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Showing off Johns almighty poop tube on the top of El Cap, after climbing the Nose.


Member Since: Jul 8, 2005
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Steven Lucarelli


Point Rank: # 92
Total Points: 4,072
Last Year: 475
Last 30 Days: 13
172 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (3874) | Routes (216) | Areas (59) | Photos (169) | Comments (182) | Posts (87) | Stars (1699) | Ratings (1462)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek : The Paper Crane (5.13a) : Photo (Copy)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 15, 2014

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Comments: My friend figured out a cross-over move here that is way easier than what is shown in this picture. This is still the final red point crux though!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sacred Cow Wall : Sacred Cow (5.12c)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: There isn't a move of 5.12 on this route but you'll have a 5.12 pump by the time you get to the top of the headwall.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Hydroponic Pork (5.10+ PG13)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: The start is a little spicy but a black alien or .1 camalot seemed pretty bomber before committing to the face moves.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Lower Mill Creek : The Trad Warrior (5.13a PG13)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Mar 11, 2014

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Comments: This route deserves more than 4 stars! One of the best pitches I've done in Upper or Lower Mill Creek, or anywhere for that matter!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Jewel of Denial (5.11-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Mar 9, 2014

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Comments: Hardest 11- at the Creek? I've climbed 11+ easier than this route.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Cat's Paw (5.11b)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Mar 2, 2014

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Comments: F.A. Keith Reynolds


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : The Line King (5.11)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Mar 2, 2014

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Comments: This route is a lot easier than it looks and the face climbing section is short with good edges. Save a #4 for the end.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Witch : Midnight Rider (5.11+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: Green Aliens are the money piece on the 2nd pitch I would recommend 3 or even 4 if you really want to sew it up.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Warlock : Wings of Leather (5.11 C0 PG13)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 22, 2014

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Comments: Just climbed this route all free and it's no harder than 5.11. I actually though the roof had the best moves of the whole climb and felt slightly easier than other sections of the 2nd pitch. Oh and thanks for the bolt, that is a thank god piece for sure!

I also have different gear beta that should be useful to most. I brought 2 #4's, 1 #5 & #6 but never found any place to use the #4's?! Instead I would recommend leaving the #4's (and #3's for that matter, ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Steel Pulse (5.11+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 19, 2014

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Comments: Creek 12- for sure.


Location: International : North America : Puerto Rico : Caliche (Ciales, PR) : Triboro Direct (5.10b)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments: FA: R. Boscarino


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: A few helpful notes for anyone that is going to try this in the future.

One 70m rope is all you need to rap off (a 60m would probably reach but might as well be sure with a 70m).

A shoulder stand seemed like the safest and easiest way to clip the first pin at the start of pitch 3. If your short or going solo a stick clip or a replacement angle in the existing hole would be highly recommended. (Looked like a #2 or #3 angle to me?)

The higher crux on pitch 3 has two blown out pin s... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Nov 17, 2013

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Comments: Full sun.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Long Canyon North : Peccadillo (5.11)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: 10 #3's wouldn't go unused on this excellent route!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : Regular Route (5.7 A1) : Photo
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: Tried to place that same piece in the same spot today and it popped out twice with a bounce test. Ended up using the smallest HB brass offset and it worked fine.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : Regular Route (5.7 A1)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: Just climbed this and almost all my placements were small to micro stoppers on the first pitch. Second pitch was similar up to the crack switch and then its C1 to the top. The small C3's were helpful as were a few offset Aliens. Tried to place a BD Pecker at the crux of the second pitch and it popped out with a light bounce test, ended up using the smallest HB offset instead an it worked great.

My recommended rack would be triple of small stoppers (I used HB brass offsets, DMM Peanuts & BD... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Big Guy (5.11-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: F.A. Jay Smith. Original route went much higher than the present anchor. Story is that another party climbed the route thinking they were getting an f.a. and placed an anchor at the current location.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Finger Food (5.11)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: Route name is Finger Food, F.A. Jay Smith.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Cat Got Your Tongue (5.10)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: Route name is "Cat Got Your Tongue", F.A. Jay Smith.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Zeus : Sisyphus (5.11 R)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: The gear beta is way off when it comes to the #1 through #3 Camalots, you only need one of each no matter what your climbing ability is and the 3.5 isn't needed either. An extra Blue Alien wouldn't be a bad idea though. I also wouldn't give any of the pitches an R rating, especially the 3rd. Finally it is possible to rap off with one rope but I would bring some webbing to back up the anchors.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Alley Cat (5.12-)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: Just climbed this route and it was as clean as can be. I guess all the rain we've had this year cleaned it up. Great time to get on it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 1st Meat Wall : McRib (5.10)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: Some pretty hollow flakes on this one, be careful.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : Minute Lube (5.11)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: .2 Camalot and a green Alien (or something similar to those) work best for the start. Don't forget to bring a #3 Camalot for higher up.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Carruthers-Hauser (5.10+)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: Walked by a couple other routes on the way to this one but didn't get on them. Will have to check them out next time.


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Book of Saturday (5.11a R)
By: Steven Lucarelli When: Jul 10, 2013

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Comments: Just climbed this with double 70m ropes and linked 1/2, 3/4, 5/6, 7/8, 9/10 & 11/12. All the pitches linked easily with minimal rope drag and four of them were full 70m pitches with no simul-climbing required. Also rapped the route in the same manner for 6 rappels plus one to get down from the starting ledge.

A single rack of 5 cams from .4 to 2 is plenty plus about 16 shoulder length runners.


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