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Showing off Johns almighty poop tube on the top of...


Member Since: Jul 8, 2005
Last Visit: 6 days ago
Contact Steven Lucarelli


Point Rank: # 100
Total Points: 4,182
Last Year: 506
Last 30 Days: 0
191 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Steven Lucarelli been climbing?










Contributions


All 4023 | Routes 220 | Areas 59 | Photos 180 | Page Improvements | Comments 197 | Posts 93 | Stars 1758 | Ratings 1516
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : ... : The Bugaboos
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: Some people do and some even go without anything (just approach shoes!). It really depends on the snow/glacier conditions, your objectives and your comfort level. I personally prefer a light set of aluminum crampons and light mountaineering boots. The crampons for the added security and the boots for stability and dry feet. Its not the lightest or least bulky set up by any means but I can access anything I want, such as North Howser and not have to worry about it.

If your not going to far... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Maceo (5.12-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: One 70m rope will get you down from the anchor.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Felix (5.11)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: A pretty bold route by Indian Creek standards but worth doing if your up for it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek : The Paper Crane (5.13a)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: Josh, my friend found some key beta on the last crux moves that I feel drop the grade one letter. The way I was originally trying it (same as in your photos) would warrant the coveted 13a grade but the alternate beta makes this sequence much much easier.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Longbow Chimney (5.8 A1)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: Its possible to rap off this route with one 70m rope. The first rap reaches with rope stretch and you'll have to stop at the intermediate belay in the chimney for the last rap to reach.

I used one #1 Camalot and one offset stopper for the last pitch.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jun 19, 2014

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Comments: Are there any shady walls worth climbing at this time of year?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Bullwinkle Tower
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jun 18, 2014

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Comments: The anchor is now down to one slightly loose bolt and a bunch of webbing wrapped around a bomber block. If the bolt ever comes out the block would be more than adequate. If the bolt anchor ever gets replaced some glue-ins in the existing holes would be a better option.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Monitor and Merrimac Buttes : Merrimac Butte, The Albatro... (5.11c)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: Extra-extra #1's and .75's. Anything bigger than a #2 Camalot is just extra weight.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : super bubbushka (5.11+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: I think most people will find this route very stout for the grade. I would describe the crux as off-balance and insecure, but the gear is good despite its small size.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek : The Paper Crane (5.13a)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: This is an amazing route! I thought it was even better than The Trad Warrior!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Unnamed (5.10+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Yeah I saw that route but the crack sizes and gear description were way off so I figured he must be describing another route. This thing is definitely .5 camalots at the start which gradually widen to baggy .75s or super tight #1's. Then there is another section of .5's followed by a short OW and about 60' of hands to the anchor. The crack doesn't get wider the higher you go it is pretty much a hand crack all the way to the anchor with a few pods. Also a 70m rope does reach the ground ... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : ... : Photo
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, that's pitch 3.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Voodoo Child (5.11+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: An outstanding desert adventure but you better be solid at the grade and an experienced desert climber. Jay Smith sure has an eye for good lines!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Bioturbation Wall : Just the Tips (5.12)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: This route is sweet! There is bomber gear all the way up it but a couple of the thin placements at the top are tricky to find and wiggle in. I thought the following rack was perfect to sew it up.

(2).1 (black alien), (1).3, (3).4, (2).5 & (3).75


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Air Voyage (5.12-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: Climbed this route yesterday, and Greg's description of the 12- OW is dead on. It doesn't look that bad, but man is it hard! After two attempts, I gave in to the old French Free. Would love to know what the technique is for getting up this pitch, or maybe it just comes down to some serious fitness? 5.11 C1 for me!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek : The Paper Crane (5.13a) : Photo (Copy)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: My friend figured out a cross-over move here that is way easier than what is shown in this picture. The cross-over beta probably drops the grade to 12d.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sacred Cow Wall : Sacred Cow (5.12c)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: There isn't a move of 5.12 on this route but you'll have a 5.12 pump by the time you get to the top of the headwall.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Hydroponic Pork (5.10+ PG13)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: The start is a little spicy but a black alien or .1 camalot seemed pretty bomber before committing to the face moves.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek : The Trad Warrior (5.12+ PG13)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: This route deserves more than 4 stars! One of the best pitches I've done in Upper or Lower Mill Creek, or anywhere for that matter!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Jewel of Denial (5.11-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Mar 9, 2014

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Comments: Hardest 11- at the Creek? I've climbed 11+ easier than this route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Cat's Paw (5.11b)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Mar 2, 2014

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Comments: F.A. Keith Reynolds


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : The Line King (5.11)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Mar 2, 2014

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Comments: This route is a lot easier than it looks and the face climbing section is short with good edges. Save a #4 for the end.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Witch : Midnight Rider (5.11+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: Green Aliens are the money piece on the 2nd pitch I would recommend 3 or even 4 if you really want to sew it up.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Warlock : Wings of Leather (5.11 C0 PG13)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: Just climbed this route all free and it's no harder than 5.11. I actually though the roof had the best moves of the whole climb and felt slightly easier than other sections of the 2nd pitch. Oh and thanks for the bolt, that is a thank god piece for sure!

I also have different gear beta that should be useful to most. I brought 2 #4's, 1 #5 & #6 but never found any place to use the #4's?! Instead I would recommend leaving the #4's (and #3's for that matter, ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Steel Pulse (5.11+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: Creek 12- for sure.


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