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Rock Climbing Photo: Lion King with the pup.


Member Since: Sep 7, 2007
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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SteveZ
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Point Rank: # 1,535
Total Points: 493
Last Year: 35
Last 30 Days: 2
26 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has SteveZ been climbing?










Contributions


All 1860 | Routes 16 | Areas | Photos 45 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 105 | Posts 100 | Stars 1413 | Ratings 180
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Economy Cliff : Buy Gold (5.12a)
By: SteveZ When: Aug 12, 2016

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Comments: The top is excellent. The bottom isn't quite as dirty/bad as it looks.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Economy Cliff
By: SteveZ When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: River was high but doable today. We found a couple of places to cross with the water up to mid/upper thigh.

Worth noting that this time of year the wall actually gets sun until 10 or 11 am.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Arena : Shady Lane : Made in the Shade (5.12b)
By: SteveZ When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: Thanks, Tod, I'll edit that in. I figured it was you, but I didn't have FA info.

Excellent route!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northeast Face : Ten Little Indians (5.11a R)
By: SteveZ When: Jul 16, 2016

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Comments: Fun route. The rock quality is less than awesome on a few of the pitches but overall pretty good. I think it's worth saying that although listed as 1500 ft, there is probably another 200-300' of easy 4th/5th class scrambling to get to the first pitch/summit from the end of the last pitch.

Also notably the 5.easy scrambling at the top after the last pitch did have one (brief) maybe 20' section of not easy climbing. It felt about 10+ to ... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Sundogs (5.12b)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 11, 2016

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Comments: ^^^ In response to the above comment... the anchor is good now, with standard rap rings on both bolts. Also, maybe you're describing a "lap link"?


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Bird's Nest : Ladies in Love aka: Lesbia... (5.12c)
By: SteveZ When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: One of the rare hand friendly routes in the area. Gets full on sun during most of the day though, making it a good morning/evening route (or winter).


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Borneo : Spinal Tap (5.11)
By: SteveZ When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: The bottom of this route is awesome. Some sharp hard moves up top that aren't as awesome.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Laughing at the Moon (5.10b)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 11, 2015

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Comments: ^^^Thanks, Gregger Man. Shoot me a PM if you could use any hardware, money, or beer donations for the cause.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 1 : Wild Blue Yonder (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: WBY also sports a direct start off the ramp at about 12a. Ends up at the same no-hands rest, so it doesn't really increase the overall difficulty but makes the belay spot nicer.


Location: Chris treggE : Climbing Shots : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: *Magnum* (Dear God, it's beautiful)



Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Kleptocracy (5.13-)
By: SteveZ When: Nov 20, 2014

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Comments: Anyone have beta they wouldn't mind sharing for "the move"? I'm totally stumped! The rest of the route is really cool, but the one move is such a show stopper for me.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Double Dominatrix (5.12d)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: I've done it with the direct moves and the traverse method, and they feel about the same difficulty wise to me. Didn't find a no-hands rest though. They're also both really cool. I would say the rock on the direct path is better though.

How are there no pictures of this yet?!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Pit Bull Prowser (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 26, 2014

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Comments: There is a very definite crux at the third bolt (of pitch 2) that seemed like it would go two ways. A huge body length dyno up and right to an angled rail or classic BoCan crystal crimping up and left. I only managed the latter, but the dyno would be spectacular. Either way it's pretty mean and punchy. Good stone, but it looked as if the second pitch doesn't see much action these days.

It's also worth noting that pitch 1 shares anchors and the last four bolts with Cujo Tranquilizer to the left... more >>


Location: CO : Idaho Springs : Loch Lomond : Reynolds Lake : Reynolds Boulder : Bob Loblaw (V6)
By: SteveZ When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: "Lobs law bombs on his law blog"

Awesome route name!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Shadowlands : Fabled Creatures Wall : Unicorn (5.12c)
By: SteveZ When: Jun 22, 2014

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Comments: Seemed like this route and Incubus held shade the longest due to their aspect. Maybe 3 or 4pm?

...and only two monos for me (fortunately). Though they are at the steepest part.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: SteveZ When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: I was confused by this line in the way Reboot mentions above. There seemed to be several places to traverse left to the arete from the crack above the first roof. We figured out at least three. It always seemed like the natural line wanted to take you up and right but the bolts to the left. Kind of nebulous but good rock at the very least.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Stumbling Block : Naked Kill (5.12d R)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: Ha, perfect indeed...

(fine handy work up there).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Back in Slacks (5.11c)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: I agree with above, rolling over the lip is kind of heady with nothing to clip there. Sweet huecos down low!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Stumbling Block : Naked Kill (5.12d R)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: ^^^ Agreed. It climbs like a mix between finger crack and a sport climb.

As a note on gear, there are good pieces, it just helps to know where they are and where to just climb. Going ground up on this would be pretty bad ass. Excellent pro before the crux helps a lot (currently fixed nut here, sorry). I also added a nut hanger to the old bolt at the anchor to connect it with the new 1/2" bolt with locker to add some redundancy.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Bumbling Stock : Crack a Beer (5.10+)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: I fully admit I suck at OW, but this felt considerably harder than 5.10. Maybe if you have big paws and can get some decent fists it would help, but otherwise it's some pretty steep stacks or arm bars. Felt like Generator crack kicked back 20 degrees but fortunately the business is only for like 15 feet. Whatever the case, this thing is an awesome bit of crack climbing.

WMC - for setting a TR, I'm not sure, but it looked like you could scramble up the back of the formation and the anchors were... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Bumbling Stock : Desiderata (5.11)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: The second half of this route is excellent. The first half is crumbly and weird. Second half is worth it I think.


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Eastern Heart (5.12a)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 5, 2014

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Comments: A lot of loose rock on this one. It's definitely still cleaning up, and I suspect it will get harder as more holds rip. I almost gave it a bomb, but the positioning at the top is sweet.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Flying Fish (5.12c/d)
By: SteveZ When: Feb 13, 2014

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Comments: The jug/good edge about 2/3 the way up ripped off today. I hadn't been on the route before it went, so I can't say if it's harder or not but just a heads up. Maybe my partner will chime in as he had done it in both states. It cleaned up nicely though, and the route still goes.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: SteveZ When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: Snow conditions:

I went yesterday and it was great. No problem driving up to The Bank parking in my 2WD wagon. We went to the bank at it was no problem walking. Snow was packed down in some places, but where it wasn't, it was only ankle deep at most and usually avoidable or brief. When we were walking in, another party dropped off to go to Cactus, etc. all and seemed to have no problem. None of the walls at The Bank were seeping or wet that we saw and even the bases were totally clear of snow. ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Dog Run (5.12b)
By: SteveZ When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: Agreed, this line seemed totally independent of Big Dog. You could clip the first bolt of Big Dog on the slab perhaps but certainly not needed.

Not quite as good as Big Dog, but there are fun, steep moves throughout.


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