jan 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes I did find some poop near the poopcicle. That poop belonged to Bill Bones. After getting the courage to aid/ice climb the bottom 20' of this crapcicle, he screamed down to me in horror. After removing myself from a cocoon of down and highway noise, I realized Bill was asking me for assistance. He wanted me to tie the powerdrill to his hall line. I know that cordless drills don't last in the cold, however Bill has devised a plan to keep the battery warm. He keep the battery in his "warm... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Spanish Fork Canyon : Spanish Fork Canyon / Hwy 6... : The Pricecicle (AKA The Dir... (WI4)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Jan 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If poop froze, Bill Bones would send his picks into it and call it good. This guy, Bill Bones, has a constant frozen wood for anything cold and climbable. One must commend him on his enthusiam, yet we must help him understand that skiing is more fun and much more consistant. Bill Bones lived in Las Vegas for years, yet managed to climb more ice that most northerners. Once again Bill, not all frozen poop is good.
-The Nacho
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Ice Falls : The Leisure Route (5.8 R)
By: Stevie Nacho When: Nov 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Luke, you hit it head on regarding my "vision" for this route. I wanted to keep it as old school as possible. Its great to climb easy terrain yet be concerned for your life. The only section of this route that could be dangerous is the easy 5.6 at the bottom. The Leisure route will keep people on their toes and possibly able them for adventures in the desert. A definate must do.
James, Thanks for your comment on this rad route. Please go back when you aren't coming back from an injury. ... more >>
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