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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : Rockfellow Dome : Abracadaver (5.11a)
By: stevecurtis When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few things to add.
I thought it felt like yosemite 11A crack. Arizona??
Pitch 4 is the sleeper. I placed a red alien blind from a layback. I'd give the pitch an R. One of the best climbs of the grade on granite.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Craftwork (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful, with a bit of a boulder problem low, and endurance finger crack higher, becoming easier as you go. Probably a bit soft for the grade.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Bishop Crack (5.12c)
By: stevecurtis When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Stetler that this is a great one pitch route. Who cares what people have done before? You can cop a marginal rest, bruising your feet, before the upper section. I took a couple of 40 ft falls on purple metolius going for the redpoint. Most of the upper section, but not all, had good locks for me. My fingers are average for a climber of 30 years.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Psycho Physics (5.11b/c R)
By: stevecurtis When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tried this thing with Pat some years ago. The "boulder problem" start was much harder than 11B--never got it. Rest of the route was pretty good, then a little run out at the top.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes : Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: stevecurtis When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I couldn't pass up the chance to put an entry in from our ascent in 1999, since the other oldest ones are '02. Anyway, I did this with Walter Huber, an ex pat Swiss in Evergreen. At the time, there was a really decrepit #2 Loweball protecting the opening moves on the crux. Walter weighed in at about 110 pounds, and led the thing. The other 11s were mine. We got off route to the right some for a pitch or two below the big ledge. Decent 5.10 climbing, with one runout section. The rest... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : The Castle : Rapunzal (5.11a)
By: stevecurtis When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Per Pat's Beta, I did this about 1998. Excellent long thin hands route with pro opportunity green Alien to blue Camalot. Medium to large nuts. A bit marred by the gully close by. The decent was a steep bushwhack.
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Location: AZ : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : The Mace : Original Route (5.9+)
By: stevecurtis When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Onsight rope solo.
Probably the best desert tower I've done. I did think it was a bit of a sandbag, with the last pitch closer to 5.10 than 5.9. But in my book, 5.9 + generally means quite a bit harder than 5.9.
The large camalot was necessary for me up high.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : The Checkerboard Wall : King Me (5.10)
By: stevecurtis When: May 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: To identify the start, look for 4 black streaks on a wall left. The climb begins on loose appearing flakes 15 ft up.
There is a fair bit requiring a trundle on pitch 2. I'd recommend this route over the exit gully. One star is about right.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Debutante's Ball (5.11)
By: stevecurtis When: May 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We thought this route was worth doing--once.
The start is tough to find and loose. After that, we wandered right and left for 50 or more feet, and got back on line at pitch 5. The top of the route is easier to follow.
The rotten crack pitch requires care--take a # 4 Camalot. Pitch 8 and the area below the black dihedral contain vibrating death blocks. The dihedral itself is often rotten. Enjoy.
By the way, a big piece at the start of the route fell off.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes : Crystal Vision (5.11 R)
By: stevecurtis When: May 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If Atlantis gets 3.5 stars, this gets 1.5. A good but not great route. A few comments:
We searched for 2 hours for the rappel. It is not in the obvious gully. It faces the wall right of the Painted Wall--arete area??. Probably 200 ft right of the painted wall overlook. It starts about 125 ft down from the rim, and is easy to follow. The gully slummin' below is actually pleasant.
The route starts next to some huge boulders leaning against the cliff. These are the higher boulders, there i... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Rim Routes : Atlantis (5.11 PG13)
By: stevecurtis When: May 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route was better than the Scenic Cruise. A bit harder, and more of a face route. A few comments.
The approach gully is the pits. The start of the route is reasonably obvious--plus, some kind soul put a 20 ft branch up pointing the way. We walked along the river. To be assure of finding it: After reaching the river, walk along the base of the cliff until you find the cairn and the features. The climb starts on the left side of some big slabs. The cliff steepens more up river... more >>
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area : The Prow (5.11d)
By: stevecurtis When: Jun 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, I fell on the 4th pitch, I found the fifth much easier. I'm an old california crack climber. (the fourth was wet.)
I drove all night to climb the route the next morning with my buddy e-man. Steve
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Medicine Man (5.12b)
By: stevecurtis When: May 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best. There is no longer fixed gear on the route. Belays all solid. I found the last roof as hard as the second. We used 4 green, 5 red, two yellow, 2 blue Camalot.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Poe Buttress : Edge of Fright (5.11 R)
By: stevecurtis When: Apr 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Onsight 1997. Yes, the name was apt. I used a bunch of RPs and sliders, and then didn't have decent pro at the little roof. The next year I went back with my friend Pat, and he led it with some type of a trick tri-cam. Looked safe.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Poe Buttress : Mississippi Half-Step (5.11d)
By: stevecurtis When: Apr 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Onsight 1997. I remember a very difficult off hands jam at the crux.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitc... (5.12a)
By: stevecurtis When: Apr 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Redpoint 1997. Do all the pitches. This makes it three star. It is possible to stay right after Rufus all the way to the horizontal.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Piece of Cake (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: Apr 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was the easiest of the "11C" roof cracks. Painful too. Onsight 1996
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