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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Ministry of Fear (5.11d X)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Scott,
The correct answer to your question is that it would be illegal under Park regulations. Adding fixed hardware to an existing route that has never had fixed hardware can be done, but requires an application to ACE (Action Committee for Eldorado) and the Fixed Hardware Committee.
http://www.aceeldo.org/
The proposal would go out to public review and a public vote.
Knowing the local climbing community, I kinda sorta suspect it would be voted down (I'd vote no for sure), and most likel... more >>
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Location: CO : John Bachar Passes Away
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bachar ripped it up around here back in the day. He and Billy Westbay freed D1, a slap in the face to the locals. And thanks Bob, I’d forgotten about the Wisdom. Probably about the same time he tried to solo Clever Lever (he’d led it, and wondered if the drag from the rope had helped on the crux swing, so decided to try it sans rope), and famously came flying off the crux. He landed okay, decided that yeah, maybe the rope did help reduce the swing, dusted himself off, and walked away. And then t... more >>
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Location: CO : Memorial for Micah, Jonny a...
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jul 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here this link might work better:
http://www.adventurefilm.org/blogs/adventure_blog/09-06-30/M>>>>>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Gothic Nightmare : Something Wicked This Way C... (5.9 A2+)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Apr 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the early history of this route, as far as I know.
FA: Brad Jarrett, Brian Warshaw, John Slezak, 1995.
2nd: Strappo Hughes, Chip Wilson, Steve Bartlett, 1997.
3rd: Alan (Heavy Duty) Stevenson. 1997/1998. Not sure who he climbed this with (maybe Keith Reynolds??).
Really enjoyed the monstrously long and wonderfully varied first pitch. Pitch 2 seemed like standard desert rotten crack. Rest was so-so. A lot of bolts. I did not see any other nearby climbable features, but I didn't spend too... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Gothic Nightmare : Something Wicked This Way C... (5.9 A2+)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Apr 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "This old 1/4"er could probably be replaced at some point"
Yeah! I placed that bolt. Funny thing was, Chip Wilson, Strappo and I got to the shoulder, 30 feet from the summit, and the existing bolts just ran out. We had expected that the bolts would go to the summit. But no, the route ended there, 30 feet from the top. Weird. So one of us (Chip I think) rapped the whole way to to the ground to fetch the bolt kit. Apparently, the FA party just plain ran out of time and energy. They had already be... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Putterman on the Throne : Supercalifragilisticexpiali... (5.10+ C1)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Apr 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: NIce find Cammo. Really enjoyed this. An exciting approach, then a splitter crack, then a variety of climbing styles to a great summit. Interesting steep blocky section near the summit.
Ran pitches 2 and 3 together. We saved a few minutes, but I got some annoying rope drag.
The pitch 2 baby angle was gone. There were about three existing holes. We drilled the best of these deeper and placed a full-length Standard (1/2-inch) angle. It seemed to seat fine. This hole is angled downwards so it sho... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Amazon Tower - Original Rou... (5.11a A1+)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Feb 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: To add an area, go to the Moab Area page:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/105716711
then click on the blue box that says "Add Area"
But I recall I did intend for the Lockhart Basin "area" to include all of the climbs between Indian Creek and Kane Creek, reached by hiking from the Lockhart Basin Road. The area is huge, but has very few climbs, and likely to stay this way. Is it really worth dividing it into two? I think I screwed up with the area name; perhaps it coul... more >>
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Location: CO : Desert Towers - Fundraiser ...
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jan 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for all the kind comments here. I really enjoyed putting the show together, and had fun presenting it. Really good to hear that people enjoyed it.
And thanks to everyone for a really tremendous turnout last night. I have to say I was overwhelmed by the response--total raised was 835 dollars.
The laptop, a MacBook, now loaded up with his slideshow, cost $600. The balance is $235.
Jim McCarthy told me yesterday that the American Alpine Club is planning on flying Layton Kor to Golden, ... more >>
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Location: CO : Desert Towers - Fundraiser ...
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jan 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Somehow we missed this event at one of our sponsors...
By golly you're right. I've been out of town, I never noticed that either. You could have added it a couple days ago. A bit late now I guess....
Crusher
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Location: CO : Desert Towers - Fundraiser ...
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jan 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I already bought a laptop, several weeks ago, and sent it to Layton. It's loaded up with Powerpoint and a revised and improved (and somewhat condensed) version of the slideshow he did in Boulder last year.
He is psyched. He is hoping to do another slideshow sometime in February, in Flagstaff. This is closer to home for him, so the travel logistics are simpler. I hope this works out. A big thanks is due to Jim McCarthy, who was instrumental in making the Boulder/Mackey show work out, and who is ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Oct 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd have to agree with the Ben Kiessel. I've rapped Roadkill twice, once in 1989, once again in 1992. It's the best way down from both West Side Story and Brer Rabbit. Both times this was fast and efficient--straight down each time, and easy pulls. The first rap down the face is pretty spooky, as you can't see what you are aiming for. The fixed gear at the belays is--or at least was--an old-school assortment of pitons and bolts with webbing. Best to have a hammer for resetting the pitons, and fr... more >>
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Location: CO : Pinecliffe : Main Pinecliffe Crag
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Sep 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've heard that the owner's big concern is about a recent increase in trash; broken glass, etc.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Brown Wall : Brown Trousers (5.10d R)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Aug 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led this with Louis Babin, January 1985. We named this Brown Trousers. Line sounds exactly as described, and my notes call it 5.10d also. Fun climbing.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Brown Wall : Brownian Motion (5.10b)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Aug 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The name we gave this was actually Brownies In Motion, as I recall. Steve's idea I think. Brownian Motion is further down and right.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Brown Wall
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Aug 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great to see this fine hunk of rock get some attention. Just discovered my old notes about these routes. Around New Years 1984/1985, Canadian climber Louis Babin and I climbed just about every line we could winkle out of this wall. From left to right Louis Babin free soloed the large corner, which he called Albino Corner, after the pale rock. Not sure if this is Sgt Saturn, but I'm not sure where Sgt Saturn could fit otherwise. It was a pretty major corner. Went at around moderate 5.10. To the r... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Upper Great Face : The Golden Monkey (5.10b/c R)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jul 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: What Dougald said. Dreamy top pitch.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Upper Great Face : The Big Steep (5.10)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jul 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: On pitch 1, be aware that there is now another line of bolts, left again of Big Steep. Led up these, then after ten or so bolts they just stop in the middle of nowhere. A pretty runout traverse right got us back onto the real Big Steep.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : Dinosaur's Foot : Index Toe (5.8)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jul 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting selection of comments.
After leading this again last weekend, I think I see what's going on.
The route has a 5.8 crux move, but an irritating 5.9 stretch to clip the bolt that protects this move. This bolt (#7?) is placed too far right, and too high. Move this bolt down and left about a foot or so, and the route could be an enjoyable 5.8 lead, and the comments on this fine route would be more uniformly favorable.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : High H20 (5.10a/b)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jun 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty cool sequence of thin moves past the first couple bolts. It helps to be tall. After doing about a half dozen pitches at Red Rocks park last week, this felt far harder than the other 5.10s we did. Perhaps more like 5.11a.
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Location: ID : McCall Area : Slick Rock : Slippery Slope (5.10+)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jun 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: First ascent, I believe, by Jason Cronk, Bob Gentry and Todd Chavez, in 2001.
Great climb. More info, and a topo (the route line is right, but the bolt locations are not exactly correct), here:
http://www.idahoaclimbingguide.com/Slick%20Rock%20Slippery%2>>>>>
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Photo
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Jun 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really nice photo Paul. Looks a bit like the west side of Cloggy but without the big green caterpillars.
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Location: UT : The Glen Canyon National Re... : The Middle Finger Tower (5.9 A3-)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: May 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this last fall. Nice route, up a bizarre feature. Part of the second pitch may have fallen down since the first ascent. The bolt is perhaps a retreat bolt? Or a belay bolt, as the existing gear at this stance is not the best. Interesting rock; hard and very brittle, like old china.
Here's what we found: Start in dihedral on southwest corner.
1. Climb crack in a dihedral, 5.8, to a small ledge, then a couple aid moves to a ledge/shoulder. Belay in rubble field, from pins and a s... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Mar 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Eldo climbers,
A quick reminder for anyone wanting to apply for installing a new bolted route, or a new bolted rappel anchor, in Eldorado Canyon, this spring:
Please have your application finished and sent to ACE by April 1st.
Fro more details, see the Action Committee for Eldorado website:
http://www.aceeldo.org/
Thanks,
Crusher Bartlett
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Monitor and Merrimac Buttes : Monitor Butte, The Plunge (5.7 A2)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Feb 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, all good questions Ben.
I seem to recall last time I was camping near the Reef, with a plan to climb one of Ross's routes, we ran into the same problem. Pretty much all the camping spots had been closed off. I think we camped on the road itself, trying to leave just enough room for a vehicle to get by, and got up early. Pretty stupid.
Maybe the BLM were trying to forestall the possibility of the offroad crowd discovering this still quiet area and forcing new roads all over. Though so far ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Monitor and Merrimac Buttes : Monitor Butte, The Plunge (5.7 A2)
By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett When: Feb 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ben, I disagree about camping. Maybe campers will, in the short run, push into new campsites, but in the long run this will change. With a decade or more of BLM work closing off wild campsites, the River Road out of Moab is looking really good. Fifteen years ago it was a real ugly mess. And this despite far more people visiting now.
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