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Rock Climbing Photo: Showing off Johns almighty poop tube on the top of...


Member Since: Jul 8, 2005
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Steven Lucarelli

Point Rank: # 100
Total Points: 4,489
Last Year: 163
Last 30 Days: 13
209 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Steven Lucarelli been climbing?










Contributions


All 4407 | Routes 241 | Areas 63 | Photos 183 | Page Improvements | Comments 219 | Posts 99 | Stars 1935 | Ratings 1667
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Long Draw area : Dark Matter (5.11b/c R)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Tom, your selling yourself short on this one. This is a classic for sure and pitch 11 is one of the best pitches in the Black, especially if you link it into pitch 12!

My two cents for anyone that's interested in this route... Expect lots of runout face climbing at moderate grades up to 5.10. Pitch five is the crux for sure and I felt that it was a bit of a sandbag at the 11b/c grade. There is also a spooky chockstone that guards the start of the pitch so pull down not out!

The #3 L... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Turdus Interuptus (5.10+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: You definitely don't need anything bigger than a #2 Camalot for this route. I would bring Green Aliens through a #2, heavy on the .75 size.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Mars : Propulsion (5.12-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 2, 2016

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Comments: Great route with some very thought provoking moves. The grade will vary based on your height and reach.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Unknown (5.11)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: I think this might be Gnar? Although it would be very difficult if you didn't stem off the OW to the right.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Unknown 5.10+ (5.10+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: Is this the same route that is listed in Blooms new guide as an Unknown 5.11 (route 13)?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Selfish Wall : Mean Black Dog (5.12)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: Nice find Jack! I thought this was a brilliant route with thought provoking climbing and an Air Swedenesque crux. Mid 5.12 felt about right to me. Best route at the wall for sure! Oh and this route shares the same start with Tag Team.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Other Mill Creek Areas : Real Talk (5.13+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 16, 2016

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Comments: This route is insanely hard! Especially when you take into account placing the gear on lead. Nice work Mason!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Broken Brain (5.12) : Photo
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Mar 15, 2016

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Comments: Yessss!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Jimmy's Three Inch Weenie (5.10+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Mar 12, 2016

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Comments: #3.5 Camalots work the best for this route. Seven of them would be way overkill unless your aiding it.


Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Competitive Edge (5.11c PG13)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jan 6, 2016

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Comments: Climbed this in Dec. 2015 and there is now an anchor on it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Cat Scan (5.11)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: This route is probably pushing 140' so I'm pretty sure a 70m won't reach. Save some finger sizes and bring one #4 for the upper portion if you go up the right hand crack. Also beware of the hanging blocks about 30' up, it doesn't look like they're being held in by much.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork of Taylor : Namaste Wall : Namaste (5.11d)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 14, 2015

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Comments: What an outstanding route but 12a...? If you can climb an overhanging ladder then you can climb this route. Most 11a's in Rifle are harder than this.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Lobotomy (5.11+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 2, 2015

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Comments: Just climbed this again and made an update to the gear beta as others have commented on. I also feel confident that this route is solid 11+ when compared to other Indian Creek routes.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : The Quota (5.12a)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Sep 25, 2015

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Comments: This is a great addition to the Black and a nice option if you're looking for a shorter outing. The crux pitch is outstanding with very unique moves and one of the best kneebars ever! I found it hard to grade this pitch, since it seems to sit right on that fine line of 11+/12-. Shorter climbers will probably find it harder, especially lower down on the pitch where there are a couple reachy sections.

The suggested rack was perfect without the #5, and we didn't use anything smaller than a 0... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : End Of The Line (5.12-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: Having just climbed this I wanted to provide some additional gear beta for anyone that doesn't want to carry everything including the kitchen sink. I also added more gear than what I actually placed so hopefully no one will feel sandbagged by this rack recommendation.

All the gear listed is referring to Camalots unless otherwise noted.

(1).3, (4).4, (2)Gray Aliens, (9).5, (5).75, (1)#4.

This route stays very clean even without a lot of traffic, so get on it!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Gurka (5.12-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: Corona's assessment of this route is spot on!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Wicked Crag : Inferno (5.12a)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: Thanks!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : P-38 (5.10+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jun 26, 2015

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Comments: What a great route! I just wanted to add that this route would be considered fairly bold by most peoples standards, so make sure your solid at the grade and comfortable with running it out. Micro cams are also very useful, especially on the first pitch, think 00 & 000 C3's and DMM Peanuts.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : Sunshine Crack (5.11-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: May 17, 2015

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Comments: Mostly vertical with a few small sections that are a little steeper and some less than vertical as well.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek : Axis of Evil (5.12b/c)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 22, 2015

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Comments: .4's & .5's work better. A gray Alien or two is perfect.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gul... : No Country for Old Men (5.11 R)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: Just climbed this and have some additional beta that might be helpful for pitches 9 & 10. On the topo, the pitch 9 belay looks like it's right next to the peg band, but it's actually about 8' to the right on a right slanting ledge. The best way to reach it is to climb the peg until you get to the final good #2 Camalot hand crack. Then make some thin face move directly right to good edges and the anchor. The anchor consists of one new bolt and a loose knifeblade that can be wiggled out by h... more >>


Location: Asia : Laos : Thakhek
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: This area is fun with routes for all abilities but a word of caution should be made about the anchors. For some reason all the anchors are composed of two bolts connected to each other by an old piece of rope that is not equalized. One of the bolts will have one quick link on it that is used for lowering or rappelling from, making the second bolt virtually useless. If the bolt your lowering off of was to fail the second bolt would be shock loaded by the old piece of rope which would most like... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Nose (5.9 C2)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: 5.9 is the hardest "mandatory" free climbing on the route but if you can climb harder then that's up to you.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : The Bugaboos
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: Some people do and some even go without anything (just approach shoes!). It really depends on the snow/glacier conditions, your objectives and your comfort level. I personally prefer a light set of aluminum crampons and light mountaineering boots. The crampons for the added security and the boots for stability and dry feet. Its not the lightest or least bulky set up by any means but I can access anything I want, such as North Howser and not have to worry about it.

If your not going to far... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Maceo (5.12-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: One 70m rope will get you down from the anchor.


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