Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker : Main Vein (5.11)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Jun 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The season is coming upon us again. The comments regarding the time of day for climbing this route are right on. If the weather is solid, starting the route at or around eleven am is great fun. The sun comes around and warms the whole area up, like a solar amphitheater. The sunsets are striking, with the Diamond and the rest of the cirque surrounding. You might find yourself dallying to take in the wonder of being in such a fine place. Just don't do the descent in the total dark.
I woul... more >>
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Between The Sheets (5.11b)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Jun 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: In addition to the thin gear: a 0.75 Camalot works nicely below the crux, right after a very thin section.
|
Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : The Checkerboard Wall : Checkerboard Wall (5.10)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Jun 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Several years ago, I did something different on the last pitch from what is described here. Instead of going left to finish on the upper slab, I continued up and right to a short seam. This seemed harder and scarier than the rest of the route. I wonder, does someone know what this is?
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Between The Sheets (5.11b)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Jun 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, it is Seams Like A Dream. Check it out!
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Big Thompson Canyon Ice : ??? (WI4-5 M5-6)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Feb 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: All right, I think these guys should own up and give this route a nice name, post both first ascenders in the description, and put this fine route - that was enjoyed by more than a few – to a dignified rest; before we forget about it, and it fades away into obscurity. I can’t speak for all of those that climbed ice in the Big T this season, but, all in all, it was enjoyable for me. There was a reason I gave a route the name Peace Break. And, after thinking about it…I don’t want to ... more >>
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Big Thompson Canyon Ice : ??? (WI4-5 M5-6)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Feb 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aaron and Buster:
In case it wasn't totally obvious, my prior statement was sarcastic (or sardonic). I don't think it was appropriate to attack Allen; there really was no reason. His response was not insulting (mine might have been). To an extent, I can handle the route snooping (wont affect me, also, the two of you can be ignored). The bolted rappel is nice, you must have used it at least once to rappel (it helps avoid further trespassing on the descent).
Everyone else:
There ar... more >>
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Big Thompson Canyon Ice : ??? (WI4-5 M5-6)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Feb 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aaron, Buster:
You’re welcome, I'm glad to have arranged some fun and excitement for a couple of ego-less, new-to-the-seen, but very knowledgeable climbers like yourselves. Just to know that you two enjoyed this is all very worthwhile. Keep up your good hard work.
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Big Thompson Canyon Ice : ??? (WI4-5 M5-6)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Jan 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tr'd the right side, the thin ice over the top was very thin and not really any help, except maybe out to the left; pretty much after pulling over the lip. As I said, I'm still interested in establishing this as a lead.
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Big Thompson Canyon Ice : ??? (WI4-5 M5-6)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Jan 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey All,
I toproped the right side of the roof (forms a short dihedral), and thought it was worthy of looking at again. To lead, I thought, along with some gear, it could use a bolt or two near the top. Due to the small sloping ledges on the right side, even a small whipper looks a bit nasty. I would be interested in checking this out again soon; sounds like a few of us would. Even the toprope was a lot of fun, with the thin ice over the lip, it's pretty cool.
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Big Thompson Canyon Ice : ??? (WI4-5 M5-6)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Jan 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone led any part of the mixed overhang above?
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Ironing Board Slabs (Upper ... : Coal Room (5.10 PG13)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Dec 10, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route The Coal Room is really only a one-star route.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Ironing Board Slabs (Upper ... : Ten Second High (5.10)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Nov 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the start was about 11b, and I don't really have a name.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Ironing Board Slabs (Upper ... : Coal Room (5.10 PG13)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Nov 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is just around the corner of the dihedral about twenty feet left and ends at the base of the second slab. My idea was to maybe continue the route on the second slab as a single pitch.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Ironing Board Slabs (Upper ... : Ten Second High (5.10)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Nov 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes it is, then it cuts left out of the picture at small ledge which is hard to see in the picture. I may have a picture with the route, if I do, I'll post it.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Ironing Board Slabs (Upper ... : Coal Room (5.10 PG13)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Nov 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: No bolt in the dihedral; it is left of Code Rainbow. I have climbed the dihedral you are referring to - it's really pretty nice and needs to be added to the site; climbs at about 5.9. Coal Room starts in this dihedral for a short ways to a small ledge, then makes an easy traverse left for maybe ten feet to a bolt. The route continues left and up to another dihedral. It ends at another set of anchors, left of the ones at the top of the slab.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Ironing Board Slabs (Upper ... : Bee Line Highway (5.9+)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Nov 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: In 2004, I added a bolt-anchor to the top of the slab in hopes of returning and adding a few bolts to allow for a reasonable lead. I think this could be a mix of gear and bolts; and when finished, as a lead, it may be two out-of five stars.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Ironing Board Slabs (Upper ... : Ten Second High (5.10)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Nov 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice to see this added. We named this 10-Second High (my son just turned ten, and it is pretty short). I don't mind the name given either. I rated this 5.8+, but it might be more like 5.9 or .10a, whatever. A #0 TCU at the start is pretty handy, and a #2 TCU at the top, in a horizontal to continue on the face - rather than stepping around left.
|
Location: UT : Zion National Park : Angel's Landing : Northeast Buttress (5.11a R)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Oct 24, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone else have info/opinions on the runouts? Much appreciated.
|
Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Talent Scout : Powerglide (V8)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Sep 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believed Joseph has this problem confused with the Talent Scout Roof, because the problem she's on is not V3. It is in fact somewhere near V8. Indeed there are "eliminates" to the problem Talent Scout that check in at V8 (and one of them may have been know as Power Glide), but the route pictured here is commonly known today as Power Glide V8; it has unique holds until the move left to the in-cut on Talent Scout. The route Joseph describes sounds a lot like the present day Talent Sc... more >>
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : King Cat (5.11+)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Mar 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: T.G. gave this one away. 5.11d
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : unnamed (5.10+)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Mar 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: However, regarding the grade, this route does have a crux. 5.11a
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Toprope Right of Formula (5.12)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Dec 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not knowing about this nice looking route as I was looking at it the other day, a thought occurred to me; "Eldo could still use some thoughtfully established routes with bolts, but not necessarily bolted routes". Headpoints are good too. Often a nice lead will have a greater climbing quality than a top-roped climb; so will a headpoint.
|
Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Wall : Cryogenics (5.10a)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Sep 2, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: For the direct second pitch, I remember the small cams mentioned after the stemming; then a larger cam, a bolt over the small roof and a pin about ten feet after. Nice, challenging, finish to good climb; I think it protects better than the alternate finish, for both the leader and the second.
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker : Main Vein (5.11)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Jul 10, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Marmot story from the victim...
All who [knew] Mike loved him well and many miss him. His contributions and short-lived experiences were adding up quickly. And it saddens me to know that, among other things, Mike never got the chance to try this route again.
As I was belaying Mike up the second pitch, I notice the varmint scrounging through my stuff. When I saw that he had my shoe and was making off with it, I started lobbing rocks over Mike's head (I could tell Mike [knew] this was use... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : East Ridge (5.10)
By: Steve McCorkel When: Jun 26, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the first pitch felt like 9+, good jams and locks the whole way. What is the direct start with the sportily placed bolt protection? The rock was a little grungy, and felt difficult enough to be an alternate crux to the route. Nice moves and a little devious.
|
RSS Feed
