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Member Since: Apr 4, 2008
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 8,178
Total Points: 46
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Steve123 been climbing?


All 33 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 16 | Posts 11 | Stars 1 | Ratings

Contributed Comments


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Shovel Point : Gold Plated (5.10b)
By: Steve123 When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: This route and the area surrounding it are sometimes closed in the spring due to falcon nesting.

Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Peyote Power (5.9)
By: Steve123 When: May 7, 2015

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Comments: We climbed this route in early May 2015 using the described alternate
belays, but only climbed through pitch 3 due to time constraints. The day was hot, but this route was in the shade.

A few notes:
The ledge/scoop belay station for pitch 1B seemed to be closer to 30 feet above the pitch 1 chains rather than the 15 feet described. There was a ledge at 15 feet, but I would not describe it as a scoop, and being an extra 15 feet lower would have caused problems on pitch 2.

After climbing from t... more >>

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Lady Luck (5.7)
By: Steve123 When: May 5, 2015

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Comments: We hiked to the start of Rising Moons then traversed over. We hung out for a while at the start of Big Sky, trying to match up the pictures and descriptions to what we saw. Eventually we figured out that we were at the wrong place and had to traverse just a little bit further.

After climbing pitch 3, we stepped down from our belay location to the ledge at the base of the pitch 4 corner.

I did not find anything that looked like a belay at the right distance as I was climbing pitch 5. (Appare... more >>

Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Front Corridor : Man's Best Friend (5.7)
By: Steve123 When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Climbed this route in early May 2015. A couple of the hangers could rotate, but the bolts all seemed solid.

Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Honeycomb Chimney (5.9)
By: Steve123 When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: Approach: The start of the route is above a hundred-foot headwall of white rock that is not shown very well in the Handren guide photo. Below this headwall, a gully runs down to a low red wall just above the main wash.
To get to the start of the route, go up the canyon, past the low red wall, then head up the hill to climbers right of the gully.
(Hike up the canyon until you have passed the route before you head up the hill)
This will take you the base of the main cliff to the right of the wh... more >>

Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Steve123 When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: At the top of pitch 4 there are three sets of bolted anchors, a set immediately at the top of the pitch, and also a lower and upper set about 20 feet to the right. If you rappel from the upper set of anchors to the right, a single 70-meter rope will reach the Chasing Shadows anchors, but just barely. Knot the ends of the rope. Note, the Chasing Shadows anchors are just around a corner, and cannot be seen from Dark Shadows. From here you can rappel to the top of pitch 2, then 1, then the grou... more >>

Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9)
By: Steve123 When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Two reasonably fit climbers, who were familiar with the hike to Juniper Canyon from the Pine Creek parking area (but only as far as Geronimo/Myster Z), completed the approach in 2 hours 20 minutes.

The crux of the route is a short section of finger crack on pitch 2. If you do not feel like climbing that section, the face to the right of it goes at maybe 5.8 or so. The rest of the climb is much easier.

The entire climb all the way to the summit is easily protectable with just a double set of ... more >>

Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Crooked Crack (5.6)
By: Steve123 When: May 11, 2014

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Comments: Note on the descent: As of May 2014, the "rappel anchor at the top of the wall" that is listed in the Handren guide does not exist. There is also not a slung tree near the top of the pillar to the the right of the climb. To descend, walk over to the Tonto tree and rappel from there. A single 70 meter rope works for the rappel.

Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Bowling Alley- aka Durrance... (5.5 PG13)
By: Steve123 When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: Jason, it is common to clip a long sling to one of the anchor bolts and then continue your lead, traversing left. Go past the trees to a nice ledge area at the base of the Leaning Column pitch, where you can build a gear anchor. The Guidebook by Orenczak and Lynn says to build your anchor at the tree, but the ledge about 10 feet farther is better.

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Lotta Balls (5.8)
By: Steve123 When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: Sean, it is possible that the third rap station bolts have been pulled again, but you also could have just missed them. Even though I knew generally where they should be, I completely missed them on my way down, went past the tree, saw that my rope would not make it all the way down, scrambled back up, and then found the bolts on a face to the left of the tree.

Edited May 11 2014:
I was just on this descent again last week. The first and second rap stations are still slings around trees. The... more >>

Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Solar Slab (5.6)
By: Steve123 When: Apr 4, 2013

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Comments: I climbed and rappelled this route in late March 2013. The Handren guide shows (pg 133, 134) that the rappel line has an intermediate rappel station between the pitch 4 anchors and the pitch 1 anchors. When I got there, I found that this station was a pair of rusty old bolts with no hangers. I had to swing left to the pitch 2 anchors to continue my descent.

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Lotta Balls (5.8)
By: Steve123 When: Mar 31, 2013

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Comments: Edited Monday April 01 2013, in an attempt to remove inaccuracies:

In March 2013, the descent shared by this and other nearby routes was involved in a bolting disagreement. Bolted rappel anchors have been added, removed, and replaced. As of the end of March, the second rappel anchor is the tree again, while the third rappel anchor is bolted.

If you climb any of the routes that use this descent, be aware that the status of the rappel anchors might be in flux. It would be a good idea to bri... more >>

Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Romper Room : Kindergarten Cop (5.7+)
By: Steve123 When: Apr 1, 2012

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Comments: The anchors are about 50 feet below the small roof and are on the right side of the face, much lower and closer to the right-hand crack than you would expect. It is easy to miss them if you are climbing on the good holds in the center of the face at that point, as the anchors are around a small corner.

Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : East Face : Diet Delight (5.8)
By: Steve123 When: Apr 1, 2012

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Comments: Drive In: Our standard rental car did not have the clearance to make it all the way down the gravel road to the nearest parking area, so we had to park farther away and hike in. I would recommend using a Higher-clearance vehicle if you can. The parking areas along the gravel road were littered with broken automotive glass and spent shotgun shells.
Approach: The trail up the slope that we found did not match the trails shown on p19 or p24 of the Handren guide, but followed the ridge between two... more >>

Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.7)
By: Steve123 When: Apr 14, 2008

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Comments: In March 2008, the pitch 2 anchor bolts were still present. This is a semi-hanging belay and good rope management (e.g. lap coiling) here is important, as the crack below this station eats ropes. I spent a good amount of time freeing up the stuck rope of the party above me. There were cut-off pieces of other ropes stuck in the same spot.

In the tunnel, there are a few good tricam placements in pockets in the back wall.

Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Geronimo (5.6)
By: Steve123 When: Apr 4, 2008

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Comments: This is a fun route but both rappel lines are unpleasant.

From the pitch 2 ledge you can rappel back down the route in 2 double-rope rappels, but be prepared to re-lead the route to free up your stuck ropes as both rappels are rope-eaters. (I watched two parties do this and their ropes got stuck on each rappel.) The standard descent line from the chains on the pitch 2 ledge can be done as two double-rope rappels or four single-rope rappels. This gully/crack system is also a rope-eater. Our... more >>

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