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Member Since: May 24, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact stevecurtis

Point Rank: # 2,991
Total Points: 181
Last Year: 2
Last 30 Days: 1
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 175 | Routes 4 | Areas 1 | Photos 9 | Page Improvements | Comments 81 | Posts 77 | Stars 3 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Rising Crescendo

5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R (5)

Trad, 2 pitches, 175'

CO : South Platte : ... : Cynical Pinnacle

Nov 17, 2009

Perfect Vision

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R (2)

Trad, 5 pitches, 600'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Higher Cathedral Rock

Apr 14, 2008

The Crucifix

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (7)

Trad, 5 pitches, 700'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Higher Cathedral Rock

Apr 13, 2008

Fatal Mistake

5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b (4)

Trad, 3 pitches, 300'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : 32 - Elephant Rock

Mar 30, 2008

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Ribbon Falls Ampitheater

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Ribbon Falls Area

Mar 30, 2008

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
I-Turkey butt shot.

I-Turkey butt shot.

CO : South Platte : ... : I Turkey/ Resurrection (5.12a/b)

Jun 6, 2010

Getting started in the crux chimney.

Getting started in the crux chimney.

CO : Gunnison : ... : Flakes, The (5.10+ X)

Jun 6, 2010

Good gear midway up the X chimney.  Gold offset nu...

Good gear midway up the X chimney. Gold offset nut.

CO : Gunnison : ... : Flakes, The (5.10+ X)

Jun 6, 2010

11 a peg hand crack.  Very fun.

11 a peg hand crack. Very fun.

CO : Gunnison : ... : No Country for Old Men (5.11 R)

Jun 6, 2010

Crux, a little stiff.

Crux, a little stiff.

CO : Gunnison : ... : No Country for Old Men (5.11 R)

Jun 6, 2010

third pitch before the long runout.  A fall above ...

third pitch before the long runout. A fall above could be 70 ft but harmless--you'd terrorize the climbers on Dark Shadows.

NV : Red Rock : ... : Excellent Adventure (5.11c R)

Apr 3, 2010

Starting the crux pitch.

Starting the crux pitch.

CO : Gunnison : ... : Debutante's Ball (5.11)

May 25, 2009

Slotting the Czech nut on pitch 9.

Slotting the Czech nut on pitch 9.

CO : Gunnison : ... : Crystal Vision (5.11 PG13)

May 25, 2009

Pitch four before the crux.

Pitch four before the crux.

CO : Gunnison : ... : Atlantis (5.11 PG13)

May 25, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Liberty Cap : Scarface (Free) (5.12)
By: stevecurtis When: May 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: WE enjoyed the route. Did it 1 May.

The second pitch was really wet and a slick layback
We took off a few loose blocks on the fourth, and elsewhere.
A second #4 isn't needed on pitch 7. I didn't use any #3 on the pitch either.
We used 3-4 yellow aliens and purple camalots on nearly every pitch. Three greens are also a good idea. double purple master cam. Doubles to yellow camalot, single 3 and 4. Singles on very small cams. A set of offset nuts.
We got lost on pitch 10. Here i... more >>


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Book of Saturday (5.11a R)
By: stevecurtis When: Aug 2, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I did this with John Robinson. It was a good, long day. There are a few spots with reasonably hard --10A --climbing, loose holds, injury fall. On pitch 7 or 8, there was at least 200 lbs of vertical rock ready to go, in the correct line. John knocked most of it off when he came up.

No 5.11 climbing. Be adept at easy 5.10, way over your gear, on loose rock. I was most impressed with my 70 year old partner. We swung leads the entire day. A single set of cams, maybe with two red aliens, up... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Johnson Mountain : The Force Boyle. (5.11 A0)
By: stevecurtis When: Mar 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Did this last week. A good route. My partner freed everything while following (we were three) He thought about 12 A.


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Western Hardman (5.11)
By: stevecurtis When: May 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: We did this thing mid may. Conditions couldn't have been better, but the weather deteriorated on our hike to the fin.

The route is great, low commitment, well protected above 5.8. I did a really dumb man variation on the second to the last pitch. Into a very loose corner and face far left. The pitch above the last rap looks good too.
It is possible to do a tyrolean type rap for the second from the top. Speeds matters.
10C is probably a better grade


Location: UT : House Range : West Sawtooth Canyon : Snake Dike Wall : Anti-Crack (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: May 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A fun route with a thin crux. I thought the grade was closer to 11a.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs : Twin Towers : Chariots on Fire (5.12a)
By: stevecurtis When: Apr 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Another great route, but at the end of the day, I was wasted for the second pitch. It did feel a bit harder than the 12A out front. This one is still dirty too. Should clean up well with some traffic.

Got on this again, and took off another 50 pounds of rock before the arete. There is a good route in there someplace. Getting onto the arete is 11+ or 12 A.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs : Twin Towers : Release the Lions (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: Apr 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Did this one 20 April. A really good sustained climb. For reference, I found it about as hard as the good 12 A in the first alcove.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : Iron Curtain : Aloha Patrol (5.11b)
By: stevecurtis When: Feb 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with the 11B rating. Anyway, a fun route. Do it in two pitches, rappel in three.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 29, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Aaron: thanks for posting the information. The routes are fun, and a unique experience. All the bolts I've used have been solid. Any glue ins?

The hand holds are generally solid, foot nubbins are generally crumbly. It is uncertain if the routes will sustain a prolonged assault by bay area climbers. During your first day or two climbing table, you might find the grades about appropriate. For me, once I got accustomed to the tuft, I found the grades a bit soft. I took some falls on one of ... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Polar Bear Spire (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Way painful, needs a date with a file.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Old And In The Way (5.11b)
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I finally did this with Jerry's beta from Jonathan. I suppose this might feel like a soft 11 to someone accustomed to 10 ft routes on the damp side of a boulder. For me, the first bit is harder than anything on stone free or the other 12As on the cliff. But I'm an endurance climber.


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