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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Unbroken Chain (5.11c X)
By: Steve Annecone When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just TR'd this yesterday and it's waaay harder than before the flake broke.... I'd guess it's now 12a or possibly harder. The formerly sizable undercling is now a much harder to reach, one or two finger "undercling" on the far left side of where the flake broke. It's probably that much harder to lead safely now too. But still a fun and powerful TR for sure!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Wild Turkey (5.12a)
By: Steve Annecone When: May 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an outstanding line with some of the best exposure and position in Eldo! Very pumpy and sustained throughout the first half, with a powerful and (to me) desperate crux reach to a jug near the 5th bolt. Pulling over the lip onto the slab felt really hard (11+), and the climbing from there felt like sustained 5.11 slab to the anchor. Very nice route!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Parting Shot (5.11)
By: Steve Annecone When: May 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route, with loads of variety, interesting cruxes, and fun run outs on easier terrain. It's also a very long pitch (160-170'?) and requires liberal use of slings to avoid drag at the end. Agree with the above, nothing larger than 1" pro necessary. One of my favorite routes in Eldo in this grade.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : False Prophet (5.11d)
By: Steve Annecone When: Feb 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome route with some definite spice at the 10+ or 11- range getting up to the roof. The crux is getting established over this roof, and involves powerful reachy moves. The pump factor stays high after the crux with lots of burly lieback moves. Good send Adam, especially with the Unbroken Chain start! The photo of Bob Horan shows him coming in from 1st pitch of Practice Climb 101, which would probably entail a fair bit of rope drag as you turn the roof, and yet it might protect the runout z... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Captain Beyond (5.10c)
By: Steve Annecone When: Jan 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My vote for best 5.10 crack route in the Boulder area! Be careful not to yard on that loose flake on pitch 2.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Kloof Alcove : Sequential (5.12a)
By: Steve Annecone When: Nov 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with the above posters, this is an awesome route! It's way overhung from beginning to end with only two rests, and even if you can make all the moves it's so sustained that it's really an endurance crux. Although it was my first 12 send in Eldo (after plenty of top roping), I'm not sure I would agree with Rob that it's a "good first 5.12 for everyone".... there's definitely a good chance for hitting the big ledge a third of the way up if you blow the squirly sequence above it, although ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Family Man (5.12a)
By: Steve Annecone When: Jul 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice route Chris, a good addition to the selection of climbs there! However, I was surprised to find a long (20+ foot?) runout at the end and I'm wondering if I missed a bolt up there? Now all we need is a warm up route easier than 11d for this area!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Threshold Of A Dream (5.11d)
By: Steve Annecone When: May 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did a start directly below the arete, rather than coming in from Days of Future Passed. Is this a new variation? The first bolt however was missing a hanger, but a nut cable can be used on the stud and yellow and red Aliens can back this up also until you reach over the roof and clip the 2nd bolt. Pretty good climbing overall and the direct start adds some more 5.11 down low.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : Crazy Stairs (5.10+)
By: Steve Annecone When: Mar 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route Kent and Mike! The crux was pretty devious and tricky, and now has a fixed nut due to me falling on it at the crux. Felt hard at the grade. Definitely worth doing if you are in the neighborhood!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Steve Annecone When: Aug 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with most of the above, and think this is one of the best 5.11 pitches in Eldo! It took me years to get up the psych to lead it with that first 30 feet of spice... felt like 10a/b vs, definitely a scary prospect to fall there. However, I was able to stretch way right and get a semi-decent nut placement before committing to the hardest move there. I also used a screamer on the gold Camalot behind the flake (which may or may not make a difference). As good as the original finish is, Aeroh... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Bit by Bit (5.11c/d)
By: Steve Annecone When: Apr 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this last weekend and thought it was excellent! Great exposure, intricate slab climbing in spots, and an exciting finish. The crux may be clipping the 4th bolt from an insecure stance on the arete. Felt like 5.11d to go straight up the arete, slightly right of the bolts, which is the way I went and seems to be the most compelling line. Watch out for the loose blocks up high right of the last bolt, just before the anchor.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Steve Annecone When: Nov 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree completely with Chris Beh's comment above, Aliens are definitely going to hold better than TCUs at the crux. Also, I've been able to get very good small Aliens (2) a few feet above the start of the lieback crux, although it required stemming a bit left of the crack and not going straight into the lieback initially.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Divine Wind (5.11b)
By: Steve Annecone When: Nov 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ivan is right about the nuts protecting the crux, however.... a few years ago I belayed a friend leading who fell at the crux resulting in snapping the cable of the first nut, yanking out the second, then snapping the cable of the 3rd nut! (it's possible that both of the nuts that snapped had worn or kinked cables) The 4th piece, a small blue TCU held the whipper. So be careful of what you place there.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucky Strikes (5.12b)
By: Steve Annecone When: May 28, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent moves and really fun and sustained... Don't blow the second clip though or it would be quite possible to hit the ledge below.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Wounded Knee (5.11b)
By: Steve Annecone When: Mar 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Powerful and exposed, this route seems worth at least two stars! The crux roof pitch is short, but the exposure is wild, and the sustained nature of the climbing make it challenging for the grade. The 1st pitch is harder than it looks too and high quality, but Bearcat is even better.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Erki Nool (WGA) (5.11d)
By: Steve Annecone When: Dec 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was an excellent route and would rate as a 3 star in most places. Considering the neighbors, 2 stars. It's continuously overhung from the start to end, and has an interesting crux just past the 3rd bolt that felt 11c or 11d. Even if no move is harder than 11c, this is so sustained that an 11d rating seems right. There's still a bit of grit but it's going away fast! What does the "WGA" stand for?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Salsa Verde (5.11c)
By: Steve Annecone When: Oct 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route was excellent! Very clean and sharp edges, somewhat perplexing moves at the crux which was between the 3rd and 4th bolts, and really continuous 5.11 climbing for virtually every move between 3rd and 5th bolts! Clipping the 4th bolt is not easy due to the very tenuous stance. Quite sustained at the grade, I thought this was similar in difficulty to Mellow Yellow or Fox Trot or False Prophet in Eldo... might even seem stiff at 11d? If you make the monster hike to do D & T a... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Cool Hand Luke (5.11a)
By: Steve Annecone When: Aug 9, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree this isn't as hard as Maxi Lash, but that's a known sandbag, and offwidth to thin crack comparisons are not so useful. I thought it was harder than Boardwalk (11b), 2nd pitch of Friday the 13th (11a), and Mud in Your Eye (11b), and hence the proposed rating... but ratings will always be somewhat subjective.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Black Dagger (5.11a)
By: Steve Annecone When: Jul 28, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: An outstanding route and a really compelling line when viewed up close or at a distance.... what a line this is! I did this a few years ago and the weather progressed from light rain to graupel to strong snow and wind. By then we were too high to consider retreat and kept heading upward, and finally topped out near 5 pm, but not before being thoroughly worked.
I'll never forget traversing left at the top along Table Ledge, with frozen hands, wet and cold holds, snow whipping horizontally an... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : The Devil (5.11d)
By: Steve Annecone When: Jul 16, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps the nicest route we climbed today! Felt like 5.11b/c, not as hard as Chairman of the Board.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Icarus (5.6 R)
By: Steve Annecone When: Jul 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Leo above, this is probably the best 5.6 climb in the Boulder area. It is way exposed, involves lots of interesting and varied climbing, a little bit of spice for the intermediate leader, and the position and views are excellent!
For speed, you can do the route in two pitches with a 60-meter rope, going from the starting ledge to the end of the runout traverse discussed above, then to the summit on the second pitch.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: Steve Annecone When: Jul 1, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: IMHO, the best route in Eldo! Spectacular position and exposure, and plenty of variety make this one wild ride. Although there is plenty of spice throughout, the harder portions are all well protected and I think the "s" would pertain to only 5.9 or perhaps up to 10b sections. If you can climb 11b or c, I don't think the serious rating would be a problem. Also, unless you are way honed, a good solid warm up is highly recommended since the first pitch may present a flash pump challenge other... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : Deer Ridge Buttress : Nun's Buttress (5.8)
By: Steve Annecone When: Jun 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree strongly with Leo's comment above, that 5.9+ or 10- variation start is excellent! It pros reasonably well although is a bit spicy as you leave the shallow corner and head up left on an exposed face to the horizontal. The double cracks above this are excellent and reminded me of Bishop's Terrace in Yosemite.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : Deer Ridge Buttress
By: Steve Annecone When: Jun 29, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice rock and beautiful area with excellent views, stays nice and shady for much of the day. I haven't read Rossiter's approach description from the north, but found a very mellow approach based on the Gillett description. We parked at the Aspen Glen campground, headed down a faint trail east from the SE end of the campground, then went south as soon as you get past the ridge... from there, just head straight up the hill to the bottom of the north face. It took 1 hour at a very moderate pace a... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : West Overhang (5.11a)
By: Steve Annecone When: Jun 8, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: What an amazing line, this is probably the most exposed climb I've done anywhere! However, don't go up there and expect 11a, I think this is harder than any 11a or 11b in Boulder. I'd recommend bringing a #3 and #4 Camalot if you want gear in the first 25-30 feet, and I agree with Joe that you should not clip that bolt out left, it will give you drag and it's not as good as a cam anyways. And as Joe says, use as many long slings as possible to avoid desperate clips at the final cr... more >>
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