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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : Photo
By: steve edwards When: 11 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: is anybody ever going to get this? did all of you start climbing this century, fer crissakes?
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : Photo
By: steve edwards When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where's the tai chi master?
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Crag Full of Dynamite : Photo
By: steve edwards When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think there's more people on this wall in this photo than climbed these routes in total in the 10 or so years I lived in SB.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Gimme Danger (5.10+) : Photo
By: steve edwards When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: drill, baby, drill!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Dragon Arch : Gimme Danger (5.10+)
By: steve edwards When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: awesome. thanks for the work!
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Wicked Bender (5.13b)
By: steve edwards When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No knee bars for me but it's a size thing. Very good route.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Way Hammered (5.12b)
By: steve edwards When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Much harder than the other two 12b's at the cliff, and a bit sporty as well.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Grushenka (5.12c)
By: steve edwards When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: More aesthetic finish is on Stop That Train because you get its crux, sans rest, after this business of Grushenka is done. Expect this to feel a lot more than one grade harder than the "12b" jug haul on the right.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : JJ Memorial (5.13a)
By: steve edwards When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think it has its own chains. Feels a ton shorter than Wicked Bender.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon : The Dry Wall : Stop that Train (5.12b)
By: steve edwards When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, this is one of the best routes in the area.
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Location: UT : Saint George : Snow Canyon State Park : West Canyon - Babes Wall : The Falcon (5.10+ X)
By: steve edwards When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That guy is pretty much everybody's favorite guidebook author.
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Location: UT : Echo Canyon
By: steve edwards When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone have any info on the wall directly across from Walter's Cave?
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Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Cabrillo Peak : Rock Land
By: steve edwards When: Jul 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wolfgang Leeb and I climbed that "Step Aside" thing sometime in the early 90s. We did the hardest line we could sort out. Since it wasn't in the book Wolfie thought it hadn't been climbed. I figured it had. I don't remember much about it except that he wanted to call it Punks in the Gym because the rock was like Gullich's route at Arapiles. Of course, it was 11-something instead of 5.14 and about 25' tall. Funny to think of this place as popular because it certainly wasn't at the time. Cool rock... more >>
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Location: CO : John Bachar Passes Away
By: steve edwards When: Jul 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: John will be missed. My respects are paid here.
http://steve-edwards.blogspot.com/2009/07/johnny-rock.html
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Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Rappel wall area : The Adventure Route (5.9+)
By: steve edwards When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has anyone checked out the upper arete? Maybe too chalky or holdless but what a line!
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Location: UT : Cedar City : The Overlook : The High Rise Area : The Crucible (5.13a)
By: steve edwards When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was hoping for a bit more description. I didn't find this route particularly sharp and there was only one mono that I didn't have to use. I didn't do it, though, as I couldn't figure out the move past the break (at least in a combo that would let me finish the route). Did the "crux" above (according to a local) and went to the top. There is a rock scar where I was shut down. Wondering if something is missing because even something tiny at the scar would make it significantly easier.
To be more ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Choss Garden : Daisy (5.10)
By: steve edwards When: Jun 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: chipping in an extra star. short but very good.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : The Lizard's Mouth : Sunset Boulevard : Call Me (V4)
By: steve edwards When: Jun 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Originally it was a good crimp and V4. That broke and it was a small pinch, V6. Then someone chipped the pocket-edge thing.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : The Lizard's Mouth : Sunset Boulevard : Take Five (V4-5)
By: steve edwards When: Jun 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Temp dependant for sure. When we were developing this area we fell off this move all summer. The first day the temps dropped at it our entire group did it.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak "Corpse Wall"
By: steve edwards When: Jun 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think they had gear in mind between some of the bolts. I know I brought some, and maybe placed it. If the routes were at my limit I certainly would have. I recommend a small rack if pushing limits and onsighting here.
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Location: CA : Los Angeles County : Santa Monica Mountains : Saddle Peak "Corpse Wall"
By: steve edwards When: Jun 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Might want to change the name to Saddle Peak, since that's where this is. This place was developed by the same guys who did Tick Rock but they've disappeared so no route info is known. Very cool place for what it is.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Flirtin' Death (5.12-)
By: steve edwards When: Jun 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Congrats, guys! Looks rad. I'll have to get up there.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Hidden Wall : Jugular (5.8)
By: steve edwards When: May 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very interesting route for the grade. Super fun. If the thing was 45 degrees overhung it would be an absolute classic.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Hidden Wall : Flakenstein (5.10d)
By: steve edwards When: May 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe I did something wrong but I found the first clip fairly grim. You're not going to die or anything but, still, as a 5.10 I was pretty focused and tried a few different stances before making this. I liked the rest of the route. Very cool climbing on excellent textured limestone. A little un-nerving at times with iffy-ish holds. Someday, with enough traffic, could be classic.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Hidden Wall : Tales from the Gripped (5.11a)
By: steve edwards When: May 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Still pretty dirty. Shame, because it could be cool. Maybe will clean up eventually.
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