Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Lion King with the pup.


Member Since: Sep 7, 2007
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact SteveZ

SteveZ
is a member of
Point Rank: # 1,544
Total Points: 496
Last Year: 38
Last 30 Days: 3
26 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has SteveZ been climbing?










Contributions


All 1884 | Routes 16 | Areas | Photos 45 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 108 | Posts 100 | Stars 1430 | Ratings 184
Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Jazz on the Mezzanine (5.12b) : Photo (Copy)
By: SteveZ When: 1 day ago

view comment >>
Comments: Just for clarity, Jazz on the Mezzanine is not the route labeled 6 in this pictures. It's around the corner on the shaded face. It begins off the brightly lit block in the bottom right of the photo on side pulls.

The route labeled 6 is "Q's" 5.9.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Persistent Vegetative State (5.10a/b)
By: SteveZ When: Sep 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: ^^^In response to Rob, routes that traverse, overhang, etc. are much easier and safer to clean on lower than rappel. Yes, this does require one more lower on the fixed anchor hardware but is more than acceptable (and typically intended). When doing this, you can avoid swinging as well by fixing a trolley draw from you to the rope end going through the draws.

Or clean on follow.

Not trying to be condescending if you know all of this already, but we had no issues cleaning it with either of these... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : Stone Cold KiLLaz (5.12b)
By: SteveZ When: Sep 1, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Tough slab crux on this!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Economy Cliff : Buy Gold (5.12a)
By: SteveZ When: Aug 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The top is excellent. The bottom isn't quite as dirty/bad as it looks.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : New Economy Cliff
By: SteveZ When: Aug 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: River was high but doable today. We found a couple of places to cross with the water up to mid/upper thigh.

Worth noting that this time of year the wall actually gets sun until 10 or 11 am.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Arena : Shady Lane : Made in the Shade (5.12b)
By: SteveZ When: Jul 26, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks, Tod, I'll edit that in. I figured it was you, but I didn't have FA info.

Excellent route!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northeast Face : Ten Little Indians (5.11a R)
By: SteveZ When: Jul 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route. The rock quality is less than awesome on a few of the pitches but overall pretty good. I think it's worth saying that although listed as 1500 ft, there is probably another 200-300' of easy 4th/5th class scrambling to get to the first pitch/summit from the end of the last pitch.

Also notably the 5.easy scrambling at the top after the last pitch did have one (brief) maybe 20' section of not easy climbing. It felt about 10+ to ... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Sundogs (5.12b)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: ^^^ In response to the above comment... the anchor is good now, with standard rap rings on both bolts. Also, maybe you're describing a "lap link"?


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Bird's Nest : Ladies in Love aka: Lesbia... (5.12c)
By: SteveZ When: Jun 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: One of the rare hand friendly routes in the area. Gets full on sun during most of the day though, making it a good morning/evening route (or winter).


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Borneo : Spinal Tap (5.11)
By: SteveZ When: Jun 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The bottom of this route is awesome. Some sharp hard moves up top that aren't as awesome.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Laughing at the Moon (5.10b)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 11, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: ^^^Thanks, Gregger Man. Shoot me a PM if you could use any hardware, money, or beer donations for the cause.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Ridge 1 : Wild Blue Yonder (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Mar 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: WBY also sports a direct start off the ramp at about 12a. Ends up at the same no-hands rest, so it doesn't really increase the overall difficulty but makes the belay spot nicer.


Location: Chris treggE : Climbing Shots : Photo
By: SteveZ When: Mar 12, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: *Magnum* (Dear God, it's beautiful)



Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Quarry Wall : Kleptocracy (5.13-)
By: SteveZ When: Nov 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Anyone have beta they wouldn't mind sharing for "the move"? I'm totally stumped! The rest of the route is really cool, but the one move is such a show stopper for me.


Location: CO : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Dude's Throne : Double Dominatrix (5.12d)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I've done it with the direct moves and the traverse method, and they feel about the same difficulty wise to me. Didn't find a no-hands rest though. They're also both really cool. I would say the rock on the direct path is better though.

How are there no pictures of this yet?!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Pit Bull Prowser (5.13a)
By: SteveZ When: Oct 26, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: There is a very definite crux at the third bolt (of pitch 2) that seemed like it would go two ways. A huge body length dyno up and right to an angled rail or classic BoCan crystal crimping up and left. I only managed the latter, but the dyno would be spectacular. Either way it's pretty mean and punchy. Good stone, but it looked as if the second pitch doesn't see much action these days.

It's also worth noting that pitch 1 shares anchors and the last four bolts with Cujo Tranquilizer to the left... more >>


Location: CO : Idaho Springs : Loch Lomond : Reynolds Lake : Reynolds Boulder : Bob Loblaw (V6)
By: SteveZ When: Sep 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: "Lobs law bombs on his law blog"

Awesome route name!


Location: SD : Spearfish Canyon : Shadowlands : Fabled Creatures Wall : Unicorn (5.12c)
By: SteveZ When: Jun 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Seemed like this route and Incubus held shade the longest due to their aspect. Maybe 3 or 4pm?

...and only two monos for me (fortunately). Though they are at the steepest part.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Earth Angel (5.12d)
By: SteveZ When: May 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I was confused by this line in the way Reboot mentions above. There seemed to be several places to traverse left to the arete from the crack above the first roof. We figured out at least three. It always seemed like the natural line wanted to take you up and right but the bolts to the left. Kind of nebulous but good rock at the very least.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Stumbling Block : Naked Kill (5.12d R)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Ha, perfect indeed...

(fine handy work up there).


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Back in Slacks (5.11c)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with above, rolling over the lip is kind of heady with nothing to clip there. Sweet huecos down low!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Stumbling Block : Naked Kill (5.12d R)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: ^^^ Agreed. It climbs like a mix between finger crack and a sport climb.

As a note on gear, there are good pieces, it just helps to know where they are and where to just climb. Going ground up on this would be pretty bad ass. Excellent pro before the crux helps a lot (currently fixed nut here, sorry). I also added a nut hanger to the old bolt at the anchor to connect it with the new 1/2" bolt with locker to add some redundancy.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Bumbling Stock : Crack a Beer (5.10+)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I fully admit I suck at OW, but this felt considerably harder than 5.10. Maybe if you have big paws and can get some decent fists it would help, but otherwise it's some pretty steep stacks or arm bars. Felt like Generator crack kicked back 20 degrees but fortunately the business is only for like 15 feet. Whatever the case, this thing is an awesome bit of crack climbing.

WMC - for setting a TR, I'm not sure, but it looked like you could scramble up the back of the formation and the anchors were... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Bumbling Stock : Desiderata (5.11)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The second half of this route is excellent. The first half is crumbly and weird. Second half is worth it I think.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Quarry Wall : Eastern Heart (5.12a)
By: SteveZ When: Apr 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A lot of loose rock on this one. It's definitely still cleaning up, and I suspect it will get harder as more holds rip. I almost gave it a bomb, but the positioning at the top is sweet.


Page 1 of 5.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!