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Member Since: May 24, 2007
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact stevecurtis


Point Rank: # 2,720
Total Points: 179
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 165 | Routes 4 | Areas 1 | Photos 9 | Page Improvments | Comments 79 | Posts 69 | Stars 3 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Johnson Mountain : The Force Boyle. (5.11 A0)
By: stevecurtis When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Did this last week. A good route. My partner freed everything while following (we were three) He thought about 12 A.


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Western Hardman (5.11)
By: stevecurtis When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: We did this thing mid may. Conditions couldn't have been better, but the weather deteriorated on our hike to the fin.

The route is great, low commitment, well protected above 5.8. I did a really dumb man variation on the second to the last pitch. Into a very loose corner and face far left. The pitch above the last rap looks good too.
It is possible to do a tyrolean type rap for the second from the top. Speeds matters.
10C is probably a better grade


Location: UT : House Range : West Sawtooth Canyon : Snake Dike Wall : Anti-Crack (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: A fun route with a thin crux. I thought the grade was closer to 11a.


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Auburn Cliffs : Twin Towers : Chariots on Fire (5.12a)
By: stevecurtis When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Another great route, but at the end of the day, I was wasted for the second pitch. It did feel a bit harder than the 12A out front. This one is still dirty too. Should clean up well with some traffic.

Got on this again, and took off another 50 pounds of rock before the arete. There is a good route in there someplace. Getting onto the arete is 11+ or 12 A.


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Auburn Cliffs : Twin Towers : Release the Lions (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Did this one 20 April. A really good sustained climb. For reference, I found it about as hard as the good 12 A in the first alcove.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : Iron Curtain : Aloha Patrol (5.11b)
By: stevecurtis When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: I agree with the 11B rating. Anyway, a fun route. Do it in two pitches, rappel in three.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: Aaron: thanks for posting the information. The routes are fun, and a unique experience. All the bolts I've used have been solid. Any glue ins?

The hand holds are generally solid, foot nubbins are generally crumbly. It is uncertain if the routes will sustain a prolonged assault by bay area climbers. During your first day or two climbing table, you might find the grades about appropriate. For me, once I got accustomed to the tuft, I found the grades a bit soft. I took some falls on one of ... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Polar Bear Spire (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 28, 2012

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Comments: Way painful, needs a date with a file.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Old And In The Way (5.11b)
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 28, 2012

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Comments: I finally did this with Jerry's beta from Jonathan. I suppose this might feel like a soft 11 to someone accustomed to 10 ft routes on the damp side of a boulder. For me, the first bit is harder than anything on stone free or the other 12As on the cliff. But I'm an endurance climber.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Bubble : Catchy (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 28, 2012

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Comments: I finally did this route. The lower crux is thuggish-one can fall on his belayer if he misses the left holds. The crux bulge for me was underclinging, to a few bear hug moves, to a good slot without feet. The top is too easy to worry about.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Everlasting Gobstopper (5.10d)
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 21, 2012

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Comments: 10D? Hummm. Yeh, I guess I've found 10Ds at laurel knob like this one.

I agree, best route at the cliff.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Lemonhead (5.11b)
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 21, 2012

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Comments: 11 B is probably a good grade if you do the left finish. The right finish is significantly harder than the first crux, and significantly harder than Zagnut. I've climbed more than a few routes in Cochise. Welcome to the sandbag.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : One Of These Days Buttress : Pictures of Me (5.10c PG13)
By: stevecurtis When: Aug 6, 2012

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Comments: There are at least two climbs between bush league and pictures. I did both. The direct start to Bush league is much harder than 10 C. the other climb, a bit further left, goes directly up to the corner of the roof, and finishes above a fixed piton. This one has two 11A/B cruxes, and has one spot of marginal pro.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Chapel Wall : New Wave (5.11d)
By: stevecurtis When: Apr 7, 2012

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Comments: A few of the bolts are bad. Three are spinners, and the last is rusted badly and a bit undermined behind.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Carbuncle Buttress : Made to be Broken (5.10+ PG13)
By: stevecurtis When: Mar 10, 2012

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Comments: I found the route challenging for 10+. Furthermore, there are runouts, and at least one spot where one must make crux moves before clipping the bolt, over a small ledge.

A rope solo. I'd give it a PG13.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier : Amazing Face (5.10a)
By: stevecurtis When: Jan 2, 2012

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Comments: rope solo. I liked the route. Thanks to whomever keeps the Amazing Face "amazing".


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier : Dinosaur (5.11d R)
By: stevecurtis When: Jan 2, 2012

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Comments: Top roped this today. A bit stout.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Lower Tier : Bolt Route (5.11a)
By: stevecurtis When: Jan 2, 2012

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Comments: I rope soloed this today. Easy enough with the bolts every 5 feet. My first impression--11c/d. Glad to see others agree. Now, start calling that route right of the crack what it is--12B.


Location: International : Europe : Germany : Elbsandstein
By: stevecurtis When: Jul 24, 2011

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Comments: I recently returned from 11 days climbing on the Elb. A few comments

I lived in Germany 6 years, and friends suggested I visit on many occasions. When I heard they'd take away my metal and chalk, and denigrate my tape gloves, I declined, thinking "stupid commie rules".

Well, the Elb abounds with silly rules, but I would highly recommend the experience. The rules are an attempt to keep the Elbsandsteingebirge a climbing museum. "Our Ompahs climbed 5.11 in 1925 without modern gear--so will y... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : Absolutely Brilliant (5.11b)
By: stevecurtis When: Jul 17, 2011

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Comments: Visited the leap for the first time in over 20 years. We did about 15 pitches. This was my favorite sport climb. I found it a mighty stiff 11 B.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : La Escuela (5.11b)
By: stevecurtis When: May 1, 2011

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Comments: Tried the first 30 ft. All of this was wet. (30 April 2011) The first bit is probably 11 a if you don't place pro. I'm not sure what it would be placing pro on lead (I aided to get some pro, and then did it). Above the pin, the locks were wet, and felt improbable. I bailed.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : Photo
By: stevecurtis When: Feb 23, 2011

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Comments: I just came across this crazy conversation.

You all have a magnificent playground. I live near Yosemite, but have spent several weeks in South Arizona in the past few years. Yes, some Cochise stuff is run out and dangerous, other sheepshead area routes seem over bolted, maybe over cleaned and somewhat glued.

I'll repeat. You have a magnificent playground.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Coati Corner (5.11-)
By: stevecurtis When: Jan 19, 2011

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Comments: From the ground, the route looks trivial. However, there is a ton of good climbing. I was a bit surprised by the bolts near solid gear. A bit out of character for Cochise. (However, the sandbag grade is totally in character) Be prepared for a few tough committing moves out of the corner to the belay.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Ringtail Arete (5.10+)
By: stevecurtis When: Jan 19, 2011

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Comments: Onsight ascent.

This route continues the fine tradition of Cochise Sandbagging. From the ground, the route looks insignificant and easy. It is neither. Nice route.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : Land of the Free (5.12b)
By: stevecurtis When: Jan 9, 2011

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Comments: This is my favorite route at el potrero after 4 weeks of climbing there. Steep, long and varied. Easily tamed with a single rack of cams. The last pitch is indeed tricky. Since I got within 6 inches of the onsight, I'd better call it 12 A.


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