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Member Since: May 24, 2007
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,717
Total Points: 179
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 165 | Routes 4 | Areas 1 | Photos 9 | Page Improvments | Comments 79 | Posts 69 | Stars 3 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Rising Crescendo

5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R (5)

Trad, 2 pitches, 175'

CO : South Platte : ... : Cynical Pinnacle

Nov 17, 2009

Perfect Vision

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R (2)

Trad, 5 pitches, 600'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Higher Cathedral Rock

Apr 14, 2008

The Crucifix

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (6)

Trad, 5 pitches, 700'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Higher Cathedral Rock

Apr 13, 2008

Fatal Mistake

5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b (4)

Trad, 3 pitches, 300'

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Elephant Rock

Mar 30, 2008

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Ribbon Falls Ampitheater

CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Ribbon Falls Area

Mar 30, 2008

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
I-Turkey butt shot.

I-Turkey butt shot.

CO : South Platte : ... : I Turkey/ Resurrection (5.12a/b)

Jun 6, 2010

Getting started in the crux chimney.

Getting started in the crux chimney.

CO : Gunnison : ... : Flakes, The (5.10+ X)

Jun 6, 2010

Good gear midway up the X chimney.  Gold offset nut.

Good gear midway up the X chimney. Gold offset nut.

CO : Gunnison : ... : Flakes, The (5.10+ X)

Jun 6, 2010

11 a peg hand crack.  Very fun.

11 a peg hand crack. Very fun.

CO : Gunnison : ... : No Country for Old Men (5.11 R)

Jun 6, 2010

Crux, a little stiff.

Crux, a little stiff.

CO : Gunnison : ... : No Country for Old Men (5.11 R)

Jun 6, 2010

third pitch before the long runout.  A fall above could be 70 ft but harmless--you'd terrorize the climbers on Dark Shadows.

third pitch before the long runout. A fall above could be 70 ft but harmless--you'd terrorize the climbers on Dark Shadows.

NV : Red Rock : ... : Excellent Adventure (5.11c R)

Apr 3, 2010

Starting the crux pitch.

Starting the crux pitch.

CO : Gunnison : ... : Debutante's Ball (5.11)

May 25, 2009

Slotting the Czech nut on pitch 9.

Slotting the Czech nut on pitch 9.

CO : Gunnison : ... : Crystal Vision (5.11 R)

May 25, 2009

Pitch four before the crux.

Pitch four before the crux.

CO : Gunnison : ... : Atlantis (5.11 PG13)

May 25, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Johnson Mountain : The Force Boyle. (5.11 A0)
By: stevecurtis When: Mar 31, 2014

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Comments: Did this last week. A good route. My partner freed everything while following (we were three) He thought about 12 A.


Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Western Hardman (5.11)
By: stevecurtis When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: We did this thing mid may. Conditions couldn't have been better, but the weather deteriorated on our hike to the fin.

The route is great, low commitment, well protected above 5.8. I did a really dumb man variation on the second to the last pitch. Into a very loose corner and face far left. The pitch above the last rap looks good too.
It is possible to do a tyrolean type rap for the second from the top. Speeds matters.
10C is probably a better grade


Location: UT : House Range : West Sawtooth Canyon : Snake Dike Wall : Anti-Crack (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: A fun route with a thin crux. I thought the grade was closer to 11a.


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Auburn Cliffs : Twin Towers : Chariots on Fire (5.12a)
By: stevecurtis When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Another great route, but at the end of the day, I was wasted for the second pitch. It did feel a bit harder than the 12A out front. This one is still dirty too. Should clean up well with some traffic.

Got on this again, and took off another 50 pounds of rock before the arete. There is a good route in there someplace. Getting onto the arete is 11+ or 12 A.


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : Auburn Cliffs : Twin Towers : Release the Lions (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Did this one 20 April. A really good sustained climb. For reference, I found it about as hard as the good 12 A in the first alcove.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : Iron Curtain : Aloha Patrol (5.11b)
By: stevecurtis When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: I agree with the 11B rating. Anyway, a fun route. Do it in two pitches, rappel in three.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 29, 2012

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Comments: Aaron: thanks for posting the information. The routes are fun, and a unique experience. All the bolts I've used have been solid. Any glue ins?

The hand holds are generally solid, foot nubbins are generally crumbly. It is uncertain if the routes will sustain a prolonged assault by bay area climbers. During your first day or two climbing table, you might find the grades about appropriate. For me, once I got accustomed to the tuft, I found the grades a bit soft. I took some falls on one of ... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Polar Bear Spire (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 28, 2012

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Comments: Way painful, needs a date with a file.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Old And In The Way (5.11b)
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 28, 2012

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Comments: I finally did this with Jerry's beta from Jonathan. I suppose this might feel like a soft 11 to someone accustomed to 10 ft routes on the damp side of a boulder. For me, the first bit is harder than anything on stone free or the other 12As on the cliff. But I'm an endurance climber.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay : Mount St. Helena : The Bubble : Catchy (5.11c)
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 28, 2012

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Comments: I finally did this route. The lower crux is thuggish-one can fall on his belayer if he misses the left holds. The crux bulge for me was underclinging, to a few bear hug moves, to a good slot without feet. The top is too easy to worry about.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Everlasting Gobstopper (5.10d)
By: stevecurtis When: Dec 21, 2012

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Comments: 10D? Hummm. Yeh, I guess I've found 10Ds at laurel knob like this one.

I agree, best route at the cliff.


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