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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Vulture Lookout : Magic Mushroom (5.12b/c)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Nick, I'm psyched to see some of these harder climbs finally get done .You guys are pulling down. Its good to hear that we provide some "sort" of inspiration and also your efforts inspire my climbing too. Also nice job on Acid Rock,it proves Jason is not a freak....or does it. If ya make it Eldo to look me up. Pull Down Cut loose Throw up.
peace steve s.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Vulture Lookout : Magic Mushroom (5.12b/c)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Nov 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: yo punters chill out.
Alex, I have no reason to doubt Rich's claim of the FA.I well remember when Duke o puke Sloshbury told me of their fa of this line and it was long before you started hanging with Pete. Saying DL climbers are doing the same old routes is an insult to them.
I do beleive the climbers at dl are finding new routes and new ways to climb some of the old ones...i.e the leading of some of the harder climbs that we were to weak and scared to pull off.
peace and fuk-nes steve s.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Poison Ivy Wall : Under the Bottle (5.11b X)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: fa rich bechler with pete assisting with the bottle?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest : Degrade Your Sister (5.11a)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: fa...uber schimdt,ralph ?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : The Guillotine/No Sweat : Mongo Fury (5.10c)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: yo,me thinks the first lead of MONGO FURY was by Barry Rugo and Arturo ...a very long time ago.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Between the Cracks (5.10+ PG13)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Mar 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wayne, I believe there already is a route named "Road to Nowhere", although without the question mark. It's on Hawk Eagle Ridge next to D.O.A. and Cinch Crack. Peace and f-nes. Steve S.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : NED (Nothing Except Dynamic... (5.12b PG13) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jan 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The belayer is belayin' off the metal pipe that sticks out of the concrete slab. That's so he can play hacky sac and imbibe in other frivolities.
At least that the way it was done.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Thoroughfare (5.11a) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jan 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rich, I always thougt this was a good pic. I got some more from the same ascent,I will try to post em ,but don't hold yer breath.Puke now.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Sometime Crack (5.10a) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jan 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: bob,what type of shoe are ya wearin'?
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : Flake Route (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jan 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That would be the 2nd lead. Note the "flake" is still there and he was smart enough to not bother tieing it off.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Flatus (5.11b) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jan 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: BLACK RIB FER SURE. NICE SEND BOB.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress : Stool Pidgeon (5.11b R)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Oct 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yo,Nice photo and a nice send too,Kris.
The route name Stool Pidgeon conjures up images of the Uber Giant,Ralph Schimdt?....I sure thats who did the first t.r.
as for the coveted first lead,looks like Kris G. wins the prize. peace and f-nes
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Sidewinder (5.11+)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Sep 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kevin, this is a good line. I seem to remember doing it a very long time ago, but don't remember going all the way over to the other crack (Beginner's Mind?). I do not think we were the first to do this either.
Killer climbing on killer rock.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Freak on a Leash (5.12d)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Aug 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: YO, sorry if this seems underrated but both Chip and myself are old school and did not feel like it was harder than 12d (i.e. if we could do it it was not 5.13). The route was Chip's idea. When I finally did it, I lightened my load by leading it on a 9mil rope. Fun, devious crux, don't clip the last 2 bolts until after you do the crux.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Freaky Face (5.10d)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jul 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: john ,my memory is losing it on this one ....I beleive it was 1st done by a young tommy d.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Alligator Wall (5.9+)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jul 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: tr fa the infamous tommy d.
first lead. rich and dave
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Deceptive (5.10c/d PG13)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jul 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: not sure on the fa on this one .....perhaps the infamous Ralph schimdt and Sal sepson
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Alligator Wall (5.9+)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jul 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: fa = dlfa
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Coyote Tower : Hydroponics (5.8)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Jun 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: we did this in the early 1980's (1982 ? ) steve sangdahl and jack klien
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Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall : West Face of Tower (5.8 PG13)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: May 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes,this aging DLFAer remembers doing this in about 1983.peace and f-nes. steve s
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area : Laser Beam (5.11b) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Nov 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rich, Let us salute Eli's jackness. AS jacked a cheese head as there ever was.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : New Sandstone Area : Laser Beam (5.11b) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Nov 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rich, not sure...but if it was the 2nd It was probably from Eli.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : D.L.F.A (5.11) : Photo
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Nov 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: photo courtesy Dave Langhoff
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Bird-Foot Buttress : American Dream Roof (5.10d)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Oct 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: F.A. : Rich Bechler and some DLFA losers circa 1982. Rich led this and we then all promptly led it on his gear. Fun route even if it is abit short.Rich later went back and did a direct start?
The crags and bouldering in this area make for some pretty fun exploring and cragging. The trail/road on top was also fun mtn. biking. peace and f-nes
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Tango (5.11)
By: Steve Sangdahl When: Sep 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yo Wayne and crew, Nice send! 3 years ago I rapped down this and knocked some of the loose junk off and ... a little later while climbing near by I see Josh Wharton top roping this line. We discussed it and he says he was going to come back and lead it ...not sure if he did. You probably did do the first lead. Anybody out there know? Cool line either way!!! peace and f-nes.
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