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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall
By: Steve Woods When: Sep 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The climb to the left of SY was finally sent yesterday by Daniel Woods, and he called it "Fountain of Youth". He thought it might be 5.13c/d but not 5.14.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: Steve Woods When: Sep 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Had to see what this one was all about. Definitely, a classic, but the climbing was more of a three star quality. It probably earns another star for the WOW combined with the thrill of leading this thing. I used a .5 Friend in a horizontal slot between the first and second bolt. Definitely felt at least 10a here, perhaps because of the traffic it's seen over the years. Lots of shoe rubber. Easy climbing between the second and third bolt then a committing move for someone 5'8" (somewhat runo... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Truly Scrumptious aka The A... (V10)
By: Steve Woods When: Sep 12, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: AC, your suspicion is correct... DW's line is the same as Celos (left of Animal Tagging) but without a "cheater block" start. He said he did three or four hard moves before reaching the lip. --cheers
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Suburban Cowgirls (5.11c R)
By: Steve Woods When: Jul 21, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route, but not sure where the 11c grade comes from. It felt all of 5.12a to me. ;-) The second clip is sketchy, but can be done from the right-hand crimp before comitting to the left-hand crimp sidepull. Powerfull start to technical/balancey crux to awkward mantel.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Killer Pillar (5.10b)
By: Steve Woods When: Mar 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I gave this two stars. I thought it was a good sustained warmup.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Below Monitor Rock : Synthemesc (V9)
By: Steve Woods When: Nov 7, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Needs a repeat to confim grade... might be V8.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : West Dihedral (5.4)
By: Steve Woods When: Jul 6, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Took my brother up this fun route and noticed that the cable is frayed in one spot almost clean through. It's backed up with webbing, but you might want to traverse over to the West Crack anchors.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : 420's : Fuck You Finger (V11)
By: Steve Woods When: Apr 20, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, the name came about when Luke Parady was working the project and ripped his middle finger on the incredibly sharp crimps. It is aptly named.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : 420's : Fuck You Finger (V11)
By: Steve Woods When: Apr 19, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Peter, Daniel Woods is working it from a sit start on the far left arete (start of One Ton Ho) traversing through the bottom of Scarface then up The Fuck You Finger, finishing up and right. He was one move from hitting the sloper rail then gave it a rest. He thinks it will be V12 easily, and maybe V13.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : 420's : Hank's Arete (V4)
By: Steve Woods When: Jan 12, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: After hitting the jug above the starting holds, does this then take the arete traverse leftward across the top of Hanks? If so, the traverse itself is V3/4 and extremely fun. If you cannot do the harder start, try jumping to the jug and starting.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Nomad's Cave : Freaks and Geeks (5.14-)
By: Steve Woods When: Nov 10, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are any of the holds drilled on Freaks and Geeks?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : Original Grapple (V4)
By: Steve Woods When: Nov 9, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is too easy for V4. The V1 on the A7 boulder is way harder. (It's plenty fun though.)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Fly Swatter (5.10c)
By: Steve Woods When: Sep 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just did the route today. It was not what I expected at all. I thought it would be a scary 10c slab and it turned out to be a fun, slightly overhanging arete, with lie-backs on good holds. I guess it depends on your perspective. ;-) I'd vote to give it a star.
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